Monitor 10 questions

2»

Comments

  • DaveHo
    DaveHo Posts: 3,471
    That stuffing isn't original. Also appears to be too much as there shouldn't be any behind the passive.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,711
    It looks like the original type, but it definitely should not be behind the passive radiator.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • I’m pretty sure a previous owner did a partial refurbish/upgrade.
    DaveHo wrote: »
    That stuffing isn't original. Also appears to be too much as there shouldn't be any behind the passive.

    What should I do to correct this? Should I try to roll it up behind the woofers? Or, cut it back?
    F1nut wrote: »
    It looks like the original type, but it definitely should not be behind the passive radiator.

    Do either of you know of any pictures showing how it should look?
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,481
    edited October 2019
    Do not cut it. Try to roll it up and place up behind the midwoofers and tweeter. Make sure that it is not going to just unroll back down.
    There shouldn't be any behind the passive radiator.
  • delkal
    delkal Posts: 764
    edited October 2019
    What happens if the packing is behind the passive? What does it do to the sound?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,711
    It will diminish the bass response.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    There should be a roll of batting at the top behind the tweeter. There should also be another piece shaped like a pair of pants. Roll up each "leg" so it fits behind each woofer opening. Then tack the flap to the sides and center brace so it looks like this:
    mudlydkhbxs2.jpg
    5ia88fw8wdiu.jpg
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • Thanks David. A picture tells a thousand words! I haven’t started the work on the cabinets yet because I’ve been pretty busy at work. I should be starting that soon though.
    There should be a roll of batting at the top behind the tweeter. There should also be another piece shaped like a pair of pants. Roll up each "leg" so it fits behind each woofer opening. Then tack the flap to the sides and center brace so it looks like this:
    mudlydkhbxs2.jpg
    5ia88fw8wdiu.jpg

  • Well, the last few months have been pretty busy and I haven’t been too motivated since still I’m waiting for the crossovers to come back (hopefully soon, 🤞). Anyway, I’m wondering if my 6503 drivers need the magnets re-glued. These are date stamped April of 2002. The question is, had Polk figured out the adhesive problem before these were manufactured? I should have more time with the holidays approaching and want to have these ready to put back together when the crossovers get here. Anyone have experience or advice for this generation of 6503 drivers?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,711
    Glue them.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk