Onkyo TX-RZ1100
saturn1
Posts: 30
in Electronics
Hi,
I am wondering if I could get your thoughts. Will the Onkyo TX-RZ1100 be enough to power LSiM setup (2x 707, 2 x 703, 1 x 706) without a separate AMP? That receiver delivers a nominal power of 140 Watts per channel and each channel is rated at 4 Ohms. If I biamp the two 707s and the 706 and hook up each of the 703s to a single channel, would that work?
I am wondering if I could get your thoughts. Will the Onkyo TX-RZ1100 be enough to power LSiM setup (2x 707, 2 x 703, 1 x 706) without a separate AMP? That receiver delivers a nominal power of 140 Watts per channel and each channel is rated at 4 Ohms. If I biamp the two 707s and the 706 and hook up each of the 703s to a single channel, would that work?
Comments
Ok, not to rain on your parade, but, it is NOT rated at 140 x 5. Read the specs a little closer. You CANNOT bi-amp with a receiver, it doesn't work that way. Will it power your LSiMs? Yes, BUT, not to their potential.
What he ^^ said
Welcome to the rabbit ho...........................I mean FORUM btw!!
That short answer as already stated, no.
That's a fine looking AVR though, and rated at 140w into 8ohms with (2) channels driven. The more channels you add, the less power each channel gets.
I let my old Integra power two channels and had external amps to do the rest of the channels. Yours has a fine bank of pre-outs so you're set to add amps as you see fit.
HT
Source: Panasonic UB9000 - Display: LG OLED 65 8B
Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2
2CH
Emotiva: ERC 3 connected via XLR's
Speakers
PolkAudio Mains: LSiM707, C-706, SS: 702F/X, RS: RTiA9
EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-IMlrfJ6gc28/learn/why-biamp-your-speakers.html
@F1nut @Hermitism
My fingers are tired...
Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Definitive Technology SM350; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology Procinema 800; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
Master Bedroom
Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45; ACI Titan Subwoofer; Squeezebox Touch
3.1 - Polk: LSiM703, LSiM706c, PSW125 | PS Audio Quintet | VooDoo-Hubbell IG 8300 | Acoustic Panels, Acoustimac Bass Traps x3
6.1 - Pioneer Elite SC-05 | Pio BDP-51FD | Polk: RTi8, CSi5, F/Xi3, CSi3 | HSU Research VTF-2 MK4 | PS Audio: Quintet, Power Port Classic | DCF124BW x3 SC | Pangea: AC-9SE x2, 14SE, 14 PC | AQ Chocolate x2 HDMI | M850SW | Acoustic Panels, GIK Soffit Traps x4
The folks in my ghetto are a little sensitive to sound. I am mainly going for the immersive effect.
I am already strained from the cost of the speakers and the receiver. I’ll set it up and add an amp if my tone death ears are less than satisfied.
140 W/Ch (8 Ohms, 1kHz, 0.08% THD, 2 Channels Driven, FTC) 200 W/Ch (6 Ohms, 1 kHz, 0.9% THD, 1 Channel Driven, FTC)
Notice it is NOT rated 20Hz to 20,000kHz full bandwidth. It's only at 1kHz does it reach the rated output AND once again ONLY 2 channels and 200 watts AT 1 channel at 6 ohms. Rating them at 1kHz is a VERY easy load not much bass and not much high end. What you do not know is how long it was able to hold that rated output at that 1 kHz frequency. It may off just barely hit it and BOOM test over. Could it ouput that power at full bandwidth I highly doubt it.
Long story short it is more than likely FAR FAR less with multiple channels in play. If it has 80WPC x 5 consider yourself very lucky.
Worthless and inaccurate article.
Report back and let us know how it sounds.
nope don't be just be easy on the volume knob and back off if you start hearing compressed or distorted sound.
You are all very knowledgeable. Thanks again.
Something like this: https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/marsr5012/marantz-sr5012-7.2-ch-x-100-watts-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.html
And this: http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/5000.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwvo_qBRDQARIsAE-bsH9v0DmI5dZv2cClUlQF3ow_3NsVLL8IaiYnxeyHUYHjt24idLY-1GcaAnccEALw_wcB
Would be much better than just the onkyo...
Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Definitive Technology SM350; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology Procinema 800; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
Master Bedroom
Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45; ACI Titan Subwoofer; Squeezebox Touch
Nope, that's not it at all. Bi-amping requires two separate amplifiers, they could be of any power rating and the use of active crossovers. You cannot bi-amp with an AVR of any power rating because all the channels share a single power supply. You cannot rob Peter to pay Paul.
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
I have the SR5010, very nice AVR on both music and movies. The Outlaw 5000 is a good amp and for the price is hard to beat.
I have the Denon 4400 in my main HT. good AVR with lots of whistles and bells. THe Marantz is better at MP3/bluetooth stuff. Other than that I find the SQ about equal.
Family Room:
Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
Main: Polk LsiM 705
Center: Polk LSiM 704C
Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
Surrounds: Polk S15
Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room;
Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
Main: Polk Signature S20
Center: Polk Signature S35
Rear: Polk R15
Sub: HSU STF-2
Working Warehouse;
Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
Old sony 12" Sub
Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
I used to have the sr5007 in the bedroom, denon avr x4200w in the main rig. I think that the marantz is a bit warmer and the denon has a bit more punch. Of course, that’s the entry level marantz and a higher end denon, but I definitely prefer the denon for HT, but would be really satisfied with either.
I think that combo will rock!
Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Definitive Technology SM350; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology Procinema 800; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
Master Bedroom
Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45; ACI Titan Subwoofer; Squeezebox Touch
No. Most receivers are power pre outs not both. And it won’t sound better anyway, if anything, worse. You won’t be able to match the levels and the calibration software will be all wonky.
That amp will sound great, leave it alone.
Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Definitive Technology SM350; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology Procinema 800; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
Master Bedroom
Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45; ACI Titan Subwoofer; Squeezebox Touch
You're just asking for abuse, you know. *insert facepalm*
Did you get your Marantz yet? There's this...
https://www.onkyousa.com/product/web-only/tx-rz3100-2/?utm_source=Onkyo+Subscribers&utm_campaign=fe0e33da29-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2019_08_06_01_36&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_5ae1ad0e3c-fe0e33da29-229415553
50% off
HT
Source: Panasonic UB9000 - Display: LG OLED 65 8B
Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2
2CH
Emotiva: ERC 3 connected via XLR's
Speakers
PolkAudio Mains: LSiM707, C-706, SS: 702F/X, RS: RTiA9
EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is
I live in the Los Angeles area. I can't believe how limited the Brick and Mortar selections are. How are you supposed to buy something without listening to it? About 9 years ago, I purchased a Jamo 426 5.0 system with an Onkyo AVR and a 10" Energy sub. It made a huge difference in my HT experience.
I just wanted nice speakers for music and didn't realize how much it would take to drive them. If the Onkyo/Outlaw combo would be better than the Marantz/Outlaw combo, I would be willing to get it. I keep these things for a minimum of 10 years, but I doubt that my ears can pick up the difference.
That's 120 watts, not amps.
NO!
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
Bi-amp and bi-wire are mostly marketing hype. Unless you getting a ton of monoblock amps and a couple 20Amp lines run to your HT just leave it strait wire.
Speaking of wire you will need some quality wires. do a search on this forum for wires to use. I would suck if you get everything and use Monoprice stuff then wonder why it doesn't sound that good.
I too am in SoCal, other than Fry's there is really no place to get a listen before you buy. We can though save on HSU shipping cost by going directly there.
Family Room:
Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
Main: Polk LsiM 705
Center: Polk LSiM 704C
Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
Surrounds: Polk S15
Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room;
Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
Main: Polk Signature S20
Center: Polk Signature S35
Rear: Polk R15
Sub: HSU STF-2
Working Warehouse;
Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
Old sony 12" Sub
Mini tower PC with 400GB of music