RT1000P sub amp circuit board question DESPERATE!

in Electronics
For my old RT1000P, both subs are blown. I can replace a leaking capacitor, but both have one particular resistor (R33) that is burnt up so bad I cannot make out the color bands, so I don't know the value to replace them with. Anyone have the board available and can tell me the color bands on R33 (gold band last) I would be eternally grateful. And I may actually be able to get my subs back online. Thanks!!! Keith
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It looks to be a 220 Ohm. or whatever they mean by: 220/0.SW
HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
So with just the resistor replacement, this speaker powers up ok, with no signs of overheating, etc. but so far no bass output at all, hi-level with jumpers on, or off line-level, auto and OFF, varying the speaker's volume pot, etc...
I'm a bit confused by the resistor schematic value of 220. The old one is burnt pretty bad, but the first band is pretty clearly brown, not red. I guess possibly replaced improperly by a previous owner, but I don't think so... it looked pristine on the board. Maybe the schematic is in error?
After letting the speaker run a while (board is powering up) I don't see any signs of overheating so far. Guess my next step would be to replace the two 4700 caps on this board, or maybe the power transistor... But not sure at this point if its really worth hit and miss of every suspicious component on the board. Any thoughts or suggestions how to proceed?
The resistor looks to be a basic 220 Ohm .5W carbon film resistor
Remember that part of the circuit is the hi-level/speaker level input and the resistor is in parallel with the output from your amp/receiver and tied to ground. . So the resistor does see some heat. I would think a metal film or metal oxide type would be used here but maybe not. As far as troubleshooting, it could be a number of things so its hard to say. Much depends on your skill level and how far you want to dive in.
HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
It’s got onboard EQ so you can play with it however you want.
Lots of folks have done some similar for MF-15 subs that have bad plate amps (common issue and company went under)
Hi womo:)
One year ago I had a similar problem, I wanted to repair everything myself... It was a mistake, seriously, I messed it up. Of course, I'm not an expert. My friend said that it is better to print a new board according to this scheme. Hell, he was right... I spent a lot of time, nerves, and money, but it was all for nothing. After I found one service, I will share it. I didn't want to spend a lot of money, because I also repaired the car but It was not expensive, and these guys are professionals , they know all the pcb basics I think that it is better if you do everything from scratch, but you can also find out what will be more profitable, repair or print a new board.
I hope it was helpful.