Insulating garage door
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EndersShadow
Posts: 17,528
This may not be the best place to ask, but I need to insulate my garage door to keep the dogs warm (this year we gotta put em in the garage all winter).
This isn't audio related at all, but I figured a few folks may have done this so why not ask.
Is it best to purchase a kit, or is it better to buy all the stuff yourself? Any kit you recommend over another, etc.....
This isn't audio related at all, but I figured a few folks may have done this so why not ask.
Is it best to purchase a kit, or is it better to buy all the stuff yourself? Any kit you recommend over another, etc.....
"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
Comments
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I used foam sheets from the big box stores (thickness varies) which comes in 4' x 8' sheets. Very easy to work with, cut to size, IMO much better and cheaper than the "kits".Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
Pic from the old house:
Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
Any particular R value I should be looking for?"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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Well sweet cheeks how deep is your door? You can only put in there the max depth of your door....
If you want it to work..... you do still need it to go up and down correct?
Looks like 1.5" is what Dave used.
One other thing the extra weight you are now putting in the door that came "uninsulated" will put more stress on the springs. Insulated doors usually come with heavier springs. That being said if a torsion spring breaks i suggest going up in spring weight a little. -
Double check your seal around the perimeter of the door as well as between the panels- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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Dogg is correct. R value is a function of thickness, IIRC, so you are limited as to how well insulated you can make a door. The foam sheets are all very similar in R value, so I chose the thickest one that would fit.Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
Well sweet cheeks how deep is your door? You can only put in there the max depth of your door....
If you want it to work..... you do still need it to go up and down correct?
1.75" deep (little more but I suck at measurements).Double check your seal around the perimeter of the door as well as between the panels
Yeah I already know I need to do some work there as well. Any suggestion for sealing those?
"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
EndersShadow wrote: »Well sweet cheeks how deep is your door? You can only put in there the max depth of your door....
If you want it to work..... you do still need it to go up and down correct?
1.75" deep (little more but I suck at measurements).Double check your seal around the perimeter of the door as well as between the panels
Yeah I already know I need to do some work there as well. Any suggestion for sealing those?
Yes go buy new seals to go around it. Cut to fit and push in better up against the door -
So something like this for filling in the door (2 layers).
What for sealing the door? The seal's I would need would be for the sides, the bottom is fine."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
Cheaper to just eat the dogs...
Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!! -
Dan just get the 1.5" dow/corning styrofoam friction fit it.
They sell the stuff that goes around the door just go tell them what you need and they will show you 8 or 10 sticks cut to fit.
Menards may be cheaper if you have one local. -
Dan just get the 1.5" dow/corning styrofoam friction fit it.
They sell the stuff that goes around the door just go tell them what you need and they will show you 8 or 10 sticks cut to fit.
Menards may be cheaper if you have one local.
So this is what your talking about for the door right?"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
Are you kidding? This is the best place to ask off-the-wall questions! It's hard not to find someone here who hasn't been there/done that...EndersShadow wrote: »This isn't audio related at all, but I figured a few folks may have done this so why not ask.
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I just hate when builders use non-insulated garage doors in moderate and cold climates. Another peeve is when they install 80% eff. HVAC in $500K and up new homes. But in the same house put on $30.00 cabinet/drawer pulls (just one example). Just venting. I agree, use rigid styro., I also think for an average 16' X 9' door the added weight of the insulation would not require stronger springs, these styro. boards are very light. Carry on.
One 4' X 8' sheet 1.5" thick weights only 5.9 lbs. Four sheets 23.6 lbs., less 15% for gaps, hinges = 20.06 lbs. Unless you use your door 20 times a day, I think your existing springs will be fine.
Factory made insulated doors will have more weight as they will have metal covering the insulation on the inside of the door(s). They would require stronger spring(s).
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Well this home was built in the 80 or 90s so I don’t think ANYONE was doing that then lol...."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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EndersShadow wrote: »Dan just get the 1.5" dow/corning styrofoam friction fit it.
They sell the stuff that goes around the door just go tell them what you need and they will show you 8 or 10 sticks cut to fit.
Menards may be cheaper if you have one local.
So this is what your talking about for the door right?
Yes that would basically the same as verb's. Dow is blue and Owens - corning is pink. -
aprazer402 wrote: »I just hate when builders use non-insulated garage doors in moderate and cold climates. Another peeve is when they install 80% eff. HVAC in $500K and up new homes. But in the same house put on $30.00 cabinet/drawer pulls (just one example). Just venting. I agree, use rigid styro., I also think for an average 16' X 9' door the added weight of the insulation would not require stronger springs, these styro. boards are very light. Carry on.
One 4' X 8' sheet 1.5" thick weights only 5.9 lbs. Four sheets 23.6 lbs., less 15% for gaps, hinges = 20.06 lbs. Unless you use your door 20 times a day, I think your existing springs will be fine.
Factory made insulated doors will have more weight as they will have metal covering the insulation on the inside of the door(s). They would require stronger spring(s).
Everything is cost profit ratio. While not disagreeing with you they sometimes make all sorts of shortcuts. Contractor grade is not a better grade. My pet peeve is when they use junk outlets and switches that for .30 more you get a much better outlet or switch for the most part but when you buy 100's at time it adds up so they buy out of the big dump bin.
My point with springs is that they do break and replacing with a little heavier spring would help with the added stress on both the door and opener not having to work as hard. Yes you are correct as to how the insulated doors come. These are things i learned installing garage doors and working at a building material store for many years a lifetime ago it seems.
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This is a good discussion. I need to do this to my double wood garage door and have been looking for ideas. The springs were replaced on my wooden door by me several years ago. What a scary dangerous job. I upgraded the springs beyond standard.
What do you use to secure the panels to the door?"Sometimes you have to look to the past to understand where you are going in the future"
Harry / Marietta GA -
And what is the red thing, verb? I know it is not a dog. Maybe a lawnmower?"Sometimes you have to look to the past to understand where you are going in the future"
Harry / Marietta GA -
BlueBirdMusic wrote: »And what is the red thing, verb? I know it is not a dog. Maybe a lawnmower?
Hehe. My Snowblower! Ariens big dog. Even has heated grips!Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
BlueBirdMusic wrote: »This is a good discussion. I need to do this to my double wood garage door and have been looking for ideas. The springs were replaced on my wooden door by me several years ago. What a scary dangerous job. I upgraded the springs beyond standard.
What do you use to secure the panels to the door?
In my door, each panel has a flange around the perimeter that holds the foam in place. No adhesive necessary.Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
Ivan, how hard is it to replace the springs myself (remember its me), and would that be all I need to do, or would I need to make adjustments to the garage door motor or anything of that nature?"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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Nice job. Every winter for the past 15 years I said I was going to do that. Couple of questions:Pic from the old house:
1. Did the panels stay on themselves without adhesive or tape of some type?
2. How did you get the panel behind the braces in the middle....did they just slide through?
3. Can you do my door? Ill buy you a six pack of your choice and throw in some old Monster speaker cable!😉
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EndersShadow wrote: »Ivan, how hard is it to replace the springs myself (remember its me), and would that be all I need to do, or would I need to make adjustments to the garage door motor or anything of that nature?
Don't do it, Dan! I've seen you around tools!
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Father in-law adjusted a garage door once, almost cut off his thumb. It was NASTY!!
2 nephews tried to adjust my Daughters garage door that was out of adjustment.
They tried, never got it quite right although I'm sure it can be done.
As were attempting to fix things, I start having flashbacks of the thumb incident.
I just called a garage company, fixed it right up.... -
^^ THIS^^.
The tension on the springs is nothing to eff around with if you don't know what your're doing... -
EndersShadow wrote: »Ivan, how hard is it to replace the springs myself (remember its me), and would that be all I need to do, or would I need to make adjustments to the garage door motor or anything of that nature?
can't disagree with the above statements. They both need to be adjusted correctly or you can foul it up....
Please dear god Dan DO NOT TRY TO DO IT YOURSELF!!!
The call to a door company to do it is far cheaper than the hospital bills -
DO IT, DO IT, DO IT...
Why adhesive? You can buy from 2-1/2" screws with buttons or washer that will hold the insulation just fine.Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!! -
Thanks guys. Don’t worry I will let the professionals handle it. Don’t need any more problems than I already got lol.."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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ken brydson wrote: »^^ THIS^^.
The tension on the springs is nothing to eff around with if you don't know what your're doing...
I agree. After installed you have to turn it a number of times to get the correct torque. I’ve seen the torque rod tool fly off because it wasn’t secured properly. Thank goodness the technician (whom I hired to do the job) wasn’t hurt.Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
