Speaker jumper cables
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Doing this I have noticed a slight improvement in souls from kids and highs And highs.
A tad too high me thinks.
If that was only the case. -
@ Firsttimer - I got that you have:
a. replaced the jumper plates w/the AQ jw
b. not upgraded the wire between your amp/AVR and speakers/woofer BPs.
BUT...Do you have any spare/leftover wire? Try itfirsttimer wrote: »Yes I have left over wire... ...[I’ll*] try it maybe and see what happens.
If you did try leftover wire, was the SQ, better, different, or no change?
...after two attempts you still haven’t answered my question.
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
@gp4jesus just read the entire thread and as I understand it, @firsttimer went directly from the plates to the AQ jumpers. Now since you've asked technically 3 times, are you asking for his opinion, or just to see if you're "right" by just using leftovers and saving the $? If the latter, and you haven't tried higher grade dedicated jumpers yourself, maybe you should do it and form your own opinion and allow him to experiment within his comfort zone. Aslo consider this: your equipment may be vastly different than his, and therefore the results may very just as wildly, so the experiment's results may be moot.
One last point, a bold or italicized is used for stress it's importance. In the realm of the interwebs, going bold (or ALL CAPS) is often used to connotate loudness, so bolding an entire sentence is akin to yelling it... It can be off putting to some.
My $0.02 -
Thought I answered it every time. But here goes again. As fest said NO I did not use speaker wire. Went right to the AQ JUMPERS. Is that CLEAR ENOUPH. Have stated my opinion on doing this
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I believe he means: " Doing this I have noticed a slight improvement in sounds from mids and highs".
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KennethSwauger wrote: »I believe he means: " Doing this I have noticed a slight improvement in sounds from mids and highs".
Correct -
Just an FYI for the audio-anal, I prefer to bring my main wire in on the top posts, and jumper down to the woofer(s).Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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Just an FYI for the audio-anal, I prefer to bring my main wire in on the top posts, and jumper down to the woofer(s).
Might try that what is the benefit? -
might be helpful.
http://www.nordost.com/downloads/NorseJumperinstructions.pdfAmplifiers: Norma IPA 140, MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800
Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
Dac: Sonnet Morpheus 2, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
Transport: Jay's Audio CDT2 mk2, Lumin U1 mini
Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
Speaker Cables: Organic Audio Organic Reference 2
Interconnects: Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2
Power Cables: Argento Organic Reference, Synergistic Research Foundation 10 and 12 ga.
Puritan PSM156 -
Thank you
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firsttimer wrote: »
I prefer having my better quality primary speaker cables going (directly) to the midrange/tweeter posts, then jumping "down" to the woofer posts. Does it help? I don't know---but it certainly doesn't hurt. The less connections you have to pass thru, the better.
Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2 -
firsttimer wrote: »
I prefer having my better quality primary speaker cables going (directly) to the midrange/tweeter posts, then jumping "down" to the woofer posts. Does it help? I don't know---but it certainly doesn't hurt. The less connections you have to pass thru, the better.
I have been trying this since the weekend and I do like the sound reproduction. Is it better/different hard to say but I thought no it does sound better -
Thinks it sounds better damn spell check on my phone
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firsttimer wrote: »
I prefer having my better quality primary speaker cables going (directly) to the midrange/tweeter posts, then jumping "down" to the woofer posts. Does it help? I don't know---but it certainly doesn't hurt. The less connections you have to pass thru, the better.
Never gave it much thought, but that makes sense. If we have a snow day tomorrow, I might have to reverse the cables on my 705's and see what's up. -
firsttimer wrote: »
I prefer having my better quality primary speaker cables going (directly) to the midrange/tweeter posts, then jumping "down" to the woofer posts. Does it help? I don't know---but it certainly doesn't hurt. The less connections you have to pass thru, the better.
Never gave it much thought, but that makes sense. If we have a snow day tomorrow, I might have to reverse the cables on my 705's and see what's up.
Not sure where you live but snowy days might not be the best time to test your system. We are going to get hammered here is SE PA.
Once the trees start falling the power company will do anything it can to get you any amount of power. But not necessarily good power (think brownouts and Hz fluctuations)
I already have my system unplugged. -
firsttimer wrote: »
I prefer having my better quality primary speaker cables going (directly) to the midrange/tweeter posts, then jumping "down" to the woofer posts. Does it help? I don't know---but it certainly doesn't hurt. The less connections you have to pass thru, the better.
Never gave it much thought, but that makes sense. If we have a snow day tomorrow, I might have to reverse the cables on my 705's and see what's up.
Try it I am really liking it this way. Mids and highs seem a lot better to my ears. Seems to have opened them up. -
I'd rather have bass signals going thru a jumper than more articulate treble/midrange signals.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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I'd rather have bass signals going thru a jumper than more articulate treble/midrange signals.
I like the idea2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
I'd rather have bass signals going thru a jumper than more articulate treble/midrange signals.
Treble to me seems much more pronounced, same as midrange, cymbals a lot clearer. Thanks for the suggestion. I have the S60’s crossed at 60 hertz so a lot of the bass is going through my two subs anyways. Thanks again -
anyone try the diagonal setup where the negative is on the left lower and the positive is on the upper right ?
the hookup in the last diagram.
http://www.nordost.com/downloads/NorseJumperinstructions.pdfAmplifiers: Norma IPA 140, MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800
Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
Dac: Sonnet Morpheus 2, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
Transport: Jay's Audio CDT2 mk2, Lumin U1 mini
Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
Speaker Cables: Organic Audio Organic Reference 2
Interconnects: Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2
Power Cables: Argento Organic Reference, Synergistic Research Foundation 10 and 12 ga.
Puritan PSM156 -
If the jumpers are made of the same wire as the main leads, electrical theory says that their position/order doesn't matter. This is assuming a clean connection at all points. Corrosion/oxidation will obviously create a change.
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anyone try the diagonal setup where the negative is on the left lower and the positive is on the upper right ?
the hookup in the last diagram.
http://www.nordost.com/downloads/NorseJumperinstructions.pdf
Yes it sounded like snot on mine. It also shifted the image to the left. -
anyone try the diagonal setup where the negative is on the left lower and the positive is on the upper right ?
the hookup in the last diagram.
http://www.nordost.com/downloads/NorseJumperinstructions.pdf
Yes it sounded like snot on mine. It also shifted the image to the left.
Now I'm curious, try throwing some deoxit at the posts and tips and see if there's a change. -
Eventually I'm going to get a set of Kimber 4TC to go on the treble/midrange, and move my 8TC down to the woofers; and eliminate the shorting plate completely.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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anyone try the diagonal setup where the negative is on the left lower and the positive is on the upper right ?
the hookup in the last diagram.
http://www.nordost.com/downloads/NorseJumperinstructions.pdf
Yes it sounded like snot on mine. It also shifted the image to the left.
Now I'm curious, try throwing some deoxit at the posts and tips and see if there's a change.
been there done that no it did not.
Maybe when New XO's are in and new Cardas posts maybe....NOPE
To be honest I may just put everything onto one set of posts and save some money on the 2 sets of Cardas instead of 4. I will never bi-wire or bi-amp anyway. -
Hmmm, so now the question is: what caused the change...? I'm not saying there's a need for a diagnosis, but...
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Tie the leads to the High and low pass crossover together internally, and eliminate all the extra connections, and not spend a dime.
Simple is usually best. -
Tie the leads to the High and low pass crossover together internally, and eliminate all the extra connections, and not spend a dime.
Simple is usually best.
Thats what they did on all speakers for about 80 years before someone thought of Bi-wiring. And it worked. Makes you wonder why bi-wiring sounds better.
I am about to recap a Monitor 10. Will it sound better if I put in 2 more binding posts and Bi-wire it?
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Tie the leads to the High and low pass crossover together internally, and eliminate all the extra connections, and not spend a dime.
Simple is usually best.
That is the plan Kelly -
Don't forget the other purpose of bi-wired bind posts.....for bi-amping. It's not a problem if you tie them together internally, just remember you won't be able to bi-amp.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2