Polk S60 Sigs and a 300 wrms amp a bad idea?

Hi guys Quick bit about me. I'm a wizard with car audio. ( I have an FI SP4 18" V2 3500 wrms sub being pushed with a 5800 wrms amplifer at 1ohm in a vented box tuned to 27hz and it takes it all day. Every day..no clipping. No distortion. But those subs are meant for that type abuse.
I know I can over power car audio speakers. And how to keep my music clip free.. I know next to nothing about home theater.

I have a 4k QLED TV.
My goal.one day. Dolby atmos system.
I recently purchased a pair of Polk S60 towers for 8 bills Canadian. They arrive in a week.

(I have an old kenwood amp, like early 90s Model.number v309 maybe? its a 5.1 that states 100 watts@8ohms per channel (not sure if that's peak or continuous/rms.) I would like to hook my S60's up to this amp so I don't have to spend over a grand immediately on an Emotiva but I'm scared to use this amp in the meantime on my S60's. Not sure if it would damage them..not sure what kind of clean power and true rms old kenwood produce.

I watch alot alot of 4k movies. My HT system is going to be a stereo setup for now. And Dolby atmos later.
I listen to alot of electronic jungle/drum and bass/trap/uk grime etc... 99% of my music files are 320kbps or .flac quality files..my setup is downstairs in my basement and shares the space with my.gym. I listen to music loud

I'm about to order an Emotiva XPA2 - Gen3 to power the S60s. Emotiva states a XPA 2 pushes 300watts rms @8ohms per channel on their 2 channel amp.

Polk S60 says 20-300 watts @8ohms per speaker per channel
(Does that mean 300 peak or 300 rms)


I read this in the Polk instruction manual for the S60 and it just confused the living hell out of me.......,....,............

Polk Audio specifies the recommended amplification range for
each of its passive (non-amplified) loudspeakers. Typically that
specification will be expressed as a range of power such as
20-200 Watts (per channel). It is important to understand what
those numbers mean when choosing a receiver or amplifier for
your Polk loudspeakers. The lower number indicates the lowest
continuous rated power that will yield acceptable performance in
a typical listening environment. The higher number indicates the
highest per channel power that should be used with your Polk
speakers. That number should not be confused with a “Power
Handling” specification, and it does not imply that the speaker will
safely handle that full amount of power on a long-term basis. We
specify a wide range of power ratings because not all electronics
manufacturers use the same method for rating power. In fact, high
quality lower-rated amplifiers sound better and play louder than low
quality units with higher power rating.
Similarly, we recommend using amplifiers and receivers with rated
power above the Power Handling limits of our speakers because
having extra power available for short term peaks is conducive to
better sound quality, maximum dynamic range and effortless high
volume output. But we strongly urge you not to use the full power
of your amplifier or receiver for daily listening.
Loudspeakers can be damaged when an amplifier, regardless of
its wattage, is made to play at higher listening levels than its power
can clearly produce. Operation at this level can result in very high
levels of audible distortion originating in the amplifier, which can
add a harsh, gritty sound to your listening material. Simply put,
avoid excessive amplifier volume. If you hear distortion—turn the
volume down or risk damaging your speakers. You can damage
just about any speaker, regardless of power rating, if you drive an
amplifier to or beyond the point of distortion. And always make}
sure the amplifier is turned off when you’re connecting or
disconnecting cables.,.........................

So do these speakers Excel when hooked up to 300 watts rms with cleaner power like an Emotiva amp or am I going to damage them. Polk has left this way to vage and open for beginners. They say don't over power them cuz you'll wreck them but don't under power them or they'll.sound like ****. Just give me a number Polk.

Any and all help id appreciated.
Cheers
Mack
Home theater:
-Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
-Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
-Tech 1200's
-Polk S60 Towers

Car Audio:
-4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
-Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
-hertz 1000watt 4 channel
-hertz mille component speakers
-hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
-370amp mechman alternator
-2xs power 3300 amp batteries
-2/0 gauge ofc everything

Comments

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    Clean power and plenty of current is always a good thing. That being said if your amp was 1500 wpc unless you tried to give them everything they will never see all that and the only way it would ruin them is if you tried to give them everything. Common sense prevails here.

    Clear as mud right :D
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    I listen to music loud

    If that is your main goal try a pro amp and PA speakers.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1 I should of specified. Loud for lifting weights in my gym. But not so loud my ears are going to bleed. Id prefer not to sacrifice all my SQL for SPL
    Home theater:
    -Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
    -Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
    -Tech 1200's
    -Polk S60 Towers

    Car Audio:
    -4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
    -Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
    -hertz 1000watt 4 channel
    -hertz mille component speakers
    -hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
    -370amp mechman alternator
    -2xs power 3300 amp batteries
    -2/0 gauge ofc everything
  • MackMurder wrote: »
    F1 I should of specified. Loud for lifting weights in my gym. But not so loud my ears are going to bleed. Id prefer not to sacrifice all my SQL for SPL

    If that's the case why'd ya pick an Emo????

    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."


  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    MackMurder wrote: »
    F1 I should of specified. Loud for lifting weights in my gym. But not so loud my ears are going to bleed. Id prefer not to sacrifice all my SQL for SPL

    Ok, in that case there's a BAT amp for sale here that will walk all over that emo.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • I picked emo strictly for bang for the buck..and have heard alot of good reviews. But have heard parasound blows them out of the water. But out of my price range. Like I said. I know nothing about Home theater and other than parasound I don't know what else.comes close to those amps. Do you have a link for the BAT amp? I'm all ears.
    Home theater:
    -Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
    -Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
    -Tech 1200's
    -Polk S60 Towers

    Car Audio:
    -4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
    -Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
    -hertz 1000watt 4 channel
    -hertz mille component speakers
    -hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
    -370amp mechman alternator
    -2xs power 3300 amp batteries
    -2/0 gauge ofc everything
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • TNTsTunes
    TNTsTunes Posts: 751
    edited November 2017
    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."


  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    edited November 2017
    Hello @MackMurder Welcome to the forum.

    To start with there is nothing wrong Emotiva. They are more of a budget minded amp. I have a BasX-A300 powering my S60 and it did improve SQ over the stock Marantz AVR power. Upgrade plans are still for an A31.

    As for Emo or Parasound, if you got the coin get the Parasound. I would get this Parasound before a XPA http://www.safeandsoundhq.com/Parasound-2250v2-Power-Amplifier-B-Stock-Full-Warranty?cat=45 good price as long as you don't mind rolling the dice with "B" stock That is double the cost of my A300 is why I didn't get it.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • MackMurder
    MackMurder Posts: 27
    edited November 2017
    Cheers thanks Loren. That is a hell of a deal. I might do that. I'd love the bat but I can't justify spending another 2 gs with shipping on that amp. 800 American I'm guessing? I could do today
    Home theater:
    -Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
    -Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
    -Tech 1200's
    -Polk S60 Towers

    Car Audio:
    -4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
    -Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
    -hertz 1000watt 4 channel
    -hertz mille component speakers
    -hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
    -370amp mechman alternator
    -2xs power 3300 amp batteries
    -2/0 gauge ofc everything
  • Next question. that para 2250 would be doing my towers. When I upgrade to a Dolby atmos speaker setup would I be able use that amp to make a Dolby atmos setup. I don't see any preouts to add another amplifier to get 5.1.2 or the other configs.
    Home theater:
    -Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
    -Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
    -Tech 1200's
    -Polk S60 Towers

    Car Audio:
    -4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
    -Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
    -hertz 1000watt 4 channel
    -hertz mille component speakers
    -hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
    -370amp mechman alternator
    -2xs power 3300 amp batteries
    -2/0 gauge ofc everything
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    MackMurder wrote: »
    Next question. that para 2250 would be doing my towers. When I upgrade to a Dolby atmos speaker setup would I be able use that amp to make a Dolby atmos setup. I don't see any preouts to add another amplifier to get 5.1.2 or the other configs.

    You will need a preamp or receiver to run with the amplifier, or an integrated amplifier (2 channel receiver and amp in one chassis).

    You're going to need either a receiver or home theater preamp/processor for a Dolby Atmos system. I would recommend either a Marantz or Yamama rx-a. Both have built-in amps and preouts (on the 1XXX and up models for the yamaha). When you add more speakers you can just use the built in amps for the other speakers. That is what many of us including @mrloren are doing.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • Very good thanks. I imagine that loop out rca input on the para 2250 is the same as a preout on a car audio amp?
    Home theater:
    -Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
    -Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
    -Tech 1200's
    -Polk S60 Towers

    Car Audio:
    -4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
    -Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
    -hertz 1000watt 4 channel
    -hertz mille component speakers
    -hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
    -370amp mechman alternator
    -2xs power 3300 amp batteries
    -2/0 gauge ofc everything
  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,640
    MackMurder wrote: »
    Very good thanks. I imagine that loop out rca input on the para 2250 is the same as a preout on a car audio amp?

    Correct...basically the pass through to feed the same signal to another amp in the chain.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • Ok so heres what I went with for the time being. their sale.ended today so I pulled the trigger.

    PRODUCT TOTAL
    Marantz SR6011 9.2 Channel Network AV Receiver w/ Bluetooth And WiFi B-Stock × 1 $1,199.27
    Subtotal: $1,199.27
    Shipping: $11.99 via Flat Rate Shipping
    Environmental Handling Fee(s): $2.50
    Tax: $60.69
    Payment Method: Paypal Secure Payment
    Total: $1274.00 cad

    1300 was my price range. And now that I got this marantz out of the way. I have a decent amount to power my towers for the time being. I'll keep an eye open for a parasound or bat in the future for the s60's.. That parasound didn't ship.to Canada and although I have friends in America who could ship it to me. I figured **** it. Gonna need the marantz anyways. Did some quick research..4k hdr. HDMI 2.0a and 2.2 codecs. And the auddessy **** all.good things for the future. Dolby.atmos..cant go wrong right? Was it a good choice in the end? Anyone run these?
    Home theater:
    -Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
    -Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
    -Tech 1200's
    -Polk S60 Towers

    Car Audio:
    -4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
    -Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
    -hertz 1000watt 4 channel
    -hertz mille component speakers
    -hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
    -370amp mechman alternator
    -2xs power 3300 amp batteries
    -2/0 gauge ofc everything
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    Great choice! I think you’ll love it!
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • Awesome. Really excited. Thanks all for the advice. Hope to spend alot of time learning what I can off of here..........Momma's probly gonna divorce me for dropping 5500 in 2 days but hey..........what can you do. She'd complain about a sunny day if I let her
    Home theater:
    -Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
    -Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
    -Tech 1200's
    -Polk S60 Towers

    Car Audio:
    -4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
    -Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
    -hertz 1000watt 4 channel
    -hertz mille component speakers
    -hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
    -370amp mechman alternator
    -2xs power 3300 amp batteries
    -2/0 gauge ofc everything
  • Nice man. Enjoy!
    Oh, Listen here mister. We got no way of understandin' this world. But we got as much sense of this bird flyin in the sky. Now there is a lot that bird don't know, but it don't change the fact that the world is happening to him all the same. What I am tryin to say is, is that the course of your life, well its changing, and you don't even see it- Forest Bondurant
  • You are in Canada? Keep your eye out for an Anthem 2 channel amp for the S60s. Anthem is one of Canada's better exports.
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk SDA2BTL's; LAT International speaker cables, ZU Mission IC's and power cables all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    Other; M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All vintage Polk have had crossover rebuilds and tweeter upgrades.

    The best way to predict the future is to invent it.

    It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact.

    Imagine making politics your entire personality.
  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,306
    Does anyone own one of those Model 2250 series Parasound amps? I've never heard this series. I thought I read that the earlier HCA models and later Halo models were the ones to get. Is this true? Wasn't it something to do with John Curl designs or something?
    I disabled signatures.
  • For hooking up these S60's I have some 12 awg oxygen free copper wire left over from my truck install. That gonna be enough for these towers or should I go bigger.
    You are in Canada? Keep your eye out for an Anthem 2 channel amp for the S60s. Anthem is one of Canada's better exports.

    Will do thanks.
    Home theater:
    -Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
    -Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
    -Tech 1200's
    -Polk S60 Towers

    Car Audio:
    -4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
    -Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
    -hertz 1000watt 4 channel
    -hertz mille component speakers
    -hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
    -370amp mechman alternator
    -2xs power 3300 amp batteries
    -2/0 gauge ofc everything
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    @MackMurder good call on a very nice AVR.

    I went from a Sony ES to a SR5010 and haven't looked back. I ran my S60 for about 6 months off my SR5010 and it did a good job pushing them nice. I listen to a lot of 70-80's rock and the kids are more into modern stuff. They did just nice on the AVR alone. Now add an amp and you will say hello. Having the amp on the mains leaves more power for the AVR to run center channel and surrounds. I would add the amp to your system before you go full on ATMOS


    Yes the 12AWG speaker wire will do just fine.

    Speaking of ATMOS, wife and I just watched San Andres in ATMOS, what a joy and with the 15" HSU VTF3-MK5 it was like an earthquake in the family room.

    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    msg wrote: »
    Does anyone own one of those Model 2250 series Parasound amps? I've never heard this series. I thought I read that the earlier HCA models and later Halo models were the ones to get. Is this true? Wasn't it something to do with John Curl designs or something?

    I would like to try one out. It would fit in my TV stand without any mods. Maybe next year.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • @mrloren that's exciting news about the marantz. I cannot wait to hear an atmos system day

    @msg pulled this off a site somewhere

    "The Parasound New Classic series was not designed by John Curl, the Halo series is. Curl is one of those legendary circuit designers and a lot of people respect his work. The last Parasound line to carry his design ideas was the HCA line, lots of which you will find on sale here at Audiogon.
    One unique thing about the New Classic 2100 pre is its bass management capability, if you are going to run a 2.1 system or plan to add a sub in the future. This is why it was on my radar, but I have switched plans and am now building a more simple 2-channel system.
    I would go for the Halo series over the New Classic series, and I think most people here will agree. Better looks, better warranty, and in the case of the P3 and A23, its not that much more expensive."
    Home theater:
    -Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
    -Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
    -Tech 1200's
    -Polk S60 Towers

    Car Audio:
    -4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
    -Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
    -hertz 1000watt 4 channel
    -hertz mille component speakers
    -hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
    -370amp mechman alternator
    -2xs power 3300 amp batteries
    -2/0 gauge ofc everything
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    MackMurder wrote: »
    For hooking up these S60's I have some 12 awg oxygen free copper wire left over from my truck install. That gonna be enough for these towers or should I go bigger.
    You are in Canada? Keep your eye out for an Anthem 2 channel amp for the S60s. Anthem is one of Canada's better exports.

    Will do thanks.

    There's a lot more to cable than the gauge.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    MackMurder wrote: »
    For hooking up these S60's I have some 12 awg oxygen free copper wire left over from my truck install. That gonna be enough for these towers or should I go bigger.
    You are in Canada? Keep your eye out for an Anthem 2 channel amp for the S60s. Anthem is one of Canada's better exports.

    Will do thanks.

    There's a lot more to cable than the gauge.

    Depending on if their RCA or power/speaker yeah definitely.

    -Length and Size of cable dictates your total resistance and amperage/current delivery.
    -Banna plugs vs bare wire for better connectivity
    -Different metals for better conductivity. Platinum, Silver, copper, gold, and aluminum (if your on a budget)
    -How you run your rca cables in response to power sources
    -if their shielded/twisted etc.....
    -what kind of a bend you put on your cables

    I miss anything?
    Home theater:
    -Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
    -Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
    -Tech 1200's
    -Polk S60 Towers

    Car Audio:
    -4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
    -Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
    -hertz 1000watt 4 channel
    -hertz mille component speakers
    -hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
    -370amp mechman alternator
    -2xs power 3300 amp batteries
    -2/0 gauge ofc everything
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    Forget what you learned in car audio, this is a different ball game.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk