Amps of differing power output vs speaker volumes
Comments
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Views from the seating position (center of couch) as well as the rest of the room. It's got a diagonal rear wall, and 20 foot ceilings ..so it's a little crazy.Dali Optikon 1Mk2
NAD D3020 V2
Schiit Bifrost 2/64
..the rest are headphone setups. -
Here's my mcacc config file - you can open it w/ the Advanced MCACC utility. It's in a zip file.Dali Optikon 1Mk2
NAD D3020 V2
Schiit Bifrost 2/64
..the rest are headphone setups. -
SRTer - thanks for your observations. Outside of peoples' personal experiences, I've only found one guide regarding mixing amps - I think on DIYAudio's FAQs. And even that just said that it's recommended to run all channels with an equal power amplifier. Since the debate seems to not really have a definitive answer - I think the most practical approach is to just remove the potential complexities from the equation and migrate over to a good multich amp.
The A21 and Denon receiver are sold, so my amp fund is at a little over $2200 and I still have to sell the other 2 amps. So I'll have some choices, and perhaps enough left over to pick up a Cambridge 751BD or Oppo 95.
Thanks for the tip regarding Direct / Pure Direct. 2 ch music sounds great on Direct!
I'll take some pics of the the MCACC setup and post back in a bit.
@mantis, I'll take some pics of the living room as well, so you can see what I'm dealin' with.
Thanks guys. Gettin there slowly
Responding to the first statement in Red.
Yes, it is a best practice to run an amp that will power all your speakers for HT.
However, there are the mono-block people of the audio world who wouldn't agree with that. With that being said, most of them run the multi mono-blocks of the same company, series, and specs.
Truly, the point of the Pioneer Elite SC models was to power all of ones speakers' sufficiently and efficiently to reference listening levels with D-class amp power. This is where the best of the SC is to be found.
If one is not going to try to use any of the SC internal power, there is truly no need to purchase one because nearly all of the lesser Elite models will work fine as a pre for ones separate amps.
With that being said, i'm sure there are better non-internally powered AV's where their pre-out section has recieved more focus from the audio engineers over the development program.
A Pioneer Elite VSX-32 and a multi channel amp would have been more than enough.
Responding to the first statement in Blue.
Yes, I find the the DIRECT setting for 2 channel music is a delight. I use a different EQ preset for my 2 channel listening where I have gone into the MCACC and taken a flat curve and worked it to my liking.
Also, when this method is utilized, you don't have the issue of the MCACC lowering the gain on your speakers. Thus, running your volume up to -10dB will produce much more volume and SPL than your original automatic calibration made with the mic for your HT setup. I run the towers full range and everything is nice.Fronts: Polk RTi A9
Center: Polk CSI A6
Rears: Polk RTi A7
Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-35 (140 watts x 7)
Amplifier: Adcom GFA-555 Mk.II (200 watt @ 8 ohms)
Sub: Polk DSW PRO 500 (10 inch, 200 Watt)
TV: Samsung 59 inch 3D Plasma 600 Hz PN59D7000
Sources: Samsung BD-D6700 3D Blu-ray Player, DirecTV, PS3, iPhone 4 and IPod Classic with Apple Lossless Tracks -
Here's my mcacc config file - you can open it w/ the Advanced MCACC utility. It's in a zip file.
I have tried to open the file after the extract but it is not working ith the MCACC PC program I downloaded on the following site.
http://www.pioneer.eu/uk/content/products/MCACC.html
Do anyone know how to use his file in the MCACC program?
Any tips will do.Fronts: Polk RTi A9
Center: Polk CSI A6
Rears: Polk RTi A7
Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-35 (140 watts x 7)
Amplifier: Adcom GFA-555 Mk.II (200 watt @ 8 ohms)
Sub: Polk DSW PRO 500 (10 inch, 200 Watt)
TV: Samsung 59 inch 3D Plasma 600 Hz PN59D7000
Sources: Samsung BD-D6700 3D Blu-ray Player, DirecTV, PS3, iPhone 4 and IPod Classic with Apple Lossless Tracks -
Views from the seating position (center of couch) as well as the rest of the room. It's got a diagonal rear wall, and 20 foot ceilings ..so it's a little crazy.
I need measurements , your speakers look to close together and the Toe in looks wrong. Measure the distance from your listening position and then separate the speakers 3/4 that distance. When toeing in main channel speakers have them meet behind the couch or behind your head. So if you got behind the couch and looked at the speakers you would not see the sides at all. When in the listening position you will see slightly the inside side panels of the speakers. This will yield great improvements in 2 channel music. It will also make a more believable moving front for theater use.
Ok after looking at your pic's some more the rears are way to low and in front of you. If they have to remain in their position due to placement constrictions then point them at the back of the couch slighty to give you a diffuse sound. I strongly suggest getting them up higher like at least 4 feet so they are at least slightly higher then your ear. The tweeter should be 3 to 6 feet off the floor or 2 to 3 feet above your listening height. This yields best results and sounds more believable.
I'm not feeling those things on the left and right of your system , get rid of them. Move the speakers out as I suggested and get that sub out of the sound stance. It should sit slightly back of the mains pointing into the center of the room for best coverage and performance. I 'd rather see it on the inside of the left main pointing directly at the listening position. It would perform much better there.
I deal with the high ceiling as I got them 2. They suck for echo when you turn up the volume. Not much can be done to fit that unless your willing to treat the ceiling space. Not really worth it as the room is the room. Acoustical treatments can greatly improve anyones system but when the room is just not designed for sound , it makes for some challenging problems.Dan
My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time. -
@ SRTer - might be an SC-57 specific version. Let me take a look at the CD and see how big the program is. I have an FTP server you may be able to use if you really want to check it out. Will pm you later.
@mantis
MCACC distances from seating position:
L - 10' 01"
C - 9' 10"
R - 10' 01"
SR - 5' 4.5"
SL - 4' 11.5"
With respect to the surrounds - yes you're right, they're too low and a little bit in front of me. I'll see what I can do about both.
Ah yes, the lamps. I can swap the positions and put them inside of the speakers - this is one of my sister's decorating ideas.
The toe in on the front speakers is such that they meet at the listening spot, so I will need to fix that.Dali Optikon 1Mk2
NAD D3020 V2
Schiit Bifrost 2/64
..the rest are headphone setups. -
Fronts are ~62 inches apart currently.Dali Optikon 1Mk2
NAD D3020 V2
Schiit Bifrost 2/64
..the rest are headphone setups. -
Ahh there you are soundstage. I was wondering where you went lol. Okay - added about 22" of space between the speakers (81" apart now edge to edge) and they're pointing to a spot about 1foot behind the center of the couch.
That made a big difference + I moved the sub to a better spot. Still have to run MCACC again.Dali Optikon 1Mk2
NAD D3020 V2
Schiit Bifrost 2/64
..the rest are headphone setups. -
Ahh there you are soundstage. I was wondering where you went lol. Okay - added about 22" of space between the speakers (81" apart now edge to edge) and they're pointing to a spot about 1foot behind the center of the couch.
That made a big difference + I moved the sub to a better spot. Still have to run MCACC again.
Yes much better , glad that helped. You will have to run MCACC again for the changes. This is what separates the men from the boysDan
My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time. -
I think I'm too late but here goes...
That's true. OUR speakers* are 8 ohms... ...above 125Hz....my speakers are 8 ohms...
* check my sig
To quote Vr3MxStyler2k3 from post#41
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.phpt=118120&page=2Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »...but there is -zero- high pass filtering on the mid. It is playing everything. Odd design
Below 125hz the subs & mids are in parallel - 4 ohms!
Hence the reason for my earlier post...
...and my reason for bi-amping my A7s.you could save one of those other amps to drive your 'A7 bottoms thus lightnening your AVR's load. The SC-57 review I read listed 8 & 6, but no 4 ohm power rating.
Am I wrong on this specification? If I'm right your AVR is working hard to deliver enough current to drive your 'A7s
My 2.5 cents worthSamsung 60" QN65Q7FAMFXZA QLED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro, Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids “Foamed” & “Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop)
LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels*. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - RB981*
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981* -> Bi-amped CSi A6
Surrounds: Rotel 981* -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
*all connected w/Premiere ICs
5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Below 125hz the subs & mids are in parallel - 4 ohms!
Hence the reason for my earlier post...
According to Audioholics' first look, the new class D amps can handle 4 ohm loads without any issue. So if that's true, it shouldn't really be an issue.Dali Optikon 1Mk2
NAD D3020 V2
Schiit Bifrost 2/64
..the rest are headphone setups. -
Cables bro, really. Your going to have a fire in there. Nice AVR btw.Shoot the jumper.....................BALLIN.............!!!!!
Home Theater Pics in the Showcase :cool:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=73580 -
Cables bro, really. Your going to have a fire in there. Nice AVR btw.
LOL I know I know. You shoulda seen what it looked like when there were 3 amps stuffed in there
I will fix it once I decide what to do next ...
Thx. My first Pio receiver - excellent SQ. Lack of a GUI / OSD for certain things is weird, but not a big deal.Dali Optikon 1Mk2
NAD D3020 V2
Schiit Bifrost 2/64
..the rest are headphone setups.

