New Surge Protector
Comments
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LOL, I discovered this thread because last night there was a huge electrical storm over my house, and to be on the safe side I unplugged my electronics. I've had things fried before that were plugged into UPS's and surge protectors. In Key West, we have surges, black outs and brown outs constantly. It's part of island living. Our work server is hooked to an expensive protector. Despite the tone of the thread, it would be nice to learn more about different options. For me last night, the option for me to unplug was real enough.
I'm sure there are more on here that can lend an opinion. I think though that when I hear too much of one side bordering angry or selling me an idea, I tune it out, sort of like political pundits, I turn them off.Polk Audio SDA CRS+ crossover 4.1TL by Trey/VR3 (Rings and custom stand by Larry)-Polk Audio SDA SRS2 crossovers by Trey/VR3Parasound HCA1500aYamaha rxa-3070 with musicast-Celestion SL6S presence,- sl9 surround backNHTsuper1's surroundMagnepan SMGParasound 1500pre- Sofia "Baby" tube amp - Monitor Audio Silver RX2 Marantz 2230/B&Kst140Technics 1200mk2 Gamertag: IslandBerserker I am but a infinitesimally small point meeting the line of infinity in the SDA universe -
For over 100 years, facilities that can not have damage have earthed a 'whole house' protector. And waste no money on protectors adjacent to electronics. Essential to protection is a protector within feet of what absorbs hundreds of thousands of joules. Earth ground.... it would be nice to learn more about different options.
Telcos suffer maybe 100 surges with each storm. Their protector is located as close as possible to the earthing system. And up to 50 meters distant from electronics. That separation is increases protection.
Telcos suffer about 100 surges per storm. How often is your entire town without phone service for four days while they replace their computers? Homeowners are concerned with maybe one surge every seven years. Informed homeowners spend about $1 per appliance for a similar and superior solution for everything.
These concepts were taught in elementary school science. Lightning seeks earth ground. So a 20,000 amp transient selects an electrically shortest connection via what is more conductive - a wooden church steeple. But wood is not very conductive. So 20,000 amps creates a high voltage. 20,000 amps times a high voltage is high energy. Church steeple destroyed.
Franklin installed a lightning rod. Many see the rod thinking that does protection. It doesn't. A rod only connects to what does protection - earth ground. 20,000 amps on a conductive wire to earth creates a near zero voltage. 20,000 amps times a near zero voltage means near zero energy. Nothing destroyed.
Surge protection does same. A lightning strike to wires far down the street is a potentially destructive connection to earth via household appliances. Do 2 cm parts inside a protector adjacent to each appliance stop that surge? Of course not. For over 100 years, reliable facilities connected each wire short (ie 'less than 10 feet') to earth. Either directly. Or via a 'whole house' protector. Just like Franklin's lightning rods, the irrelevant surge always has a conductive path to earth. That surge does not create high voltages. Its energy dissipates harmlessly in earth. All appliances protected by only one earthed ?whole house? protector.
Any facility that can never suffer damage always uses that well proven solution. Any homeowner can purchase same for about $1 per protected appliance. More responsible companies provide them including Siemens, Intermatic, ABB, General Electric, Square D, Leviton, Keison, and Intermatic. A Cutler-Hammer solution sells in both Lowes and Home Depot for less than $50. This superior solution costs less money. Means even the dishwasher and bathroom GFCIs are protected. What most need protection during a surge? Smoke detectors.
This superior solution also costs tens or 100 times less money. Is mostly unknown to many educated by advertising and hearsay.
A telco employee could even get fired for installing those plug-in protectors. Telcos need protectors that actually connect to protection. Informed consumers obtain a similar and well proven solution for about $1 per appliance. Informed consumers also upgrade the only item that does all protection - single point earth ground.
A protector is only as effective as its earth ground ... just like Franklin's lightning rod. Protection is always about where energy dissipates. Always. -
I've decided to bite the bullet and purchase proper protection for my system...
Any one ever use the Tripp Lite LCR2400? It looks like plenty of current, suppression and filtering, plus voltage regulation in a no BS component.
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The above post said why that Tripplite does virtually nothing useful. If it has some numbers that say otherwise, then post that number. I don't see any.It looks like plenty of current, suppression and filtering, plus voltage regulation in a no BS component.
Posted was what every homeowner has needed since 1970. That costs about $1 per appliance. That does the many things that an expensive Tripplite does not even claim to do.
For example, did Tripplite forget to mention a wire that carries noise and surges around the Tripplite and into electronics? Why did they forget to discuss this?
Did they forget to mention that all electronics routinely adjusts those same voltage variations internally? Did they forget to mention that your incandescent bulbs can dim to 50% intensity. That is ideal perfect power for all electronics. Why did they forget to mention that? And how often is your AC voltage dropping that low? So the expensive Tripplite will cure what does not happen and what is already done inside all electronics. Why would you spend so much money to cure a strawman?
Defined previously were anomalies that must be averted. So that superior protection inside every appliance is not overwhelmed. Tripplite does not address those anomalies. Please read those posts before jumping to conclusions based only on appearance. -
Westcom, give it a rest, seriously. We ALL know where you stand because the ONLY time you participate is to rally against products like Tripplite, APC, etc. It's one thing to have a strong opinion but it starting to border on obsessive because that is the singular subject you post about.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | Roon Nucleus 1 w/LPS - Tubes add soul! -
Sorry westom, but a quality power center is my only available option in my rental house. Plus, a power center provides reasonable protection for most consumers under most circumstances; especially since lightning isn't a concern in my neck of the woods.
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Previously defined options are even available to all renters. What you are seeking even can be installed by the electric company behind your meter. So simple that a girl who reads the meter will probably install it. Other options also exist.Sorry westom, but a quality power center is my only available option in my rental house.
Why pay massively for something that does not even claim to do what you were asking? Everything that Tripplite might do is already inside your electronics. Often done better.
Your concern are anomalies that can overwhelm existing superior protection. Nothing inside the house can avert that anomaly. As in nothing. That Tripplite says it cures strawmen. Apparently you believe it does more because it looks expensive. Read its numbers. What does it do better?
If already convinced by a sales brochure, then why are you asking for recommendations? Read its numbers. What does it solve? All those are made irrelevant by existing solutions. What you need to worry about must be located elsewhere. -
"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | Roon Nucleus 1 w/LPS - Tubes add soul! -
I've been reading through the thread since I'm in the same boat (looking to replace a Monster product). I just wanted to see what the rest of the "brain-washed, mindless masses of strawpeople" are doing nowdays - but it's hard to follow anything with Westom chiming in about how everything is crap except for whole house solutions.
Why are you even here Westom? Isn't there a facebook group or something you could join instead?65" Sony X900 (XBR-65X900E)
Pioneer Elite SC-37
Polk Monitor 70's (2)
Polk Monitor 40's (4)
Polk Monitor CS2
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Only two types of protectors exist. Take a $4 power strip. Add some ten cent protector parts. And that is all plug-in protectors. Some may have more joules that others. But they are all similar.- but it's hard to follow anything with Westom chiming in about how everything is crap except for whole house solutions.
The other is a 'whole house' type. That is the only solution found anywhere that damage cannot happen.
Why do you think other options exist? If your Monster is so different from an APC or Belkin, then where are the numbers?
You have two options. The power strip with ten cent protector parts. All have similar spec numbers. Or the 'whole house' protector that connects to the only item that does protection. Only other differences are in their numbers.
If I am wrong, then post manufacturer spec numbers that show my error. Not a rhetorical question. I keep asking everyone for hard facts. Some only post profanity and personal accuastions. If you think the Monster was better than the less expensive Belkin, then manufacturer numbers are posted to learn why. Then learn more from those numbers - what would answer your question.
Only two types of protectors exist. If you think otherwise, then post the numbers. Please stop making emotional complaints. Those don't result in the answer you seek. -
I'm on here, to get the answers. If I had all the data, then obviously I would not need to post here. And the same arguement could be said about your posts. Coming on here and saying "There are only two types of protectors" over and over in the same thread means nothing either. Where are your numbers? You want to enlighten us all and link us to a $1 an appliance solution? I've got 4 things I want protected. There's my number for you.
Technology is here for a reason, and it changes. You're worthless babble about 10 cent parts is meaningless, because your TV is made of a bunch of 10 cent parts. So's your computer.... your car. Get my drift? All of these "parts" in conjunction with each other add up to something of value.
Am I trying to say that your solution sucks? No. Am I saying by purchasing a $200 overpriced surge protector will mean that I can take all of my stuff to the grave? Not saying that either. I consider it a preventative solution, and the peace of mind in itself is worth something to me
So once again - you can either start helping out around here like you seem to assert that nobody else is, or you can take your meaningless drivel elsewhere
You've been here for over 2 years and have a 25 post count. 10 of which are in this thread alone. Welcome to the community.65" Sony X900 (XBR-65X900E)
Pioneer Elite SC-37
Polk Monitor 70's (2)
Polk Monitor 40's (4)
Polk Monitor CS2
Polk DSW Pro 660wi
Oppo BDP-93
Squeezebox Duet
Belkin PureAV PF60
Dish Network "The Hoppa" -
A whole house type of protection is not an option for me, so I am only looking for further comments on standard plug-in power centers.
Anyone have experience with the Tripp Lite LCR2400? -
I've been watching the APC A/V line of products as I want to have a rack style UPS with battery backup with the HTPC in the setup. It has not been easy trying to find a proper solution.
This whole house protection that I skimmed over. I'd like to know more about it. I rent a property and just had a fresh 100 amp line plumbed into the house. I don't even know if Hydro up here offers such a option? Never heard of it. -
I've been watching the APC A/V line of products as I want to have a rack style UPS with battery backup with the HTPC in the setup. It has not been easy trying to find a proper solution.
This whole house protection that I skimmed over. I'd like to know more about it. I rent a property and just had a fresh 100 amp line plumbed into the house. I don't even know if Hydro up here offers such a option? Never heard of it.
It is an interesting topic, but I would appreciate if you started a separate thread on that topic as it's not the specific information I'm trying to acquire on this thread.
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Hey Zingo - It looks like we are doubling up on some of the same research. After checking a lot of reviews and pricing things out, I'm to the point of putting the APC H15 at the top of my list. That is, unless Monster wants to step up and provide me with a warranty replacement of the HTS3500 that's on the fritz.
Unfortunately I can't add much info on the TrippLite though. But from what I'm finding, APC generally beats out Belkin as far as features and cost.65" Sony X900 (XBR-65X900E)
Pioneer Elite SC-37
Polk Monitor 70's (2)
Polk Monitor 40's (4)
Polk Monitor CS2
Polk DSW Pro 660wi
Oppo BDP-93
Squeezebox Duet
Belkin PureAV PF60
Dish Network "The Hoppa" -
Provided with numbers were over 20 reasons why a protector adjacent to an appliance is ineffective protection. Or what the NIST called "useless". Since many only posted their feelings and personal attacks, then no questions were asked to learn from 100 years of well proven science.I'm on here, to get the answers. If I had all the data, then obviously I would not need to post here. And the same arguement could be said about your posts. Coming on here and saying "There are only two types of protectors" over and over in the same thread means nothing either. Where are your numbers?
I guess you are now asking to learn more. Plenty of facts were provided by each protector manufacturer. Either the specification lists each type of surge, with protection from that surge. Or it does not do that protection.
Well, the plug-in protector does protect from one type of surge that is typically not destructive. We can discuss engineering numbers behind those specs. Or I can continue discussing layman's principles that expose ineffective type protectors. For example, a protector adjacent to electronics can only do two things. Either is absorbs that energy. Or it blocks the current. Monster, Belkin, et al protectors claim to do neither. And for good reason. Destructive surges cannot be blocked and cannot be absorbed. So those protectors do near zero protection. And call it 100% protection in subjective advertising.
A surge is a current source. That means voltage increases as necessary to blow through to earth. Nothing stops that surge. A destructive surge is hundreds of thousands of joules. Read each protector's spec numbers. How does its hundreds of joules absorb hundreds of thousands of joules? It doesn't. It only protects from tiny (hundreds joules) surges that cannot damage appliances. Then it is called a surge protector. Then it sells a $4 power strip with ten cent protector parts for $25 or $150.
Professionals who study this stuff define what effective protectors do. From the NIST (US government research agency) is:
> You cannot really suppress a surge altogether, nor "arrest" it. What
> these protective devices do is neither suppress nor arrest a surge,
> but simply divert it to ground, where it can do no harm.
The NIST then says:
> The best surge protection in the world can be useless if
> grounding is not done properly.
The NIST identifies that Tripplite is "useless". Dr Kenneth Schneider also says, in layman's terms, what is necessary to have protection:
> As previously mentioned, the connection to earth ground can not be over emphasized.
From his paper:
>Conceptually, lightning protection devices are switches to ground. Once a threatening
> surge is detected, a lightning protection device grounds the incoming signal connection
> point of the equipment being protected. Thus, redirecting the threatening surge on a
> path-of-least resistance (impedance) to ground where it is absorbed.
>Any lightning protection device must be composed of two "subsystems," a switch
> which is essentially some type of switching circuitry and a good ground connection
> -to allow dissipation of the surge energy. The switch, of course, dominates the design
> and the cost. Yet, the need for a good ground connection can not be emphasized
> enough. Computer equipment has been damaged by lightning, not because of the
> absence of a protection device, but because inadequate attention was paid to
> grounding the device properly.
Everything written by professionals for layman.
Do not ground an appliance. Ground a surge protector. For example, a protector without a short (ie 'less than 10 foot') connection to earth is ineffective. What the NIST also calls "useless". That Tripplite and APC are perfect examples. And are equivalent. Obscenely expensive. Spec numbers confirm no protection from a typically destructive surge.
These concepts were originally taught in elementary school science. A 'whole house' protector does for appliances what a Ben Franklin lightning rod does for the house. Same solution. Protection is defined by where energy dissipates.
Advertising means the majority here did not even know that all phone lines already have a 'whole house' protector installed for free. A protector that has existed for longer than anyone here. And that is required both by code and Federal regulations. How many knew all phone lines already have a superior solution?
Well some will reply angry. Emotion when they did not even know about that telco 'installed for free' protector. Some will post lies about a $200 protector when best protection for all household appliances costs about $1 per appliance. A minimal 'whole house' protector starts at 50,000 amps so that even 20,000 amps lightning strikes cause no damage. Equivalent solutions can be installed even by renters - as noted earlier.
Others could learn how to have the best protection by asking further questions; by not attacking the messenger. A simple concept virtually unknown to most all homeowners. Protection is always defined by where energy dissipates. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. No earth ground defines a protector that the NIST calls "useless".
BWilberg266 also identified this problem:
Monster is only selling the same ineffective protector circuits sold by APC and Tripplite. Informed consumers purchase from more responsible manufacturers listed previously.as far as monster goes...they're all fakes (especially the ones bought in stores for $500) charging crazy amounts of money for their name. The amount of cash people drop on the Monster name instead of putting that money towards actual quality gear just drives me nuts. -
I've decided to bite the bullet and purchase proper protection for my system...
Any one ever use the Tripp Lite LCR2400? It looks like plenty of current, suppression and filtering, plus voltage regulation in a no BS component.
That's exactly what it is, a no BS component. I think you will find it does exactly what it says it does, filtering out line noise (flurescent lights are a big contributor, as are laser printers), and AVR (laser printers again). Laser printers in a commercial environment generate less problems because A) there are more circuits,
circuits have less load per circuit, C) muti-phase power. Home:
Onkyo TX-6500MKII/Polk LSI 9's (A)Polk TSi 100(B)/Polk PSW 10/Onkyo C-S5VL/Technics SL-QD33
Home 2 (Playback):
Dynaudio BM5A MKII/Dynaudio SUB 250MC/Audigy 2 ZS
College:
JBL LSR 2325P/JBL 2310SP/MOTU UltraLite MKIII -
Posted was what every homeowner has needed since 1970. That costs about $1 per appliance. That does the many things that an expensive Tripplite does not even claim to do.
Maybe I missed it as your posting style is bizarre to say the least, but what exactly is this $1 per appliance protection you keep harping about? Show me detailed information, links would also be helpful.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I have no idea how that number is reached.
Ordering a whole house surge from a retailer will set you back about $170. Most people don't have 170 things wired, much less 170 appliances. Realistically, that number is closer to $10/appliance, but I digress. Yes you can find cheaper ones, but that is the price for a quality one.
A whole house surge protects against surge only, nothing else for 120V/240V 1-phase WYE circuits, and handles surges up to 50k amps for surges hot to neutral in 8, 20 microsecond waves. An Eaton unit from Home Depot is about $60, and has a clamp of 36k amps.
A good whole house surge clamps not only line to ground and line to neutral but line to line, and neutral to ground. Most if not all also use thermalfuse metal oxide varistors, also known as MOV's, but with temperature shutoff so they don't catch fire (ideally). Some also have and gas discharge tubes for cable/telephone protection.Home:
Onkyo TX-6500MKII/Polk LSI 9's (A)Polk TSi 100(B)/Polk PSW 10/Onkyo C-S5VL/Technics SL-QD33
Home 2 (Playback):
Dynaudio BM5A MKII/Dynaudio SUB 250MC/Audigy 2 ZS
College:
JBL LSR 2325P/JBL 2310SP/MOTU UltraLite MKIII -
Go into any electrical supply house. Ask for their 'whole house' protector. Provided by companies any 'guy' would know for their quality and integrity including: GE, ABB, Siemens, Intermatic, Square D, Clipsal, Keison, and Leviton to name but a few. A Cutler-Hammer solution sells in Lowes and Home Depot for "less than $50".Maybe I missed it as your posting style is bizarre to say the least, but what exactly is this $1 per appliance protection you keep harping about?
These well proven solutions always have a dedicated wire to make a low impedance ('less than 10 foot') connection to single point earth ground. And are rated for at least 50,000 amps. So that even direct lightning strikes (ie 20,000 amps) are earthed.
Walk into any Lowes and go touch it. Most people have not a clue what has been posted without first touching it. Because these well proven solutions are so new to almost everyone.
Good 'whole house protectors do not connect L-N, L-G, and N-G. Protection is only about a connection from each incoming wire short to single point earth ground.
Cable and satellite dish need no protector. A wire from each cable to earth does better protection. Telephone needs no protector. The telco installed one for free. But again, it is only as effective as the earth ground that only a homeowner provides and must maintain.
Multiple AC wires enter. One (neutral) must already connect short to earth. All others must make the same earth ground connection via the 'whole house' protector. If any wire enters without that short connection to earth, then a surge can be inside hunting for earth destructively via appliances.
'Whole house' protectors are the only solution always found in any high reliability facility. It has existed in every telephone switching center (CO) long before those centers contained transistors. But most will only be learning about this well proven solution for the first time. Most will never grasp something this new the first time. Therefore go to a store and touch one. Notice the always required wire that makes a dedicated connection to earth. Also view something even more important - ten foot copper clad ground rods. -
Thanks for the eariler help guys and I'm going to get the Tripp Lite LCR2400. If you have another reasonable alternative or you want to continue this conversation, please PM me. I give up and this thread is now all yours westom...
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Thanks for the eariler help guys and I'm going to get the Tripp Lite LCR2400. If you have another reasonable alternative or you want to continue this conversation, please PM me. I give up and this thread is now all yours westom...
My browser hates the layout of the site for some reason, but for all intents and purposes what you bought will be fine zingo, as I mentioned earlier.
westcom, a whole house surge has a time and place. Those who live in a condo or apartment may not be able to add such a device. Those who live in houses may not want to. It's a great idea, but whole house surges still let large amounts of current through, meaning sensitive electronics can still be fried. Also, making generaliztions on brand and such is dangerous, as some of the whole house surges are different from what you claim (line to line, etc.).Home:
Onkyo TX-6500MKII/Polk LSI 9's (A)Polk TSi 100(B)/Polk PSW 10/Onkyo C-S5VL/Technics SL-QD33
Home 2 (Playback):
Dynaudio BM5A MKII/Dynaudio SUB 250MC/Audigy 2 ZS
College:
JBL LSR 2325P/JBL 2310SP/MOTU UltraLite MKIII -
The way to go zingo!Thanks for the eariler help guys and I'm going to get the Tripp Lite LCR2400. If you have another reasonable alternative or you want to continue this conversation, please PM me. I give up and this thread is now all yours westom...
westom, while you have provided some good points I am somewhat puzzled at your participation on this community as (correct me if I am wrong) your only involvement in the past couple years only has been around surge protection denigation. Not a single post regarding audio or HT (correct me if I am wrong).DARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life
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Maybe I missed it as your posting style is bizarre to say the least, but what exactly is this $1 per appliance protection you keep harping about? Show me detailed information, links would also be helpful.
I still don't understand what I supposed to buy. His whole post talks about nothing and says to go into lowes and touch it. Touch what? A link was asked to be provided, if you can't provide a link to show what your talking about but telling people to walk into a store and touch it is a little hard to fathom. -
I always ask people to "touch it", but all I ever get is a slap in the face.HT SYSTEM-
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Kitchen
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B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Why is this so hard to fathom? Go to the store. Only say, "Cutler-Hammer whole house protector." Then watch a salesman put you in front of it. How can that be any simpler? Why do so many so fear something so new?I still don't understand what I supposed to buy.
Or ask your electric company for their 'whole house' protector. How hard is that? Only when something so new creates fear.
tonyb apparently has something so new as to also create fear. But that is a plug-in solution. -
No one here has a fear of something new. Where you came up with that one is beyond all logic. The problem is trying to figure out WTF you're talking about as you don't make it easy. Why is that so hard for you to fathom?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Since a certain someone seems to have great difficulty conveying the subject matter, here are a few links that explain it clearly.
http://wholehousesurgeprotector.org/
Take note of the following;First, no matter what model you buy, a point of service suppressor is simply not enough to protect your expensive electronics and appliances from some surges. In reality its best to have a whole house surge protector installed by a qualified electrician in conjunction with point of service suppressors connected to your more expensive equipment. This provides the extra assurance and peace of mind knowing that your home is safe. Installing a whole house surge protector yourself will usually lead to headaches and decreased peace of mind because you will constantly be wondering if you got everything correct.
Second, and conversely, a whole house surge protector alone will not provide an adequate "blanket coverage" for all of your equipment or appliances. If you are going to invest any significant amount of money at all, its best to make sure you are completely safe from devastating surges.
http://reviewsurgeprotector.com/whole-house-surge-protector.html
Take note of the following;External surges have much more power behind them and can affect all devices in the entire home regardless of the point of entry. Because they are made to defend against larger surges, whole house surge protectors clamp at higher voltages (usually starting at 500 volts). The downside of this is that smaller surges will still get through, unless you have a second line of defense (point-of-use device) to protect you. With consideration to lightning, it is unlikely that any device will protect against a direct hit on a power line, even from several miles away.
As you can see a whole house protector is not the end all that someone has made it out to be. It's quite clear that secondary protection should be used for even greater peace of mind, but that in the event of a direct hit all bets are off. Obviously, the safest method for protecting your gear in a storm is still to unplug it. Something I think most of us already knew.
There's another part of the equation that a lot of whole house protectors will not address, which is noise in the line. This is where a good surge/power conditioner comes into play.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
A 'Whole House' Surge Protector installed at the breaker box is the most important element to protecting your house and protects against the most number of surges and does the best job at it than anything else does for surges especially on the AC power line. It's the most superior filter of all the surge protector locations and devices. Eaton Cutler Hammer and Eaton Innovative Technology make a great product for that. Whether it's Hospitals, Fire Stations, Police Stations, Govt Buildings, Schools, Homes that have a surge protector at it's main breaker boxes most will never lose computers and electronic devices in those buildings.
http://www.eaton.com/Electrical/USA/ProductsandServices/PowerQualityandMonitoring/InnovativeTechnologyTVSS/index.htm
If you have CATV, Internet, Phone powered by a coaxial cable coming in from the street you also want to protect that with a coaxial surge protector installed outside at the service entrance where the F to F Ground Block is and make sure it's grounded to the main house ground with a copper wire. A coaxial surge protector will protect against a surge on the center conductor of the coax.
Citel and TII make good quality coaxial surge protectors:
http://www.citel.us/coaxial_types_gas_tubes.html
http://www.winncom.com/moreinfo/item/WRLA-DC-5-TNCFF/index.html
http://www.amazon.com/TII-Broadband-Cable-Lightning-Protector/dp/B0016AIYU6
For 'downstream' plug-in protection at the circuit amp wall outlet it's important to NOT use mov based devices there as mov based devices are designed purposely to be used at the service entrance and breaker box far away from the electronic device as a mov does not handle surges properly downstream. When a mov based plug-in device downstream encounters surge energy it moves it from the hot to the neutral/ground and it's common knowledge in the pro-audio world that doing that causes ground contamination and allows that surge to have a second chance to cause problems in your electronics. What a lot of people don't realize is if you're dumping that energy to the neutral its also causing problems, it's causing a common mode surge. A mov based device can NOT handle any where near a 6.000 volt surge where as a 'Advanced Series Mode' surge protector can. A mov especially used downstream is sacrificial and if it encounters a powerful enough surge will explode causing a possible fire hazard. A member over at www.blu-ray.com had a storm in Tennessee earlier in the year and his APC got fried and so did his electronics and he went through a lot of problems with APC trying to get them to follow through with the warranty and replace it and pay for the damages.
All mov based plug-in surge protectors are the same (APC/Monster/Panamax/Triplite) which are all made in China and most likely in the same factory and give very little information on specific numbers and it's UL 1449 Adjunct Classification Test Results.
For plug-in surge protection downstream you want to use a 'Advanced Series Mode' device which doesn't use mov's. SurgeX and Brickwall are two great companies that use Advanced Series Mode. SurgeX has the patent on that and they leased part of it to Brickwall. The SurgeX has extra filters and features. Companies that use mov's like APC/Monster/Panamax/Triplite have been begging SurgeX to give them that technology. SurgeX is used by NASA, high end home theaters, professional recording studios, Carnegie Hall, Hollywood Studios and many professional sports stadiums like Dallas Cowboys Stadium. WJHW is one of the world's largest consulting firms in design and electronic planning and recommend SurgeX for many of their projects:
http://wjhw.com/
http://www.listentech.com/blog/Dallas-Cowboys-Stadium-Spotlights-Listen/
SurgeX is one of the very few surge protector companies that posts it's UL 1449 Adjunct Classification Test Results:
1000 surges, 6000 volts, 3000 amps, B3 pulse.
Measured suppressed voltage: 170 volts, no failures
Federal Guidelines: Grade A, Class 1, Mode 1 (CID A-A-55818)
http://surgex.com/
http://imsproav.com/main/Search-Results.html?ACTION=Search&START=0&END=0&MANUFACTURER=A&PRICE=M&TYPE=A&DATA=surgex&ID=1314001759244
http://www.brickwall.com/ -
These come up on Audiogon from time to time, but act quickly as they sell in minutes. They go for around $200.00 used. It's a damn shame they stopped making them.
http://www.psaudio.com/ps/products/detail/upc-200-power-conditioner?cat=power-classics
Be sure to click "continue reading."Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
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