How important is wattage...

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  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,414
    edited May 2011
    Don't confuse wattage with currant. Wattage is much less important. Its high-currant that will give you more accurate and detailed sound. No avr receiver ( under 5k ) will give you "great" currant. But they will shout about wattage to confuse the buyer! I've been thru the avr stages with denon (1083's 987's and the like) all lacking in depth, detail and accuracy. Went to ss high-currant 80w but with about 45/50 ampere and its an incredible improvement!!! Also consider the efficiency of your speakers,the sensitivity is imp.if your speakers are 4olm most avr receivers aren't stable at less than 8olm ( due to low currant. If you have a sensitivity of say mid 90's. Wattage is less imp. As far as volume is concerned! Once u exp. High-currant, wattage is (not quite but virtually) irrelevant. Subject to your speaker sensitivity! If u have pre outs (and u should) u can bypass the amps and put some nice amps (high-currant) in the sys. However u will be setting yourself up for the next upgrade---the processor also compromised in avr's. So don't expect any one piece of equip. To solve all your needs, it a synergy between all equip. You can build a great "vintage ht with high quality amps and great processors for less than 1k + speakers but you will need to spent over 4k for a new avr that won't be as good or detailed. You can buy and experiment and sell what you don't care for ( and learn what u like) for a lot less loss of money than new avr's.
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,414
    edited May 2011
    Sorry for the triple post,GD fat fingers and small keys!!!
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,545
    edited May 2011
    Think of wattage like you would horsepower in cars. It's just a very small fraction of the big picture--and it's all about the implementation and quality of build.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Source: Rotel CD14MkII CD Player - Speakers: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,418
    edited May 2011
    sadib888 wrote: »
    Its not the importance of the wattage for distortion, The wattage of your amp should match the wattage of your speakers.

    Nope, not even close to being on the right track.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | Roon Nucleus 1 w/LPS - Tubes add soul!
  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,907
    edited May 2011
    Sorry for the triple post,GD fat fingers and small keys!!!

    That sucks....you ended up spelling current wrong 15 times instead of just 5 :wink:
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited May 2011
    marvda1 wrote: »
    most times when i think of high current it is the amps that double down as impedance is halved. for example, 100 watts 8ohm, 200 watts 4ohm, 400 watts 2ohm impedance and some of the truly high current amps will specify into 1ohm loads. and yes they most go below 4ohm loads which rules out a lot of av receivers.

    I go by this as well if current numbers are not given. To double down like this requires adequate current. To be able to do this is the definition of a high current amp.
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,418
    edited May 2011
    marvda1 wrote: »
    most times when i think of high current it is the amps that double down as impedance is halved. for example, 100 watts 8ohm, 200 watts 4ohm, 400 watts 2ohm impedance and some of the truly high current amps will specify into 1ohm loads. and yes they most go below 4ohm loads which rules out a lot of av receivers.
    madmax wrote: »
    I go by this as well if current numbers are not given. To double down like this requires adequate current. To be able to do this is the definition of a high current amp.

    Just be aware that some of the less scrupulous manufacturer's will rate the power @ 8 ohm 20-20 and then 4 ohms at 1Khz.

    So be aware of that when reading specs, if you go by the spec sheet. It's also not the be all spec for all designs.

    The Aleph is 30 wpc @ 8 ohms and 40 wpc @ 4 ohms. There is no deficiency of current, I assure you. Some of the other Aleph's are the same wattage regardless of impedance...........that's because of the single ended design, not because of lack of current.

    This is more the exception, but worth mentioning.

    A push/pull topology should double or come close to doubling it's output when you decrease impedance.....it is a sign of a more robust design.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | Roon Nucleus 1 w/LPS - Tubes add soul!
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited May 2011
    steveinaz wrote: »
    Think of wattage like you would horsepower in cars. It's just a very small fraction of the big picture--and it's all about the implementation and quality of build.

    Yep and current is torque, voltage is RPM and the efficiency of your speakers is your gear ratio. :wink:
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
  • chadam44
    chadam44 Posts: 68
    edited June 2011
    As a former Denon owner of both low end and higher end models, I would definitely say that the claims of 90 watts per channel does not happen. You are probably looking more along the lines of 40-60 watts per channel all channels driven (best case.) The 1911 is a lower end Denon and is usually marketed to people who just want to see "Denon" on their receiver and who just want basic surround sound with small, hideable speakers. If you like the way the Denon recievers sound, return the 1911 and get the 2711 or higher model. The step up in power as advertised will only be up to something like 115 watts per channel but it will get closer to advertised specs, probably in the 75-95 watts per channel range, which should be pretty noticable upon hook up. If you arent locked into a Denon, the Pioneer SC models are pretty nice and pretty much hit their advertised specs accross all channels driven and can be had used for a pretty good deal. Sony ES models seem to be similar to the Denons mid range to high range offerings and can be had for good deals as well. Might even look at snagging an Onkyo 705/805/6/7/8 used as they should have enough power to move your speakers well, and can be had as cheaply as a new Denon 1911 if you look around. Good luck with the search and hopefully you find something that doesnt need to be cranked way up to move your speakers.
  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited June 2011
    OP, what is your budget?

    With that info, maybe we can point you toward a more appropriate couple of components like a decent processor/multi-channel amp....
    TNRabbit
    NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
    Sunfire TG-IV
    Ashly 1001 Active Crossover
    Rane PEQ-15 Parametric Equalizers x 2
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Seven
    Carver AL-III Speakers
    Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer
  • ranger
    ranger Posts: 50
    edited June 2011
    My budget has soared as my interest in audio has risen. I thought I would be satisfied with a nice, economical system. All that system did was make me want a real good system. A little more HT than music, but I like both. My recent addition of a PSW505 really helped.

    Looking at a Denon 3312ci, Emotiva XPA-5 (okay, there goes nearly 2k already!), and some kickin' speakers. So far I am looking at LSi15's, LSiM 705's , and Salk SongTowers. I'll probably buy the Denon and Emotiva in the next couple of months (a July 4 sale would be nice) while I continue to research a set of speakers. I'll probably wait to see some reviews on the 705 and might wait until the Holiday sales to buy something.

    Anyway, I now realize wattage is very important. Thanks for all the input so far and I welcome more input about my plan.
  • John K.
    John K. Posts: 822
    edited June 2011
    There've been some comments relating to watts and current which aren't in accord with the basic principles of audio technology. The amount of current required by a speaker with a given amount of watts being consumed is determined by Ohm's Law, not by manufacturer hype about a supposed "high current" capability. The relevant form of Ohm's Law is that current is equal to the square root of the number power divided by impedance. For example, at a comfortably loud average sound level around 85dB at the listening position, average sensitivity speakers such as the Polks use about 1 watt. If the impedance at the frequency playing at that instant happened to be 4 ohms, the current would be the square root of 1/4, i.e., 0.5 ampere. Then, considering a brief split-second peak at an extremely loud 105dB, which would require about 100 watts, the current at that instant would be the square root of 100/4, i.e., 5 amperes. At either of those levels, or any other, the current present is a fixed quantity; there's no such concept in reality of somehow for a given speaker using a given number of watts for a certain sound level that the current can vary according to what amplification is in use.
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,954
    edited June 2011
    *must step away from the keyboard*

    *must step away from the keyboard*

    *must step away from the keyboard*
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,650
    edited June 2011
    John K. wrote: »
    there's no such concept in reality of somehow for a given speaker using a given number of watts for a certain sound level that the current can vary according to what amplification is in use.
    Precisely,it's the load that determines the amount of current needed from the amplifiers output stage at any one time.Ofcourse the tougher the load the greater the current demand thus an amp with higher current capability is advantageous..
  • cstmar01
    cstmar01 Posts: 4,424
    edited June 2011
    treitz3 wrote: »
    *must step away from the keyboard*

    *must step away from the keyboard*

    *must step away from the keyboard*

    I agree. It seems for someone who proves himself wrong all the time, he sure like to talk like he knows everything. :rolleyes:
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited June 2011
    John K. wrote: »
    The amount of current required by a speaker with a given amount of watts being consumed is determined by Ohm's Law

    I = E/R
    The relevant form of Ohm's Law is that current is equal to the square root of the number power divided by impedance.

    ??? Is that calculus?
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • Outfitter03
    Outfitter03 Posts: 563
    edited June 2011
    No, but we are not talking DC but AC signal. Here is the correct equation that is a tad more complicated and at least requires trig.:rolleyes:

    http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/acohml.html
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited June 2011
    No, but we are not talking DC but AC signal. Here is the correct equation that is a tad more complicated and at least requires trig.:rolleyes:

    http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/acohml.html

    Makes sense. I was wondering where the square root of the number power divided by impedance came from.
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • rebuy
    rebuy Posts: 695
    edited June 2011
    I think high current is as important as wattage. I'm looking for a high current unit for my rti4's. So far Harman Kardon is the only one to state it's HCC numbers. Onkyo and Yamaha do not tell you the HCC of their units and it's almost impossible to find out. I know this because I have contacted them and asked them but they could not or would not give me the specs for the units. I do believe the Onkyo's are high current and not so sure about the Yammies. I am not going to buy a "cheap" average grade unit for my Polks. Most receivers DO NOT deliver the stated output across 5 or 7 channels. That is a fact. I have owned H-K and the sound of the H-K compared to other average consumer grade units is night and day.

    The power of a receiver that is built well and has high current will put lesser receivers to shame, IMHO. I do not want to push my nice speakers to burn out because I picked a receiver with INFLATED Specs to boost my ego.

    If you have to buy a receiver with 50 or 75 watts or more, just be sure it can handle the peak loads that will require more current on high level passages or your receiver might run out of gas.

    I'm getting ready to buy a receiver and right now Onkyo is in my price range. The reason I'm looking at Onkyo is because of the build quality of the Amplifier section. If I had the money, I would buy H-K just because of the way it sounds.