Seal Back Speakers in Ranger PICS

p0wd3rmnkyp0wd3rmnky Posts: 11
edited February 2011 in Custom Fabrication
I think I figured out why my back speakers sound terrible and have NO bass. They are basically free air. How do you recommend I seal them into the enclosure? I know someone out there has done this before. Thank you.
Post edited by p0wd3rmnky on

Comments

  • mole'mole' Posts: 3,160
    edited July 2010
    can you take the back panel off? if so i would think to make a small lil enclosure around the speakers.
    mole'
  • p0wd3rmnkyp0wd3rmnky Posts: 11
    edited July 2010
    When you say back panel, what do you mean the silver metal bracket that goes in between the speaker and the white metal of the truck?
  • KaosTsocKaosTsoc Posts: 372
    edited August 2010
    You may want to take a look at getting two baffels

    http://www.crutchfield.com/S-N3c1AGX59i4/g_762/Foam-Speaker-Baffles.html

    They are foam, and yes I currently use them, and it works fine for me. Plus I used them more to protect my front speakers from getting wet when I rolled down the window etc, since the DB speakers did not have a built in baffel. Or the other option is to build your own fiber glass enclosure to fit that hole, and place the speaker in the enclosure. Hope this helps.


    Thanks.
    2006 Prerunner Access Cab
    5 Speed 4 cycl 2wd

    Audio:
    Pioneer P860 Head Unit
    Polk Audio MM6501
    Alpine PDX F-6
    Two SR124(SVC)
    Alpine PDX M12
    Kinetik HC2000 battery and Sleeve
    200 Amp Mean Green High Output Alternator




    Need a DJ, photobooth, or both for rent?

    http://photoboothdallas.org
  • Installer4lifeInstaller4life Posts: 256
    edited August 2010
    Most car speakers are designed to run free air. The speakers in your doors are free air. The problem with the rear speakers in that truck is if you take a close look at the mount it does a terrible job of isolating the front of the speaker from the back therefore you get cancellations. Build you a new baffle so that the front is sealed from the back and you will notice a difference. Also sealing the cavity with dynamat or similar product will help. Don't waste your time with foam baffles or building and enclosure because it will not do much for you.
  • KaosTsocKaosTsoc Posts: 372
    edited August 2010
    Most car speakers are designed to run free air. The speakers in your doors are free air. The problem with the rear speakers in that truck is if you take a close look at the mount it does a terrible job of isolating the front of the speaker from the back therefore you get cancellations. Build you a new baffle so that the front is sealed from the back and you will notice a difference. Also sealing the cavity with dynamat or similar product will help. Don't waste your time with foam baffles or building and enclosure because it will not do much for you.

    Oh, well I retract my previous post, please disregard. My bad thought it was a good idea. Sorry about that.

    Also installer I might have to ask you about your statement sometime to get more info, but not at this time that is for another time, and thanks for the correction.

    Thanks.
    2006 Prerunner Access Cab
    5 Speed 4 cycl 2wd

    Audio:
    Pioneer P860 Head Unit
    Polk Audio MM6501
    Alpine PDX F-6
    Two SR124(SVC)
    Alpine PDX M12
    Kinetik HC2000 battery and Sleeve
    200 Amp Mean Green High Output Alternator




    Need a DJ, photobooth, or both for rent?

    http://photoboothdallas.org
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 15,956
    edited August 2010
    You need to do something to separate the front of the speaker from the back. If you can get rid of any space between the speaker and the bracket, and make a "seal", I bet the sound would improve greatly.
  • p0wd3rmnkyp0wd3rmnky Posts: 11
    edited August 2010
    They are 5x7's. Any ideas on what material to use to seal it or how to build a new baffle? I thought of making a MDF spacer, but I don't think the speaker covers would fit. Thanks
  • Installer4lifeInstaller4life Posts: 256
    edited August 2010
    Take the metal bracket off and make one out of 1/2" MDF. You can get a small piece at The Home Depot or Lowes. Cut it so it is large enough to to cover the existing hole in the truck. Cut a new 5X7 hole in the wood. You may have to trim some of the metal because the hole in the truck may not be large enough. Seal it with some foam insulation tape and you will be good to go...
  • p0wd3rmnkyp0wd3rmnky Posts: 11
    edited August 2010
    Thank you!
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 15,956
    edited August 2010
    How goes the project?
  • inspiredsportsinspiredsports Posts: 5,505
    edited February 2011
    posts 13-16 reported (from soon to be banned thalgetycle)
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
Sign In or Register to comment.

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!