Want to switch out the capacitors on my Monitor 40s

SedakoSedako Posts: 9
edited August 2010 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
I've never actually tinkered around inside speakers before, so this will be a first for me. At the suggestions of some posts and reviews, I would like to get some Jantzen Z-Standards and swap them with the stock capacitors. First of all, which specific Z-Standard should I get for these speakers? Also, would anyone have any pointers in how to go about doing this?
Post edited by Sedako on

Comments

  • McLokiMcLoki Posts: 5,263
    edited July 2009
    The crossover is on the back of the terminal cup (where you hook your speaker wires to the speaker)

    Many here use Dayton caps from parts express for inexpensive cap upgrades. (although I have not heard anything bad about Jantzen either)

    Yes - just get the same values as what you have now and go for it.

    (do a quick search for crossover upgrade and you will get some ideas of what you are getting yourself in for. it may not be for your exact speaker, but there are good tips in many of the upgrade threads) (there are even a few in my sig... :) )

    Michael

    BTW - Welcome to Club Polk.
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, [email protected])
  • SedakoSedako Posts: 9
    edited July 2009
    McLoki wrote: »
    BTW - Welcome to Club Polk.

    Thanks! Would it benefit me at all to go for some higher spec'd caps, or is it best to match specs to the old ones?
  • McLokiMcLoki Posts: 5,263
    edited July 2009
    personally I would do an exact replacement with higher quality parts.... That is what most seem to do with very good results.

    BTW - the schematic for your monitor 40's is located here....
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, [email protected])
  • AudioGenicsAudioGenics Posts: 2,586
    edited July 2009
    get several high quality parts and compare for best effect.
    lots of options are available to choose from.
  • FaceFace Posts: 14,714
    edited July 2009
    Replace C1 and C2 with a single 8.2uf cap. I like the sound of Dayton more than the standard Jantzen, but YMMV.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • SedakoSedako Posts: 9
    edited July 2009
    I appreciate all the help. I went ahead and picked up a couple Dayton 8.2s
  • zingozingo Audiophile Posts: 11,837
    edited July 2009
    Face wrote: »
    Replace C1 and C2 with a single 8.2uf cap. I like the sound of Dayton more than the standard Jantzen, but YMMV.

    Is that the Jantzen Standard Z-Cap or Crosscap?
  • FaceFace Posts: 14,714
    edited July 2009
    Jantzen Standard Z-Cap, I was not fond of them at all.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • SedakoSedako Posts: 9
    edited July 2009
    Before I gut my speakers, is there anything else I need beyond the two caps and some good old solder? Should I worry about discharging the old caps or are they weak enough not to matter? If you can't tell, I have limited circuity experience. :D
  • SedakoSedako Posts: 9
    edited July 2009
    I see there's no way to edit a post. I'd like to add that I picked up slightly the more pricey Dayton crossover caps, and not the Dayton polys. Are they used for different purposes?
  • FaceFace Posts: 14,714
    edited July 2009
    Sedako wrote: »
    Before I gut my speakers, is there anything else I need beyond the two caps and some good old solder? Should I worry about discharging the old caps or are they weak enough not to matter? If you can't tell, I have limited circuity experience. :D
    Yes, put both leads across your tongue. :D

    Anything from a speaker crossover won't hold a charge large enough to do any damage, or possibly even enough for you to feel anything.

    As for the Dayton caps, did you purchase the 1% caps instead? The only difference is the tollerance.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • SedakoSedako Posts: 9
    edited July 2009
    Face wrote: »
    As for the Dayton caps, did you purchase the 1% caps instead? The only difference is the tollerance.

    Yes. It was the 1% caps.
  • SedakoSedako Posts: 9
    edited July 2009
    Ok, I had enough time today to change out the caps in one of them, which also allows me to do some comparisons. Even without burn-in, the difference in definition is very impressive. I honestly never noticed how poorly cymbals sounded with the old caps.
  • SedakoSedako Posts: 9
    edited July 2009
    Now that this project is done, I have a new question. Would it be beneficial to switch out one of the woofer in the M40s with a midrange such as this? I honestly don't see the need for two woofers on each speaker, and would like to fill out the midrange. Would swapping these out be as easy as a simple re-solder, out would the crossovers have to be modified?
  • FaceFace Posts: 14,714
    edited July 2009
    No, leave it alone. Besides, anything from Pyle is a pile of crap.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • SedakoSedako Posts: 9
    edited July 2009
    Alright, I'll take your word for it.
  • amjoshamjosh Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    I replaced the built in caps with dayton 8.2 uF caps with 1% tolerance. There is definitely noticeable difference in the sound. The high frequency is much better overall sound appears more clear and crisp. However, it also sounds a bit harsh. Do you think the capacitors also need burn in ?
  • FaceFace Posts: 14,714
    edited August 2010
    Yes, but Dayton aren't the smoothest. Try Claritycaps or Sonic Caps if you're looking for something warmer/smoother.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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