Want to switch out the capacitors on my Monitor 40s
Sedako
Posts: 9
I've never actually tinkered around inside speakers before, so this will be a first for me. At the suggestions of some posts and reviews, I would like to get some Jantzen Z-Standards and swap them with the stock capacitors. First of all, which specific Z-Standard should I get for these speakers? Also, would anyone have any pointers in how to go about doing this?
Post edited by Sedako on
Comments
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The crossover is on the back of the terminal cup (where you hook your speaker wires to the speaker)
Many here use Dayton caps from parts express for inexpensive cap upgrades. (although I have not heard anything bad about Jantzen either)
Yes - just get the same values as what you have now and go for it.
(do a quick search for crossover upgrade and you will get some ideas of what you are getting yourself in for. it may not be for your exact speaker, but there are good tips in many of the upgrade threads) (there are even a few in my sig... )
Michael
BTW - Welcome to Club Polk.Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms) -
BTW - Welcome to Club Polk.
Thanks! Would it benefit me at all to go for some higher spec'd caps, or is it best to match specs to the old ones? -
personally I would do an exact replacement with higher quality parts.... That is what most seem to do with very good results.
BTW - the schematic for your monitor 40's is located here....Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms) -
get several high quality parts and compare for best effect.
lots of options are available to choose from. -
Replace C1 and C2 with a single 8.2uf cap. I like the sound of Dayton more than the standard Jantzen, but YMMV."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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I appreciate all the help. I went ahead and picked up a couple Dayton 8.2s
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Replace C1 and C2 with a single 8.2uf cap. I like the sound of Dayton more than the standard Jantzen, but YMMV.
Is that the Jantzen Standard Z-Cap or Crosscap? -
Jantzen Standard Z-Cap, I was not fond of them at all."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Before I gut my speakers, is there anything else I need beyond the two caps and some good old solder? Should I worry about discharging the old caps or are they weak enough not to matter? If you can't tell, I have limited circuity experience.
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I see there's no way to edit a post. I'd like to add that I picked up slightly the more pricey Dayton crossover caps, and not the Dayton polys. Are they used for different purposes?
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Before I gut my speakers, is there anything else I need beyond the two caps and some good old solder? Should I worry about discharging the old caps or are they weak enough not to matter? If you can't tell, I have limited circuity experience.
Anything from a speaker crossover won't hold a charge large enough to do any damage, or possibly even enough for you to feel anything.
As for the Dayton caps, did you purchase the 1% caps instead? The only difference is the tollerance."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
As for the Dayton caps, did you purchase the 1% caps instead? The only difference is the tollerance.
Yes. It was the 1% caps. -
Ok, I had enough time today to change out the caps in one of them, which also allows me to do some comparisons. Even without burn-in, the difference in definition is very impressive. I honestly never noticed how poorly cymbals sounded with the old caps.
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Now that this project is done, I have a new question. Would it be beneficial to switch out one of the woofer in the M40s with a midrange such as this? I honestly don't see the need for two woofers on each speaker, and would like to fill out the midrange. Would swapping these out be as easy as a simple re-solder, out would the crossovers have to be modified?
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No, leave it alone. Besides, anything from Pyle is a pile of crap."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Alright, I'll take your word for it.
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I replaced the built in caps with dayton 8.2 uF caps with 1% tolerance. There is definitely noticeable difference in the sound. The high frequency is much better overall sound appears more clear and crisp. However, it also sounds a bit harsh. Do you think the capacitors also need burn in ?
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Yes, but Dayton aren't the smoothest. Try Claritycaps or Sonic Caps if you're looking for something warmer/smoother."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche