Sonic Barrier BlackHole in my SDA 1C's

thsmith

Now that the process has been perfected I need to give this a try.

Thanks to all the trail blazers.

george daniel

Thanks for the kind words Tracy,, I should be kicking myself for waiting this long to remove the majority if it,lol,,.

Joe08867

george daniel wrote: »

Whew-- well,,I just pulled out the "barrier",,most of it anyhow,,left the barrier behind the mid-drivers,and a little on the upper sides,and I'm gonna have to admit(yep,,I'm not too big to say it),,I overdid it,,,Mark and Larry are spot on--too much,as in my case just kills it,,,what am I hearing,,more "life" to the music(no pun intended)and a much less subdued sound.Lesson learned,,more is not better.

I did the same thing and found out the hard way or at least the more expensive way. :rolleyes: It is amazing how much the tighten up and deepen without the extra barrier isn't?

thsmith

A question for the trail blazers. Looking at adding BH5 to my 1Cs.

From what I have read leave the batting in.

For the BH5 I am thinking of making 1.9" strips X 24" long strips. 1 strip behind tweets, 1 behind each roll of MWs and 2 strips on each side.

No BH5 will hang below factory batting.

Should I go with more or should this pretty much do it?

If this is about right then I need just one sheet since they are 24"x27". If ordered 2 sheets then my strips would be 3.8"x24".

TIA,

brgman

Just got mine delivered today! Sweet.
Now i must have missed it if it was mentioned but what has been found to be the best way to cut and trim this stuff??

Joe08867

Really sharp razor. Worked for me.

george daniel

thsmith wrote: »

A question for the trail blazers. Looking at adding BH5 to my 1Cs.

From what I have read leave the batting in.

For the BH5 I am thinking of making 1.9" strips X 24" long strips. 1 strip behind tweets, 1 behind each roll of MWs and 2 strips on each side.

No BH5 will hang below factory batting.

Should I go with more or should this pretty much do it?

If this is about right then I need just one sheet since they are 24"x27". If ordered 2 sheets then my strips would be 3.8"x24".

TIA,

I can tell you what I did-- initially I covered the entire back top,and bottom with BH,,sides with SB,, this weekend I removed the BH from the bottom,and back(belowthe mids/tweeters),I removed the SB from the sides(almost to the top),,I replaced the batting(original) behind the mids.Thats where I'm at so far,the best that I could say would be to place it behind the mids,,see how you like it,,then add/subtract to your liking/performance.I hope this helps,,and may possibly save someone the extra cost and time.

JimAckley

IIRC, BH5 was designed moreso for subs, and NoRez was designed moreso for everything else, so why is everyone using BH5 in full-range speakers?

dorokusai

I believe it's just a couple people Jim. I bought it because it was on sale and served the purpose.

thsmith

george daniel wrote: »

I can tell you what I did-- initially I covered the entire back top,and bottom with BH,,sides with SB,, this weekend I removed the BH from the bottom,and back(belowthe mids/tweeters),I removed the SB from the sides(almost to the top),,I replaced the batting(original) behind the mids.Thats where I'm at so far,the best that I could say would be to place it behind the mids,,see how you like it,,then add/subtract to your liking/performance.I hope this helps,,and may possibly save someone the extra cost and time.

Thanks George, That does help.

Toolfan66

Yesterday I tore down my 1.2tl's to do a couple of mods as stated above I originally covered the inside of the speaker about a year ago I think it was. I hated it and tore it all out, well as time went on I learned a few do's and dont's.

Well I had success in putting in the sonic barrier in my 1C's as well as my CRS+'s of course I just used a little. In the 1C's I put two 3" strips in each speaker about 15" long right behind the drivers, and with the CRS+'s I just put a little on the sides of the cabinet.

Well yesterday as I had the 1.2tl's torn down I thought I would stick a little behind the drivers as I did the 1C's. 3" strips about 30" long, again more is not better in this case all you need is a little.

I'm glad I had the sonic barrier sitting around to try this one more time in these speakers. No need for BH5 for one it cost more and it's not necessary IMO.

They sound really good and as I have said in the past what this stuff does for the clarity for the highs is incredible,the difference this time is I now have tight accurate bass as well..

Enjoy!!!


George have you taken anymore out of your 1C's??

george daniel

he,he,, just finished removal last night,,,I just have a little blackhole about halfway behind the mids now--I removed the rest,and have cuts and scrapes to prove it.They don't sound as laid back anymore--the life/sparkle has returned,,lesson learned,,man,,I'm sure glad that I installed those rings that you made--much easier than the "old days".

headrott

TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »

Yesterday I tore down my 1.2tl's to do a couple of mods as stated above I originally covered the inside of the speaker about a year ago I think it was. I hated it and tore it all out, well as time went on I learned a few do's and dont's.

Well I had success in putting in the sonic barrier in my 1C's as well as my CRS+'s of course I just used a little. In the 1C's I put two 3" strips in each speaker about 15" long right behind the drivers, and with the CRS+'s I just put a little on the sides of the cabinet.

Well yesterday as I had the 1.2tl's torn down I thought I would stick a little behind the drivers as I did the 1C's. 3" strips about 30" long, again more is not better in this case all you need is a little.

I'm glad I had the sonic barrier sitting around to try this one more time in these speakers. No need for BH5 for one it cost more and it's not necessary IMO.

They sound really good and as I have said in the past what this stuff does for the clarity for the highs is incredible,the difference this time is I now have tight accurate bass as well..

Enjoy!!!


George have you taken anymore out of your 1C's??

How do you mean "behind the drivers" Larry for the placement of the sonic barrier? I am interested since you said the highs and lows have increased in clarity in the bigger speakers (1.2TL's).

Greg

george daniel

I can't speak for Larry,, but I pretty much covered my 1C's with BH & SB,top/bottom/sides/back--what I ended up with was BH on the inside rear of the cabinet, behind the mid-drivers.I don't think it has to be that exact/precise. Too much,, as in our cases,lol,,, kinda does some funky things to the bass,,and moves you back 15-20 rows,,I hope this makes sense,good luck,and please let us know your impressions if you decide to apply any.

Toolfan66

headrott wrote: »

How do you mean "behind the drivers" Larry for the placement of the sonic barrier? I am interested since you said the highs and lows have increased in clarity in the bigger speakers (1.2TL's).

Greg

Just on the back wall behind the drivers..

Toolfan66

george daniel wrote: »

he,he,, just finished removal last night,,,I just have a little blackhole about halfway behind the mids now--I removed the rest,and have cuts and scrapes to prove it.They don't sound as laid back anymore--the life/sparkle has returned,,lesson learned,,man,,I'm sure glad that I installed those rings that you made--much easier than the "old days".

Are you still getting the better clarity with just the use of a little behind the drivers? You are right about the rings it helped a lot..

headrott

TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »

Just on the back wall behind the drivers..

OK Larry, that's what I figured you meant. But, I figured it would be best to ask.

Greg

headrott

george daniel wrote: »

I can't speak for Larry,, but I pretty much covered my 1C's with BH & SB,top/bottom/sides/back--what I ended up with was BH on the inside rear of the cabinet, behind the mid-drivers.I don't think it has to be that exact/precise. Too much,, as in our cases,lol,,, kinda does some funky things to the bass,,and moves you back 15-20 rows,,I hope this makes sense,good luck,and please let us know your impressions if you decide to apply any.

Thanks for the advice George. I certainly will let you know if I do this mod. We'll see.....

Greg

Toolfan66

Greg,

Try it, the sonic barrier is not that expensive from parts express and you will only need one piece..

Jer.War

To those that have employed this mod on SDAs: Do you thing the LSI15's would benefit from this MOD?? Thoughts on Placement of the material. I am modding the crossovers so I will have all the drivers out anyway.... Dynamat instead???
Thanks guys.

JimAckley

Well Dynamat is made to dampen things like doors, metal panels (or any panels in your car for that matter), speaker baskets, etc. from vibrating and resonating, which results in a coloration of the sound. I'm sure a little slab of NoRez would do well on the back wall of the top section, and some BH5 would benefit the subwoofer chamber

EndersShadow

Doro posted that he put some around the inside of the port tube. Beyond that the LSi's cabinet is meant to resonate with the speaker (as are most speakers), so deadining it might not be helpful and possibly even hurtful.

The reason folks do it on the SDA's is for the passive radiator, which is powered by air movement, the LSi's sub is active so its a different ballgame. They also use it on the baskets for the mid range drivers to deaden them. You might be able to do that w/ the LSi's but it prob wont help as much IMHO....

A better low cost upgrade for the LSi's would be to replace the stock woofer with a db6408 Polk sub instead.

dorokusai

It was suggested by Polk Audio Engineering that some damping should be applied to the port tube of the LSi15/LSi25.

JimAckley

dorokusai wrote: »

It was suggested by Polk Audio Engineering that some damping should be applied to the port tube of the LSi15/LSi25.

I'll have to give that a shot. I'm also kinda curious about the db subwoofer swap. I wonder if it's as effective in the 25s as it is in the 15.

EndersShadow

JimAckley wrote: »

I'll have to give that a shot. I'm also kinda curious about the db subwoofer swap. I wonder if it's as effective in the 25s as it is in the 15.

Dont know if its possible in the 25's since they use a 10" woofer rather than a 8" one......

Would mean a different model of Polk DB sub, possibly the db1040

JimAckley

Well the size difference is a given. I'm just curious if the performance benefits will be the same

Jer.War

I have applied dynamat to the tube of my LSI15, as well as all the baskets and replaced the stock driber with ones from the DB series. After these mods I felt there was a noticeable difference in the bass response. More articulate, better attack, less bloated. I was just curious about the sonic barrier. Thanks for the input guys.

kdblove_99

So is it worth it to do sonic barrier at all? I have RTA 11Ts. What size do you guys use. I just read somewhere VR3 said while the 3/4 is thinner than the 1" that the 3/4" is 3 ply and superior over the 1 ply 1" stuff..