The lighting fuse (SR6500 speakers)

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Comments

  • TakeTheTime
    TakeTheTime Posts: 249
    edited April 2010
    On topic, today I tried to play really LOUD. And for the first time, I saw the fuse glow. It still played well, but is it a sort of protection for the tweeter or something? Maybe my speaker cables are too small? (the power cable to the amp is ok, it's 4 gauge - but the speaker cables are only 1,5 mm^2...)
    Pioneer P88RS-II | Polk Audio SR5250 | JL Audio 12w6v2 | 2x Genesis 3 Stereo 100 | Genesis 3 Monoblock
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited April 2010
    The fuse lighting up is normal. Its there to protect your tweeters. Dont sweat it unless it lights up as soon as you turn your stereo on.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • TakeTheTime
    TakeTheTime Posts: 249
    edited April 2010
    Okey, so no danger. :) It doesn't protect my woofers?? This is what I don't like about going active, I won't have this protection anymore... :(
    Pioneer P88RS-II | Polk Audio SR5250 | JL Audio 12w6v2 | 2x Genesis 3 Stereo 100 | Genesis 3 Monoblock
  • arun1963
    arun1963 Posts: 1,797
    edited April 2010
    You'll just have to use common sense while setting the gains. But there are tons of other benefits of going active. ;)
  • TakeTheTime
    TakeTheTime Posts: 249
    edited April 2010
    Okey thanks. I'll be carefull, but now I know how incredibly loud the SR's can go. :D
    Pioneer P88RS-II | Polk Audio SR5250 | JL Audio 12w6v2 | 2x Genesis 3 Stereo 100 | Genesis 3 Monoblock
  • arun1963
    arun1963 Posts: 1,797
    edited April 2010
    MacLeod wrote: »
    Yeah I'm curious as to how It will sound. These are the worst speaker locations Ive ever seen so this will definitely be interesting. Probably gonna have to rely on the tweeters more than usual to make up for the crappy placement. Should be fun though.

    Some of the issues that I have noticed with mids mounted high on the doors:

    1. The steering column is right in front of the driver side mid. This becomes a major issue in the 2-4khz range. 3khz eg is 6db lower on the drivers side.

    2. Reflections are a huge issue. My 1-20khz range is set for L/R as follows, I can only equalise for L/R in 2db steps. Xover point 5khz with mid on 18db slope and tweets on 12db:
    1.25khz : -10db L / -8db R
    2.5khz : -8db L / -4db R
    3.5khz : -8db L / -2db R
    5khz : -4db L / -4db R
    8khz : -4db L / -6db R
    12.5khz : -2db L / -2db R
    20khz : -2db L / 0db R
    Of course these settings are also based on the fact that I can't set tweets and mids seperately and this range is being played by both sets of drivers. Also there is virtually no reflections treatment in the car.

    3. Because the midrange and upper mids are so heavily attenuated, everything else follows suit. I am sure I'm loosing a bit of impact by attenuating everything.

    4. Somewhere along the line I tried getting the tweets to play lower on steep slopes, just so that I could reduce the problems of the mid in the 3-5khz range. I tried 3.15khz as a xover point with the tweets on 24db and mids on 12db/18db. I actually ran this way for a couple of weeks and tweaked a fair bit. IIRC the 1-3khz was run lower than what I have it at the 5khz range. I lost stage height, some tonality but most importantly I could never get the 'open & relaxed' sound that I got at a 4-5khz xover. Maybe it was my limited tuning skills, lack of processor or whatever. I don't know if its just me but I think the RR have great top end but are lousy playing 3khz and lower. This may work better with those 2.5" Morel tweets tho :)

    I am really looking forward to your comments once you have your setup installed.

    The 3 way with the mids playing 50-200, mid range playing 200-8khz and the RR playing 8khz upwards just sounds like a better option IMHO.

    Try the 2way and then try the 3way in temp mounts.