The lighting fuse (SR6500 speakers)

fjolivo

My system:
4runner
Pioneer avic 6050dvd Head unit
1 Polk Audio sr 6500 (depending on the answer I'd get another pair or sell the one I own)
2 JL Audio 13w7
1 Alpine pdx 1.1000 (hooked to 1 sub, getting another amp of this)
1 Apline pdx 4.150

My speakers fuse (on the crossover) is lights everytime I want some power :mad: Ive alredy droped half of the amps gain and Im still having that annoying lighting under my seat... Is it normal??? Isnt the light some kind of warning???

fjolivo

They have like... 40 minutes played... Some ppl say that Ill hear the difference after 100 hours omg...

TakeTheTime

I still have mine in "break in"-mode (SR5250 though), reaching almost 40 hours now.
Around 25 hours, the midbass starts to become audioble (?), and from there it just
gets better & better! Definately worth the wait. I haven't been too patience myself,
I've let the speakers play outside in the car while I sit in my house. Haha! Works fine.

MacLeod

I dont know about 100 hours. Speakers are a mechanical device but it doesnt take 100 hours for a V8 to break in! Usually after a week theyre going to be as broke in as theyre gonna get.

Dont worry about that fuse lighting up. It shouldnt be on all the time but coming on now and then aint hurtin' nothing.

TakeTheTime

MacLeod wrote: »

I dont know about 100 hours. Speakers are a mechanical device but it doesnt take 100 hours for a V8 to break in! Usually after a week theyre going to be as broke in as theyre gonna get.

Dont worry about that fuse lighting up. It shouldnt be on all the time but coming on now and then aint hurtin' nothing.

A week only? What do you mean, how many hous each day??

MacLeod

Im not an engineer so I cant give you an exact figure. All I can say is that out of all the speakers Ive used, Ive never noticed any change in a speakers sound after the first half dozen hours or so.

arun1963

MacLeod wrote: »

I dont know about 100 hours. Speakers are a mechanical device but it doesnt take 100 hours for a V8 to break in! Usually after a week theyre going to be as broke in as theyre gonna get.

Over the first 3-4 weeks I played the sr's like 5-6 hours a day. I kept picking up stuff into the third week, Maybe they were all there at the end of the first week and it just took me longer to pick it all up.

TakeTheTime

And I've heard that they aren't fully broken in before you've given them some extreme crankin'
Man, the SR5250 can play loud!! With my MRP-F200 (2x 100w rms), I can make my ears bleed...

arun1963

Sr's will handle above rated watts easy, what you don't want to do is to drive them into clipping for a few extra db's. Just make sure you're gains are set properly.

The sr's will play loud but are not about loudness. They are more about the ability to deliver great detail.

TakeTheTime

Clipping is not good no, never happened though. Yes, but I think they sound better when I go loud!

MacLeod

Yeah the 5250's are awesome. I ran them in 07 and never got dinged for poor midbass. Actually I think aive decided to run them again this year. I just dont have the time or especially money to get custom kick panels done so Im gonna stick with stock locations.

TakeTheTime

MacLeod wrote: »

Yeah the 5250's are awesome. I ran them in 07 and never got dinged for poor midbass. Actually I think aive decided to run them again this year. I just dont have the time or especially money to get custom kick panels done so Im gonna stick with stock locations.

Nice. But stock locations work fine for me, like this:



I've focused on well-mount (it's stuck very well in the door),
and a lot of damping and sealing inside. Sounds pretty great! :cool:

MacLeod

Yeah but thats a GOOD stock location, low and forward. Mine sit halfway up the door - right in front of the armrest. When you lean back, the arm rest almost completely blocks the speaker grill.

The good thing is I think I should be able to mount the tweeter dead on axis which will be a HUGE help. I dont have sail panels but the A pillar is about 2-2.5" thick so Ive got a nice flat surface staring right at me.

Ive got a lot of processing power so I should be able to get them imaging pretty good. The tonality shouldnt be a problem at all since these are SR's.

arun1963

The sr mid in the door, the tweets on the a pillars, no kicks, so, where do the founteks go?

TakeTheTime

MacLeod wrote: »

Yeah but thats a GOOD stock location, low and forward. Mine sit halfway up the door - right in front of the armrest. When you lean back, the arm rest almost completely blocks the speaker grill.

The good thing is I think I should be able to mount the tweeter dead on axis which will be a HUGE help. I dont have sail panels but the A pillar is about 2-2.5" thick so Ive got a nice flat surface staring right at me.

Ive got a lot of processing power so I should be able to get them imaging pretty good. The tonality shouldnt be a problem at all since these are SR's.

Yeah, it's fine since my tweeters are on axis too.
(The right tweeter is on axis to the drivers headrest,
and the left tweeter is on to the passangers headrest).

The only thing I don't like is that
the human bodies/legs are in the way...

MacLeod

arun1963 wrote: »

The sr mid in the door, the tweets on the a pillars, no kicks, so, where do the founteks go?

They go in a box on the shelf with the pairs of Vifa, Morel and LPG tweets that I bought on impulse and never used more than a week.

It's a little game I play with mysef. Buy stuff and never use it. No wonder Im broke.

arun1963

TakeTheTime wrote: »

The only thing I don't like is that
the human bodies/legs are in the way...

There's no way around that. It will still sound good with the bodies and the legs.

arun1963

MacLeod wrote: »

They go in a box on the shelf with the pairs of Vifa, Morel and LPG tweets that I bought on impulse and never used more than a week.

It's a little game I play with mysef. Buy stuff and never use it. No wonder Im broke.

In a 3 way set wouldn't both mid range and tweets have to be sort of cross firing?

I'm asking cause most 3 ways I've seen here, have the woofer in the doors, the midrange mounted somewhere in the dash firing directly at driver and passenger and then the tweets on the dash or a pillars x firing. I just found the angle of the midrange odd since its carrying frequencies that are sensitive to L/R balance. I figure mounthing them more on axis would be better.

A few drivers collected over the years is not so bad. Its when you get to the point, where you can stock a shop, that you should start worrying.

MacLeod

arun1963 wrote: »

In a 3 way set wouldn't both mid range and tweets have to be sort of cross firing?

I'm asking cause most 3 ways I've seen here, have the woofer in the doors, the midrange mounted somewhere in the dash firing directly at driver and passenger and then the tweets on the dash or a pillars x firing. I just found the angle of the midrange odd since its carrying frequencies that are sensitive to L/R balance. I figure mounthing them more on axis would be better.

That all depends. Generally dash mounted mids dont work that well without a LOT of work. And in the systems Ive heard that do sound good, the tweets were mounted on the same axis and usually right next to the mid's. A friend of mine ran mids firing on axis with tweets firing off axis right next to them and it gave him fits trying to tune that setup.

My IDEAL setup would be a 2 way with a 6 mounted in the floor vented to the outside and tweeters in the sail panels. The mids mounted that far up would handle depth while the tweets in the sails would give you the width. But I aint cutting holes in my floor!

Mine will be a 2 way setup. MECA classifies competitors by their vehicle modifications so I can use stock locations and in Street class, Ill be competing against other guys using stock speaker locations.

I ran the SR5250's in 2 way back in 2007 and they worked fine. They have better midrange than the 6500's and while they wont play with authority down to 40 Hz like the 6500's, they will get down to 50 without too much problem. Im going to use a 10 SR sub this time and since it will be in an open space of my SUV instead of closed off in a trunk, Im gonna try to get it to get into the lower midbass (50-63 Hz) some without localizing. If I can get the sub to beef up the 5250's in this area, Ill have no problem getting good midbass impact without the stage being pulled to the rear any.

MacLeod

Try them at 50 but with a steep slope like 24 db/octave. They WILL play 40, but kinda sloppy so I wouldnt go below that. Cut your sub down to 50 as well and then play with bumping up 63 Hz on the sub EQ (if you have it).

TakeTheTime

I was recommended to cross at 50 too, LPF on sub with 24db/octave and HPF on the SR mids with 12db/octave...?

MacLeod

I would go steeper than 12 db on the mids. At that shallow a slope, 40 Hz is only cut by 4 db.

arun1963

DSkip wrote: »

Different environment, but with that setup in my car, I've been able to run the sub at 63 without any localizing issues. With that said, I have been noticing on some CD's that the 5250s arent pulling the bass to the front like I would want. I have them cut at 63 as well. I'm thinking that the biggest issue there is just a lack of sound deadening though.

Try playing with the delay between the sub and the sr's. . This may help in pulling the bass a bit more upfront.

DSkip wrote: »

I don't even know where my settings are at right now. I haven't driven my car but once in two weeks and it won't be getting much more drive time now that the hot weather is here and we (wife and I) carpool to work.

Oh man don't talk about hot weather. So far its been the hottest April here in the last 46 years. At this rate May and June are going to be killers. Give me cold over hot any day. So no tweaking and tuning eh?

arun1963

MacLeod wrote: »

That all depends. Generally dash mounted mids dont work that well without a LOT of work. And in the systems Ive heard that do sound good, the tweets were mounted on the same axis and usually right next to the mid's. A friend of mine ran mids firing on axis with tweets firing off axis right next to them and it gave him fits trying to tune that setup.

Yeah the mid range on axis and the tweets x firing just didn't sound cohesive.

MacLeod wrote: »

My IDEAL setup would be a 2 way with a 6 mounted in the floor vented to the outside and tweeters in the sail panels. The mids mounted that far up would handle depth while the tweets in the sails would give you the width. But I aint cutting holes in my floor!

So the 6 would vent into an enclosure mounted from the outside? Tweets in sail panels and not dash mounted or a-pillars is interesting.

MacLeod wrote: »

Mine will be a 2 way setup. MECA classifies competitors by their vehicle modifications so I can use stock locations and in Street class, Ill be competing against other guys using stock speaker locations.

The typical 3 ways split at 200-300, 2.5-4 and then the tweets are 4-5khz+. I am looking forward to your comments on the split at 200, 10khz, and tweets 10+. I think there's lots of potential there. I guess it will also depend on which tweet sounds best plying 10+. I think the RR's may have a edge over the soft domes here. I'm just guessing here.

MacLeod wrote: »

I ran the SR5250's in 2 way back in 2007 and they worked fine. They have better midrange than the 6500's and while they wont play with authority down to 40 Hz like the 6500's, they will get down to 50 without a problem. Im going to use a 10 SR sub this time and since it will be in an open space of my SUV instead of closed off in a trunk, Im gonna try to get it to get into the lower midbass (50-63 Hz) some without localizing. If I can get the sub to beef up the 5250's in this area, Ill have no problem getting good midbass impact without the stage being pulled to the rear any.

Why not go with the 6500 so that you get a bit more around 50hz? The bulk of your mid range is going to come from your Founteks in any case. Since the sub is going to be in the cabin, going from a 12 to a 10 sounds right to compensate for the higher db's you'd get (That is the logic right?). You may need to keep the cut off lowish, around 50
hz. Again, I'm just guessing.

MacLeod

The 6 won't fit without cutting and you cant cut sheet metal in the Street class.

I'm not going to use the Fountecks-I'm going to use SR5250 mids in the doors and SR tweets in either the A pillar or sail panel area.

arun1963

Good, cause I'll get to learn a lot more about handling issues of mids mounted high up.

So when does install start? Remember to take pics.

MacLeod

Probably next week. Gotta buy some Dynamat and a kit for my head unit first.

TakeTheTime

Sounds good Mac. Can't wait to see pictures with install of the beloved SR5250's!

MacLeod

Yeah I'm curious as to how It will sound. These are the worst speaker locations Ive ever seen so this will definitely be interesting. Probably gonna have to rely on the tweeters more than usual to make up for the crappy placement. Should be fun though.

TakeTheTime

Is the mounting position like mine? If so, I think it works well. The midwoofers has great off-axis response! And with the tweeters more on axis it sounds great. The tweeters does a great job...

MacLeod

No. The spot is halfway up the door and inside a little bit. Its at the end of the arm rest. Just a horrible spot.

Theoretically, if I can massage the tweeters down low enough I should be able to make up for this. Since Im in the Street class and competing against other guys with stock locations, I wont have to get the stage out over the hood to have a chance to win. However, guys with cars like Accords and Altimas that have stock locations very far forward and low in the doors will have an advantage. Hopefully I can make up for it in tonallity.