New to forum & Monitor 50 bi-wire / bi-amp ?

2»

Comments

  • BizmanJoe
    BizmanJoe Posts: 26
    edited April 2010
    Go with a higher end NAD AVR and won't have power problems, the need for outboard amps, the need for biamping, or thin/compressed sounds at high volumes levels.

    And while you're at it, add a tube buffer such as Musical Fidelity units and let us know how much better your system sounds. The older "can" variety allows you to try different tubes, whereas the v3 "box" variety is based on permanently set military grade tubes that'll supposedly last a lifetime. Not sure how good v3s sound, though. I've been meaning to jump in and try these little gizmos myself, as I've seen them pop up on eBay. I've also read the Chinese manufactured Dared tube preamplifier (audio purist had embarrassing time admitting his Dared 2500 series that he bought while his Cary tube preamp was in the shop actually sounded better than his Cary preamplifier (could this really be true????). If it really is true, I just might go Chinese... any opinions?
    Main: Klipsch KSP-400
    Cntr: Klipsch KSP-C6
    Rr/Sd Surr: Klipsch KSP-S6 (x 2)
    Rear: Klipsch KSW-150 Subwoofer
    Side Prs: Klipsch KSB 3.1
    Rear Prs: Klipsch KSB 2.1
    Frnt Prs: Klipsch SS-3
    HK Signature 2.1 (x 3)
    HK Signature 2.0
    HK DMC-1000
    Tice Power Block Sig III
    Fosgate DSL 3
    Fosgate DSL 3A
    Denon DVD 5900
    Denon DVD 2800 MkII
    ADC SS-525x
    ADC SS-325x
    DBX 400X
    NuReality Vivid 3D
    Akai GX R-88
    Pioneer PL-L1000A
    Pioneer SR-60
    Pioneer EX-9000
    Pioneer CTS-600
    Sanyo Plus N55
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited April 2010
    BizmanJoe wrote: »
    And while you're at it, add a tube buffer such as Musical Fidelity units and let us know how much better your system sounds. The older "can" variety allows you to try different tubes, whereas the v3 "box" variety is based on permanently set military grade tubes that'll supposedly last a lifetime. Not sure how good v3s sound, though. I've been meaning to jump in and try these little gizmos myself, as I've seen them pop up on eBay. I've also read the Chinese manufactured Dared tube preamplifier (audio purist had embarrassing time admitting his Dared 2500 series that he bought while his Cary tube preamp was in the shop actually sounded better than his Cary preamplifier (could this really be true????). If it really is true, I just might go Chinese... any opinions?

    I've owned the MF v3 models and they do impart nice tube warmth to a 2 channel rig even if you have a tube preamp but I've found that using a tube buffer between let's say a Denon 2900 and a tube pre is overkill. I have a tube CDP so there is no need to have a tube buffer there either. I also feel that there is no need to place a tube buffer between a turntable and a tube pre as in most cases the TT already has a warm natural sound depending on the cartridge used and placing at tube buffer again becomes overkill. I feel that the use of tube buffers have their greatist effect is you are using an all sand rig. I know Ted used and still may a tube buffer between some of his sources and a tube preamp. I don't know if he still does but I can tell you in the rig he had when I heard it it sounded spectacular.

    Gettin back to the NAD AVR recommendation. First off NAD's house sound is already on the warm tubey side. Second, where would you put the tube buffer on the AVR? Unless you are going to use the pre-outs with outboard amplification which then you would have to buy as many tube buffers as amplifiers. I think this defeats my recommendation to get an NAD AVR because I was thinking that you would need no outboard amplification to power 4 ohm loads.

    They only place to put a tube buffer using just the AVR with no outboard amplification would be on the source(s). Besides why use a tube buffer on and HT rig if it is used for strickly movies? I can see if one is going to use it for 2 channel listening but for my me I have a separate 2 channel rig (which would benefit greaty from tube buffers if you don't have tubes in your rig) and a separate HT rig which is really just used for movie sound effects and dialog.

    As far as your question about Dared vs Cary preamps, I've heard the Cary but not the Dared and would have to say it is a matter of personal preference.
  • JimKellyfan
    JimKellyfan Posts: 696
    edited April 2010
    I like Bi - amp set up, and I do hear a difference, but I would hear a greater difference if I listened and bought a real receiver. My Sony is OK, and bi - amping does make a difference, albeit slight, and when my wife is looking the other way, I will buy a better reciever.
    So, I would say, wait for bi - amping until you have the reciever that can do it.
    I also ensured to have my wires cut the same size on both sides, no matter the length needed.
    Onkyo TX-NR636
    Main - polkaudio Monitor 60's
    Center - polkaudio CSI A6
    Sub - polkaudio PSW10
    Sub2 - polkaudio PSW505
    Surrounds - polkaudio Monitor 40 series II
    Front Height - polkaudio Monitor 40's
    Audio Outdoors
    Pioneer VSX 406 - polkaudio Atrium 5
    Shed
    Sony junker str-dn2010 with Sony bookshelf floor models and polkaudio R150's
    Shed 2
    Nakamichi soundbar
  • WoodYee
    WoodYee Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    Its amazing how people post information thats absolutly incorrect. If you dont have a clue, DONT RESPOND!!!
    To the OP, yes it does make a difference when you bi-wire the Polks with your set up. I know, I did it. Most definatly, run wires from A terminals to speakers, either upper or lower terminals. Run wires from B terminals to the second set off binding posts. Observe polarity when doing this and make sure you remove the pieces of metal that link the two terminals that are installed for normal usage. Make sure A and B switches are depressed. Bingo, its a done deal and you should notice a big difference as I did when I used this method. The amp will still be outputting the stated wattage per speaker with no loss of power. In fact its astonishing how much better the speakers will sound. Now will this happen with other equipment other than what you're using or connecting using rear speaker terminals? I cant say, it may it may not I wont speculate. But with the info you provided it will indeed, I did it, I know, this is not a guess or my opinion.
  • rebuy
    rebuy Posts: 695
    edited October 2011
    Yeah, See!!! What he said. I hope this has been settled after a year.
  • nguyendot
    nguyendot Posts: 3,594
    edited October 2011
    WoodYee wrote: »
    Its amazing how people post information thats absolutly incorrect. If you dont have a clue, DONT RESPOND!!!
    To the OP, yes it does make a difference when you bi-wire the Polks with your set up. I know, I did it. Most definatly, run wires from A terminals to speakers, either upper or lower terminals. Run wires from B terminals to the second set off binding posts. Observe polarity when doing this and make sure you remove the pieces of metal that link the two terminals that are installed for normal usage. Make sure A and B switches are depressed. Bingo, its a done deal and you should notice a big difference as I did when I used this method. The amp will still be outputting the stated wattage per speaker with no loss of power. In fact its astonishing how much better the speakers will sound. Now will this happen with other equipment other than what you're using or connecting using rear speaker terminals? I cant say, it may it may not I wont speculate. But with the info you provided it will indeed, I did it, I know, this is not a guess or my opinion.

    Incorrect.
    A) this thread is over a year old.
    B) you should take your own advice.
    C) Biwiring with these speakers will give minimal increases if any. A single pair of better speaker cables will make more of a difference.
    D)You will still only get 90w/channel. Since you're 90w x 6, I bet it's in the neighborhood of 55w/channel on that Denon.
    E) It won't be night and day difference - you probably won't notice any difference at all. Even better, if you took a scope to it, you probably won't even be able to detect a difference.
    F) It's a waste of money anyways.
    Main Surround -
    Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub

    Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250

    Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD
  • decal
    decal Posts: 3,205
    edited October 2011
    I know, this is not a guess or my opinion.

    Wrong. It's only your opinion. Everyone perceives sound quality differently.
    If you can't hear a difference, don't waste your money.