Mortite Question

Des Moines
Des Moines Posts: 115
edited March 2010 in The Clubhouse
I went to Home Depot and Loews to buy Mortite and neither store carried it. HD said they carry GAP instead.

Questions
Do you guys use Mortite cord or is it like a caulk?

Is there another sealant that is equal to mortite for sealing drivers and PRs?

Do you remove the rubber gaskets from tweets and use mortite or do you just make another / better gasket to seal tweets?
HT in Progress
Receiver - Harmon Kardon AVR520 5.1
Fronts - Polk SDA 1C
Center - Polk CS350
Monitor - Sharp Aquos LCD
NMT - Mede8er500x
Cables - Signal Ultra
Post edited by Des Moines on

Comments

  • jimbo1421
    jimbo1421 Posts: 772
    edited March 2010
    5.1 System:
    TCL R613 55" 4K
    Front: SRS-3.1TL
    Center: CS400i
    Surround: Monitor 10B
    PSW10 subwoofer
    Onkyo PR-SC886P Pre/Pro
    NAD T955 5 channel power amplifier
    Technics SL-1710 MK2 turntable
    Audio-Technica AT14Sa cartridge
    Parasound P3 pre-amp
    Oppo BDP-103 Blu-Ray
    2014 MacBook Pro 2.8 GHz

    2.0 Office System:
    Monitor 10A (Peerless)
    Outlaw 1050 receiver
    Parasound HCA-1000A power amp
    MacPro
  • schwarcw
    schwarcw Posts: 7,335
    edited March 2010
    Des Moines wrote: »
    Do you guys use Mortite cord or is it like a caulk?

    I found the Mortite at Home Depot in the section with the insulation. It is a rope cord. Very inexpensive ($5), maybe check some online sources.
    Carl

  • Des Moines
    Des Moines Posts: 115
    edited March 2010
    Thanks for suggestions guys. I will check the insulation area and if I still cant find it there, I will go with Jims recommendation.

    Jim did you remove the tweet gaskets and use mortite cord on the tweeters also?
    HT in Progress
    Receiver - Harmon Kardon AVR520 5.1
    Fronts - Polk SDA 1C
    Center - Polk CS350
    Monitor - Sharp Aquos LCD
    NMT - Mede8er500x
    Cables - Signal Ultra
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited March 2010
    Des Moines wrote: »
    Thanks for suggestions guys. I will check the insulation area and if I still cant find it there, I will go with Jims recommendation.

    Jim did you remove the tweet gaskets and use mortite cord on the tweeters also?

    I wouldn't Mortite the tweets. They don't really have a wide flat edge to make the seal. The original gaskets should do just fine.
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,726
    edited March 2010
    My Home Depot didn't have it and I suspect most won't these days. They have mostly moved to rubber and foam strip type products. I found that ACE hardware sells a product that is nearly identical to Mortite. Just go in and ask for rope caulk.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • jimbo1421
    jimbo1421 Posts: 772
    edited March 2010
    Des Moines wrote: »
    Thanks for suggestions guys. I will check the insulation area and if I still cant find it there, I will go with Jims recommendation.

    Jim did you remove the tweet gaskets and use mortite cord on the tweeters also?

    Yes I did. It works fine. Just make sure it is not flattened below the lip on the edge of the tweeter (if it has one).

    Jim
    5.1 System:
    TCL R613 55" 4K
    Front: SRS-3.1TL
    Center: CS400i
    Surround: Monitor 10B
    PSW10 subwoofer
    Onkyo PR-SC886P Pre/Pro
    NAD T955 5 channel power amplifier
    Technics SL-1710 MK2 turntable
    Audio-Technica AT14Sa cartridge
    Parasound P3 pre-amp
    Oppo BDP-103 Blu-Ray
    2014 MacBook Pro 2.8 GHz

    2.0 Office System:
    Monitor 10A (Peerless)
    Outlaw 1050 receiver
    Parasound HCA-1000A power amp
    MacPro
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited March 2010
    jimbo1421 wrote: »
    Yes I did. It works fine. Just make sure it is not flattened below the lip on the edge of the tweeter (if it has one).

    Jim

    Jim, what kind of tweeters did you Mortite? I found my RD0198s not to have a large enough edge to hold sealer.
  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited March 2010
    Des Moines wrote: »
    I went to Home Depot and Loews to buy Mortite and neither store carried it. HD said they carry GAP instead.

    Mortite seems to be getting hard to find in stores. The Home Depot here stopped carrying it. It is available online from a variety of sources. Shop around as prices can vary a lot.
    Des Moines wrote: »
    Do you guys use Mortite cord or is it like a caulk?

    The box says "Mortite Weatherstrip and Caulking Cord". I sent and inquiry to Polk's customer service asking about replacement driver gaskets and Matthew Polk recommended Mortite as a higher performance alternative to foam rubber gaskets.

    There is a picture of the box in post #1 of this thread.[/QUOTE]
    Des Moines wrote: »
    Is there another sealant that is equal to mortite for sealing drivers and PRs?

    I don't know.

    If you use another sealant, take care to chose one that forms a semi-rigid seal between the driver rim and the speaker cabinet. You want a semi-rigid seal that is stiff enough to couple the driver to the cabinet, yet just elastic enough to fill in the irregularities in the cabinet where it joins the driver rim. You also want something that sticks to the driver rim and speaker cabinet, yet is easy to remove. Mortite has all these properties.
    Des Moines wrote: »
    Do you remove the rubber gaskets from tweets and use mortite or do you just make another / better gasket to seal tweets?

    I used a stacked, double bead of Mortite just inside the tweeter rim. See page 3, post #69 of this thread for a picture.
    Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
  • Des Moines
    Des Moines Posts: 115
    edited March 2010
    Thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions.

    Thanks for the thread link DK!! Very Helpful review!
    HT in Progress
    Receiver - Harmon Kardon AVR520 5.1
    Fronts - Polk SDA 1C
    Center - Polk CS350
    Monitor - Sharp Aquos LCD
    NMT - Mede8er500x
    Cables - Signal Ultra
  • kcoc321
    kcoc321 Posts: 1,788
    edited March 2010
    I have used the same MD brand that Jim linked. I think it works great but I have never seen 'real' Mortite, so I am just going off of the properties. It remains flexible, and yet forms a bond. And yes, I took off the old foam gasket, as keeping it on would defeat the purpose of the "Mortite"/ rope caulk.
  • jimbo1421
    jimbo1421 Posts: 772
    edited March 2010
    Jim, what kind of tweeters did you Mortite? I found my RD0198s not to have a large enough edge to hold sealer.

    I have done Peerless & SL-1000 which have a face plate that is flat on the inside. I flatten the cord a bit by rolling a dowel on it. On the RDO-194, unlike Darque Knight, I just used one strip of cord inside the lip and made sure that I did not compress the cord below the lip. It still passes the press test. I thought that two layers was too much of a build up and that the face plates tend to distort more easily when screwed on.

    Jim
    5.1 System:
    TCL R613 55" 4K
    Front: SRS-3.1TL
    Center: CS400i
    Surround: Monitor 10B
    PSW10 subwoofer
    Onkyo PR-SC886P Pre/Pro
    NAD T955 5 channel power amplifier
    Technics SL-1710 MK2 turntable
    Audio-Technica AT14Sa cartridge
    Parasound P3 pre-amp
    Oppo BDP-103 Blu-Ray
    2014 MacBook Pro 2.8 GHz

    2.0 Office System:
    Monitor 10A (Peerless)
    Outlaw 1050 receiver
    Parasound HCA-1000A power amp
    MacPro
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited March 2010
    Des Moines wrote: »
    Is there another sealant that is equal to mortite for sealing drivers and PRs?

    I don't know.

    If you use another sealant, take care to chose one that forms a semi-rigid seal between the driver rim and the speaker cabinet. You want a semi-rigid seal that is stiff enough to couple the driver to the cabinet, yet just elastic enough to fill in the irregularities in the cabinet where it joins the driver rim. You also want something that sticks to the driver rim and speaker cabinet, yet is easy to remove. Mortite has all these properties.

    Before DarqueKnight used Mortite and posted his "how to" thread, I used Parts Express Speaker Caulk (black) to seal my MWs, PRs and to repair a split in the seam of one of the cabinets. It works really well and is very easy to handle and apply. You can get it here;

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=269-300&ctab=13#Tabs

    Follow the instructions in DarqueKnight's thread to apply the speaker sealer.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74524
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited March 2010
    jimbo1421 wrote: »
    I have done Peerless & SL-1000 which have a face plate that is flat on the inside. I flatten the cord a bit by rolling a dowel on it. On the RDO-194, unlike Darque Knight, I just used one strip of cord inside the lip and made sure that I did not compress the cord below the lip. It still passes the press test. I thought that two layers was too much of a build up and that the face plates tend to distort more easily when screwed on.

    Jim

    Thanks Jim. I did my MWs & PRs with Parts Express Speaker Caulk before DarqueKnight's Mortite thread was posted. I had a hell of a time trying to use the PE Caulk (which is pretty much the same consistency as Mortite) on my RD0198s so I just skipped and used the original gasket. That's why I recommended not doing the tweeters. I'm glad you were able to set Des Moines straight. Good deal. I'm going to give my RD0198s another shot using your method. Thanks again.