My new audio rack....TnT FleXy Style
TonyPTX
Posts: 545
Welp after about 5 days of work, my new FleXy Rack is finished. Can't wait to put my gear in it and see what the final product will look like. Check out the link to my page dedicated to the FleXy...here
Comments?
Comments?
Damn....8 lines...I've gotta put my sig on a diet now....
Post edited by RyanC_Masimo on
Comments
-
Well done, bravo!
The addition of the the pvc 'sleeves' is pure greatness, imo. I can't tell you how LONG I spend adjusting each rod to get the freakin' thing level on all sides.
Time to build another one, I got so frustrated with the first, I just threw it in the master closet for the wife to use as a shoe-rack.
Cheers,
RussCheck your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service. -
Originally posted by RuSsMaN
The addition of the the pvc 'sleeves' is pure greatness, imo. I can't tell you how LONG I spend adjusting each rod to get the freakin' thing level on all sides.
The PVC sleeves made it almost a brainless level job. Every shelf was level with no need for adjustments right out of the box. Just ran the nut down, followed by the sleeve and another nut and washer, and shelf. Checked for level, and it was good. I can only imagine how much of a pain in the **** having no reference point would have been...Damn....8 lines...I've gotta put my sig on a diet now.... -
That thing looks great. The more I see, the more I think I'll be making my next rack myself, with Flexy.
Shep -
Looks VERY good Tony. This is the EXACT type of shelf that I had thought about constructing, but due to space limitations had to scrap. I noticed on your Parts List that you got (4) 36" threaded 5/8" rods, but your stand looks taller than 3 feet. Am I missing something? I definitely like the PVC piping to cover the threaded rods as well. Excellent finish work there.
With regard to the Moulding.......Do you feel that it was worth the time to mount and attach it vs. routering similar edges to the shelves to eliminate any possibility of the moulding coming off? Not that it would be too likely for that to happen, but I'm all about less parts = less problems. The only other thing that I thought about was the top locking nuts. I don't know if such a thing exists or not, but I wonder if there is a smoother top locking nut that wouldn't be so eye apparent there. I guess that it blends with the rest though, so nevermind that.
I agree with you on upgrading the wheels, but the only thing about waiting to do that until you HAVE a problem is that you'll have to completely un-install all your components to fix it. Why not replace them from the get-go. Just an idea.comment comment comment comment. bitchy. -
Originally posted by brettw22
I noticed on your Parts List that you got (4) 36" threaded 5/8" rods, but your stand looks taller than 3 feet. Am I missing something?
Nope. Maybe the wheels add about 3" to the overall height but the threaded rods are exactly 3'. I thought this would be short to, but some how it's like an optical illusion. Maybe it's the fact that you have a top shelf as well it makes it look taller....
Lowes does sell 6' foot rods as well if you want the ultimate rack.With regard to the Moulding.......Do you feel that it was worth the time to mount and attach it vs. routering similar edges to the shelves to eliminate any possibility of the moulding coming off? Not that it would be too likely for that to happen, but I'm all about less parts = less problems. The only other thing that I thought about was the top locking nuts. I don't know if such a thing exists or not, but I wonder if there is a smoother top locking nut that wouldn't be so eye apparent there. I guess that it blends with the rest though, so nevermind that.
I wanted to route the boards but I was faced with two problems:- I don't have a router
- If I borrowed a router from a friend, I would have had to purchase the bit.
As for the top nut, I didn't like the idea too much so I kicked a few ideas around in my head. I came up with two options:- use an acorn nut at the top which is a nut with cap that comes to a point. Still a viable option, just couldn't find any 5/8" acorn nuts at Lowes or Home Depot.
- use a 5/8" carrage bolt recessed into the top shelf and put a crome cap over the hole. Would have had to buy 4 addtional 5/8" thread couplers to connect the carrage bolt to the threaded rod. This route would have probably added another $10 to the cost.
I agree with you on upgrading the wheels, but the only thing about waiting to do that until you HAVE a problem is that you'll have to completely un-install all your components to fix it. Why not replace them from the get-go. Just an idea.
True. However, 300 lbs is a lot of gear on one rack. I didn't see a problem with going this route. I'd like to see the racks available at Wal-Mart hold this much....Damn....8 lines...I've gotta put my sig on a diet now.... -
Tony i want to know what kind of stain you used?? oil or water? when i stain i use a water based pre-stain, and the last time i used a oil based stain over it on a bedroom project and it looks all washed out still after 2 coats, the color you have is what we want for our bedroom and can't seem to get it no where near your color, Let me know some tips/tricks i can try.. Thanks in advanceMY HT RIG:
Sherwood p-965
Sherwood sd871 dvd
Rotel 1075 amp x5
LSI15 mains
LsiC center
LSIfx surround backs
Lsi7 side surrounds
SVS pb12/plus2
2 Channel Rig:
nad 1020 Pre-amp
Rotel 1080 stereo amp
Polk sda 2B
kenwood grunt Tuner
realistic lab 450 TT
Signal cable IC -
Originally posted by faster100
Tony i want to know what kind of stain you used?? oil or water? when i stain i use a water based pre-stain, and the last time i used a oil based stain over it on a bedroom project and it looks all washed out still after 2 coats, the color you have is what we want for our bedroom and can't seem to get it no where near your color, Let me know some tips/tricks i can try.. Thanks in advance
Faster,
I used a one step stain/polyurethane product from Olympic (oil based) that I bought at Lowes. You can use Minwax's Polyshades product as well. In this case it was a quart of Olympic Interior One Step Colonial Cherry Gloss Finish like the picture below. I've never had luck with the 2 or 3 step products because I inevitably screw something up. IMHO, the one step stuff looks just as good if you take your time with it. As for some pointers:- Chose your sand paper appropriately for the wood you're using. Hard woods, like oak, need to be sanded with say 100 then 150. Soft woods, like pine, need to start at 150 and finish off with 200 or finer paper.
- Always sand in the direction of the grain. If you've got an orbital sander, ditch it and go with a belt sander or do it by hand like I did, old school fashion.
- The first coat always looks like crap. Accept it. Just don't try to lay it on thick and make it worse. If it's not as dark as you like, put another coat on.
- If you're going to do the 2 step stain-polyurethane process, be sure to use the proper pre-stain conditioner so that it whips the wood into shape and forces it to absorb the stain.
- Sand lightly between coats. As before sand in the direction of the wood grain. Use steel wool or a fine grit sand paper > 300.
- As simple as it sounds, read the directions on the can. If the temperature conditions just aren't right or the humidity is too high, forget about it. Don't force the product if you can't control the environment. You won't be happy with the finish.
Like I said before, I like the one step stuff because I can get an even coat of the product on the working surface and not have to worry about if the wood will absorb the stain. The stain is suspended in the polyurethane and I'm guaranteed a good finish.
Hope this helps.
Anthony
Damn....8 lines...I've gotta put my sig on a diet now.... -
That't great Tony, i love doing woodwork and never can seem to get the stain down pat, Thanks alot for the tips, i will also try the stuff you mentioned. So no pre stain is needed?? right.. Also that would explain why the stain was getting pulled into my projects, i would pre-stain and stain with no top coat of poly, i didn't want the shine for that project, but i guess they have the low luster poly also, Thanks againMY HT RIG:
Sherwood p-965
Sherwood sd871 dvd
Rotel 1075 amp x5
LSI15 mains
LsiC center
LSIfx surround backs
Lsi7 side surrounds
SVS pb12/plus2
2 Channel Rig:
nad 1020 Pre-amp
Rotel 1080 stereo amp
Polk sda 2B
kenwood grunt Tuner
realistic lab 450 TT
Signal cable IC -
Mantis, Eat Your Heart Out :cool:
Damn....8 lines...I've gotta put my sig on a diet now.... -
Originally posted by faster100
So no pre stain is needed?? right.. Also that would explain why the stain was getting pulled into my projects, i would pre-stain and stain with no top coat of poly, i didn't want the shine for that project, but i guess they have the low luster poly also, Thanks again
Roger, with the one-step stuff, you don't need to use any pre-stain product. As for the gloss, the one-step stuff had the choice of glossy or satin finish. I like shinny stuff
Damn....8 lines...I've gotta put my sig on a diet now.... -
Tony, awesome! very nice, and your first impression of the signal cable interconnect is: (fill in the blank)
btw, how come you are the only one that can post pics??? I know gshisme is about to go bonker on this...
Dan, where is the WM Certificate, we have a winner!I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie. -
Originally posted by polkatese
Tony, awesome! very nice, and your first impression of the signal cable interconnect is: (fill in the blank)
btw, how come you are the only one that can post pics??? I know gshisme is about to go bonker on this...
(fill in the blank) will remain as such. I reverted back to the old Rat Shack IC for the time being since I just upgraded the speaker wire to IXOS and am trying to get them burnt in and me adjusted to the new sound before I rate the Analog Twos. You can't have a valid expriment if you change more than one variable at a time....
As for the pics, I'm not using the Attach file: feature that is busted apparently. All my picts are hosted on my web site, with a link here so that it shows up.Damn....8 lines...I've gotta put my sig on a diet now.... -
TonyPTX
I gotta admit,you did a hell of a job.Very nice man.That rack is beautiful.
You get the WM Certificate.......
I'll go further and give it a full name.....
I mantis honor this install by TonyPTX
He put in the time to understand the importance of wire management.He showed leadership and genuine leadership here.
Signed........MANTIS date.......5/11/03Dan
My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time. -
Whahahahah.....
I, TonyPTX, honorably accept this certificate. Let it be known to all peasants through-out the kingdom.....I'm marking down this date on my calendar with a big golden star.
Honestly, my rack always starts this way, it's just that it never stays that way with all the wire changes and upgrades and swapping of gear.Damn....8 lines...I've gotta put my sig on a diet now.... -
Very nice job TonyPTX. The PVC spacers address the only thing I didn't like about the flexy rack design (thread rod). I'll have to keep that in mind for the next rack I build.
Thanks for sharing.
DaveTime is the best teacher. Unfortunately it kills all its students. -
Cool, Tony...will wait for your review...
So, is this official then, that Tony can have the Wm.C behind his name, professor?I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie.
