Fuses and expensive speaker wires?

lanchile
lanchile Posts: 560
edited February 2010 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Hello, I have seen many people using really expensive speaker wires with their amps but, what I do not understand is if their amps use fuses in the output...you know these small, glass cylinder with a "thin" wire inside that we called fuses and protect speakers (not from dc voltage lol). Why spend so much money in thick oxygen free with lunar material speaker wires. since before the speakers terminals of the amp exist these thin wire in the output signal? I have build many diy amps and I have never used fuses for the speaker output just on the power transformer primaries (hot,cold).How many speakers have I burned or blow so far? NONE!!!
you are most likely to burn your speakers with low power amps than with more powerful amps.Why? because you have to push your amp more and put it to the clipping.and then your speakers will suffer the consequences.My diy amps do not uses fuses or relay on the output. am I afraid to burn my speakers? NO!!! and if I ever do.I will get new ones.Remember Nothing last for ever!.:eek:
Make it simple...Make it better!
Post edited by lanchile on

Comments

  • halo71
    halo71 Posts: 4,604
    edited February 2010
    lanchile wrote: »
    Hello, I have seen many people using really expensive speaker wires with their amps but, what I do not understand is if their amps use fuses in the output...you know these small, glass cylinder with a "thin" wire inside that we called fuses and protect speakers (not from dc voltage lol). Why spend so much money in thick oxygen free with lunar material speaker wires.

    Sounds like you are trying to associate apples with oranges. What does the fuse have to do with using quality or expensive speaker wires between the amp and speakers? :confused: Serves two different purposes right?
    --Gary--
    Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out.
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited February 2010
    lanchile wrote: »
    Hello, I have seen many people using really expensive speaker wires with their amps but, what I do not understand is if their amps use fuses in the output...you know these small, glass cylinder with a "thin" wire inside that we called fuses and protect speakers (not from dc voltage lol). Why spend so much money in thick oxygen free with lunar material speaker wires.



    Because they work.

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • lanchile
    lanchile Posts: 560
    edited February 2010
    halo71 wrote: »
    Sounds like you are trying to associate apples with oranges. What does the fuse have to do with using quality or expensive speaker wires between the amp and speakers? :confused:

    Because some people spend hundreds on speakers wires and they do not know that before that EXPENSIVE speaker wire there is a thin wire called fuse!. it is like I wear tuxedo with sneakers.
    Make it simple...Make it better!
  • halo71
    halo71 Posts: 4,604
    edited February 2010
    I am not following you, you think using a better fuse negates quality wires?:confused:
    --Gary--
    Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out.
  • lanchile
    lanchile Posts: 560
    edited February 2010
    disneyjoe7 wrote: »
    Because they work.

    They work of course! But why spend so much money in Thick speaker wires since before there is a thin wire?. my point is if your amp uses fuses just use regular speaker wires. there is no point to spend so much money in speaker wires!.
    Make it simple...Make it better!
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,303
    edited February 2010
    I smell troll ****..
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
  • lanchile
    lanchile Posts: 560
    edited February 2010
    halo71 wrote: »
    I am not following you, you think using a better fuse negates quality wires?:confused:

    well if you open your amp you most probably will see fuses in the output and then you have a thick spensive speaker wire?
    You do not get it right?:confused:
    Make it simple...Make it better!
  • lanchile
    lanchile Posts: 560
    edited February 2010
    I smell troll ****..

    Brush your teeth lol;)
    Make it simple...Make it better!
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited February 2010
    Most better amps I seen aren't fused on the output anyway, if fused at all I find them on the B voltage rails.

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,303
    edited February 2010
    lanchile wrote: »
    Brush your teeth lol;)

    You just proved my point,You have a lot to learn little man.

    I forsee a short life span for you at CP.
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited February 2010
    yawn.......
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited February 2010
    Thats why I open all my amps and put a nice shiney penny in place of all fuses.... I suggest you do the same Lanchile.

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited February 2010
    McLoki wrote: »
    Thats why I open all my amps and put a nice shiney penny in place of all fuses.... I suggest you do the same Lanchile.

    Michael

    or a .22 cartridge
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited February 2010
    zarrdoss wrote: »
    or a .22 cartridge

    A great idea - that way it could notify you of overheating as well..... :)
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,200
    edited February 2010
    lanchile wrote: »
    Hello, I have seen many people using really expensive speaker wires with their amps but, what I do not understand is if their amps use fuses in the output...you know these small, glass cylinder with a "thin" wire inside that we called fuses and protect speakers (not from dc voltage lol). Why spend so much money in thick oxygen free with lunar material speaker wires. since before the speakers terminals of the amp exist these thin wire in the output signal? I have build many diy amps and I have never used fuses for the speaker output just on the power transformer primaries (hot,cold).How many speakers have I burned or blow so far? NONE!!!
    you are most likely to burn your speakers with low power amps than with more powerful amps.Why? because you have to push your amp more and put it to the clipping.and then your speakers will suffer the consequences.My diy amps do not uses fuses or relay on the output. am I afraid to burn my speakers? NO!!! and if I ever do.I will get new ones.Remember Nothing last for ever!.:eek:

    I don't see the need for this type of thread. Try re wording it to get your point across. Wire is expensive only in the eyes of one buying it. Using the correct gauge and length for the given load is what it's about. If someone wants higher quality fancy wire, more power to them. I could care less.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited February 2010
    I think there maybe a better way to use the 22 ;)

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • halo71
    halo71 Posts: 4,604
    edited February 2010
    lanchile wrote: »
    well if you open your amp you most probably will see fuses in the output and then you have a thick spensive speaker wire?
    You do not get it right?:confused:

    Nah, I get it. I just don't think you do. I see this thread is already going south. Just like every other speaker wire thread on this forum does.
    --Gary--
    Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out.
  • lanchile
    lanchile Posts: 560
    edited February 2010
    McLoki wrote: »
    Thats why I open all my amps and put a nice shiney penny in place of all fuses.... I suggest you do the same Lanchile.

    Michael

    Lol, my diy amps do not use fuses, and again I do not say fuses are bad but, check a fuse ($1.50) and you will see a thin wire inside the cylinder and then people put it in series with a $1000 speaker wire....hehehehehehe My point is if your amp uses fuses in the outputs just get regular speakers wires.
    Make it simple...Make it better!
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,200
    edited February 2010
    lanchile wrote: »
    Lol, my diy amps do not use fuses, and again I do not say fuses are bad but, check a fuse ($1.50) and you will see a thin wire inside the cylinder and then people put it in series with a $1000 speaker wire....hehehehehehe My point is if your amp uses fuses in the outputs just get regular speakers wires.

    My man define regular speaker wire so the rest of us understand what your point is.

    Do you have any idea what you are talking about?
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited February 2010
    lanchile wrote: »
    Lol, my diy amps do not use fuses, and again I do not say fuses are bad but, check a fuse ($1.50) and you will see a thin wire inside the cylinder and then people put it in series with a $1000 speaker wire....hehehehehehe My point is if your amp uses fuses in the outputs just get regular speakers wires.

    Rather than trying to understand it - just get some decent wires (MIT, Signal Cable, Audioquest, etc.) and compare them to cheaper wires (Wal-Mart, Home Depot, etc.).

    If you do not notice a difference - save your money. If you do - head on down the rabbit hole.....

    Debate over (well, for me anyway).

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • lanchile
    lanchile Posts: 560
    edited February 2010
    McLoki wrote: »
    Rather than trying to understand it - just get some decent wires (MIT, Signal Cable, Audioquest, etc.) and compare them to cheaper wires (Wal-Mart, Home Depot, etc.).

    If you do not notice a difference - save your money. If you do - head on down the rabbit hole.....

    Debate over (well, for me anyway).

    Michael

    lol. as I can see here just one person understand what I am trying to say and it is not you! I am not comparing speakers wire here. I am just saying if you get a $1000 speaker cable just find a fuse with gold filament to compensate the quality of signal. fuse in series with speaker wires.
    Make it simple...Make it better!
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited February 2010
    Do some research, make your own decision and live a happy life.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
This discussion has been closed.