Questions on CV Joints and Suspension

DaveHo

If you don't replace the hub, I would consider replacing the wheel studs. Should be cheap & fairly easy to pound the old ones out.

-Dave

Serendipity

Audiobliss -

When you get the control arm fixed, lift up the car and grab the tire from the top and bottom and try to wiggle it as if you were pushing one end in and the other out. If it moves, that could indicate the ball joint is bad. If not, then it should be good.

joeparaski

Serendipity wrote: »

Just another note... what year is your Mazda3? In the picture it looks like a 2005 or so but I'm not sure.

If it is indeed a 5 year old with say, 60-80k miles, you should replace the wheel bearing anyways for safety. I did at 72k and the mechanic said it's a good idea to do this so I went with it.

Wow Serendipity...It seems that you are an easy sell. Replacing bearings at 72K just because *"it`s a good idea" is NOT a good idea. I would never ever suggest that a customer replace the bearings if the bearings are ok, regardless of mileage. A timing belt yes...bearing?... No Way!

Joe

Serendipity

joeparaski wrote: »

Wow Serendipity...It seems that you are an easy sell. Replacing bearings at 72K just because *"it`s a good idea" is NOT a good idea. I would never ever suggest that a customer replace the bearings if the bearings are ok, regardless of mileage. A timing belt yes...bearing?... No Way!

Joe

Well, you've gotta keep in mind that NYC roads are lousy... especially in Brooklyn where potholes are more like sink holes. I had a leaking strut at around the same time too, so it's definitely due to road conditions.

joeparaski

I visit NYC every year, and the roads are the same here in Montreal. The thing is, even a new bearing can crap out in a very short time. It's one of those "replace when necessary" components. When the bearing is giving out there are signs, particularly, noise from the wheel. It's not like the wheel is about to fall off and there is no danger involved.

Joe

audiobliss

Thanks for all the additional comments!

My pads and rotors are actually all good; they've recently been addressed.

I'll check into the wheel studs.

Serendipity - Thanks for the tip on how to check the ball joint!

concealer404

audiobliss wrote: »

Thanks for all the additional comments!

My pads and rotors are actually all good; they've recently been addressed.

I'll check into the wheel studs.

Serendipity - Thanks for the tip on how to check the ball joint!

Keep in mind that if there's play when you do that "test," there may be more issues at hand than just the ball joint. Tie rods are brought to mind, as well as disintegrated bushings. Though if you're going to replace the control arm, bushings shouldn't be an issue.

My ball joints are fine on the MX6, but the wheel will jiggle back and forth a little bit. Needs the outer tie rods replaced.

Serendipity

concealer404 wrote: »

Keep in mind that if there's play when you do that "test," there may be more issues at hand than just the ball joint. Tie rods are brought to mind, as well as disintegrated bushings. Though if you're going to replace the control arm, bushings shouldn't be an issue.

+1

If he's going to take it somewhere and get it diagnosed, then they should be able to tell him what's wrong.

audiobliss

Thanks so much, guys! There's currently about 5 or 6 inches of snow outside, and it's supposed to stay there for a few days, so it'll be a while before I make any more progress on it. But I suppose I don't actually have to (or even can) do anything to it before I get a control arm and a new wheel. I'll be searching around for both of those.