Need feedback for my idea.

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Comments

  • Se7eN
    Se7eN Posts: 21
    edited January 2010
    That might have happened, I'm not sure. Sometimes I can hear my speakers hitting the 'punch' sound of a bass note. I have my subs playing everything from 80Hz down, and the KS400's can go as low as 60Hz.

    What do you mean by 'dirty signal'?

    EDIT: If my speaker does happen to be blown and needs to be replaced, could these Pioneer Premier speakers face the same problem that the KS400s did?
    http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_130TSD402P/Pioneer-Premier-TS-D402P.html?tp=102

    I talked with my friend about modifying the speaker brackets to fit new ones, and he said the depth of most 5 1/4" and 6 1/2" speakers wouldn't fit and they would block my window from rolling down.
  • Se7eN
    Se7eN Posts: 21
    edited January 2010
    So it's possible that my deck could have fried the speaker due to a bad signal since I was playing it at outsite of it's little 14w RMS?

    My problem is that I have no idea what depth will fit into my door. I'm not sure what procedure to take in measuring that. Also, the speakers in my door seem to be mounted a little higher than the actual grill on the door. So if I place a bracket in there, it seems as if it would mount off center..

    The Crutchfield fit guide says that the 651s wont fit in my car, which includes the rear dash. What's up with that?
  • Phillips
    Phillips Posts: 40
    edited January 2010
    "Dirty power" doesn't blow speakers. The cleanest signal still has some amount of noise, that's just how electricity is. Clipping, over-driving past the mechanical limit, and over-heating the voice coil will. Your head-unit, using the internal amplifier and not the pre-out RCA's, will likely clip at anything past 60-70% I would guess. The pre-out RCA's probably will not clip until 85% or higher, and some head-units don't clip at all on the pre-amp stage. It is very easy to blow a speaker using a head-unit's internal amplifier. If you are running the 4" speakers down to 60hz, it is possible that you forced the speaker to move further than it was designed, all though you would have had some serious noise coming from the speaker well in advance. When you hear any sort of distortion in your sound, do you back off the volume immediately? If not, that's a problem. If you push on the speaker cone of the speaker that is blown, will it move? If it moves, do you feel it resisting like something is scraping? If so, you blew the voice-coil. If you want loud, buy an amplifier before you blow anymore speakers. Otherwise, keep your hand off the volume button!! ;)

    The depth of your door can be easily modified, if the door panel will allow for it. A few quick cuts on a 3/4" piece of MDF to make a speaker bracket will give you 3/4" more depth to mount a larger speaker. A quality 5 1/4" speaker will sound ALOT better than a 4" speaker. (especially if you go with a component set)

    I highly recommend you save up and buy some decent equipment and not just buy something cheap to suit your need for music. You need a good set of front speakers and an amplifier. Personally I don't run rear speakers at all except my sub in the trunk.

    I think I hit all your problems, but sorry if I missed any.


    Edit: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=238964 -- Check out that thread to see how someone installed a much larger speaker in your car.
    polkaudio | the speaker specialists

    Eclipse AVN6620
    Polk SR5250 (passive, 200w x 2)
    Polk SR104 DVC (series, 400w x 1)
    Earthquake 900w.5 (weak link - need upgrade)
    Rockford Fosgate Wiring & Accessories
  • Se7eN
    Se7eN Posts: 21
    edited January 2010
    Well I never played anything lower than 80Hz on the front speakers because that's what my subs were for. Then again, I didn't have a crossover cap to filter anything.. or at least I don't think I did. I'm convinced that the deck did that.

    The strange thing is that I never ONCE played the speakers to the point of distortion. I've been extremely OCD about my system because I put a lot of money into it and never fully researched it. Only lately have I been buying books and talking in online forums to other people for advice and help.

    I don't really see how my door panel would fit a bigger speaker, but then again I'm just assuming. When the weather clears up around here I'm going to check out the speaker and see if the cone feels funny and check out if I could modify the mount size.

    EDIT: On the forum post, gold94corolla uses 5.25" speakers to fit in the door with 'no modding necessary', while Kiwi-Corolla has a Japanese import with stock 6.5" speaker mounts to begin with. So are you suggesting I just buy a 5.25" speaker pair and slap them in my doors?
  • Phillips
    Phillips Posts: 40
    edited January 2010
    If the 5 1/4" speakers will fit, DO IT. You have a lot of mid-bass and clarity to gain and nothing I can think of to lose. Make sure you seal up the door well and triple check that you seal the speaker to the door. The front wave coming off the front of the cone should be isolated from the rear wave coming off the rear of the cone. This will give you a punchy woofer and will blend very well with your subs in the back. What this will do, with proper gain settings/volume/fading, is bring all that bass up to the front of the car (to your ears at least ;) ). Then it won't sound like all the bass is in the rear of the car. :) Trust me, it will sound so much sweeter.
    polkaudio | the speaker specialists

    Eclipse AVN6620
    Polk SR5250 (passive, 200w x 2)
    Polk SR104 DVC (series, 400w x 1)
    Earthquake 900w.5 (weak link - need upgrade)
    Rockford Fosgate Wiring & Accessories
  • Se7eN
    Se7eN Posts: 21
    edited January 2010
    I really like this idea but I don't want to put the money into it right now. I think I'm going to be saving up for a new car (used, within at most 10k), and once I have my car picked out I'm going to do some insane audio setup in it. :)

    For example, I was going to ask if it is possible to buy two of these JL subs (http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_13613W3V32/JL-Audio-13W3v3-2.html?showAll=N&tp=111) and with both of their single (2 ohm) voice coils, wire them in parallel to get a 1 ohm mono load? If that's possible, then I will be able to use my current Polk PA1200.1 amp to power them with both of the subs' RMS at 1,200 watts, seeing as the amp can power 1,200 watts stable at 1 ohm.
  • Phillips
    Phillips Posts: 40
    edited January 2010
    Alright that's it, you have us help you through an entire car and now you're not even going to have the car anymore. NO MORE HELP FOR YOU!!! :D

    Yes it is possible, and would be the most effective way to run your Polk PA1200.1 amplifier. The one-ohm load is perfect. The JL W3 sub-woofer has a max RMS rating of 600 watts. The 1200.1 puts out 1200 watts into a 1-ohm load. Sounds like a good setup to me. Your two woofers will share the 1200 watts from a single channel.
    polkaudio | the speaker specialists

    Eclipse AVN6620
    Polk SR5250 (passive, 200w x 2)
    Polk SR104 DVC (series, 400w x 1)
    Earthquake 900w.5 (weak link - need upgrade)
    Rockford Fosgate Wiring & Accessories
  • Se7eN
    Se7eN Posts: 21
    edited January 2010
    Haha I'm sorry. This is all a learning experience for me. I've seriously learned a lot from my first car here and all the help you've given me. I want to take it to the next step by buying a better overall car to put an even better sound system in that one! :D

    Well I'm considering putting better speakers in my current car's front doors so I can sell it. I was thinking that hopefully I could find speakers that can handle my current speaker amp (which is an Orion Cobalt, can't remember the numbers after it..) in my car that's currently for my rear dash db6501s. Then I could just rewire that amp to the doors and wire the rear speakers to the deck. Then I could sell the subs alone to someone else and salvage the sub amp for my new system. With the re-tuned system, I can sell the car with a stable working system. Only catch is that there will be useless dynamat mounted in the trunk and rear dash, along with illegal tinted windows.. ****!
  • Phillips
    Phillips Posts: 40
    edited January 2010
    Good luck to you. When you're ready with the new car to put in a system worthy to your ears, let us know!
    polkaudio | the speaker specialists

    Eclipse AVN6620
    Polk SR5250 (passive, 200w x 2)
    Polk SR104 DVC (series, 400w x 1)
    Earthquake 900w.5 (weak link - need upgrade)
    Rockford Fosgate Wiring & Accessories
  • Se7eN
    Se7eN Posts: 21
    edited January 2010
    I shall! And when I'm designing the new system, I'll definitely pass it through you first, Phillips. I will send you a PM through this forum if you'd like. :)

    Do you have any ideas on what kind of car I should get? A fast coupe would be nice, because those always have good front door speaker mounts.
  • Phillips
    Phillips Posts: 40
    edited January 2010
    I would suggest that you post a new thread for that system when the time arrives. First, because it allows other beginners to read and learn. Second, and equally important, is that there are others here that I'm sure have more knowledge than I. A second, third, tenth opinion is always welcome as we all see things from a different perspective.

    Personally I would not buy a car based on speakers and/or speaker location. Plenty of car forums out there that would be a better place to ask that question.
    polkaudio | the speaker specialists

    Eclipse AVN6620
    Polk SR5250 (passive, 200w x 2)
    Polk SR104 DVC (series, 400w x 1)
    Earthquake 900w.5 (weak link - need upgrade)
    Rockford Fosgate Wiring & Accessories
  • Se7eN
    Se7eN Posts: 21
    edited January 2010
    I was planning on starting a new thread in the way future, but I'm not sure if I would start it here or somewhere else. I feel like this forum doesn't have very many active users, but I may be wrong.

    Well I was thinking of finding a nice coupe with a hatchback. Not just because of the audio setup, but also because those cars look pretty nice (to me).
  • Se7eN
    Se7eN Posts: 21
    edited January 2010
    I already have takers, actually. One of my good friends is interested, and also a guy at my work.