Breaking in my first SACD Player
Comments
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Update: ****, now it sounds too bright! I hate bright sounding. Maybe I should keep the Bada.... or try something else.... So I switch the PNF's back in and took out the DH Labs. Now I'm not sure which sounds better. Maybe the DH Labs are just a bright IC and the system just exposed that...
Obviously, still haven't got it dialed in yet. -
I sent an e-mail to Dan Wright of Modwright and asked if he could recommend some different tubes to role into my preamp to help. No help, he said I'm already using the right ones: NOS Tung sols and NOS Sylvania's for the rectifier. I also asked about mods he could do to the Sony and he said that he can't offer ANY mods right now for the unit as they are still finalizing things.
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Can anyone recommend some IC's that can help mellow out the top end a tad? I think the DH Labs Air Matrix that I'm using is too detailed and the PNF don't have good synergy with the Sony.
I'll start out with 1 pair used, 1 meter long and I'm willing to pay $100-$300 for it.
I've always wanted to try some MIT's, maybe the timing is right to try them. On Audiogon there are some Shotgun S3 for $329. Any idea how this would sound? -
Are you having issues with CDs, SACDs, or both? I found the CDs to be brighter than I like, but SACD sounded fine. For CDs, I just play them through the DAC, which I think sounds a bit better.Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
i know i'll probably get flamed for saying this.. but to me.. a lot of Sony players tend to be on the bright side. at least that has been my experience with Sony CDP's. i'm not saying to bright... but brighter than other players.
I think you are on the right trail though.. keep trying out different IC's. to find the right one.PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin: -
Sylvania Gold brand GB-5687's are smoother and warmer than the Tungsols in a ModWright pre/source. My bud Norm preferred them in his SWL 9.0 while using Bendix/MU6900's in his 9100. The 6900's can be too detailed and analytical sounding for some folks. The GB's are available with Gold or steel pins, with the Gold pins fetching a few dollars more. They can be had for ~$50-$75 a pair.
I like the '50's/'60's Raytheon 5687's in my SWL9.0. Currently have the Sylvania GB's in my ModWright 9100.
Did you want to try a double O getter Mullard 5AR4? I think I have one or two laying around. IIRC they are the third version before shifting to the single O getter design.
IMO, Sylvania GB's are the closest you'll get to a 'tubier' sound in a ModWright.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
I just emailed Joe Abrams at Equus Audio to see if he could help with some MIT's IC recommendations.
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PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin: -
SCompRacer wrote: »Sylvania Gold brand GB-5687's are smoother and warmer than the Tungsols in a ModWright pre/source. My bud Norm preferred them in his SWL 9.0 while using Bendix/MU6900's in his 9100. The 6900's can be too detailed and analytical sounding for some folks. The GB's are available with Gold or steel pins, with the Gold pins fetching a few dollars more. They can be had for ~$50-$75 a pair.
I like the '50's/'60's Raytheon 5687's in my SWL9.0. Currently have the Sylvania GB's in my ModWright 9100.
Did you want to try a double O getter Mullard 5AR4? I think I have one or two laying around. IIRC they are the third version before shifting to the single O getter design.
IMO, Sylvania GB's are the closest you'll get to a 'tubier' sound in a ModWright.
Thanks- I think I'll try both the Sylvania GB's (there's a pair on Audiogon) and the Mullard 5AR4. Shoot me a PM with the price. -
have you put the bada back in? how does it compare to the sony in sound? keep the dh labs in first then compare both with the pnf's.Amplifiers: Norma IPA 140, MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800
Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
Dac: Sonnet Morpheus 2, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
Transport: Jay's Audio CDT2 mk2, Lumin U1 mini
Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
Speaker Cables: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2, Organic Audio Organic Reference 2
Interconnects: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2, Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2
Power Cables: Argento Organic Reference, Synergistic Research Foundation 10 and 12 ga.
Digital cables: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2 bnc, Tellurium Q aes, Silnote Audio Poseidon Signature 2 bnc
Puritan PSM156 -
Just out of curiousity, did you change/upgrade the caps in the Bada before? Or is everything original except for the tube? (I plan to upgrade the caps in April when my warranty expires).
As a fellow Bada owner (though I think you have the previous version, the 22 not the 22 SE if I'm not mistaken) I 'm glad to see that it is holding its own quite well against the Sony...that said, I do hope you get things configured correctly with the Sony as that is your newer piece of gear and the one you are excited about.
I'll repeat what others have said ad nauseum in other places: you simply can't go wrong with MIT S-3 ICs. Amazingly versatile...they'll make any combo you have sound fuller and richer, while giving you detail without the harshness/brightness that typically goes with a forward sound.
As others have said, if you order more than one pair Joe may be able to give you a deal (esp. if you order matching speaker wires). If you can be a little patient (I know its hard right now) you may be able to find some better deals that crop on the 'gon. I've bought 4 pair of S-3 ICs-- 3 for $200 and 1 for $280 (from 3 different sellers) -- and they were all in essentially "like new" condition.
Keep us posted.2 Ch.
Parasound Halo A23 Amp
Parasound Halo P3 Preamp
Parasound Halo T3 Tuner
Bada HD22SE tube CD Player
Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth
Magnum Dynalab ST-2 antenna
polkaudio Lsi9s (upgraded cross-overs)
MIT Shotgun S-3 Bi-wire Interface Speaker Cables
MIT Shotgun S-3 Interconnects (3)
IegO L70530 Power cords (3)
HT
Denon 2808ci AVR
polkaudio RTi A5s (fronts)
polkaudio RTi A1s (rears)
polkaudio Csi A6 (center)
Signal Cable Ultra Speaker Cables
Signal Cable Analog II Interconnects -
have you put the bada back in? how does it compare to the sony in sound? keep the dh labs in first then compare both with the pnf's.
Yes, I've got both sources hooked up to my preamp right now.
How does they compare? The Bada plays at a louder volume than the Sony, which makes it difficult to compare because my brain tells me louder is better. So, I'm trying to compensate by giving the Sony a little more volume when I compare. Overall, the Sony is more detailed than the Bada, maybe too detailed at times. I'd say it also depends on what IC's I'm using too. With the PNF's on the Bada vs. PNF's on the Sony, I think the Bada sounds better because the Sony goes a little flat with the PNF's. Now with DH Lab IC in both, the Sony is improved but still a tad bright on some cd's/passages and the Bada just sounds great no matter what IC's are in there.
I keep flip flopping about which I like better.... These comparisons are being done with CD's only to keep things on the same playing field. -
Norm Apter wrote: »Just out of curiousity, did you change/upgrade the caps in the Bada before? Or is everything original except for the tube? (I plan to upgrade the caps in April when my warranty expires).
As a fellow Bada owner (though I think you have the previous version, the 22 not the 22 SE if I'm not mistaken) I 'm glad to see that it is holding its own quite well against the Sony...that said, I do hope you get things configured correctly with the Sony as that is your newer piece of gear and the one you are excited about.
I'll repeat what others have said ad nauseum in other places: you simply can't go wrong with MIT S-3 ICs. Amazingly versatile...they'll make any combo you have sound fuller and richer, while giving you detail without the harshness/brightness that typically goes with a forward sound.
As others have said, if you order more than one pair Joe may be able to give you a deal (esp. if you order matching speaker wires). If you can be a little patient (I know its hard right now) you may be able to find some better deals that crop on the 'gon. I've bought 4 pair of S-3 ICs-- 3 for $200 and 1 for $280 (from 3 different sellers) -- and they were all in essentially "like new" condition.
Keep us posted.
Norm- No, I haven't upgraded anything on the Bada- it's stock except for the tube.
I'm going to try some different tubes in my Preamp and perhaps these MIT S-3's IC's. You got a great price. This seems like a perfect reason to upgrade IC's. See how easily I can justify another upgrade.
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I think part of the issue here is having 2 really different approaches for a source. One is a solid state very detailed player and the other a warm/smooth tube player. Both have their strengths.
I hate having to choose one because I love the detail but also love the smooth warmth too! Is it too much to ask to have both characteristics in one player? -
Ok, I finally figured it out.....
The smooth sounding tube CDP is a better fit for my rig than the Sony. It's as simple as that.
I'm keeping the Bada and posted the Sony on Audiogon for sale. -
danger boy wrote: »i know i'll probably get flamed for saying this.. but to me.. a lot of Sony players tend to be on the bright side. at least that has been my experience with Sony CDP's. i'm not saying to bright... but brighter than other players.
I think you are on the right trail though.. keep trying out different IC's. to find the right one.
I'll say it... TOO BRIGHT! The Sony players I have heard have a thin sound to them. I haven't heard this particular player but I would like to. It gets good press.
I have found brightness hard to tame with cable. Darkness is a bit easier as you can find cables (silver) that seem to brighten things up a bit. YMMV...-Kevin
HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
2 Channel:
Oppo BDP-83 SE
Squeezebox Touch
Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
VTL 2.5
McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
B&W 801's
Transparent IC's -
Are you paying big $ for the Mullard 5AR4? Make sure you can exchange or return it IF it doesn't work out in your system.
I've used Mullard 5AR4 for years in a tube amp and it really increased my HF extension. But overall, the sound was more balanced from top to bottom with greater LF extension as well. This may accentuate the brightness you're hearing if the source of it is from the cdp. But it is definitely worth a try because it will add more warmth and body. -
Ok, I finally figured it out.....
The smooth sounding tube CDP is a better fit for my rig than the Sony. It's as simple as that.
I'm keeping the Bada and posted the Sony on Audiogon for sale.
that's cool.. it's great that you were able to compare the Sony in your home with your set up to find out which sounded better. That's not always possible of course.. but sounds like you tried different IC's to find a good match.
It's not to say that the Sony is to bright. just not a good fit with the rest of your gear. that's what makes this audio hobby so much fun. finding the right gear that makes you happy.PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin: -
Waaa, forget my prev post. I missed the part where he said the Sony is being sold.
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danger boy wrote: »that's cool.. it's great that you were able to compare the Sony in your home with your set up to find out which sounded better. That's not always possible of course.. but sounds like you tried different IC's to find a good match.
It's not to say that the Sony is to bright. just not a good fit with the rest of your gear. that's what makes this audio hobby so much fun. finding the right gear that makes you happy.
Yep, tried rolling different tubes and different IC's (I was never able to get my hands on any MIT's) and still couldn't get it to sound the way I like. It was an fun journey. It is looking like I'll be selling the Sony for what I paid, so nothing lost.
