need a tweeter
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<iframe title ="Preview" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" frameborder="0" style="width:122px;height:137px;padding:0;background-color:#fcfcfc;" src="http://cid-3308f56311946f88.skydrive.live.com/embedalbum.aspx/Crossover^350239"></iframe>
here is the drivers and crossover fronm the speaker with the bad tweeter -
pic no show. try the advanced post menu with the 'upload pic' feature
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leftyfarmer wrote: »
the pictures are too blurry to read, but the white rectangulars are resistors, the small silver cylinder is the LF cap, the roll of copper wire with the black tape is the HP inductor and the large blue cylinder is the HF capisitor.
overall picture of the 'bad' xover, which I think is the 10a version, as it has the 6/77 date.
we also need a picture of the other xover as well -
I just noticed the electrical tape on the speaker leads. Please tell me they are not spliced...
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yes that is a splice
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leftyfarmer wrote: »yes that is a splice
Ouch. Gotta get rid of those. They are not to the tweeters, by chance?
open them up and see if they both are at least soldered. That maybe your problem right there. -
Here is the picture of the other "Mon 10 Series II" Xover. Based on having 2-2.7ohm resistors (one is hiding under the bypass cap) This looks exactly like the "JC Revision" Xover (I linked it above)
You definitely have two totally different Xovers.
Now I guess the next step is to chose which tweeter you are going for. Either try and find (2) "Polk Peerless" OR order (2) RDO-198's from Polk ($50ea +/- for CP members) Sorry I can't advise you on which sounds better, since I have not heard/ compared them. -
They are right. Those are very early 10s Would have had the peerless (HF 1000) marked 7514____ on back and made in Denmark. Why do the back of the crossovers in some of the pictures show no fuses while others do. ?? As was pointed out need to see pictures of the crossover to determine if they were upgraded to be used with SL3000. Which even the series 2 did not come with Those drivers are 6500s but if the crossover was upgraded i think they should be 6503s. If your crossover is still stock then you need peerless. Make sure to get the right one as there are about 3 different ones. You want one marked 7514___
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Hi, OK I see One is orignal and one is from 1990????. This is a real pain. They do not apper to be even slightly the same. I may have a solution for you I have a pair of crossovers from a pair of 10As from 1983. This may solve your problem keith
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Geppy1 what is the price for the crossovers?
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I would think $25 or $30 for the pair would be reasonable. keith
