need a tweeter

leftyfarmer
leftyfarmer Posts: 30
edited December 2009 in Vintage Speakers
I have a pair of 10b purchased new in 1977, the tweeter on one has failed, source needed for replacement.
Post edited by leftyfarmer on
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  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited December 2009
    do you have a pic, assuming monitor 10b? do these have fuses on the back?
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  • raidersrule76
    raidersrule76 Posts: 471
    edited December 2009
    Contact Polk Audio CS one of the best around

    or you can place an ad in the wanted section.

    Mark
    Sig to be updated after dealing with the insurance company:(:(:(
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  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited December 2009
    1977 = peerless if I'm correct. Check out eBay, they pop up from time to time.
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  • leftyfarmer
    leftyfarmer Posts: 30
    edited December 2009
    They are 10B's serial number's are 50237 and 50238, dual fuses in the back.
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  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited December 2009
    leftyfarmer wrote: »
    They are 10B's serial number's are 50237 and 50238, dual fuses in the back.

    not familiar with these but do hear fuses go bad even though they look good.
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  • leftyfarmer
    leftyfarmer Posts: 30
    edited December 2009
    Maybe I am not clear they are 10B Monitor's, I did look at the fuses, if i understand you correctly one of the fuses could have blown affecting the tweeter only, is that right?
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  • JohnLocke88
    JohnLocke88 Posts: 1,150
    edited December 2009
    leftyfarmer wrote: »
    Maybe I am not clear they are 10B Monitor's, I did look at the fuses, if i understand you correctly one of the fuses could have blown affecting the tweeter only, is that right?

    That is correct; If one of the tweeters is working, take the fuse assigned to that one (while everything is off of course) and transfer it to the "bad" tweeter fuse holder. If the tweeter works, go get yourself some quick blow, 1 AMP fuses from your local hardware store (splurge and get four).

    Also, to be certain it's a bad fuse, transfer the "bad" fuse over to the "good tweeter" holder as well... No more hi frequency from that speaker, then it's definitely the fuse.

    Good luck and Merry Xmas.
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  • kawizx9r
    kawizx9r Posts: 5,150
    edited December 2009
    Just something that hasn't been said before on the thread but if it is indeed a blown tweeter, I'd recommend replacing both at the same time and evenly breaking them in.

    Merry Christmas!

    -Freddy
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    heiney9 wrote: »
    Any clue how to use the internet? Found it in about 10 sec.
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  • leftyfarmer
    leftyfarmer Posts: 30
    edited December 2009
    Only 1 of the speakers is fused, it has 2 fuses, the other speaker has none, after 32 years
    of ownership you I am surprised just now finding this out, however the speakers have been trouble free up until today.
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  • JohnLocke88
    JohnLocke88 Posts: 1,150
    edited December 2009
    Okay... strange, you must have two different models of Monitor 10...

    No worries... On the speaker with the two fuses, one is assigned to tweeter "protection" and the other is assigned to midwoofer "protection."

    Assuming that the "broken" speaker is still outputting sound from the midwoofers, then your midwoofer fuse is still good to go. Take out the midwoofer tweeter, and use it to replace the possibly blown "tweeter" fuse. For good measure, put the possibly blown fuse back into the "midwoofer" fuse slot.

    After you've done all this, fire them up and give them a listen. You should be in one of two situations:

    1. If, no tweeter, but yes midwoofers, THEN bad tweeter, fuses still good.
    2. If, yes tweeter, but no midwoofers, THEN bad fuse, tweeter and midwoofers all good.
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  • woodsman10b
    woodsman10b Posts: 408
    edited December 2009
    Which speaker has the problem tweeter? The one with the fuses or the one with out?
    Most of them only hear how loud it sounds, and the rest of us hear everything else - :rolleyes:
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  • leftyfarmer
    leftyfarmer Posts: 30
    edited December 2009
    The fused speaker is the problem, I pulled the speaker it a SL3000, also I remember now that many years ago I had a problem with the crossover in one of the speakers, is it possible this is why one is fused and the other isn't? Also is it possible that the crossover is the problem, not the speaker?
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  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited December 2009
    This is all sounding strange to me, I think it is time to post pics because it seems you have two different series speakers and maybe not even the correct tweeters. And yes the x-over may be the problem.
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited December 2009
    zarrdoss wrote: »
    This is all sounding strange to me, I think it is time to post pics because it seems you have two different series speakers and maybe not even the correct tweeters. And yes the x-over may be the problem.

    It does seem that way doesn't it?
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,216
    edited December 2009
    Dual fuses were used on very early Monitors and SDA's. Sounds like the OP has hodge podge set of 10's as the sl3000 was never even used in the Monitor series only the sl2500 and that was for the last run (known as the series II in about 1990).

    The OP has totally mismatched set of Monitor 10's or at the very least was sold the wrong replacement tweeter sometime in the past. Not to doubt the OP but it's impossible you bought both these speakers in 1977 as they were still using fuses on ALL speakers and the sl3000 hadn't even been invented then.

    Something is fishy here.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • leftyfarmer
    leftyfarmer Posts: 30
    edited December 2009
    I pulled the other tweeter, it is also a SL3000 both have inspection date of Dec. 18, 1990. So apparently when I had the crossover work done they replaced both tweeters. do you know if the SL3000 are still available? or is there a better replacement?
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited December 2009
    leftyfarmer wrote: »
    I pulled the other tweeter, it is also a SL3000 both have inspection date of Dec. 18, 1990. So apparently when I had the crossover work done they replaced both tweeters. do you know if the SL3000 are still available? or is there a better replacement?

    The RD0198s are the replacement tweeter for the SL3000. Call Polk Customer Service and tell them you are a member of this forum and you will get a discount on them and in most cases free 2 day shipping.
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  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited December 2009
    The sl3000 is no longer available, but you have something weird going on there and should be looked into. the replacement from Polk for the sl-3000 is the RDO 198
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  • leftyfarmer
    leftyfarmer Posts: 30
    edited December 2009
    It is obvious to me now when I had the speakers repaired the technician put the wrong replacement tweeters. This discovery could be a blessing in disguise, I am looking forward to how they will sound with the correct replacement. They also stripped the wood out of 1 screw hole. Since they are incorrect replacement would they have done something else to the speakers to make them work?
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,216
    edited December 2009
    You have your work cut out for you.

    If you can post pics that would be helpful, plus a full history of what and when things were done to your speakers. Every generation of Monitor series has a slightly different x-over so first we need to know which drivers you are currently using and then which x-over(s) you have so we can get these back to "original".

    H9

    P.s. Guys you are missing the point that the sl3000 should have never been used and simply replacing it w/the RD0198-1 isn't going to help him to get both speakers the same. He sould concentrate on getting these back to original.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited December 2009
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^what he said would be most helpful^^^^^^^^^^^
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited December 2009
    It seems to me he just wanted to replace the tweeter and be done with, assuming the shop did the upgrade to the x-over to use a sl3000 is doubtful if even possible. We will definitely need pics of the speakers and x-overs to be of any help. I agree completely he should get these back to original or updated original or at least both the same lol.
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  • leftyfarmer
    leftyfarmer Posts: 30
    edited December 2009
    JOHN is sharing the photo album polk audio monitors 10B with you.
    View album



    Take a look!
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  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited December 2009
    those look like the earlier model monitor 10's that had peerless tweets to begin with to me.
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  • leftyfarmer
    leftyfarmer Posts: 30
    edited December 2009
    They are an older model I bought them new in 1977 at The Stereo Shoppe in Boise, Idaho. When they were repaired about 19 years ago with my knowledge
    the tweeters were changed out, I remember being told I had a crossover fail and that was what repaired. I hoping to repair them now to the best condition possible.I realize that will require some help and guidance, I appreciate all the comments finding them very helpful and educating. I will put a call into customer service to find out what is available from Polk Audio.
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  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited December 2009
    You will probably need to re-build the x-overs and get new tweeters for those, you will need to pull the x-overs and see what has been done and what you need to do to get them back up to par. lets see if any others chime in on what they think should be done.
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  • kcoc321
    kcoc321 Posts: 1,788
    edited December 2009
    My guess is that when you took them in for repair, rather than repair just the faulty parts, they replaced the whole, bad, crossover. The "telling" issue will be to take out the crossovers and take pictures and make a list of the values of the resistors and capacitors. I bet you will find that you have one 10A crossover (duel fuse) that has not (yet) been modified to use the SL3000, and one 10 series II crossover, than came stock components to use the SL3000. Course the Series II crossover was designed for a different MW than than the MW6500's you have, BUT it looks like the values are the same.... Too bad you didn't win Ben's Crossover Karma...than would set you up :) Good luck...and just think how great they will sound when they are configured correctly.. :)

    The "JC" SL3000 revision wiring diagram shows what 'probably' needs to be fixed, IF you stick with SL3000's or upgrade to the RDO-198's, http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18777&d=1155784729 which is probally best, sence it is hit or miss finding Peerless tweeters, and they also would not fit 'exactly' now, since they must have enlarged the holes to install the SL3000's.

    Next: Crossover (int) pictures..??
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  • leftyfarmer
    leftyfarmer Posts: 30
    edited December 2009
    What would be best way to approach the dismantling of the speaker at this point ? i have never worked on speakers so I just don't want to damage anything in meantime.
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  • kcoc321
    kcoc321 Posts: 1,788
    edited December 2009
    It is really easy. First take out the drivers, so you can disconnect the wire connectors. Note the way they are connected. You do not need to disconnect the wire going between the drivers, only driver to crossover. Then unscrew the 4 screws holding the crossover in and pull it out. I usually just put the screws back into their holes, lightly, keeps from loosing screws. And partially put the drivers back in. Keeps kids or cats from putting holes in them. Just be careful, it is fairly easy.
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited December 2009
    kcoc321 wrote: »
    Just be careful, it is fairly easy.

    Once you get past the jitters!;):D
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