Surge Protector/Power Strips
Jdubbs
Posts: 51
I currently use the Monster HTS 1000 power strip for my current system and paid about $180 or so about 4-5 yrs ago.
I am in the process of building another system and wanted to see if it's worth spending $200 give or take a few on another strip. I know its important to have a surge protector but need some recommendations without breaking the bank, I rather save some bucks that I can add to another piece...and on something that I can hear/see! thanks.
I am in the process of building another system and wanted to see if it's worth spending $200 give or take a few on another strip. I know its important to have a surge protector but need some recommendations without breaking the bank, I rather save some bucks that I can add to another piece...and on something that I can hear/see! thanks.
50" Sony LCD
Denon 3805
Polk Audio RM 20 system
Polk Audio 12" sub
PS3
Wii
Harmony One
HT system #2
55" Samsung LED
Pioneer Elite VSX 23
Fronts, Center- Polk VM 20
Rears- Polk VM10
Sub - DSW Pro 600
Harmony 900
Denon 3805
Polk Audio RM 20 system
Polk Audio 12" sub
PS3
Wii
Harmony One
HT system #2
55" Samsung LED
Pioneer Elite VSX 23
Fronts, Center- Polk VM 20
Rears- Polk VM10
Sub - DSW Pro 600
Harmony 900
Post edited by Jdubbs on
Comments
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Look at APC H10 or H15, also belkin PF31 or PF60 are good unit's in that price rangeMedia Room 7.1
Sharp lc37d64u | Sanus vmsab-03 | Sonax ZX8680 | Yamaha htr-6290b | Emotiva xpa1 x 2 & xpa5 | RTiA 9 & 7 | CSiA 6 | FXiA 6 | Sanus NF30B-03 | Velodyne dls-3750r | Dual 505-3 m97xe | Monster avs2000/hts5100
HTPC
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A fool and his money are easily parted
I don't drink Koolaid
Need some cable's? Just ask -
I currently use the Monster HTS 1000 power strip for my current system and paid about $180 or so about 4-5 yrs ago.
I am in the process of building another system and wanted to see if it's worth spending $200 give or take a few on another strip. I know its important to have a surge protector but need some recommendations without breaking the bank, I rather save some bucks that I can add to another piece...and on something that I can hear/see! thanks.
something you can hear/see - how about a nice power conditionerpanasonic th-50pz85u
pioneer elite vsx-92txh
pioneer elite bdp-05fd
emotiva xpa-3
monster power hdp 2550
sa 8300 hd dvr
sda 2b's
fronts - rti a9's
center - csi a6
surrounds - fxi a6's
sub - polk dsw pro 600
harmony one -
find a used panamax product
i bought Panamax M4300-EX for 40-50 bucks over a year ago. New M4300-PM used to be on sale for $100 or 150 bucks. both beat Monster HTS 1000 by quality, price, and looks. -
I 2nd the APC units..
Personally I use a Tripp-lite though. MMMM
Main Surround -
Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub
Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250
Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD -
I currently use the Monster HTS 1000 power strip for my current system and paid about $180 or so about 4-5 yrs ago.
I am in the process of building another system and wanted to see if it's worth spending $200 give or take a few on another strip. I know its important to have a surge protector but need some recommendations without breaking the bank, I rather save some bucks that I can add to another piece...and on something that I can hear/see! thanks.
I bought the APC H10 for less than $200.00 from the good people @Vann's and I cannot be happier.
My current fluctuates constantly from 120/123/124 and my Monster 3600 MK II cannot do anything abt it but the APC H10 can. It has 3 different voltage settings and it will either boost or trim to keep the voltage within the setting that you choose. Highly recommended. -
I 2nd the APC units..
Personally I use a Tripp-lite though. MMMM
What model is that?I don't read the newsssspaperssss because dey aaaallllllllll...... have ugly print.
Living Room: B&K Reference 5 S2 / Parasound HCA-1000A / Emotiva XDA-2 / Pioneer BDP-51FD / Paradigm 11se MKiii
Desk: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / ISK HD9999
Office: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / Dynaco SCA-80Q / Paradigm Legend V.3
HT: Denon AVR-X3400H / Sony UBP-X700 / RT16 / CS350LS / RT7 / SVS PB1000 -
concealer404 wrote: »What model is that?
HT1210ISOCTR
http://www.tripplite.com/en/products/model.cfm?txtModelID=3500
I have the battery backup as well from them.Main Surround -
Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub
Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250
Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD -
I 2nd Tripplite.I have the LCR2400 and it can actually handle both my amps + TV,Preamp,TT,and digital frontend.SDA-2BTL with custom IC
Adcom 565 monoblocks--Monarchy Audio M-10 preamp
Theta Data Basic Transport--Stello DA100 Signature DAC--Camelot Dragon Pro2 MK III
Harman Kardon T-55c TT
DH Labs Q-10 Signature Speaker Cables With Furez silver plated copper bananas
Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver Reference AES/EBU
Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver i2s digital cable
4 Furutech FP-314Ag with FI-11cu Plugs/FI-11AG IECs--- Power Cords
DH LABS REVELATIONS ICs-amps
Revelation Audio Labs Paradise cryo-silver ICs-Source to pre -
I bought my Monster 3600 MKII on FLeabay for 100$ shipped. It's great no issues. I'd say look into something used if you can.
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you are welcome i would offer $150 shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/Tripp-Lite-HT1210ISOCTR-12-Outlet-A-V-Power-Center_W0QQitemZ320462859208QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4a9d132bc8
or this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/PANAMAX-M4300-EX-8-Outlets-Surge-Suppressor_W0QQitemZ160387510016QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2557d72f00
http://cgi.ebay.com/Panamax-M4300-PM-Power-Conditioner-Surge-Protector_W0QQitemZ290381691086QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item439c18f8ce -
I paid $75 cash for mine New in Box...
got the Tripp-lite matching battery backup for free (gotta love knowing the tripp-lite VP)Main Surround -
Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub
Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250
Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD -
I would also look at units from Belkin and Panamax.polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
polkaudio 255c-RT Inwalls
polkaudio DSWPro550WI
polkaudio XRT12 XM Tuner
polkaudio RM6750 5.1
Front projection, 2 channel, car audio... life is good! -
I currently use the Monster HTS 1000 power strip for my current system and paid about $180 or so about 4-5 yrs ago.
It does not make any claims to protector from typically destructive surges.
All appliances contain significant protection. Your concern is that rare surge that may overwhelm that protection. A surge that typically happens once every seven years. To get the naive to promote ineffective protectors, myths claim surges occur every day. Completely nonsense.
But again, view those Monster specs. Where does it list each type of surge and protection from that surge. Nothing. Belkin, APC, and Tripplite also make the same claims. Get the same protector circuit for $7 from the grocery store. Yes, that Monster product is same as the $7 grocery store protector with some fancy paint added.
Your telco suffers direct lightning strikes with every thunderstorm. Their computer is connected to overhead wires all over town. Threatened by about 100 surges with each storm. So what does you telco install? Nothing from Monster, et al. Your telco needs protetors that actually do surge protection. For you, the same solution costs about $1 per protected appliance.
Surge protection was always about where energy dissipates. Will hundreds of joules in that Monster Cable protector absorb hundreds of thousands of joules in a surge? Again, did you read its numbers? Protectors that will magically stop and absorb surges? Will stop what even 3 miles of sky could not? Complete nonsense. Exactly why telcos all over the world do not waste money on ineffective profit centers.
Where is energy dissipated? Either earth that energy harmlessly. Or let energy seek earth ground destructively via appliances - with or without plug-in protectors. Your choice. Protection is about where energy dissipates.
Monster will stop what three miles of sky could not? That myth promotes Monster, Belkin, et al protectors. Responsible companies provide a 'whole house' protector with the always necessary short connection to earth. Without that short (ie 'less than 10 foot connection to an earthing electrode), then energy will hunt for earth destructively via appliances. The effective solution - that is routine in every telco switching center and essential in every munitions dump - means only one 'whole house' protector connected as short as possible to the best earth ground.
Even plug-in protectors need protection only provided by a properly earthed whole house protector.
Less responsible APC, Tripplite, et al do not provide them. 'Whole house' protectors come from General Electric, Siemens, Square D, Keison, Polyphaser, Intermatic, and Leviton - to name but a few. A Cutler-Hammer effective solution sells in Lowes for less than $50. Solutions that a majority never even knew existed. Effective protection means even your furnace, dishwasher, clock radio, etc are require that protection from an event that occurs maybe once every seven years. The effective solution also costs tens or 100 times less money.
Monster has a long history of selling scams. Monster sold speaker wire with polarity. If you connected that wire backwards, then speakers sounded worse. Only fools also believed that myth because that wire sold for $70. Same ineffective Belkin circuit (for $25) in sold by Monster for $150. Neither even claim protection in numeric specs. But since a plug-in protector costs more money, then the naive believe it must be effective.
A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. Where does energy dissipate? You must always answer that question. Harmlessly in earth? Or destructively inside the building? Where does that hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate? A protector is only as effective as its earth ground - which Monster does not provide and will not discuss. Listed are sources of 'real world' surge protection. -
I unplug my system when it's not in use and I pray when it's in use.
U should pray even when its unpluged.....just in case.
And to the other post, yes, lowes does sell all-house surge protectors, they go on ur electrical panel and cost about $50 -
or something like this
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View the specs for that Monster product. What does it claim to do. Not claims in a sales brochure. The only claims that matter have numbers.
It does not make any claims to protector from typically destructive surges.
All appliances contain significant protection. Your concern is that rare surge that may overwhelm that protection. A surge that typically happens once every seven years. To get the naive to promote ineffective protectors, myths claim surges occur every day. Completely nonsense.
But again, view those Monster specs. Where does it list each type of surge and protection from that surge. Nothing. Belkin, APC, and Tripplite also make the same claims. Get the same protector circuit for $7 from the grocery store. Yes, that Monster product is same as the $7 grocery store protector with some fancy paint added.
Your telco suffers direct lightning strikes with every thunderstorm. Their computer is connected to overhead wires all over town. Threatened by about 100 surges with each storm. So what does you telco install? Nothing from Monster, et al. Your telco needs protetors that actually do surge protection. For you, the same solution costs about $1 per protected appliance.
Surge protection was always about where energy dissipates. Will hundreds of joules in that Monster Cable protector absorb hundreds of thousands of joules in a surge? Again, did you read its numbers? Protectors that will magically stop and absorb surges? Will stop what even 3 miles of sky could not? Complete nonsense. Exactly why telcos all over the world do not waste money on ineffective profit centers.
Where is energy dissipated? Either earth that energy harmlessly. Or let energy seek earth ground destructively via appliances - with or without plug-in protectors. Your choice. Protection is about where energy dissipates.
Monster will stop what three miles of sky could not? That myth promotes Monster, Belkin, et al protectors. Responsible companies provide a 'whole house' protector with the always necessary short connection to earth. Without that short (ie 'less than 10 foot connection to an earthing electrode), then energy will hunt for earth destructively via appliances. The effective solution - that is routine in every telco switching center and essential in every munitions dump - means only one 'whole house' protector connected as short as possible to the best earth ground.
Even plug-in protectors need protection only provided by a properly earthed whole house protector.
Less responsible APC, Tripplite, et al do not provide them. 'Whole house' protectors come from General Electric, Siemens, Square D, Keison, Polyphaser, Intermatic, and Leviton - to name but a few. A Cutler-Hammer effective solution sells in Lowes for less than $50. Solutions that a majority never even knew existed. Effective protection means even your furnace, dishwasher, clock radio, etc are require that protection from an event that occurs maybe once every seven years. The effective solution also costs tens or 100 times less money.
Monster has a long history of selling scams. Monster sold speaker wire with polarity. If you connected that wire backwards, then speakers sounded worse. Only fools also believed that myth because that wire sold for $70. Same ineffective Belkin circuit (for $25) in sold by Monster for $150. Neither even claim protection in numeric specs. But since a plug-in protector costs more money, then the naive believe it must be effective.
A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. Where does energy dissipate? You must always answer that question. Harmlessly in earth? Or destructively inside the building? Where does that hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate? A protector is only as effective as its earth ground - which Monster does not provide and will not discuss. Listed are sources of 'real world' surge protection.
Nice writeup. One problem - you forgot to address the part about power conditioning, voltage stabilization, and how much power it can handle.
These are generally the most important things to get a power center for in home audio as they affect the sound quality that your equipment produces. Yes surge protection is important, but if it can't do any of these 3 things correctly, all it does is cut off the power when a surge hits. We want good sound, do your whole house protectors do this?Main Surround -
Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub
Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250
Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD -
This whole lengthly slam above of protection products smells to me an awful lot like yet another Audioholics slamming the foolish audiophile purchases!
While it does have some truth in the statements, a professional approach to surge protection management would not count on one device protection! And while whole house protection is, as pointed out, a very good idea (!!) the $50 kind of MOV protection is not the end all product by no means. Better for instance is sinewave tracking protection.
Also not mentioned is that you want as much delay as possible so the time it takes for MOV's to discharge is accounted for. And "last mile" protection so to speak at the device. And where did the 10' thing come from? Low impedance for a broad spread of frequencies is the better way to state it. Meaning as short as possible, gentle turns and flat strap is always better than the typical round wire...though that's never seen in residential.
Plus what the audiophile is often addressing is more that surge surpression. It's cleaning the garbage off the line. That in large part comes from within your house, not external!! The whole house protector will miss almost all of that noise!!
So rather than just blunt force object between the eyes of the above, it'd be my personal recommendation to add the whole house protection to whatever method you chose for the immediate equipment protection.
CoolJazzA so called science type proudly says... "I do realize that I would fool myself all the time, about listening conclusions and many other observations, if I did listen before buying. That’s why I don’t, I bought all of my current gear based on technical parameters alone, such as specs and measurements."
More amazing Internet Science Pink Panther wisdom..."My DAC has since been upgraded from Mark Levinson to Topping." -
Nice writeup. One problem - you forgot to address the part about power conditioning, voltage stabilization, and how much power it can handle.
These are generally the most important things to get a power center for in home audio as they affect the sound quality that your equipment produces. Yes surge protection is important, but if it can't do any of these 3 things correctly, all it does is cut off the power when a surge hits. We want good sound, do your whole house protectors do this?
+1--My LCR2400 provides conditioning and voltage stabilization and also has seperate outlet banks for digital gear.And my system does sound better hooked up to the 2400.SDA-2BTL with custom IC
Adcom 565 monoblocks--Monarchy Audio M-10 preamp
Theta Data Basic Transport--Stello DA100 Signature DAC--Camelot Dragon Pro2 MK III
Harman Kardon T-55c TT
DH Labs Q-10 Signature Speaker Cables With Furez silver plated copper bananas
Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver Reference AES/EBU
Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver i2s digital cable
4 Furutech FP-314Ag with FI-11cu Plugs/FI-11AG IECs--- Power Cords
DH LABS REVELATIONS ICs-amps
Revelation Audio Labs Paradise cryo-silver ICs-Source to pre -
^ dont know about improving sound or video, I bought mine because it was dirt cheap and looks kinda cool. I would never pay $200+ for this stuff.
ps. It is NOT recommended to plug AMPs and SUBs into APC. That type of gear must go directly into the wall outlet. (as stated in my manual for amps and/or subs) -
^ dont know about improving sound or video, I bought mine because it was dirt cheap and looks kinda cool. I would never pay $200+ for this stuff.
ps. It is NOT recommended to plug AMPs and SUBs into APC. That type of gear must go directly into the wall outlet. (as stated in my manual for amps and/or subs)
I plugged both into my APC H10. Sounded better.I don't read the newsssspaperssss because dey aaaallllllllll...... have ugly print.
Living Room: B&K Reference 5 S2 / Parasound HCA-1000A / Emotiva XDA-2 / Pioneer BDP-51FD / Paradigm 11se MKiii
Desk: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / ISK HD9999
Office: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / Dynaco SCA-80Q / Paradigm Legend V.3
HT: Denon AVR-X3400H / Sony UBP-X700 / RT16 / CS350LS / RT7 / SVS PB1000 -
concealer404 wrote: »I plugged both into my APC H10. Sounded better.
dont know........It says so in manual and my APC has special outlet for AVR which is a high current non-filtered outlet designed for AVR ONLY. AMPS and SUBS are also high current gear and shouldn't be plugged in APC. so even APC itself sates this. -
dont know........It says so in manual and my APC has special outlet for AVR which is a high current non-filtered outlet designed for AVR ONLY. AMPS and SUBS are also high current gear and shouldn't be plugged in APC. so even APC itself sates this.
The APC has high current plugs, DESIGNED for a subwoofer and an amp.
So that's where i plugged them into.
Frankly, even if it didn't say that, if i plugged them in, and it sounded better, it would have stayed there.
What APC do you have, anyways?I don't read the newsssspaperssss because dey aaaallllllllll...... have ugly print.
Living Room: B&K Reference 5 S2 / Parasound HCA-1000A / Emotiva XDA-2 / Pioneer BDP-51FD / Paradigm 11se MKiii
Desk: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / ISK HD9999
Office: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / Dynaco SCA-80Q / Paradigm Legend V.3
HT: Denon AVR-X3400H / Sony UBP-X700 / RT16 / CS350LS / RT7 / SVS PB1000 -
concealer404 wrote: »The APC has high current plugs, DESIGNED for a subwoofer and an amp.
So that's where i plugged them into.
Frankly, even if it didn't say that, if i plugged them in, and it sounded better, it would have stayed there.
What APC do you have, anyways?
Panamax M4300-EX which has 1 high current plug. In the manual it says that high current plug is the plug that has non-inductive noise filtration and is insulated from all other plugs but still has surge protection. -
Panamax M4300-EX which has 1 high current plug. In the manual it says that high current plug is the plug that avoids all filter and is insulated from all other plugs but still has surge protection.
Oh. Ermmm... we aren't on the same page.
I use this:
The company is APC. It has receiver, amp, and sub plugs.I don't read the newsssspaperssss because dey aaaallllllllll...... have ugly print.
Living Room: B&K Reference 5 S2 / Parasound HCA-1000A / Emotiva XDA-2 / Pioneer BDP-51FD / Paradigm 11se MKiii
Desk: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / ISK HD9999
Office: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / Dynaco SCA-80Q / Paradigm Legend V.3
HT: Denon AVR-X3400H / Sony UBP-X700 / RT16 / CS350LS / RT7 / SVS PB1000 -
concealer404 wrote: »Oh. Ermmm... we aren't on the same page.
The company is APC. It has receiver, amp, and sub plugs.
yeah. i got it. if you have those High Current plugs i suppose you can use them for subs and amps. i have only one plug and 2 subs, 1 avr, and 3 amps. I dont think it would be a good idea to plug all of them in to one high current outlet -
My LCR2400 also has plugs for high current.I had the amps plugged into the wall before I fixed my 2400 but after I tried the amps plugged into the 2400 the SQ was improved so there they stay.Everything was just cleaner sounding and the soundstage was greatly improved.SDA-2BTL with custom IC
Adcom 565 monoblocks--Monarchy Audio M-10 preamp
Theta Data Basic Transport--Stello DA100 Signature DAC--Camelot Dragon Pro2 MK III
Harman Kardon T-55c TT
DH Labs Q-10 Signature Speaker Cables With Furez silver plated copper bananas
Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver Reference AES/EBU
Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver i2s digital cable
4 Furutech FP-314Ag with FI-11cu Plugs/FI-11AG IECs--- Power Cords
DH LABS REVELATIONS ICs-amps
Revelation Audio Labs Paradise cryo-silver ICs-Source to pre -
Plus what the audiophile is often addressing is more that surge surpression. It's cleaning the garbage off the line. That in large part comes from within your house, not external!! The whole house protector will miss almost all of that noise!!
Where is that Monster Cable specification that claims to clean garbage? Where does the Monster Cable, Belkin, Tripplite spec claim to eliminate noise? Well they provide a number. Read those specs. Their number says 'near zero'.
A neat thing about 'near zero': near zero means the most naive will assume 100% protection. Then recommend it. Then Monster Cable, APC, Belkin, etc can sell a $7 grocery store circuit for $150 where ever reading is too difficult.
Where is that manufactuer numeric spec that says it will clean up the garbage. Ask Alice - for a better answer. -
concealer404 wrote: »The APC has high current plugs, DESIGNED for a subwoofer and an amp.
Those plugs are connected together. All are connected together and powered from the one and only power cord. Nothing is isolated or what ever the marketing manager called it. If a poet called it reisutated, would you also believe and recommend that feature? Apparently, yes.
Even its filtering is near zero. Anything connected to those NEMA5-15 receptacles is connected directly to the wall receptacle. Stop reading sales brochures to learn reality. The only insulation is when a sales brochure protects you from reality.
Even its surge protection exists because it is near zero. Show me a protection number that is anything but 'near zero'. You cannot. Subjective claims so that a 'near zero' function is promoted here by as a miracle.
Please. Show me how that plug was 'insulated' from all others when only one power cord connects to the wall. Show me the numeric specs that defines that insulation. You cannot. It does not exist - electrically. The only insulation is separation between myths (in a sales brochure) and reality (in the spec sheets). -
See that three prong receptacle? That means it is a 15 amp devices. That means every one is a high current plug designed for a subwoofer - just like every other NEMA5-15 plug on the wall. Amazing how subjective sales phrases get people to worship myths.
Those plugs are connected together. All are connected together and powered from the one and only power cord. Nothing is isolated or what ever the marketing manager called it. If a poet called it reisutated, would you also believe and recommend that feature? Apparently, yes.
Even its filtering is near zero. Anything connected to those NEMA5-15 receptacles is connected directly to the wall receptacle. Stop reading sales brochures to learn reality. The only insulation is when a sales brochure protects you from reality.
Even its surge protection exists because it is near zero. Show me a protection number that is anything but 'near zero'. You cannot. Subjective claims so that a 'near zero' function is promoted here by as a miracle.
Please. Show me how that plug was 'insulated' from all others when only one power cord connects to the wall. Show me the numeric specs that defines that insulation. You cannot. It does not exist - electrically. The only insulation is separation between myths (in a sales brochure) and reality (in the spec sheets).
I dont know how it gets filtered and/or conditioned , and I dont know if those devices actually work (maybe not), and I never believed in them (just as I said, I bought it for look and because it was $50 bucks)
BUT.......what you are saying is doesnt really make sense......The power is the same everywhere, 15AMP outlet in your wall, and ONE cable that goes inside the filtering/conditioning device also has the same power (obviously)....BUT inside it gets filtered and isolated. And if you look at specs, unlike all outlets which get filtered by 80bd filter, high current outlets gets filters by different 60db filter which proves that its isolated from all other power sources.
While I can agree all power and power cables are the same, and spending extra $1 on a "better" power cable is a nonsense, These devices actually DO what they state, how good they do it and if it actually helps is another question. -
See that three prong receptacle? That means it is a 15 amp devices. That means every one is a high current plug designed for a subwoofer - just like every other NEMA5-15 plug on the wall. Amazing how subjective sales phrases get people to worship myths.
Those plugs are connected together. All are connected together and powered from the one and only power cord. Nothing is isolated or what ever the marketing manager called it. If a poet called it reisutated, would you also believe and recommend that feature? Apparently, yes.
Even its filtering is near zero. Anything connected to those NEMA5-15 receptacles is connected directly to the wall receptacle. Stop reading sales brochures to learn reality. The only insulation is when a sales brochure protects you from reality.
Even its surge protection exists because it is near zero. Show me a protection number that is anything but 'near zero'. You cannot. Subjective claims so that a 'near zero' function is promoted here by as a miracle.
Please. Show me how that plug was 'insulated' from all others when only one power cord connects to the wall. Show me the numeric specs that defines that insulation. You cannot. It does not exist - electrically. The only insulation is separation between myths (in a sales brochure) and reality (in the spec sheets).
Then by your reasoning, ANY filteration of any kind in the house is useless.
Because there's only ONE power line going to your house.
Sorry, not buying it, and frankly? I don't care about the "science" behind it. It sounds better plugged in. So it's staying.
I've seen this thing trim down and boost voltages, it HAS protected all my gear during a surge, and the fact that it makes everything DEAD silent is a huge bonus.
So if you want to tell me that i wasted $97.99 in buying this. Go for it. I absolutely could not care less.I don't read the newsssspaperssss because dey aaaallllllllll...... have ugly print.
Living Room: B&K Reference 5 S2 / Parasound HCA-1000A / Emotiva XDA-2 / Pioneer BDP-51FD / Paradigm 11se MKiii
Desk: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / ISK HD9999
Office: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / Dynaco SCA-80Q / Paradigm Legend V.3
HT: Denon AVR-X3400H / Sony UBP-X700 / RT16 / CS350LS / RT7 / SVS PB1000