ohm load question
eprater1
Posts: 175
so i got myself a new pioneer elite vsx-23thx reciever that is rated at 110w x 7 and have a few questions. This is my 1st receiver ive ever owned always been into car audio but this is my 1st venture into home audio. im hoping it will do everything that my pioneer prs800 head unit will do.
1st off how accurate is the 110w/channel rating? i know alot of companies exagerate thier numbers and was wondering how accurate pioneer was?
2nd its rated at 110 at 8ohm if im using 6ohm speakers what kinda wattage should i expect (im guessing about 135 assuming the 110 is actual rms wattage)?
3rd does video upscaling mean i can use 3 different hdmi inputs (hd dvr, ps3, and wii) into the receiver and run one hdmi to the tv and by switching the receiver from one input to the other change the image on the tv????
4th i know there is a huge debate over speaker wire quality but since hdmi is a digital signal (nothing but 1's and 0's) why do people pay a ton of money for hdmi's. it would be like buying expensive paper vs cheap paper to do nothing more than write a todo list on???
5th is there another receiver you would have bought for 430.00 NIB shipped to your door?
1st off how accurate is the 110w/channel rating? i know alot of companies exagerate thier numbers and was wondering how accurate pioneer was?
2nd its rated at 110 at 8ohm if im using 6ohm speakers what kinda wattage should i expect (im guessing about 135 assuming the 110 is actual rms wattage)?
3rd does video upscaling mean i can use 3 different hdmi inputs (hd dvr, ps3, and wii) into the receiver and run one hdmi to the tv and by switching the receiver from one input to the other change the image on the tv????
4th i know there is a huge debate over speaker wire quality but since hdmi is a digital signal (nothing but 1's and 0's) why do people pay a ton of money for hdmi's. it would be like buying expensive paper vs cheap paper to do nothing more than write a todo list on???
5th is there another receiver you would have bought for 430.00 NIB shipped to your door?
Post edited by eprater1 on
Comments
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6th forgot to ask about subwoofers. i have a 12" memphis mojo running on 1100 rms watts and its in a huge box tuned at 30hz and plays down into the teens in my bronco (ive hit 146 on spl). will i ever get the volume and frequences im used to and keep clean bass repoduction in my living room that is approx 22x18 with a 14ft celing???
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1. Most AVR's power rating are shown as 2 channels driven in most cases. The Pioneer Elite is a better unit to have. Good start into the HT world.
2. Be very careful with low impedance speakers on AVR's. 6 ohm most likely won't be an issue with that one but it should say in the manual. Most AVR's are for 8 ohm speakers.
3. Video Upscalling means it will take a 480p dvd and upscale it to 1080p or as close as it can to HD.
4. There are several threads on this forum about cables. Read them and make your own judgement.
5. I don't like AVR's very much. So my opion is null on this question.
6. Buy a Sunfire True sub. Will run you mid 500 to high 600 depending on condition used but it will go down to 18 hz and is very small 11" x 11" x 11" and RMS power is 2700 watts.
Hope that helps some. If not I am sure someone else will chime in.Sunfire TGP, Sunfire Cinema Grand, Sunfire 300~2 (2), Sunfire True Sub (2),Carver ALS Platinum, Carver AL III, TFM-55, C-19, C-9, TX-8, SDA-490t, SDA-390t -
ewwww....i already bought some jamo speakers that are rated at 6ohm is this gonna be an issue? i can replace them if need be but id like not to ya know.
i was told i may need 2 of the carvers to repoduce what my bronco does sub wise any truth to this? -
As for the 6 to 8 ohm you should look at your manual to make sure it will be okay.
As for the sub you have to remember that the base responce you got out of your car/suv is a lot easier to do than a large room. I am not into car audio so I don't know that equipment very well but for most people, myself included and I am a base freek, one Sunfire True sub does very well. Though I have been on occasion to mull the idea of getting a second one.Sunfire TGP, Sunfire Cinema Grand, Sunfire 300~2 (2), Sunfire True Sub (2),Carver ALS Platinum, Carver AL III, TFM-55, C-19, C-9, TX-8, SDA-490t, SDA-390t -
(nothing but 1's and 0's)
It's considerably more complicated than that. Power supplies, DAC's, transports and yes, even cables all play a part in what happens with those 1's and 0's.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
so can 780 hdmi cables deliver a 1080 picture?
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No. It does not support the datarate of 1080p.
Maybe it can, but it is not supported.-Kevin
HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
2 Channel:
Oppo BDP-83 SE
Squeezebox Touch
Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
VTL 2.5
McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
B&W 801's
Transparent IC's -
To expand on that ohms question. I am into both car audio and HT one thing I have to ask is. Why in car audio do you just hook up speakers weather they be 4 ohms or 2 ohms like for subs and it works. While in HT you have to go into settings and select the ohms? I never figured that out. BTW nice receiver!HT setup
Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
Denon DBP-1610
Monster HTS 1650
Carver A400X :cool:
MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
Kef 104/2
URC MX-780 Remote
Sonos Play 1
Living Room
63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
Polk Surroundbar 3000
Samsung BD-C7900 -
bigaudiofanatic wrote: »To expand on that ohms question. I am into both car audio and HT one thing I have to ask is. Why in car audio do you just hook up speakers weather they be 4 ohms or 2 ohms like for subs and it works. While in HT you have to go into settings and select the ohms? I never figured that out. BTW nice receiver!
In car audio you still have to make sure the amp driving the subs is 2 omh stable, just like in home audio. If you "just hook it up" you can easily destroy the amp, just like in home audio -
In car audio you still have to make sure the amp driving the subs is 2 omh stable, just like in home audio. If you "just hook it up" you can easily destroy the amp, just like in home audio
I understand that but you do not have like a menu in the amp that you select 2 ohms or 4 ohms it just knows. In HT you have to go in and select it. That is what I want to figure out.HT setup
Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
Denon DBP-1610
Monster HTS 1650
Carver A400X :cool:
MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
Kef 104/2
URC MX-780 Remote
Sonos Play 1
Living Room
63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
Polk Surroundbar 3000
Samsung BD-C7900 -
Yeah, after re-reading your question, I figured that was what you were asking. I honestly didn't know you had to go into the receiver and set it for 4 ohms, but that's because I've never used a set of 4 ohm speakers in home audio. Maybe someone else can answer your question.
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The CW seems to hold that if you have to use a setting on your receiver to select 4 ohms operation, then it's probably just limiting the output to avoid going into protection mode. Receivers that can really handle the load with authority don't seem to use a switch (or menu setting) at all.
6 ohm speakers may not be that much of an issue, depeding on how low they really dip, but I would do my homework carefully on this setup before the return period on the gear expires.Alea jacta est! -
Cool thanks Kex.HT setup
Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
Denon DBP-1610
Monster HTS 1650
Carver A400X :cool:
MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
Kef 104/2
URC MX-780 Remote
Sonos Play 1
Living Room
63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
Polk Surroundbar 3000
Samsung BD-C7900 -
Not up on car gear, but I think the home receiver/AVR does this to limit the voltage/current draw to get UL and CE listed. Especially for 4 ohm and below loads. I forget the ratio of how often a speaker can dip below the nominal impedance rating and still qualify as nominal 6 ohm, or what ever it is claimed. But you may be able to find a plot of the speakers impedance through different freq. ranges if you search. If it is 6 - 8 ohms I don't think I would worry too much about it, with that Pioneer. Maybe I missed it but what speakers are you using?
After reading your OP again as far as how much power you will see in the 6 ohm setting I would guess less. It also sounds like you like things loud, so as far as not worring too much with 6 ohm speakers maybe you should tread lightly with the volume if you are using (7) 6 ohm speakers that dip a lot below 6. -
There's more to it than that IMO, since I own a receiver which is stable at 4 and 2 ohms with no switch or setting. Some brands manufacture all their receivers this way, and it should be obvious from the specifications page or it probably isn't true. The power supply is designed to handle the load without requiring any limitation on output, and in my case handles speakers with a 3-6 ohm rating and less than 83dB efficient.... I think the home receiver/AVR does this to limit the voltage/current draw to get UL and CE listed. ...Alea jacta est! -
There's more to it than that IMO, since I own a receiver which is stable at 4 and 2 ohms with no switch or setting. Some brands manufacture all their receivers this way, and it should be obvious from the specifications page or it probably isn't true. The power supply is designed to handle the load without requiring any limitation on output, and in my case handles speakers with a 3-6 ohm rating and less than 83dB efficient.
IIRC you are running NAD right Kex? The amp section in the NAD's I think is much more robust and designed to handle 4 ohm and below at the $$ of doing it right. I think most of the mass market AVRs (Denon, Onk, Yam etc.) for all but their top of the line cut costs as much as they can, by not making truly 4 ohm stable amps. Then knowing some people will not follow recommendations, put the limiter in place, and instructions on using it for liability reasons. Just my opinion, maybe I'm wrong. -
Not up on car gear, but I think the home receiver/AVR does this to limit the voltage/current draw to get UL and CE listed. Especially for 4 ohm and below loads. I forget the ratio of how often a speaker can dip below the nominal impedance rating and still qualify as nominal 6 ohm, or what ever it is claimed. But you may be able to find a plot of the speakers impedance through different freq. ranges if you search. If it is 6 - 8 ohms I don't think I would worry too much about it, with that Pioneer. Maybe I missed it but what speakers are you using?
After reading your OP again as far as how much power you will see in the 6 ohm setting I would guess less. It also sounds like you like things loud, so as far as not worring too much with 6 ohm speakers maybe you should tread lightly with the volume if you are using (7) 6 ohm speakers that dip a lot below 6.
i will only be pushing 5 speakers and they are yamo 506's -
Nothing to switch on my denon to run 4 ohms. On others it is to limit the voltage to the Transistors/MOSFETs so they don't burn up.
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