joint of two wires

kjaym71
kjaym71 Posts: 10
edited November 2009 in Basic Hookup/Wiring Questions
Hi all,

Today I received 16 gaufe 100ft wire.
But the wire is little bit short.
- Can I joint old wire to my new wire(16 gauge)?
- If it's possible, should I just 'twist' two wires to joint(like electric wires)?
- Do you think there should be severe loss in sound quality?

Thanks,
Post edited by kjaym71 on
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Comments

  • tcrossma
    tcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited November 2009
    It's never an ideal situation, but yes, you could treat them just like an electrical connection. Twist them together and secure them with a wire nut and maybe some electrical tape. If you wanted to go nuts and help ensure that no oxidation occurs over time, you could solder them together and use a heat shrink wrap around the joint.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
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  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited November 2009
    WHAT are you using 100 ft of wire for? What speaker? What power output will you be running into it? For that length of run, you may require a higher gauge, depending on some other factors...
    TNRabbit
    NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
    Sunfire TG-IV
    Ashly 1001 Active Crossover
    Rane PEQ-15 Parametric Equalizers x 2
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Seven
    Carver AL-III Speakers
    Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer
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  • wetcoast
    wetcoast Posts: 64
    edited November 2009
    TNRabbit wrote: »
    WHAT are you using 100 ft of wire for? What speaker? What power output will you be running into it? For that length of run, you may require a higher gauge, depending on some other factors...

    x2.

    http://www.practical-home-theater-guide.com/home-theater-wiring.html

    According to the above guide you should be using a minimum of 14GA wire for 100'.
    Speakers: Polk LSi 25, LSiC, LSiFX
    Sub: Maelstrom X 18" DIY
    Amps: Sunfire Sig Seven, Behringer EP-4000
    Processor: Integra DHC-80.1
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  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited November 2009
    or put the speakers in the same room as the amp !!
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
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    :cool:
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  • TECHNOKID
    TECHNOKID Posts: 4,298
    edited November 2009
    tcrossma wrote: »
    It's never an ideal situation, but yes, you could treat them just like an electrical connection. Twist them together and secure them with a wire nut and maybe some electrical tape. If you wanted to go nuts and help ensure that no oxidation occurs over time, you could solder them together and use a heat shrink wrap around the joint.
    Yes but...
    TNRabbit wrote: »
    WHAT are you using 100 ft of wire for? What speaker? What power output will you be running into it? For that length of run, you may require a higher gauge, depending on some other factors...
    X3! Sometimes it is much simpler and provides for a better quality job to simply spend a few $$ to buy new wires and do the right job. Personally I don't twist and tape electrical wires for safety reasons... and nor do I twist and tape speaker wires for SQ reasons. Also, unless for very short distance I wouldn't use 16 gage anyway.
    beardog03; or put the speakers in the same room as the amp !!
    +1

    NOTE: If you still persist in connecting the wires together, the minimum would be to a proper junction (stay away from twisiting and taping).

    Cheers :)
    DARE TO SOAR:
    “Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life” ;)
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  • tcrossma
    tcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited November 2009
    TECHNOKID wrote: »
    Personally I don't twist and tape electrical wires for safety reasons...

    Twist, wire nut, and (optional) electrical tape around the wire nut, all inside a box IS the proper way to do electrical. And it would work just fine for speaker wire, though as I stated it is not ideal for SQ reasons.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
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  • domflane
    domflane Posts: 653
    edited November 2009
    I don't like making in line speaker wire connections. I was forced to for my rear speakers after the dog ate the original wire and had nothing but problems with it. If the connection is not perfect, you'll get interference and maybe short out that channel. I used wire nuts and tape and the AVR still overloaded. Save yourself a headache, buy enough wire to make one run . . .
    Home Theater
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    2 Channel
    Polk RTA 15TL - Harman Kardon HK3485 - HK DVD48 - Signal Cable IC's and speaker cables
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  • bigaudiofanatic
    bigaudiofanatic Posts: 4,415
    edited November 2009
    My rear speakers are using twists wires together for right now and no problems. Soon I will get a single run.
    HT setup
    Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
    Denon DBP-1610
    Monster HTS 1650
    Carver A400X :cool:
    MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
    Kef 104/2
    URC MX-780 Remote
    Sonos Play 1

    Living Room
    63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
    Polk Surroundbar 3000
    Samsung BD-C7900
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  • sTiLlLeArNiNg
    sTiLlLeArNiNg Posts: 805
    edited November 2009
    IF you must, you should do it properly with some solder & heat shrink ;)

    Put a piece of heat shrink the length/size you need on the wire, twist the wire's together so that they stay like this ----, then solder and heat shrink! I have made MANY connection's this way on car's, boat's, equipment/machines, audio, etc, etc...

    Make shure the wire's are clean and that you heat the wire first before applying the solder, this way it will flow well and form a solid connection. Also if you can, try to use a solder that is designed for electronic's use as it has better propertie's as compared to standard solder and usually has some form of flux.
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  • grimmace19
    grimmace19 Posts: 1,429
    edited November 2009
    Instead of starting a new thread I figured I could get an easy answer by bumping an old one. Ive read a lot around here about replacing the jumper on the double post speaker sets with a strand of speaker wire. Does this actually help much and for what reason? Also is this something one should do only if you are using both sets or if you dont have a bi-wire going on will it still help? Heading to lowes for some wire tomorrow and might pick up a few extra inches if this is something that would help. TIA
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  • potee
    potee Posts: 610
    edited November 2009
    wetcoast wrote: »
    x2.

    http://www.practical-home-theater-guide.com/home-theater-wiring.html

    According to the above guide you should be using a minimum of 14GA wire for 100'.

    Thanks for the link I'm always wanting to learn
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