New Polk Monitor 50's, static noise.

Vaant
Vaant Posts: 11
edited September 2009 in Troubleshooting
Hi, I just ordered, and received today a couple of Polk Monitor 50's. These are my first 'proper' speakers, going from my old Sony HTiB speakers.

My problem is that from one of the speakers i get a strange, low, hissing/crackly noise which is distorting the sound. I can only really hear it if i put my ear up to the speaker and notice that it's only coming out of the very top 'cone' part, the sound is beautiful from the middle and bottom of the speaker.

I'm pretty sure it's not my cabling as I tried hooking up my other Monitor 50 to the same cable and the same input from my receiver and that one sounds fine.

Pretty upset, don't want to have to pay for shipping this thing back to get it replaced... any ideas what could be wrong and if I could fix it myself? Just as a warning though, I'm a complete n00b when it comes to speakers I'm afraid.

My receiver is a Sony STR-DH700 by the way.
Post edited by Vaant on

Comments

  • pablo_rodz
    pablo_rodz Posts: 331
    edited September 2009
    Where did you buy this from? If it is under warranty contact the PolkAudio Customer Service, they are great!
    HT:
    Projector - JVC HD100, 100" Fixed Screen, A/V Receiver - Pioneer Elite VSX-92TXH, Power Conditioner - Panamax M5300-EX, BluRay - Sony PS3, (2) ADCOM GFA 555 Bridged, Speakers - LSi 15, LSi C, LSi FX, Sub - 12" M&K VX-1250.

    Living Room:
    Schiit Saga, Parasound HCA-600, OPPO BDP-103D, LSi7
  • Vaant
    Vaant Posts: 11
    edited September 2009
    I got them from Newegg, they're brand new so they're under warranty i guess
  • Vaant
    Vaant Posts: 11
    edited September 2009
    Sorry for double post, i can't find the edit button... But I'm wondering, would Polk provide me with a shipping label if i sent it to them for repairs? This speaker would cost a lot for shipping...
  • wutadumsn23
    wutadumsn23 Posts: 3,702
    edited September 2009
    The edit option is only available for I think like 5 minutes after you post and then it is not an option anymore. Hopefully Ken or Eric will see this thread and be able to help you out on the shipping issue. Polk CS is the bees knees though, so I wouldn't sweat it.

    -Jeff
    HT Rig
    Receiver- Onkyo TX-SR806
    Mains- Polk Audio Monitor 70
    Center- Polk Audio CS2
    Surrounds- Polk Audio TSi 500's :D
    Sub- Polk Audio PSW125
    Retired- Polk Audio Monitor 40's
    T.V.- 60" Sony SXRD KDS-60A2000 LCoS
    Blu-Ray- 80 GB PS3


    2 CH rig (in progress)
    Polk Audio Monitor 10A's :cool:

    It's not that I'm insensitive, I just don't care.. :D
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited September 2009
    Hello Vaant,
    Thanks foir posting on the Forum, I'm sorry you're having problems with the Monitor 50 speaker. It should be easy to replace the tweeter the only tool you would need would be a 9/64th Allen wrench. Just telephone us at 1-800-377-7655 or email us at polkcs@polkaudio.com and we can help get a replacement to you.
    Regards, Ken
  • wutadumsn23
    wutadumsn23 Posts: 3,702
    edited September 2009
    Man Ken, you are all over the Forum this morning, lol. I told you Vaant, Eric or Ken would be all over it.

    -Jeff
    HT Rig
    Receiver- Onkyo TX-SR806
    Mains- Polk Audio Monitor 70
    Center- Polk Audio CS2
    Surrounds- Polk Audio TSi 500's :D
    Sub- Polk Audio PSW125
    Retired- Polk Audio Monitor 40's
    T.V.- 60" Sony SXRD KDS-60A2000 LCoS
    Blu-Ray- 80 GB PS3


    2 CH rig (in progress)
    Polk Audio Monitor 10A's :cool:

    It's not that I'm insensitive, I just don't care.. :D
  • Vaant
    Vaant Posts: 11
    edited September 2009
    Thanks Ken, I'd read on these forums that Polk has one of the best customer services, and that was one of the reasons I chose Polk. You guys sure were right! But what i'm wondering is which of the cones on my speaker is the one that's not sounding good?

    This is the speaker I have http://tiny.cc/aZaSK and it's the 'cone' on the very top which isn't sounding good, I followed Ken's advice and covered the other cone with a small pillow to isolate the sound to ensure that that's the one that's not working right. Is that the Tweeter? or the mid range driver? And once I get a replacement, how do I go about replacing it? I've used an Allen Key to take it out to look at it but it seems stuck, I don't want to force it even if it is broken... you could say I'm very delicate when it comes to DIY!
  • Jed Leland
    Jed Leland Posts: 183
    edited September 2009
    Hello,
    The approved tweeter removal method is to, after taking out the screws, use a putty knife to gently pry up the tweeter. Go around the complete edge of the tweeter's faceplate and put a couple layers of heavy paper behind the putty knife to prevent scratches. Go gently and take your time and it will come out.
    Cheers, Jed
  • Vaant
    Vaant Posts: 11
    edited September 2009
    Thanks jed, i managed to get it out. Now there are two cables plugged into it. I could take out one, but the Yellow cable seemed attached? Am i supposed to remove it at the tweeter itself? I just want to practice removing it and putting it back together so as i don't damage my replacement when i'm installing it. Also, are there any precautions I should follow as to looking after the speakers? Like not touching the front of the tweeter or applying pressure to it?
  • Vaant
    Vaant Posts: 11
    edited September 2009
    Well I guess it's actually not the Tweeter that's broken but the top mid range driver? Are the two bigger cones mid range drivers and the smaller one in the middle (the one that says dynamic balance) the Tweeter?
  • kawizx9r
    kawizx9r Posts: 5,150
    edited September 2009
    Vaant wrote: »
    Well I guess it's actually not the Tweeter that's broken but the top mid range driver? Are the two bigger cones mid range drivers and the smaller one in the middle (the one that says dynamic balance) the Tweeter?

    Yes, the smallest one is in fact the tweeter and the larger drivers are the mid range/bass drivers. They are all dynamic balance drivers ;)
    Truck setup
    Alpine 9856
    Phoenix Gold RSD65CS

    For Sale
    Polk SR6500
    Polk SR5250
    Polk SR104


    heiney9 wrote: »
    Any clue how to use the internet? Found it in about 10 sec.
  • Vaant
    Vaant Posts: 11
    edited September 2009
    Alright! I'm learning! So does the Tweeter actually output sound? It's hard to tell, even with covering the mid range/bass drivers with a cushion. And is it easy replacing a mid range/bass driver? I've managed to take it out but there are two wires and one seems to be attached...
  • kawizx9r
    kawizx9r Posts: 5,150
    edited September 2009
    Hmm, if it wasn't playing earlier that might just be the reason! One of the cables (+) goes to the (+) end of the speaker and same thing with the (-) on the speaker cable and speaker itself. Try connecting it and playing them.
    Truck setup
    Alpine 9856
    Phoenix Gold RSD65CS

    For Sale
    Polk SR6500
    Polk SR5250
    Polk SR104


    heiney9 wrote: »
    Any clue how to use the internet? Found it in about 10 sec.
  • Vaant
    Vaant Posts: 11
    edited September 2009
    Well, they're both plugged into the mid range/bass driver, but one (the yellow cable) seems physically attached (the other cable i can just unplug). It might not be, but I don't want to force it and end up breaking it. Surely I'm going to need to unplug the cable to replace the driver?
  • kawizx9r
    kawizx9r Posts: 5,150
    edited September 2009
    Vaant wrote: »
    Well, they're both plugged into the mid range/bass driver, but one (the yellow cable) seems physically attached (the other cable i can just unplug). It might not be, but I don't want to force it and end up breaking it. Surely I'm going to need to unplug the cable to replace the driver?

    Yes, in order to pull out any driver you need to always disconnect both cables going to the speaker itself.

    But you say its attached....I'm curious. Can you post a picture of this? Usually you can pry them off in order to remove said driver.
    Truck setup
    Alpine 9856
    Phoenix Gold RSD65CS

    For Sale
    Polk SR6500
    Polk SR5250
    Polk SR104


    heiney9 wrote: »
    Any clue how to use the internet? Found it in about 10 sec.
  • Vaant
    Vaant Posts: 11
    edited September 2009
    Well, i'll go take another look. Maybe it's not attached and i'm just being ~too~ careful, but the way it plugs into the speaker is different form the other cable and it certainly is tight.
  • kawizx9r
    kawizx9r Posts: 5,150
    edited September 2009
    Vaant wrote: »
    Well, i'll go take another look. Maybe it's not attached and i'm just being ~too~ careful, but the way it plugs into the speaker is different form the other cable and it certainly is tight.

    I'll take or look for a pic of what you should be looking at. It can be a bit tight fitting and difficult to pull apart, I generally hold onto the cable itself as to not pry the metal connector from the cable when disconnecting drivers. If you look closely, theres a small "bump" that keeps it from being pulled apart easily.

    Edit: Here we go, hopefully you can see what I'm talking about
    SNV11860.jpg

    You can see it on the left terminal as well if you look closely.
    Truck setup
    Alpine 9856
    Phoenix Gold RSD65CS

    For Sale
    Polk SR6500
    Polk SR5250
    Polk SR104


    heiney9 wrote: »
    Any clue how to use the internet? Found it in about 10 sec.
  • Vaant
    Vaant Posts: 11
    edited September 2009
    Wow, thanks for the picture, that really helped me! You are right about the bump, I've now been able to unplug the wires.

    Is it safe to use the speaker with the top mid range driver unplugged? The sound is fine through the tweeter and bottom mid range driver.
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,029
    edited September 2009
    Vaant wrote: »
    Is it safe to use the speaker with the top mid range driver unplugged? The sound is fine through the tweeter and bottom mid range driver.
    No.

    The ONLY way it would be safe is if the contacts going to the driver never touch each other. Still, it's best just to leave things alone until the new driver is properly installed. Why? **** happens.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • kawizx9r
    kawizx9r Posts: 5,150
    edited September 2009
    I would say, test the removed driver by itself. Plug it in to the speaker cable thats coming from your receiver and play it at a low volume and check how it sounds. If there is an issue, it may have been caused during shipping and the magnet or pole piece may have shifted (just an educated guess but I'm no technical guru by any means).
    Truck setup
    Alpine 9856
    Phoenix Gold RSD65CS

    For Sale
    Polk SR6500
    Polk SR5250
    Polk SR104


    heiney9 wrote: »
    Any clue how to use the internet? Found it in about 10 sec.
  • Vaant
    Vaant Posts: 11
    edited September 2009
    I don't know how I'd go about connecting the speaker wires from my receiver to the driver, but I'm positive it's the driver that's the problem the cable looks fine and the tweeter and the other driver sound nice. You could be right about it being damaged during shipping or in the warehouse but the box looked fine and the cabinet is pristine so i don't know.
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,029
    edited September 2009
    You can [at a LOW volume] check the individual driver in question by taking the speaker wires that you would normally hook up to the speaker and gingerly touch them to said driver. + to + and - to -. If the issue persists, then you have found your problem.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~