PSW350 Stopped working?

Illusion

Hello, I just bought a PSW350 that I got at a great price online to replace my PSW250. I plugged the 350 into the wall, and removed the subwoofer cable from the 250, and plugged it straight into the 350. The PSW350's power light went out and it's not turning on anymore. I opened up the back and the fuze is slightly burnt but inside it is still intact. I'm unsure of what to do, and if it's possible to send in for repair as I am not the original owner, and it is probably out of warranty period. Thanks for any help.

Zeros

I would still replace that fuse. It may look OK, but I'll bet it's blown. If you have a multimeter, check continuity across the fuse to see if it's blown. Let us know what you find out.

Illusion

Thanks for the quick reply.

Can this fuse only be obtained through Polk Audio, or can I go out to a hardware store and get one? I'm new to the whole speaker scene.

Also, might be a stupid question, but if you used a fuse that wasn't the exact same one, could it damage the subwoofer?

One more thing, could the fuse still be blown even though inside, the little wire thingy is still intact?

TECHNOKID

Can this fuse only be obtained through Polk Audio, or can I go out to a hardware store and get one?:I highly doubt you'll be able to get such fuse in a hardware store but maybe radio scrap or any other electronic component supplier in your area should be able to help you.

Also, might be a stupid question, but if you used a fuse that wasn't the exact same one, could it damage the subwoofer?:The fuse is rated specifically to protect the specific circuit of your subwoofer (amperage and type (slow blow etc...)) I highly recommend you get the exact one or if you can't at least get one with a lower rating as the higher rating will more likely blow after electronic damage has occured!

One more thing, could the fuse still be blown even though inside, the little wire thingy is still intact?: Yes, first way to recognise a blown fuse, you will see black burns inside the tube but not always. A fuse may burn not showing the burnt mark and not even showing broken filament as sometime it blows inside the end casing and you will not see it. If you have a multimeter/ohm meter you can check for continuity otherwise, simply change the fuse.

I recommend that when you plug everything back on the subwoofer, you make sure it is turned off as when plugging the sub with the switch on you may create a spike that will blow the fuse right away. Once everything is all plugged in, turn the subwoofer on, you must realise that some subwoofer will not light on unless there is actually a signal (music) going through therefore, once it is turned on play some music and see what happens. Then if power light doesn't come on and sound isn't heard you then want to check for an authorise Polk repair shop (hopefully, you will not have to go that route). Simple question, did you get this subwoofer demoded for a while before you bought it?

Cheers and good luck!
TK

Illusion

Thanks for the help.

From the information you gave me, I think I can come to the conclusion that the fuse is blown, as I had it plugged in and the light was on green, and I plugged in the subwoofer cable, and that's when it went out. I didn't think twice about it as I always plug in things like this with the PSW250.

And yes, I have tried it with signal, sorry if you already answered the question, but where would I go about buying the exact same fuse? Thanks.

Knucklehead

google it

Illusion

These don't look the same, but would they work? =/

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-25A-T1-25A-250V-Time-Lag-Ceramic-Fuse-5-x-20mm-10-PCS_W0QQitemZ260458639880QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ca48b7208&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Thanks.

danger boy

if replacing the fuse doesn't do the trick. then call Polk customer service and they can help you out. Tell them you are a Club Polk member in case you have to purchase something for a discount.

Zeros

Are there any numbers or letters on the fuse? Is it a glass fuse? If you post the specs on the fuse we can probably find what you need online.

Illusion

It has 1.25A 250V written on it.

TECHNOKID

The link you posted is for a ceramic fuse which has a different purpose... Yours will more likley be clear glass and is cheaper. Now, don't get CP involved just yet as it would more likely cost you more for a single fuse than the box of 10 would.

You must have a local electronic component supplier in your area. I even mentioned radio shack may carry that fuse. That type of fuse is getting a lot more common and should available locally. If you can't find anything, just buy that box of 10 in the link you provided as it is a cheap mean to test your subwoofer electronics.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The fuse from the link you have provided has a time delay and is for a motor. I'd suggest you forget about this one since the time delay may be enough for damage of the subwoofer amp prior to the fuse blowing.


Cheers!
TK

Zeros

You can pick up a pack of 4 1amp / 250v fuses at radio shack for $1.99. Being lower than the 1.25A of the original, you can test the sub without risk of damaging it. I would put one of these in, make your connections and turn it on. If the fuse blows again, there is a some bigger issue. Here is the link for the 1A / 250v fuses:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102739

You could also try the 1.5A / 250V fuses, but they are rated higher than the original and could damage something. Here is the page for them:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102740

They do not list a 1.25A / 250V fuse on their website, but that doesn't mean they don't have them in the store also. Good luck and again let us know if this fixes it.

TECHNOKID

Zeros wrote: »

You can pick up a pack of 4 1amp / 250v fuses at radio shack for $1.99. Being lower than the 1.25A of the original, you can test the sub without risk of damaging it. I would put one of these in, make your connections and turn it on. If the fuse blows again, there is a some bigger issue. Here is the link for the 1A / 250v fuses:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102739

You could also try the 1.5A / 250V fuses, but they are rated higher than the original and could damage something. Here is the page for them:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102740

They do not list a 1.25A / 250V fuse on their website, but that doesn't mean they don't have them in the store also. Good luck and again let us know if this fixes it.

+1 on the 1 amp... 1.5 amp is playing with fire!

Illusion

Thanks. What would be the drawbacks of running on a 1 amp, would it not be as loud, or what?

TECHNOKID

Illusion wrote: »

Thanks. What would be the drawbacks of running on a 1 amp, would it not be as loud, or what?

The only difference with 1 amp versus 1.25 amps is that the fuse would blow-up earlier since it would heat at a lower amperage but this doesn't affect in any way the performance of the subwoofer. The fuse is simply a necessary protection, doesn't affect the performance in any way shape or form.

Cheers!
TK

Illusion

I got some 1amp 250v radioshack fuses and when I tried to install them I realized they were like 2 times as big. I looked at the fuse from my PSW250 which is a 1amp 250v and I noticed inside the wire was very thin, similar to the radioshack fuses. The fuse that is in the PSW350 is thick and does not move around inside the tube. I put the PSW250's fuse in the PSW350 and it blew completely black immediately. Are there ways to get bigger fuses to work in smaller clamps, and what does a very thick inside, almost like a low guitar string mean, vs. a paper thin wire inside? Thanks.

Illusion

Just an update, I put the fuse from my PSW250 in the PSW350, (1amp 250v), and it blew immediately. I have since returned the PSW350 for a refund, less shipping, and duct taped the larger 1amp 250v fuse to stay in place in the PSW250, as the fuse is too big. It fell out within 24 hours, I retaped and it has been fine for the past week or two.

olilugo

all this touble just because you din't want to get the right fuse from polk. wow. Thanks for the lesson.

mudixon

I destroyed the amp in my 350 earlier this year by putting in the wrong fuse. Be careful. The fuse I bought looked okay, but it was not the right one. When I saw smoke, that was the end of the amp!

Polk sold me a replacement amp, and everything is basically back to normal except for a new static noise and sonic thump I hear when plugging it back in after it being unplugged for a while.

Illusion

olilugo wrote: »

all this touble just because you din't want to get the right fuse from polk. wow. Thanks for the lesson.

I left their customer service messages after hours on each of their lines about the fuse, buying a new one, and my contact information. I'm gone certain hours of the day and I cannot make the call within their working hours. None of my calls were answered or returned, so I gave up.

mudixon

Hi olilugo,

Yes, I should have contacted Polk regarding a fuse, but since this was the first time I have ever had to replace a fuse in practically anything, I figured I could locate one locally and save time and money. It was a mistake I readily admit, but a learning experience too.