Amp Questions - 1.2TLs

nacam
nacam Posts: 56
edited July 2009 in Vintage Speakers
Well, after some testing I think my 1.2TL's are ready to rock. I had one that was making a buzzing sound at certian frequencies and found that one of the internal cabinet braces had come unglued. U fixed that and they are sounding (as far as I know) as good as they should. Another issue I fixed is that one of the MW's was completely disconnected.

Now I am thinking I am going to upgrade my Yamaha P-2200 to drive them. Many over the year have used this amp to power studio monitors. It does have some decent power (200w continuous/channel @ 8ohms) but it's old and I have been hesetant to have it drive these past 100 watts (from the meters). One option is to have it sent in to have it checked and re-conditioned or purchase a new amp all together.

I have been doing some research and have been looking at some options. Most if you prefer Carver from whar I can see but I am interested in learning more as to what to look for in an amp than just someone telling be "Buy the Carver ****".

Ovbiously I can understand some of the specifications on an amp (bandwidth capability is one I can understand) but it get's confusing as all amp manufacturers measure things differently. For example my P-2200's power rating:

200 Watts continuous average sine wave power into
8 ohms with less than 0.05% THD, (Total Harmonic
Distortion), over a bandwidth of 20Hz to 20kHz,
both channels driven.
230 Watts continuous average sine wave power into
8 ohms with less than 0.05% THD, at 1 kHz, both
channels driven.

I can sort of gather what this means but what is this amp producing "realistically" at full power? For a new amp, what rating should I be looking for in something new to get a minimum of 300 watts into each of these monsters?

Damping factor was another rating I was reading about. My P-2200 has a damping factor of >300 from 20hz-1khz. From what I have been reading this (in general) is an amps capability to control the drivers (ok, that's the dummbed downed version). This factorr keeps the bass tight an keeps the drivers from "ringing" (moving back and forth) after a hit of power from a kick drum signal for example. Is this right? Question - what damping factor should I be looking for? I have seen amps that go up to >5000 from 20hz - 100hz @ 8 ohms. Is this really needed? Is the more control the better for the 1.2's given their design?

I have been looking more in the "professional" realm of power amps (Crown, QSC).

Any help in determining what would be best in terms of specifications would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance:
Nacam
2 Channel Basement Setup:
PC With M-Audio Audiophile 24/96 Card
Rotel RC-1070
Rotel RB-1090
Polk Audio SDA SRS 1.2TL (1991) w/RD0-198 Tweeters.
Post edited by nacam on
«13

Comments

  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited July 2009
    Just my opinion but.....steer clear of pro amps, they as a rule don't have the refined sound of home stereo equipment. One way to get higher power is to buy two of the same amp and bi-amp with them. I am a Carver fan but they bring a lot more money than other decent brands like Adcom etc. I'm not sure if the amp linked below is common ground or not but it would definitely give you all the power you'd need.:)

    http://cgi.ebay.com/CARVER-TFM-75-amp-owned-by-Bob-Seger_W0QQitemZ230358047630QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVintage_Electronics_R2?hash=item35a268db8e&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50
  • AudioGenics
    AudioGenics Posts: 2,567
    edited July 2009
    you bring up an interesting topic
    professional amplifiers compared to home high fidelity amplifiers.

    I'll probably should start a new thread.....
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited July 2009
    I too am a fan of carvers. My TFM-45 is in ROllands hands for a full service.

    He just serviced a TFM-55x that will most likely be on the FM once I get the 45 back.

    My advice on any of the TFMs is try to buy one that has been serviced recently. It makes no sence to pay going price for one that will need servicing.

    What I like about Rollands service over others is he brings it back to better than new.
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,748
    edited July 2009
    Most if you prefer Carver from what I can see

    Hardly.

    I'd say Adcom gets the most recommendations along with the other usual suspects, Rotel and NAD.

    All will work, but there are much better choices. Specs can help guide you, but they will not tell you what the amp sounds like or if it will have synergy with the rest of your gear. Pro amps, just forget about them.

    So, what is the rest of your gear and how much money are you looking to spend?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Ron Temple
    Ron Temple Posts: 3,212
    edited July 2009
    You get alot of Carver recs here, because they are fairly easy to find and are relatively inexpensive. I like the way they sound in comparison to amps I've heard, but many don't.

    Combo rig:

    Onkyo NR1007 pre-pro, Carver TFM 45(fronts), Carver TFM 35 (surrounds)
    SDA 1C, CS400i, SDA 2B
    PB13Ultra RO
    BW Silvers
    Oppo BDP-83SE
  • nacam
    nacam Posts: 56
    edited July 2009
    F1nut wrote: »
    Hardly.

    I'd say Adcom gets the most recommendations along with the other usual suspects, Rotel and NAD.

    All will work, but there are much better choices. Specs can help guide you, but they will not tell you what the amp sounds like or if it will have synergy with the rest of your gear. Pro amps, just forget about them.

    So, what is the rest of your gear and how much money are you looking to spend?

    Well the TL1.2's are downstairs as part of my home studio setup. "She" would never allow such monsters to be part of the decor upstairs so I had to settle for a pair of B&W DM603's for the living room.

    My signal path would be mostly coming from purley digital sources like MP3(yuck), ripped CD's, and tracked audio usually at high sample rates (92khz, 24-bit). From the computer I am going into an RME Fireface 800, then out of the D/A's balanced line ins of a Mackie mixing board then balanced out to (for now) my Yamaha P-2200, then out to the 1.2s (no processing in between). It's doing the job, but I am a little afraid to throw more than 75-100 watts from the Yamaha to the Polks due to it's age. I've been waiting too long (24 years) to get my hands on a pair of these to fry them with an amp I got for free.

    My plan was to run a pair a balanced lines to the amp across the room to the amp driving them to cut down on the powered speaker wire length which is why I am sort of looking for something with balanced (XLR) ins, but not a show stopper. I put in an inquiry for a locally used Rotel RB985 MK2 which I could use the 4 channels to Bi-Amp these at 4 ohms correct? It's rated at 100Wx5 continous @ 8 ohms. Would this work?

    Sorry for the noob questions. Just want to get the most out of these beauties!

    Cheers;
    Nacam
    2 Channel Basement Setup:
    PC With M-Audio Audiophile 24/96 Card
    Rotel RC-1070
    Rotel RB-1090
    Polk Audio SDA SRS 1.2TL (1991) w/RD0-198 Tweeters.
  • snow
    snow Posts: 4,337
    edited July 2009
    Since you asked :D My oppinion is this..... for the most bang for the buck get a Sunfire 300 X 2 I have had Adcom's Carver's Proton's Marantz"s a Bedini 250wpc class A amp and several more various brands running my 1.2tl's and the Sunfire 300 has been the best of them all. It doesnt break a sweat no matter how hard I push it, very dynamic sounding more on the neutral side of warm sounding but not sterile.



    REGARDS SNOW
    Well, I just pulled off the impossible by doing a double-blind comparison all by myself, purely by virtue of the fact that I completely and stupidly forgot what I did last. I guess that getting old does have its advantages after all :D
  • thuffman03
    thuffman03 Posts: 1,325
    edited July 2009
    I have heard a set of SDA SRS's with a pair of Carver TFM 35's and they sounded wonderful.

    Most common ground amps should do fine though. But since I am Carver bias I would go that route. One TFM 35 might be fine but I have not had the pleasure of heaing that model so...my recomendation should be added to someone who has had a set.
    Sunfire TGP, Sunfire Cinema Grand, Sunfire 300~2 (2), Sunfire True Sub (2),Carver ALS Platinum, Carver AL III, TFM-55, C-19, C-9, TX-8, SDA-490t, SDA-390t
  • beemer
    beemer Posts: 155
    edited July 2009
    Don't let 'em tell you a pro amp can't make those 1.2's sound good. Get yourself a QSC PLX 3402 used and never look back. Tight, fast and clean. I have 1.2tl's and this woke them up. The speakers came with a pair of 200W/ch Denon POA 2200's. A single PLX 3402 won that contest hands down.

    Pace, rhythm, timing all improved. Damping factor of the PLX is greater then 500. You are spot on about your thoughts on damping factor. Any amp can move a cone speaker.

    I have since sold the Denons. I have a pair of 3402's that are not going anywhere soon.

    Last but not least.....the 3402 is common ground. No problem with the SDA cable. :D

    Best,

    Paul
    Main system: Levinson Reference 32 Preamp/30.6 DAC/31.5 Transport/Sony SCD777ES/VPI Aries w/SDS JMW 10.5 arm/Van den Hul Frog/Levinson 33 Monoblocks/33H Monoblocks/Transparent reference XL interconnect & Speaker cable/Nearfield Acoustics Pipedream Reference 18 Line Array.
    Bedroom: Levinson 390S/380S/ML3/Sony SCD 777ES/McIntosh MC2000/Infinity IRS-Beta
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,748
    edited July 2009
    Damping factor of the PLX is greater then 500. You are spot on about your thoughts on damping factor.

    Actually no, not spot on. There is such a thing as having too much damping and IMO, 500 is way too much. I had an amp at one time that boasted a damping factor of 1000. It sucked at controlling the drivers. Then there's things like tube amps with a damping factor of 10 that control drivers perfectly. It's really a spec with little value.

    BTW, it's easy to better those Denon amps.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • nacam
    nacam Posts: 56
    edited July 2009
    One more question would be

    Bi Amping these:

    This involves simply removing the jumpers on the HF/LF terminals and hooking them up to seperate amps right?

    Does this drop the ohm load the amp sees to 4 or something lower?

    Cheers;
    Nacam
    2 Channel Basement Setup:
    PC With M-Audio Audiophile 24/96 Card
    Rotel RC-1070
    Rotel RB-1090
    Polk Audio SDA SRS 1.2TL (1991) w/RD0-198 Tweeters.
  • concealer404
    concealer404 Posts: 7,440
    edited July 2009
    There's a Hafler XL600 here in Indy for a relatively decent price, if you want ridiculous power.
    I don't read the newsssspaperssss because dey aaaallllllllll...... have ugly print.

    Living Room: B&K Reference 5 S2 / Parasound HCA-1000A / Emotiva XDA-2 / Pioneer BDP-51FD / Paradigm 11se MKiii

    Desk: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / ISK HD9999

    Office: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / Dynaco SCA-80Q / Paradigm Legend V.3

    HT: Denon AVR-X3400H / Sony UBP-X700 / RT16 / CS350LS / RT7 / SVS PB1000
  • nacam
    nacam Posts: 56
    edited July 2009
    I picked up that Rotel RB-985 MK2 tonight. The price was right and it is in MINT condition. It's claims are 5x100W @ 8 ohms. I fully tested it before purchasing it and it was clear as a bell. The guy I bought it from had no problems hooking it up to his very expensive looking speakers (didn't catch the brand and didn't ask but they were strange looking, side firing subs, twin 3" mids and ribbon tweeters) and cranked it up testing all 5 channels. In his other room he had some Totem Mani2 Signatures which he was also selling so his mains must be his pride and joy. Planning on using 4 of the 5 channels to bi-amp my 1.2's. Without thinking before I bought it, does anyone know if this amp is "common ground" or not?

    Keeping my fingers crossed......
    2 Channel Basement Setup:
    PC With M-Audio Audiophile 24/96 Card
    Rotel RC-1070
    Rotel RB-1090
    Polk Audio SDA SRS 1.2TL (1991) w/RD0-198 Tweeters.
  • beemer
    beemer Posts: 155
    edited July 2009
    F1nut wrote: »
    Actually no, not spot on. There is such a thing as having too much damping and IMO, 500 is way too much. I had an amp at one time that boasted a damping factor of 1000. It sucked at controlling the drivers. Then there's things like tube amps with a damping factor of 10 that control drivers perfectly. It's really a spec with little value.

    BTW, it's easy to better those Denon amps.

    Hello F1nut:

    We'll have to agree to disagree then. In my world damping factor is critical. I hate to touch on the darling of the Polkie world Carver amps however in listening tests here the QSC's also outperformed several different Carver offerings that shall go unnamed as not to offend. IMHO, my Crown Macro-Tech 5000VZ can take the 1.2tl's to an even higher level of control than the 3402, and the Crown has a damping factor of greater the 1000.

    As to tube amps......I have a McIntosh MC2000 here that does a wonderful job on Infinity IRS-Beta mid/hi panels. I would not consider using it on 1.2TL's or as a LF amp for the Infinities. I have heard relatively few tube amps that I would consider viable contenders for woofer control.

    I speak only from actual experience with every item I recommend from my own use and ownership.

    It's truly wonderful that there is so much variety out there for our ears to choose from. Choose wisely.

    Best,

    Paul
    Main system: Levinson Reference 32 Preamp/30.6 DAC/31.5 Transport/Sony SCD777ES/VPI Aries w/SDS JMW 10.5 arm/Van den Hul Frog/Levinson 33 Monoblocks/33H Monoblocks/Transparent reference XL interconnect & Speaker cable/Nearfield Acoustics Pipedream Reference 18 Line Array.
    Bedroom: Levinson 390S/380S/ML3/Sony SCD 777ES/McIntosh MC2000/Infinity IRS-Beta
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,748
    edited July 2009
    Well, you can agree to disagree all you want, but the facts are not in your favor.

    A damping factor of 10 is more than adequate to control any driver(s) and in fact it is a myth that a low damping factor, say 10, has any bearing on the control of the driver(s) verses a really high damping factor of say 500. If the damping factor is less than 10, then there may be some concerns, but even that depends on a multitude of variables of which I won't get into right now.

    Now, those amps that claim really high damping factors also have to own the fact that they can only do so by applying huge amounts of negative feedback and lots of negative feedback means greater phase shift issues and the greater the phase shift issues, the greater the distortion and greater distortion results in less detail. Hence my comment that there is such a thing as having too much damping.

    You should seriously reconsider using your Mac amp with your SDA's. You may be pleasantly surprised.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • beemer
    beemer Posts: 155
    edited July 2009
    F1nut wrote: »
    Well, you can agree to disagree all you want, but the facts are not in your favor.

    A damping factor of 10 is more than adequate to control any driver(s) and in fact it is a myth that a low damping factor, say 10, has any bearing on the control of the driver(s) verses a really high damping factor of say 500. If the damping factor is less than 10, then there may be some concerns, but even that depends on a multitude of variables of which I won't get into right now.

    Now, those amps that claim really high damping factors also have to own the fact that they can only do so by applying huge amounts of negative feedback and lots of negative feedback means greater phase shift issues and the greater the phase shift issues, the greater the distortion and greater distortion results in less detail. Hence my comment that there is such a thing as having too much damping.

    You should seriously reconsider using your Mac amp with your SDA's. You may be pleasantly surprised.

    Once again my listening impressions do not align with yours. I find amplifiers without sufficient control over woofers to be quite dull. Pace, rhythm and timing come into play as well. The QSC's nor the Crowns lack detail. According to your thoughts I should reconsider every amp I own, including additional amplifiers from Levinson, Krell and Classe, as these all have considerable damping factor. The only amps I own that fall in the low damping category would be the McIntosh and a venerable Nakamichi PA-7, which has a damping factor of less than 60. This PA-7 shines in the midrange, however it shows little control over the 1.2tl's and turns the bass into a sloppy mess, as I find do most amps with low damping. The 3402 has far greater detail, and is far faster, IE....Pace, rhythm and timing once again. I'm thinking that your facts and mine perhaps are existing in parallel universes.

    Once again, I will agree to disagree.

    Best,

    Paul
    Main system: Levinson Reference 32 Preamp/30.6 DAC/31.5 Transport/Sony SCD777ES/VPI Aries w/SDS JMW 10.5 arm/Van den Hul Frog/Levinson 33 Monoblocks/33H Monoblocks/Transparent reference XL interconnect & Speaker cable/Nearfield Acoustics Pipedream Reference 18 Line Array.
    Bedroom: Levinson 390S/380S/ML3/Sony SCD 777ES/McIntosh MC2000/Infinity IRS-Beta
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,748
    edited July 2009
    Do yourself a favor and hit up Google or somesuch for info on damping factors and how it affects the end result. There is considerably more to it than you seem to think.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • beemer
    beemer Posts: 155
    edited July 2009
    F1nut wrote: »
    Do yourself a favor and hit up Google or somesuch for info on damping factors and how it affects the end result. There is considerably more to it than you seem to think.

    Indeed, however after being involved in this crazy hobby since the "receiver wars" back in the 70's I prefer to let my ears decide what sounds good. They haven't let me down yet. :D

    Once again, my universe regarding sound and yours appear to be parallel to each other. ;)

    Best,

    Paul
    Main system: Levinson Reference 32 Preamp/30.6 DAC/31.5 Transport/Sony SCD777ES/VPI Aries w/SDS JMW 10.5 arm/Van den Hul Frog/Levinson 33 Monoblocks/33H Monoblocks/Transparent reference XL interconnect & Speaker cable/Nearfield Acoustics Pipedream Reference 18 Line Array.
    Bedroom: Levinson 390S/380S/ML3/Sony SCD 777ES/McIntosh MC2000/Infinity IRS-Beta
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,215
    edited July 2009
    beemer wrote: »
    Once again my listening impressions do not align with yours. I find amplifiers without sufficient control over woofers to be quite dull. Pace, rhythm and timing come into play as well. The QSC's nor the Crowns lack detail. According to your thoughts I should reconsider every amp I own, including additional amplifiers from Levinson, Krell and Classe, as these all have considerable damping factor. The only amps I own that fall in the low damping category would be the McIntosh and a venerable Nakamichi PA-7, which has a damping factor of less than 60. This PA-7 shines in the midrange, however it shows little control over the 1.2tl's and turns the bass into a sloppy mess, as I find do most amps with low damping. The 3402 has far greater detail, and is far faster, IE....Pace, rhythm and timing once again. I'm thinking that your facts and mine perhaps are existing in parallel universes.

    Once again, I will agree to disagree.

    Best,

    Paul

    If the Nak PA7 is a "sloppy mess" then you have issues else where. The PA7 is a superb amp, especially with SDA's. I agree 100% with F1. Specs are there as a road map but there are way too many variables to use them strictly to make a choice. I understand you like what you like, but your correlation is a little off IMO. You may like the pro amps better with your ears..........but the reasons don't have anything to do with some of the terms you are using to state why you dislike the Nak, Levinson and Mac.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited July 2009
    beemer wrote: »
    In my world damping factor is critical.
    Don't forget those really big DF numbers cease to exist once the speaker cables resistance gets added to the equation.
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • beemer
    beemer Posts: 155
    edited July 2009
    heiney9 wrote: »
    If the Nak PA7 is a "sloppy mess" then you have issues else where. The PA7 is a superb amp, especially with SDA's. I agree 100% with F1. Specs are there as a road map but there are way too many variables to use them strictly to make a choice. I understand you like what you like, but your correlation is a little off IMO. You may like the pro amps better with your ears..........but the reasons don't have anything to do with some of the terms you are using to state why you dislike the Nak, Levinson and Mac.

    H9

    I do not dislike the Nak, the Levinson or the Mac. You misread my post. Yes, the PA7 plays "nicely" on the 1.2tl's, my point is I have heard better. Most folks wouldn't call it a sloppy mess, however that's my opinion after hearing the speakers powered with with a better amp. My standards are high. Does the PA7 sound "good"? Yes. However would you put a throttle stop on your Ferrari? Or tires that did not match up with the performance characteristics of the car? The Ferrari will still be an amazing performer with 70% throttle, however you would never know the true potential available.
    GV#27 wrote: »
    Don't forget those really big DF numbers cease to exist once the speaker cables resistance gets added to the equation.

    Correct. Also do not forget that those really low DF #'s are also reduced by the same resistance.


    I seriously doubt that anyone besides myself and my friends who have visited my home has heard a PLX 3402 driving 1.2tl's. :cool: It sure looks to me that no one here has tried it.

    Best,

    Paul
    Main system: Levinson Reference 32 Preamp/30.6 DAC/31.5 Transport/Sony SCD777ES/VPI Aries w/SDS JMW 10.5 arm/Van den Hul Frog/Levinson 33 Monoblocks/33H Monoblocks/Transparent reference XL interconnect & Speaker cable/Nearfield Acoustics Pipedream Reference 18 Line Array.
    Bedroom: Levinson 390S/380S/ML3/Sony SCD 777ES/McIntosh MC2000/Infinity IRS-Beta
  • kawizx9r
    kawizx9r Posts: 5,150
    edited July 2009
    Just like to add that the Moscode 600 driving 1.2tl's I've heard definitely pounded with authority. Comtemporary music, instrumentals everything came in loud, clear, natural and very warm sounding. Wanted to add some input on the "amps driving 1.2tl's" scene. I personally own a pair of SDA 1C's and I get all that same rich and warmth sound as well behind a Moscode 300 and am very pleased with the results :D although sound quality isn't up to par really...he's got much better speaker cables/IC's and a tube pre so yea.
    Truck setup
    Alpine 9856
    Phoenix Gold RSD65CS

    For Sale
    Polk SR6500
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    heiney9 wrote: »
    Any clue how to use the internet? Found it in about 10 sec.
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited July 2009
    beemer wrote: »



    Correct. Also do not forget that those really low DF #'s are also reduced by the same resistance.

    But the percentage of change(reduction)is far greater with high DF #'s.

    For instance an amp with say a DF = 800(8 ohm load/.01 ohm output impedance) .If you add .2 ohm's of resistance for the speaker cable then the resulting DF (8 ohm's/.01 ohm's +.2 ohms) will equal 38.


    Whwereas an amp with a DF= 80(8/.1 ).
    adding .2 ohm's for the speaker cable gets you(8/.1+.2) DF= 26.6


    While having a certain amount of DF is necessary IMO ultra high DF is not a good indicator of sound quality.
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,215
    edited July 2009
    GV#27 wrote: »
    While having a certain amount of DF is necessary IMO ultra high DF is not a good indicator of sound quality.

    It's not really an indicator of sound quality at all, it also doesn;t make the amp cleaner or faster, etc, etc. Way too many other variables to single out a couple of specs printed on a piece of paper.....as you well know GV, not responding to you directly but to the OP as I know you already agree with me.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,104
    edited July 2009
    F1nut wrote: »
    Now, those amps that claim really high damping factors also have to own the fact that they can only do so by applying huge amounts of negative feedback and lots of negative feedback means greater phase shift issues and the greater the phase shift issues, the greater the distortion and greater distortion results in less detail.
    I need some education.

    I'm aware that negative feedback is commonly used to decrease some forms of measured distortion.

    I did not know that negative feedback could affect damping factor.

    I though damping factor was a result of power vs. output impedance; and output impedance was more a result of the power supply than of negative feedback.

    Am I wrong? How does negative feedback affect damping factor?
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited July 2009
    Schurkey wrote: »
    I did not know that negative feedback could affect damping factor.
    Negative feedback can decrease output impedance thus increase DF.
    and output impedance was more a result of the power supply than of negative feedback.
    No its the impedance of the output stage that determines output impedance not the power supply.
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,748
    edited July 2009
    How does negative feedback affect damping factor?

    For a technical explanation I would suggest an online search as that is beyond my knowledge level.
    ultra high DF is not a good indicator of sound quality.

    Point, match, set.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • snow
    snow Posts: 4,337
    edited July 2009
    One of the problems I have seen with pro amps is they dont sound very musical as a whole, in fact most sound rather harsh. the distortion level at is usally higher on these because in the settings they are designed for it doesnt really matter. The S/N ratio is usally much lower also. Your QSC amp may sound good to your ears Paul and if so bully for you thats all that really matters. I noticed you mentioned pace rhythm etc with your QSC amp versus the Denon POA amps. I think what you may be hearing here with your QSC versus the Denons is a increase in current, if you can provide high current on demand for the transients it makes the music come alive faster tighter.

    I feel that for me at least a high quality home audio amp is a better choice you can still get plenty of wpc, current with one but get a much cleaner more musical end result.



    REGARDS SNOW
    Well, I just pulled off the impossible by doing a double-blind comparison all by myself, purely by virtue of the fact that I completely and stupidly forgot what I did last. I guess that getting old does have its advantages after all :D
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,748
    edited July 2009
    Errrr....I hate this edit time limit!!! That should read point, set, match.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • beemer
    beemer Posts: 155
    edited July 2009
    snow wrote: »
    One of the problems I have seen with pro amps is they dont sound very musical as a whole, in fact most sound rather harsh. the distortion level at is usally higher on these because in the settings they are designed for it doesnt really matter. The S/N ratio is usally much lower also. Your QSC amp may sound good to your ears Paul and if so bully for you thats all that really matters. I noticed you mentioned pace rhythm etc with your QSC amp versus the Denon POA amps. I think what you may be hearing here with your QSC versus the Denons is a increase in current, if you can provide high current on demand for the transients it makes the music come alive faster tighter.

    I feel that for me at least a high quality home audio amp is a better choice you can still get plenty of wpc, current with one but get a much cleaner more musical end result.

    REGARDS SNOW

    Agreed. Many "Pro" amps just plain do not sound good, however just as many do. My only issue here is I toss out something that sounds excellent as an option to folks here, yet speculation abounds, and not one other poster besides myself has heard the setup in question, yet many are ready to cut it down without even hearing it! Bahhh.

    Paul
    Main system: Levinson Reference 32 Preamp/30.6 DAC/31.5 Transport/Sony SCD777ES/VPI Aries w/SDS JMW 10.5 arm/Van den Hul Frog/Levinson 33 Monoblocks/33H Monoblocks/Transparent reference XL interconnect & Speaker cable/Nearfield Acoustics Pipedream Reference 18 Line Array.
    Bedroom: Levinson 390S/380S/ML3/Sony SCD 777ES/McIntosh MC2000/Infinity IRS-Beta