Help With My Setup!?

vh5150 · July 2009

Hi guys - I'm a noob here and I have a couple questions regarding my proposed system that I hope you can help me with. My system is going into my 05 350Z roadster. I have a set of SR6500's, a sealed sub enclosure with a single 10" Image Dynamics sub to replace the POS Bose crap, a Pioneer 880PRS HU, and a PA1100.5 for my amp.

First, my goal is for the best SQ. I plan on running the SR's in the kick panels. Should I run them active off of the 880PRS, passive with the Polk xovers, or run bi-amped? Is there a real difference in SQ between either choice? (I realize its a roadster and there's only so much I can do). Anyway, it's my understanding that when going active or bi-amped, you are supplying each mid and tweeter with it's own amp channel (i.e. ch. 1 and 2 for the tweets, 3 and 4 for the midbass). Is that the correct way to go?. I would appreciate any and all info or suggestions. Thanks to all in advance.:D

Mike

bigaudiofanatic · July 2009

If you have the time and patience go active also you will need a 4 channel amp for doing this. If you are looking for awesome SQ go with Image Dynamics instead much richer sound you will get. As for amps audison is a great SQ one out there. If you go active you will not use your crossovers at all. Your tweeters will go directly to the amp and the same for your woofers each tweet and woofer will have it's own output on the amp. If you need more help of guidance just let me know.

vh5150 · July 2009

Can I accomplish this by using the front and rear channels of the PA1100.5?

arun1963 · July 2009

yes you can. However a 4ch amp for the sr's + a mono block for the sub would be a better but slightly more expensive option. It depends on your budget.

The pa1100.5 gives 80watts rms @ 4ohm to the sr6500 drivers and 280watts @ 4ohm or 600watts @ 2ohm to the sub. Based on your sub selection you would have to see if the 280/600 watts would be enough. Thats why I recomended a seperate mono amp.

For subs you can also look at the sr 104dvc if you want a 10"

hearingimpared · July 2009

Welcome to Club Polk vh5150!

vh5150 · July 2009

bump...any other advice? i have all of the equipment. MacLeod, you out there?

cadenceclipse · July 2009

pa1100.5's a fine amp and will do your ID 10 some serious justice. is it 2 ohm or 4 how much power rms?

Bi-amp and go active along w/ crossovers (for tweets, i believe. i know its been posted here somewhere. mac knows. hes coming..

MacLeod · July 2009

Gonna have to agree with what everybody else is saying. Bi-amping is the way to go.

The 1100.5 is a great amp and will work just fine. Just make sure you get a sub with dual 4 ohm voice coils to take full advantage of the 1100.5's power and make sure youre using big enough power and ground wires. 1/0 gauge all around.

The best option is to go active thru your head unit if it has the proper crossovers. If not, the SR6500's come with a quite excellent passive crossover that is biampable which would work just fine. The only limitation to using the passive is that you cant tweak on it by trying different crossover frequencies.

Personally Id go with an upper end Alpine head unit that has a 3 way crossover and time alignment. You can dial in a VERY good sounding system with one of these. I competed all thru 2006 with nothing but an Alpine 9855 for EQ'ing and processing.

vh5150 · July 2009

Thanks Mac. I already have the HU. I know the 880-PRS has xovers to go full active ( I just need to see what kind) and it also does have TA. Mac & Cadenceclipse - other than fine tweaking, is there any real SQ difference between going full active and going bi-amp and active? Thank you everyone for your invaluable info!

MacLeod · July 2009

Nope. Only difference is tuning flexibility. So ultimately you could get better sound quality out of active but thats the only reason theyll be different.

vh5150 · July 2009

Mac / Cadenceclipse - So how do I go bi-amp AND active with the SR's passives?

cadenceclipse · July 2009

mac, doesn't the 880 have the same crossovers as alpine??

mac of course is the SR wizard but if i remember, your using the passive only for tweets. wait a minute.. if ur going active and bi-amp, 1 don't think u need the passives..i mean passives are 4 HPF on tweet and LPF on mid, right? 880 has those settings not 2 mention bi-amping will give u seperate amp crossovers...don't think u need passives, can't see why, but, again, macs coming, i can feel it..

arun1963 · July 2009

To be active you have to be bi-amped. Its not and.

When you bi-amp you give each driver its own amp channel. Instead of a pair of drivers sharing a channel.

In passive mode, the xover sets the point at which the signal is split. This is a set point which you cant change. If the xover splits the signal at 3.5khz, all freq below 3.5khz would go to the mids and the ones above 3.5 to the tweet. In active mode you can define this point.

So you could xover higher, which is normally better. It gives the sound more 'air'. The highs and upper mids sound more natural and open. So from bi-amp mode all youve done is to set the network at the hu and taken the xovers out of the path. You cant be active without being bi-amped.

vh5150 · July 2009

Another question - should I run at 4 ohms or 2 ohms? My amp is rated @ 85x4 / 280x1 @ 4 ohms or 125x4 / 600x1 @ 2 ohms. Thanks again!

cadenceclipse · July 2009

if you run sr6500s to CH 1 and 2 they will see 85w each, (prob more like 90w). if u give each speaker its own channel(bi-amp)(ch 1 and 2 for tweets, ch 3 and 4 for mids) they will also each see 85w(or 90w) each. they r 4ohm speakers not 2ohm. so 4get 2ohm, unless your sub is 2ohm, then 4ohm (85w/channel) for components, and 600 for sub, unless its 4ohm, then your whole system is 4ohm and sub will see 280(prob more like 300)

vh5150 · July 2009

Thanks cadence!

arun1963 · July 2009

if you run sr6500s to CH 1 and 2 they will see 85w each, (prob more like 90w). if u give each speaker its own channel(bi-amp)(ch 1 and 2 for tweets, ch 3 and 4 for mids) they will also each see 85w(or 90w) each.

Slight correction If you hook your speakers to 2 channels each speaker, that is a mid and a tweet would share 90 watts. When you bi-amp each driver would get 90 watts.

Buy a dvc and hook it up to show a 2 ohm load to the amp.

cadenceclipse · July 2009

thats what i said arun just not the same way and probably less clearly, so yeah your way is actuallly more technicallly correct, though i think he got the point..

think he already has a (nice) sub, which doesn't need to b DVC and may as well already b 2 ohm(and dvc). (i mean 4 ohm +4ohm, arun)

MacLeod · July 2009

Run the subwoofer output at 2 ohms for the extra power by using a DVC sub. The front and rear channels will see a 4 ohm load unless you hook up 2 speakers to each output.

cadenceclipse · July 2009

couldn't he just run a SVC 2ohm sub? wouldn't that only matter if it was a stereo amp(channel), not mono.

and 2 speakers per channel always wished i could take advantage of my amp that way, though don't really see a point anymore, unless i'm amping something like a limo or a bus, anything else only needs front stage

MacLeod · July 2009

cadenceclipse wrote: »

couldn't he just run a SVC 2ohm sub? wouldn't that only matter if it was a stereo amp(channel), not mono.

Yeah, same thing. A dual 4 ohm voice coil sub or a single 2 ohm voice coil sub.....but I dont think they make those. Either way, it would present a 2 ohm load to the amp.

vh5150 · August 2009

Last thing..... I have an Optima yellow top battery and have recently installed a grounding kit. Do I need to run a capacitor?

MacLeod · August 2009

Nope

vh5150 · August 2009

Thanks, Mac!

Systems · August 2009

One word on the 880PRS. That head unit doesn't like to be screwed around with while power is connected to the unit. It has tiny fuses/pico resistors that will blow easily. I know, I have the same HU. Be sure to disconnect the battery power to the 880 before messing with the RCA's going to the amp or at the amp. Make sure there are no possible ways for the RCA's to ground at anytime. Cap any unused RCA's behind the dash. Its a great HU but can be very picky. Take the time to have your amp's gains set properly. I like to use a scope for this to be sure and not clip the signal. The 880 can take some practice and paitence to set-up properly. Once this is done you'll be amazed at the SQ from your system. You may even want to find a local dealer for the 880 and who is familiar with it and have them do an initial set-up for you. Record the values at each audio setting before you mess with adjustments. I thought I was hearing some good tunes from my system, until I walked into my dealer and was looking at some new comps from HERTZ (Millie). The lead guy there had a listen to my set-up, suggested I bring it back as soon as I installed my new comps and let him do all the adjustments for me @ $65 an hour (took 1 hour). Money well spent. Besides, his car has won the SQ in his division at CES & SEMA for the past few years. And he uses the 880 in his builds. Just my thoughts.

vh5150 · August 2009

Forgot to ask.....Do I even need to use the remote bass knob for the PA1100.5?

cadenceclipse · August 2009

+no+

tk421 · August 2009

vh5150 = van halen 5150 ? hehe .. cool name

vh5150 · September 2009

OK..I removed my IDQ sub from the enclosure to verify which version I have. It's the older D4 v.2. It's wired for 2ohms, all connections soldered. Can I still run this with the sub channel off the PA1100.5? I mean the specs on the amp are 280x1 @ 4 or 600x1 @ 1ohm. So, would 2 ohms be right about 400+ watts? How would I run the sub channel at 2ohms? Mac......Cadence.....Arun??? Thanks.

vh5150 · September 2009

Sorry...forgot to add, the IDQ10 has an RMS of 250 watts / program power handling (??peak??) of 500watts.

vh5150 · September 2009

anyone?

Help With My Setup!?

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