SDA SRS 2.3TL problem / questions
RCFGuitars
Posts: 159
Ive been searching threads for answers to a similar problem, and I was able to get quite a bit of info from a recent post by vmaxer. However, I still have a couple of questions that I hope some of you SDA experts can help me answer, and/or offer some suggestions.
Ive had these 2.3TLs for a couple of weeks now. When I have run them 2 ch. stereo, as opposed to part of the HT setup, I have also run my subs, with the TLs crossed over at 80Hz. I had no trouble producing high decibels without distortion.
Yesterday, I sold my 2 subs in anticipation of a new pair on the way. I set up my system to run without subs, with the full range going to the 2.3TLs. They sounded fine until I started to turn it up to see how they performed at high volume on their own. When I reached a substantial volume level, but a level lower than the levels previously attained with the subs, all hell seemed to break loose. The mid drivers started popping, it sounded like tweeters were coming in and out, and the imaging was coming and going. It also seemed to me that the 15 passive was not moving in and out a great deal. When I turned up my SDA2s, the 12 really moved. Talk about a sick feeling in my stomach.
Heres what Ive checked so far:
The Adcom amp is not clipping. Or if it is, the front indicator lights are not showing it. I realize that the Adcom is not common ground, but the neg. terminals of the fronts are strapped together per Adcoms instruction.
The auto set up on my Yamaha checks the phase / polarity, and it says that is all okay. I have faith in this feature because it detected mis-wired drivers in my SDA2s.
EQ is flat.
I tried the 2.3TLs with another (less powerful) amp, and the same problem.
I tried different recordings and different sources.
All of the drivers are moving freely. If I push in and hold the passive radiator, all the mids push out and go back in 2-3 seconds.
Finally, I plugged my SDA 2As in without changing any settings, and they sounded great. I was able to reproduce the popping noise of the mids, but at a higher volume level than the 2.3TLs, and the noise was not as intense or pronounced.
I can only come up with 4 possible answers:
1. Even though the mid drivers are moving, one or more could be bad, or has a short at the wiring connection. But, I dont think that explains the tweeters.
2. I have an aftermarket SDA cable. Could that have something to do with the imaging problem? It does, however sound good at lower volume. (Probably not an issue, but I dont like to leave any stones unturned)
3. Crossover issue?
4. The Adcom 5503 does not have the power to run 2.3TLs full range at high volume.
Any suggestions, help, or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Ive had these 2.3TLs for a couple of weeks now. When I have run them 2 ch. stereo, as opposed to part of the HT setup, I have also run my subs, with the TLs crossed over at 80Hz. I had no trouble producing high decibels without distortion.
Yesterday, I sold my 2 subs in anticipation of a new pair on the way. I set up my system to run without subs, with the full range going to the 2.3TLs. They sounded fine until I started to turn it up to see how they performed at high volume on their own. When I reached a substantial volume level, but a level lower than the levels previously attained with the subs, all hell seemed to break loose. The mid drivers started popping, it sounded like tweeters were coming in and out, and the imaging was coming and going. It also seemed to me that the 15 passive was not moving in and out a great deal. When I turned up my SDA2s, the 12 really moved. Talk about a sick feeling in my stomach.
Heres what Ive checked so far:
The Adcom amp is not clipping. Or if it is, the front indicator lights are not showing it. I realize that the Adcom is not common ground, but the neg. terminals of the fronts are strapped together per Adcoms instruction.
The auto set up on my Yamaha checks the phase / polarity, and it says that is all okay. I have faith in this feature because it detected mis-wired drivers in my SDA2s.
EQ is flat.
I tried the 2.3TLs with another (less powerful) amp, and the same problem.
I tried different recordings and different sources.
All of the drivers are moving freely. If I push in and hold the passive radiator, all the mids push out and go back in 2-3 seconds.
Finally, I plugged my SDA 2As in without changing any settings, and they sounded great. I was able to reproduce the popping noise of the mids, but at a higher volume level than the 2.3TLs, and the noise was not as intense or pronounced.
I can only come up with 4 possible answers:
1. Even though the mid drivers are moving, one or more could be bad, or has a short at the wiring connection. But, I dont think that explains the tweeters.
2. I have an aftermarket SDA cable. Could that have something to do with the imaging problem? It does, however sound good at lower volume. (Probably not an issue, but I dont like to leave any stones unturned)
3. Crossover issue?
4. The Adcom 5503 does not have the power to run 2.3TLs full range at high volume.
Any suggestions, help, or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Primary System
Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL (RDO198,Sonicap/Dayton/Mills,CardasCCGR,Mye Spikes,DynamatX,Driver Rings,Ben's IC,Bi-Wired)
Polk Audio CSiA4 x2 (C)
Polk Audio FXiA6 (S)
Polk Audio RTiA3 (RS)
Polk Audio FXiA4 (FX)
Epik Sentinel x2
Yamaha RX-V3900
Rotel RB-1090
Rotel RMB-1095
NAD C565 BEE
Technics/KAB SL-1210M5G w/ Denon DL-160
Parasound Halo P7
OPPO BDP-83
Panasonic TC-P65V10 65" Plasma
Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL (RDO198,Sonicap/Dayton/Mills,CardasCCGR,Mye Spikes,DynamatX,Driver Rings,Ben's IC,Bi-Wired)
Polk Audio CSiA4 x2 (C)
Polk Audio FXiA6 (S)
Polk Audio RTiA3 (RS)
Polk Audio FXiA4 (FX)
Epik Sentinel x2
Yamaha RX-V3900
Rotel RB-1090
Rotel RMB-1095
NAD C565 BEE
Technics/KAB SL-1210M5G w/ Denon DL-160
Parasound Halo P7
OPPO BDP-83
Panasonic TC-P65V10 65" Plasma
Post edited by RCFGuitars on
Comments
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if both sets were doing it even at different levels your problem should not be in your 2.3's If you have a multi tester I would start by checking your 2.3's with that.
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I've never owned SDA's, so take what I have to say with a grain of salt. I'm sure someone with more experience will chime in soon.
What you are describing sounds like a power issue to me. The amp is being required to do a lot more now that you don't have a sub to help out. I know the SDA's can take a lot of power, and that Adcom amp can pump out plenty of power, but for some reason it seems to be lacking in this particular case.
Good luck tracking it down.Speakers: Polk LSi15
Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
Amp: Pass Labs X-150
CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
Cartridge:Denon DL-160
Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH -
As the previous owner of your 2.3tls I always had them run in full range and never noticed any popping or tweeter issues. Running them off my Adcom 555II they sounded great and had more bass output than my Polk Micropro 4000 sub.
Did you have the grounds tied together everytime you play the SDA's with the IC cable connected. I'm going to be down by you tomorrow if you like I can stop by and take a look for you. Did you try using the spare mid driver I gave you on the popping mids? -
Hmmm, same issue,,different speakers,,, I'm thinking,,AMP,,, be thankful that you did not blow anything, hopefully.It's been my experience with 2.3's, that the more current,and power,,current being the key word,,the better they sound,, not being familar with that particular adcom,,have you ruled out the "non common grounding issues?,,Good luck,,can you try another amp?JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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As the previous owner of your 2.3tls I always had them run in full range and never noticed any popping or tweeter issues. Running them off my Adcom 555II they sounded great and had more bass output than my Polk Micropro 4000 sub.
Did you have the grounds tied together everytime you play the SDA's with the IC cable connected. I'm going to be down by you tomorrow if you like I can stop by and take a look for you. Did you try using the spare mid driver I gave you on the popping mids?
Thank you Lee. Yes, every time I've used the 5503, I've had the grounds together. I haven't tried swapping drivers yet. It actually sounded like more than one. If we can get our schedules to work tomorrow, it would be great if you could take a listen. Another CP member in my area with 2.3tl's also offered to let me try my speakers with a bigger amp to see if that's the issue. I guess at this point I'm starting to think it's an amp/power issue.Primary System
Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL (RDO198,Sonicap/Dayton/Mills,CardasCCGR,Mye Spikes,DynamatX,Driver Rings,Ben's IC,Bi-Wired)
Polk Audio CSiA4 x2 (C)
Polk Audio FXiA6 (S)
Polk Audio RTiA3 (RS)
Polk Audio FXiA4 (FX)
Epik Sentinel x2
Yamaha RX-V3900
Rotel RB-1090
Rotel RMB-1095
NAD C565 BEE
Technics/KAB SL-1210M5G w/ Denon DL-160
Parasound Halo P7
OPPO BDP-83
Panasonic TC-P65V10 65" Plasma -
george daniel wrote: »Hmmm, same issue,,different speakers,,, I'm thinking,,AMP,,, be thankful that you did not blow anything, hopefully.It's been my experience with 2.3's, that the more current,and power,,current being the key word,,the better they sound,, not being familar with that particular adcom,,have you ruled out the "non common grounding issues?,,Good luck,,can you try another amp?
I did try running them with my Yamaha AVR, 140wpc/8ohm, and had the same issue.Primary System
Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL (RDO198,Sonicap/Dayton/Mills,CardasCCGR,Mye Spikes,DynamatX,Driver Rings,Ben's IC,Bi-Wired)
Polk Audio CSiA4 x2 (C)
Polk Audio FXiA6 (S)
Polk Audio RTiA3 (RS)
Polk Audio FXiA4 (FX)
Epik Sentinel x2
Yamaha RX-V3900
Rotel RB-1090
Rotel RMB-1095
NAD C565 BEE
Technics/KAB SL-1210M5G w/ Denon DL-160
Parasound Halo P7
OPPO BDP-83
Panasonic TC-P65V10 65" Plasma -
if both sets were doing it even at different levels your problem should not be in your 2.3's If you have a multi tester I would start by checking your 2.3's with that.
I do have a multi tester. Should I start by checking the impedance of each driver?Primary System
Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL (RDO198,Sonicap/Dayton/Mills,CardasCCGR,Mye Spikes,DynamatX,Driver Rings,Ben's IC,Bi-Wired)
Polk Audio CSiA4 x2 (C)
Polk Audio FXiA6 (S)
Polk Audio RTiA3 (RS)
Polk Audio FXiA4 (FX)
Epik Sentinel x2
Yamaha RX-V3900
Rotel RB-1090
Rotel RMB-1095
NAD C565 BEE
Technics/KAB SL-1210M5G w/ Denon DL-160
Parasound Halo P7
OPPO BDP-83
Panasonic TC-P65V10 65" Plasma -
RCFGuitars wrote: »I do have a multi tester. Should I start by checking the impedance of each driver?
Start with the impedance of both speakers and if you get any discrepancies then start pulling individual drivers. I really don't know what could happen to a crossover all the sudden like that do do what you say it did. You might also pull the jumpers (to bi-amp them) and that way you can troubleshoot the hi and low frequencies separate. -
also you might have a bad speaker cable / wire. or a connection in the crossovers. I would also try a completely different rig (source, pre, and amp) with different wires and IC's and check all your connection real well.
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Start with the impedance of both speakers and if you get any discrepancies then start pulling individual drivers. I really don't know what could happen to a crossover all the sudden like that do do what you say it did. You might also pull the jumpers (to bi-amp them) and that way you can troubleshoot the hi and low frequencies separate.
That's a good idea. I'll try bi-amping them when I get home tonight. I can do that with my AVR if I disconnect my rear surrounds. If it's a power issue, that should also make a difference.Primary System
Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL (RDO198,Sonicap/Dayton/Mills,CardasCCGR,Mye Spikes,DynamatX,Driver Rings,Ben's IC,Bi-Wired)
Polk Audio CSiA4 x2 (C)
Polk Audio FXiA6 (S)
Polk Audio RTiA3 (RS)
Polk Audio FXiA4 (FX)
Epik Sentinel x2
Yamaha RX-V3900
Rotel RB-1090
Rotel RMB-1095
NAD C565 BEE
Technics/KAB SL-1210M5G w/ Denon DL-160
Parasound Halo P7
OPPO BDP-83
Panasonic TC-P65V10 65" Plasma -
also do you still have the original pollyswitches on them? could account your tweeters going in and out at high levels.
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also do you still have the original pollyswitches on them? could account your tweeters going in and out at high levels.
As far as I know, the internals are 100% stock. Are the pollyswitches part of the tweeter itself? I am planning to install RDO-198's in the very near future.Primary System
Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL (RDO198,Sonicap/Dayton/Mills,CardasCCGR,Mye Spikes,DynamatX,Driver Rings,Ben's IC,Bi-Wired)
Polk Audio CSiA4 x2 (C)
Polk Audio FXiA6 (S)
Polk Audio RTiA3 (RS)
Polk Audio FXiA4 (FX)
Epik Sentinel x2
Yamaha RX-V3900
Rotel RB-1090
Rotel RMB-1095
NAD C565 BEE
Technics/KAB SL-1210M5G w/ Denon DL-160
Parasound Halo P7
OPPO BDP-83
Panasonic TC-P65V10 65" Plasma -
no pollyswitches are on the crossover the 2.3tl's have 4 they're a self resetting switch that if it gets too much current it will heat up and shut off the supply to the tweeter, good idea only problem is after 20 years they start to go out at lower current than they're supposed to and tweets will cut in and out or go out altogether. They are a thin yellow round disc about 1/4" width two legs coming out.
You can take them out and by-pass them or Polk will send you new ones for free. -
no pollyswitches are on the crossover the 2.3tl's have 4 they're a self resetting switch that if it gets too much current it will heat up and shut off the supply to the tweeter, good idea only problem is after 20 years they start to go out at lower current than they're supposed to and tweets will cut in and out or go out altogether. They are a thin yellow round disc about 1/4" width two legs coming out.
You can take them out and by-pass them or Polk will send you new ones for free.
That is great info! Thank you. I'll check those out as well. I think it's inevitable that at some point I will be getting the crossover mods that many here already have, but first things first.Primary System
Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL (RDO198,Sonicap/Dayton/Mills,CardasCCGR,Mye Spikes,DynamatX,Driver Rings,Ben's IC,Bi-Wired)
Polk Audio CSiA4 x2 (C)
Polk Audio FXiA6 (S)
Polk Audio RTiA3 (RS)
Polk Audio FXiA4 (FX)
Epik Sentinel x2
Yamaha RX-V3900
Rotel RB-1090
Rotel RMB-1095
NAD C565 BEE
Technics/KAB SL-1210M5G w/ Denon DL-160
Parasound Halo P7
OPPO BDP-83
Panasonic TC-P65V10 65" Plasma -
Good luck with the issue. I am waiting to get my new tweeters to continue the troubleshooting process.Pio Elete Pro 520
Panamax 5400-EX
Sunfire TGP 5
Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
PS Audio GCPH phono pre
Sunfire CG 200 X 5
Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
OPPO BDP-83 SE
SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
Ctr CS1000p
Sur - FX1000 x 4
SUB - SVS PB2-Plus
Workkout room:
Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
Onkyo TX-DS898
GFA 555
Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
Ft - SDA 1C
Not being used:
RTi 38's -4
RT55i's - 2
RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
LSI 15's
CSi40
PSW 404 -
RCFGuitars wrote: »That is great info! Thank you. I'll check those out as well. I think it's inevitable that at some point I will be getting the crossover mods that many here already have, but first things first.
Your welcome crossover upgrades will help the sq but pollyswitch failure is fairly common on these. -
Good luck with the issue. I am waiting to get my new tweeters to continue the troubleshooting process.
Thank you, and best of luck to you as well. This forum is great, and the folks here have a lot of knowledge. I'm confident that with all the help, we'll both get our SDA's sounding the way they are supposed to.Primary System
Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL (RDO198,Sonicap/Dayton/Mills,CardasCCGR,Mye Spikes,DynamatX,Driver Rings,Ben's IC,Bi-Wired)
Polk Audio CSiA4 x2 (C)
Polk Audio FXiA6 (S)
Polk Audio RTiA3 (RS)
Polk Audio FXiA4 (FX)
Epik Sentinel x2
Yamaha RX-V3900
Rotel RB-1090
Rotel RMB-1095
NAD C565 BEE
Technics/KAB SL-1210M5G w/ Denon DL-160
Parasound Halo P7
OPPO BDP-83
Panasonic TC-P65V10 65" Plasma -
The 5503 is good for 200X3 if i remember correctly without checking my sources (internet) on it. If anything has quit on you in the guts of it, it may be seeing a 'tiring' current demand, crapping out on you and sending your 2.3's an ugly square shaped signal that your drivers are dutifully trying to reproduce, with the predictable results. Rattling/slapping drivers, tweeters going into protect mode and trying to tell you that things are not all good in the world.
The easiest thing would be to try a different amp to see if that eliminate the problem. If it doesn't fix it you are teetering on the slippery slope of troubleshooting.
The condition described sounds exactly like my Monitor 10's when I asked too much of the AVR. In a drunken stupor I thought it 'awesome' to overdrive things. Turn it down, problem solved. With my ADCOM 555II it will drive them to some pretty healthy pressure levels without sweating.
I really hope it is something easy and you are back to enjoying them right quick. My fingers are crossed for you.
Good Luck,
NathanHome Rig
SDA 2.3TL's front and center
Polk 1000p Center
Pioneer Elite SC35 Receiver (Pre/Surround
Sunfire Cinema Grand 5X200-Back in the mix.
OPPO BDP-93
Squeezebox
Stepped up to name brand Speaker Cables and interconnects!
Monitor 4, 5, 7, 10's, SDA 1B's, 2B's, 2.3TL's, RTA 15TL's all in storage waiting for me.
Sales Rating #1!! -
I'm still thinking,,amp.JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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The Adcom 5503 does not have the power to run 2.3TL’s full range at high volume.
What is high volume.....more than half on the volume knob?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
What is high volume.....more than half on the volume knob?
Sorry, I should have included that info in the OP.
I don't think my volume knob has any markings on it, but I'm sure it's got to be over half. I'm using my AVR as the pre, and the range on its volume read out is -80.0dB to +16.5dB. Running 2 channel, with the subs hooked up, 0.0dB was clean and loud. With the TL's full range, depending upon the source, things started to go crazy around -8.0dB. When I hooked up the SDA2's full range, they stayed clean until -3.0dB.Primary System
Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL (RDO198,Sonicap/Dayton/Mills,CardasCCGR,Mye Spikes,DynamatX,Driver Rings,Ben's IC,Bi-Wired)
Polk Audio CSiA4 x2 (C)
Polk Audio FXiA6 (S)
Polk Audio RTiA3 (RS)
Polk Audio FXiA4 (FX)
Epik Sentinel x2
Yamaha RX-V3900
Rotel RB-1090
Rotel RMB-1095
NAD C565 BEE
Technics/KAB SL-1210M5G w/ Denon DL-160
Parasound Halo P7
OPPO BDP-83
Panasonic TC-P65V10 65" Plasma -
Ok, the SDA SRS 2 and the SDA 2A (not sure which you have) both have an efficiency of 92dB, while the SDA SRS 2.3TL is 90 dB. So, you'll get more volume before clipping from the SDA SRS 2 or the SDA 2A.
Half or more than half volume will put your amp into clipping, which from what you have described is what is happening. Turn it down before you do serious damage.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
RCFGuitars wrote: »Sorry, I should have included that info in the OP.
I don't think my volume knob has any markings on it, but I'm sure it's got to be over half. I'm using my AVR as the pre, and the range on its volume read out is -80.0dB to +16.5dB. Running 2 channel, with the subs hooked up, 0.0dB was clean and loud. With the TL's full range, depending upon the source, things started to go crazy around -8.0dB. When I hooked up the SDA2's full range, they stayed clean until -3.0dB.
0.0db is very high. What to you have your bass set at? -
I have set my pre to not allow anything beyond 0db. Typically I will go no louder than -10.0db when running my TL'sThe Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
My second set of speakers that I have been using for testing are SDA 2A's. The Adcom has lights on the front to indicate clipping, and in this situation even the yellow warning lights are not lighting at all. Right now, the EQ is flat, no boost or cut to any frequencies.
I don't know now, maybe the speakers are okay, and I just need more amp. There's a McIntosh MC2600 on ebay right now - maybe I should pick that up. 600wpc should be enough:D
Or, maybe my idea of serious SPL's is different that most, and I'm expecting too much from this rig. Could have something to do with standing in front of Marshall and Hiwatt stacks for the past 20 years:)
I'm going to start by bi-amping with more power, and see what happens from there.Primary System
Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL (RDO198,Sonicap/Dayton/Mills,CardasCCGR,Mye Spikes,DynamatX,Driver Rings,Ben's IC,Bi-Wired)
Polk Audio CSiA4 x2 (C)
Polk Audio FXiA6 (S)
Polk Audio RTiA3 (RS)
Polk Audio FXiA4 (FX)
Epik Sentinel x2
Yamaha RX-V3900
Rotel RB-1090
Rotel RMB-1095
NAD C565 BEE
Technics/KAB SL-1210M5G w/ Denon DL-160
Parasound Halo P7
OPPO BDP-83
Panasonic TC-P65V10 65" Plasma -
I don't care what the lights are telling you, it's clipping. As for SPL's, keep in mind that for every 3dB increase it takes double the power.
Your 2.3TL's......
90dB -1 watt
93dB - 2 watts
96dB - 4 watts
99dB - 8 watts
102dB - 16 watts
105dB - 32 watts
108dB - 64 watts
111dB - 128 watts
114dB - 256 watts
117dB - 512 watts
120dB - 1024 wattsPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I don't care what the lights are telling you, it's clipping. As for SPL's, keep in mind that for every 3dB increase it takes double the power.
Your 2.3TL's......
90dB -1 watt
93dB - 2 watts
96dB - 4 watts
99dB - 8 watts
102dB - 16 watts
105dB - 32 watts
108dB - 64 watts
111dB - 128 watts
114dB - 256 watts
117dB - 512 watts
120dB - 1024 watts
Is this at a distance of 1 meter??Pio Elete Pro 520
Panamax 5400-EX
Sunfire TGP 5
Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
PS Audio GCPH phono pre
Sunfire CG 200 X 5
Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
OPPO BDP-83 SE
SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
Ctr CS1000p
Sur - FX1000 x 4
SUB - SVS PB2-Plus
Workkout room:
Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
Onkyo TX-DS898
GFA 555
Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
Ft - SDA 1C
Not being used:
RTi 38's -4
RT55i's - 2
RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
LSI 15's
CSi40
PSW 404 -
I think I was having the same distortion problems with my SDA-SRS2's .
After I replaced my interconnect sockets and bought a new cable from Polk cust.serv. the sound is incredible now!
I feel I have to turn the volume knob more than I ever had to before. I don't know if this part of having to drive them loud or not.
Dose anybody else have to turn their volume knob to 12:00 to play these big guys loud?Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
That's good to know:D. I don't feel short changed now. Their sound is awsome at regular volumes too but sometimes we've just got to hear it loud.:DMost people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.