LSI25 and Pioneer VSX-1019AH-K Help

dvisoky

Hi - I need all the help I could get

The Pioneer is a brand new AV receiver and I also have a dedicated subwoofer.

Can anyone let me know the best way to connect my new receiver to the subwoofer and LSI25?

Please speak to me like the uneducated wannabe that I am Thanks Dave

jimmydep

What kind of subwoofer are you using.......what speaker configuration do you have (2channel, 5.1, 7.1.....)

That receiver has 120wpc at 1khz@8ohms, the LSI's are 4ohm speakers that demand high power to sound good.

JD

Montoya

Connect it directly to the receiver left and right speaker post and connect the sub to the lfe RCA jack. On a side note you should seriously look into getting a seperate amp for those speakers at a minimum 200 watts per channel.

dvisoky

Thank you guys. The subwoofer is a Klipch (the exact model, watts, size are at home for the moment) and the receiver is set up as a 7.1. They say it has 120 watts X 7 of power.

Note that I am going to run the system using only the Polk lsi25 speakers with the subwoofer and a center speaker for now. The room is a odd and open space so I will not run a 7.1 setup for now.

I know that 120 watts is not so much power but I will not be running the speakers at high levels for extended times.

Any advice is always appreciated

nguyendot

What they are saying is that your receiver does not employ a high current amplifier. It may not be stable into 4 ohms and can overheat or damage the amplifier by using the LSi speakers you have as they are low impedance.

It will probably work in the short term but you will not get the full performance out of your speakers and can risk damage. I would use the pre-out of your receiver if you still want to use it and add a dedicated high current amplifier to power your speakers.

As far as physical hookup goes - right now you simply connect your speakers directly to the receiver Left and Right speaker outputs and the subwoofer hooks up to the subwoofer pre-out.

johnmail76

Pioneer VSX-1019AH-K is easy to setup and it has a phenomenal ability to upscale and convert analog video signals to 1080p when transmitted through HDMI to your LCD HDTV. You also can plug in your iPhone and watch videos with the included cable without buying an expensive dock

mantis

This is not a proper setup. You should not use the Pioneer to power your speakers.

For now I suggest the following setup until you buy a external multichannel amp.

Ditch the Klipsch sub. sell it on ebay and use the money towards a amp. Wire the Lsi internal subs as your LFE with a Y adapter at the preout on the receiver. Set the speakers up manually and cross over them in small at 80hz. All speakers. This will take some of the load off the Pioneer which is not desinged to power 4 ohm load speakers. If you purchased a ICE receiver like the SC-05 or SC-07 then I would feel a little better and is a better match to your speakers. I would still suggest a amp if you plan on cranking it although I have had success running my 4 ohm load speakers with the Pioneer Elite Sc-07 with no problem or loss of dynamic range. On a side note I think Pioneer under rated the Sc-07. It does not get hot or strain when I drive it. You should seriously consider at least this move.

Dan

Rocco1

+1 with Mantis.

You will end up messing everything up (receiver and speakers) if you run a 4 ohm speaker, with a 8 ohm amp. If you just spent a pretty penny on some pretty speakers BUY A AMP!

Bernal

dvisoky wrote: »

Hi - I need all the help I could get

The Pioneer is a brand new AV receiver and I also have a dedicated subwoofer.

Can anyone let me know the best way to connect my new receiver to the subwoofer and LSI25?

Please speak to me like the uneducated wannabe that I am Thanks Dave

Hello.
LSI are major league ...
Use an amplifier.
Check if you have pre-out outputs to amplify

*********

Specifications
Amplifier section
Continuous average power output of 90
watts* per channel, min., at 8 ohms, from
20 Hz to 20 000 Hz with no more than
0.2 %** total harmonic distortion.
Front (stereo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 W + 90 W
Power output (1 kHz, 6 Ω, 0.05 %, 1 ch driven)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 W per channel
Guaranteed speaker impedance
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Ω to 8 Ω,
less than 8 Ω to 6 Ω (setting required)
* Measured pursuant to the Federal Trade Commission’s
Trade Regulation rule on Power Output Claims for
Amplifiers
** Measured by Audio Spectrum Analyzer
Audio Section
Input (Sensitivity/Impedance)
LINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 mV/47 kΩ
Output (Level/Impedance)
REC. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 mV/2.2 kΩ
Signal-to-Noise Ratio
(IHF, short circuited, A network)
LINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 dB
Signal-to-Noise Ratio [EIA, at 1 W (1 kHz)]
LINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 dB
Tuner Section
Frequency Range (FM) . . .87.5 MHz to 108 MHz
Antenna Input (FM). . . . . . . . . 75 Ω unbalanced
Frequency Range (AM). . . .530 kHz to 1700 kHz
Antenna (AM). . . . . . . .Loop antenna (balanced)
Video Section
Signal level
Composite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Vp-p (75 Ω)
Component Video . . . . . . . .Y: 1.0 Vp-p (75 Ω),
PB, PR: 0.7 Vp-p (75 Ω)
Corresponding maximum resolution
Component Video . . . . . . . . . . . 1080p (1125p)
(Video convert off)
Your AVR has no pre-out outputs to amplify
Digital In/Out Section
HDMI terminal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19-pin (Not DVI)
HDMI output type. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 V, 100 mA
USB terminal . . . . . USB2.0 Full Speed (Type A)
iPod terminal. . . . . USB, and Video (Composite)
SIRIUS antenna cable . . . . 8-pin mini DIN cable
Integrated control section
Control (SR) terminal. . Ø 3.5 Mini-jack (MONO)
Control (IR) terminal. . . Ø 3.5 Mini-jack (MONO)
IR signal. . . . . . . .High Active (High Level: 2.0 V)
Miscellaneous
Power requirements. . . . . . . . . . AC 120 V, 60 Hz
Power consumption. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 W
In standby . . . . . . .0.5 W (KURO LINK OFF)
0.8 W (KURO LINK ON)
Dimensions
. . . . . . 420 mm (W) x 158 mm (H) x 349 mm (D)
(16 9/16 in. (W) x 6 1/4 in. (H) x 13 3/4 in. (D))
Weight (without package) . . . .8.7 kg (19 lb 3 oz)
Furnished Parts Number
MCACC Setup microphone (APM7008). . . . . . 1
Remote control unit (AXD7551(VSX-1019AH)/
AXD7552 (VSX-919AH)). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
AA/IEC R6 dry cell batteries. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
iPod cable (ADE7129). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
AM loop antenna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
FM wire antenna. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
These operating instructions
Note
•Specifications and the design are subject
to possible modifications without notice,
due to improvements.

**

---

HT: 5.1
Pre:
DENON AVR-4308CI: Advanced 7.1 CH/5.1+2 CH/ 3.1+2+2 CH A/V Home Theater /MultiMedia Multi-Source/Zone Receiver with Networking and WiFi/170 watts x 7 channels
Amp:
SUNFIRE Grand Signature
Speaker:
LSiC (Center speaker)
LSi15 LEFT (Front speaker)
LSi15 RIGHT (Front speaker)
LSif/x LEFT (Surround speaker)
LSif/x RIGHT (Surround speaker)
VELODYNE OPTIMUN SERIES (High Output Digital EQ SubWoofer 2400W/1200WRMS)

dvisoky

Hi Everyone - I swapped my Pioneer and used my Onkyo TX SR-705 to power my LSI25's. It worked and I just won a bid on Ebay and purchased an Adcom 555II amp. Does anyone have any advice on how to hook up my receiver to the Amp to the Speakers and subwoofer? Thank you Dave

superjunior

dvisoky wrote: »

Hi Everyone - I swapped my Pioneer and used my Onkyo TX SR-705 to power my LSI25's. It worked and I just won a bid on Ebay and purchased an Adcom 555II amp. Does anyone have any advice on how to hook up my receiver to the Amp to the Speakers and subwoofer? Thank you Dave

get some quality ic's (inter connect cables) and run them from your receivers pre-outs to the amps inputs. you than run your speeker wires from the amp to your speekers. You can also add a trigger wire - which is a 3.5mm cord simmillar to a headphone jack - from the receiver to the amp to power the amp on when the avr is turned on. Run a standard sub cable from your receivers sub output to your sub. It's fun- enjoy
jr

dvisoky

Thank you so much for your reply. I search Amazon for Trigger Wire. Could you let me know a brand, model etc on Amazon in which to search? Are they just called 3.5mm cord? Please let me know and thank you

cfrizz

Welcome & congrats Dvisoky. What he means is to be able to turn on your amp when you turn on your receiver you need to connect the amp to the receiver using a trigger. They can be obtained at Radio Shack.

Personally, I think you should just leave your amp on all the time & save yourself that step.

There are lots of options for IC's. Blue Jeans Cable, Monoprice, Signal cable are some of the favorites around here.

Sherardp

Actually depending the amp you buy, you may not need the trigger. Some amps, quite a few of them actually have a switch that allows it to "auto sense" an incoming signal and turn on. Buy the amp first then determine if you need the trigger or like Cfrizz says, just leave it on.

dvisoky

I bought a Adcom GFA 555II - I went to the PDF manual but didn't see a place for a trigger. Do all Amp's have a slot? I also didn't see an automatic sensor which would be even nicer. Maybe the Adcom is too old

nguyendot

No, not all amps have one. You simply turn it on after the receiver (to avoid the turn on noise).

cfrizz

Turn it on & leave it on.

reeltrouble1

I would dump it back on the bay, Adcom is junk unworthy to feed the LSi any signal.

RT1

dvisoky

Why would you say its a piece of junk? Others have it and love it.

reeltrouble1

well, sorry, just trying to agravate the Adcom fan-boys today, but I see they all ran for cover and left you alone.

See this Adcom thing has gotten way out of hand to the point that some good person like yourself comes along and buys these things based on something somebody wrote. They are adequate for power but tend to be harsh sounding and overall just mundane totally average, this has been known at Club Polk since oh say, well forever, but there has been a fan-boy revival of the company at CP over the past few years and its time to put things in proper perspective......to boot I am just enough of an butt munching a-hole to do it and most importantly get away with it, since I do know about such things. Besides I am an ole ****, if you want a young whippersnapper opinion check with Sid the Kid he owned Adcoms as well when he was really young and pimply.

Now the "junk" thing was a bit tongue in cheek to stir the pot, actually to dump the pot off the stove and have the contents run down the cracks of the floorboards so the liquid lands on an Adcom Fan boy head, you should actually enjoy your new to you amp, I suspect you chose it with cost consideration in mind as well as those recommendations you mention for power sound and so on. Just know there are many many better amplifiers available for you as you grow in the hobby. Your speakers can handle a lot more amplifier and as a matter of fact a lot more pre-amp.

Since you obviously have a great sense of humor we are going to be great board friends. You have some great speakers there.

RT1

reeltrouble1

oh and since nobody actually told you how to get your amp to turn on/off if it does not have a trigger and you want to do this, you might get a power bar with a switched outlet that has a trigger function. You run the wire from your A/V to the power center then plug your amp into the power center, you can get the trigger wire at Radio Shack for under 5 bucks. You can do some research on the power center companies to pick the one that fits your needs.

RT1

hearingimpared

reeltrouble1 wrote: »

well, sorry, just trying to agravate the Adcom fan-boys today, but I see they all ran for cover and left you alone.

See this Adcom thing has gotten way out of hand to the point that some good person like yourself comes along and buys these things based on something somebody wrote. They are adequate for power but tend to be harsh sounding and overall just mundane totally average, this has been known at Club Polk since oh say, well forever, but there has been a fan-boy revival of the company at CP over the past few years and its time to put things in proper perspective......to boot I am just enough of an butt munching a-hole to do it and most importantly get away with it, since I do know about such things. Besides I am an ole ****, if you want a young whippersnapper opinion check with Sid the Kid he owned Adcoms as well when he was really young and pimply.

Now the "junk" thing was a bit tongue in cheek to stir the pot, actually to dump the pot off the stove and have the contents run down the cracks of the floorboards so the liquid lands on an Adcom Fan boy head, you should actually enjoy your new to you amp, I suspect you chose it with cost consideration in mind as well as those recommendations you mention for power sound and so on. Just know there are many many better amplifiers available for you as you grow in the hobby. Your speakers can handle a lot more amplifier and as a matter of fact a lot more pre-amp.

Since you obviously have a great sense of humor we are going to be great board friends. You have some great speakers there.

RT1

Ole RT1 is correct.

I am a previous Adcom 565 mono block owner. Notice the emphasis on previous. There is a lot better out there but in it's class it is good equipment.

dvisoky

We'll give the Adcom a try. I actually bought it used to meet a 2 channel price point. The room that its in is not conducive to more that 2 or 3 speakers up front and a sub. Actually the previous post about getting rid of my Klipsch (very low end) sub is probably a good idea.

If price was no object then I wouldn't be scraping around at the $400 price point for a used amp. But with some good words out there, I'm really hoping to get much better sound that whats coming out of my AVR Onkyo 705 - although its not too bad. I can always upgrade down the road right?!!

Regarding that Wire Trigger - I'm not sure I'm following you on this - for exactly what I need to buy. Let me think about it once I get the amp. Cheers

reeltrouble1

dv,

now dont get nervous its not that complicated, I will look on the Audiogon for an example of the power center thing. In the meantime I do suspect the rig will sound better than just with the reciever, as far as the sub, well, except for HT I am not a fan, your LSI's would have plenty of nice bass for me.

RT1

nguyendot

reeltrouble1 wrote: »

oh and since nobody actually told you how to get your amp to turn on/off if it does not have a trigger and you want to do this, you might get a power bar with a switched outlet that has a trigger function. You run the wire from your A/V to the power center then plug your amp into the power center, you can get the trigger wire at Radio Shack for under 5 bucks. You can do some research on the power center companies to pick the one that fits your needs.

RT1

Gahhh.. i forgot about this. All my power centers have the trigger, it looks like a headphone jack.

Good catch!

superjunior

dvisoky wrote: »

Thank you so much for your reply. I search Amazon for Trigger Wire. Could you let me know a brand, model etc on Amazon in which to search? Are they just called 3.5mm cord? Please let me know and thank you

sorry man, didn't mean to leave you hangiin, been working some long shifts lately. looks like the fine folks here clarified what I was trying to say. good luck
jr

reeltrouble1

http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?powrcond&1249396040&/Panamax-M5100-PM-11-outlet-lin

here you go dv, you want something like this, you can find them for less used on Audiogon or give this guy a call. no affilliation.

RT1

johnda

I like the LSi-25's and 15's, but we need to understand their power requirements and impedance. They are very similar to the classic AR3a loudspeakers in efficiency and have 4 ohms impedance. The AR3a's were known as "Amp Busters" because so many amps blew while trying to drive them. From what I see of the new A/V receivers, many of them do not have the high current ability to handle loads at 4 Ohms especially speakers rated below 90 Db efficiency. Remember a speaker rated at 87 Db will sound half as loud as a speaker rated at 90 Db at the same power setting. With the Polk efficiency being at 88 Db , if you are going to drive them in a room 16x25 or larger you will need lots of true power. I would not be looking at a all-in-one receiver, but would be looking at an integrated amplifier or preamp-amp combo rated at least 60-100 RMS watts/channel rated for 4 Ohms impedance with the powerband covering 20-20k cycles with a very low distortion figure. This will mean the unit will not be a lightweight, but will have a substantial power supply and cooling. Having said all that, I really do like the Lsi 25's. Coupled up properly to a good amp, you will NOT need a separate subwoofer. They will give you all the punch you need.