My SDA SRS 1.2 tl upgrade thread.
Comments
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Shocked One wrote: »By "pre" are you referring to a "pre"-amp of some kind, or the new Palm "Pre" cell phone from Sprint?
PreAmp baby!! Adcom GFP-715.Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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Quick - let me switch to my other tab to get on my sprint forum.
Awesome upgrades dude.- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
Well with my 1C's done I have already started to take these 1.2tl's apart again for one last time. I have pulled the side panels off and pulled the old grill cloth off and the strip of wood. Pulling them off was not as bad as I thought it might be. Thanks to DK's thread on the process.
I am going to complete them as I did the 1C's. I ordered the oak wood for the wood caps and side strip's, should have it next week, I also ordered some BlackHole for the back walls, and some Sonic Barrier for the side walls, I am also replacing the binding post with cardas. I am replacing the SDA interconnect socket with bindding post as well like I did on the 1C's
My plan is to have the wood match the 1C's. The nice thing is half the upgrades have been done.. I would just remove the top binding posts like DK did but part of me still wants to try and byamp them some day.
Refurbing these speakers is a blast.
Larry.Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »Well with my 1C's done I have already started to take these 1.2tl's apart again for one last time. I have pulled the side panels off and pulled the old grill cloth off and the strip of wood. Pulling them off was not as bad as I thought it might be. Thanks to DK's thread on the process.
I am going to complete them as I did the 1C's. I ordered the oak wood for the wood caps and side strip's, should have it next week, I also ordered some BlackHole for the back walls, and some Sonic Barrier for the side walls, I am also replacing the binding post with cardas. I am replacing the SDA interconnect socket with bindding post as well like I did on the 1C's
My plan is to have the wood match the 1C's. The nice thing is half the upgrades have been done.. I would just remove the top binding posts like DK did but part of me still wants to try and byamp them some day.
Refurbing these speakers is a blast.
Larry.
Awesome Larry! But be careful about replacing the SDA interconnect socket. I was going to do that but was warned that in doing so, if I ever purchased a non-common ground amp, I wouldn't be able to use the AI-1 cables if I did replace the socket with posts. Lo and behold I got a non-common ground amp and used the AI-1 cable with Raife's baked potato tweek.
Then there is of course, if you ever decide to buy a non-common ground amp, you can make Raife's dreadknot and use the posts. -
What would be the difference in using the pin or a banana??
Can someone elaborate?Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »What would be the difference in using the pin or a banana??
Can someone elaborate?
I'm not sure what you are asking here Larry. Do you mean removing the plug off the end of the AI-1 and replacing the pin and blade with bananas? -
Well I will be taking the pin/blade socket out and instaling a binding post. Now if I was to use a non common ground amp with an AI-1, the binding post should not matter. I'm sure DK has his set up that way.
Edit: I see you posted about using the dreadknot. We are on the same page, I have no desire in using the AI-1 anyway. I want to build a Dreadknot if I ever use a amp I can't tie the negs together.Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »Well I will be taking the pin/blade socket out and instaling a binding post. Now if I was to use a non common ground amp with an AI-1, the binding post should not matter. I'm sure DK has his set up that way.
Edit: I see you posted about using the dreadknot. We are on the same page, I have no desire in using the AI-1 anyway. I want to build a Dreadknot if I ever use a amp I can't tie the negs together.
Well then have at the Cardas posts Larry! I replaced my stock binding posts with the Cardas posts and am very happy with them. One word of advice though. You need to cut the holes in the back plate for the Cardas posts in a somewhat oval shape because the plastic seats that hold the posts in place will just spin in a round hole. Jesse did mine and started with a small hole the used very fine, very small files to rasp the holes to the proper shape.
Another tip here is that my Cardas posts didn't come with color coding on them. Jesse placed a red pinstripe on the positives and a black pinstripe the negatives. I don't know if Cardas has started color coding their posts so if they didn't the above works just fine.
You are going to love those posts. -
When I had my Dreadnaught and modded binding posts,, the blade (-) cable connects to the negative binding posts and the pin cable from the dreadnaught connects to the now upgraded pin/binding post.Worked like a charm.One important tidbit that I discovered was to use a good quality/guage cable such as in DK's original post.Good luck with your upgrade,,I wonder how many sheets of the blackhole it's gonna' take.:)JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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george daniel wrote: »When I had my Dreadnaught and modded binding posts,, the blade (-) cable connects to the negative binding posts and the pin cable from the dreadnaught connects to the now upgraded pin/binding post.Worked like a charm.One important tidbit that I discovered was to use a good quality/guage cable such as in DK's original post.Good luck with your upgrade,,I wonder how many sheets of the blackhole it's gonna' take.
I'm waiting with my mouth open for the answer to that question.:) -
hearingimpared wrote: »I'm waiting with my mouth open for the answer to that question.:)
4 sheets is enough to do the back walls but I ordered 5
Joe I knew we were spelling Dreadnaught wrong last night, I know I'm not the best at spelling or typing for that matter but this is a shame.. LOLPolk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »4 sheets is enough to do the back walls but I ordered 5
Joe I knew we were spelling Dreadnaught wrong last night, I know I'm not the best at spelling or typing for that matter but this is a shame.. LOL
Yeah I keep making that same mistake over and over again. It's a disease I tell ya!:D
BTW thanks for the info on the Blackholes. -
Well the oak wood I got for the sides is 3.500 wide, the original was 3.125
The thickness I got was .750 so I had them plane it down to .500 as that is the thickness of the original.
With the new sides being .375 wider then the original I took the router and opened the slot to accommodate the wider oak side.
In this pic you can see the difference.
In this pic you can see where I used the router and opened up the slot.
Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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Naked pics.:p
Auston Hardwoods said my 8 foot plank for the caps should be done by Thursday. In the mean time I will get the sides, and grills done..Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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A man possessed!:D Looking good Larry.
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hearingimpared wrote: »A man possessed!:D Looking good Larry.
Your telling me!!! Joe after I got the 1C's done I had to do the 1.2tl's..Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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:cool: Ready to dig in now.. BlackHole, Sonic Barrier, Cardas Binding posts..
Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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I don't see any completed end caps yet.:)
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Picked up my Oak wood for the top and bottom caps.
and here are my Oak sides ready to be installed..
Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
Wow just wow!
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Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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Crazy like a fox!
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Well You guys have seen my rings in the other thread I am using for the drivers and passives.
Well I have been been a busy bee all morning and now into the afternoon so I'm taking a break for a few but you guys know me and my picture show..LOL:p
So here are a couple more. as you can see I have put in the BlackHole and Sonic Barrier on the walls. I have also added some extra cross bracing to the side walls. I used 1 3/4 round Oak dowels, I put 3 in each cabnet. Now to move on to the wood caps here in a few..
Just wanted to share my progress, You now may move on to your daily programing.
Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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Very nice. The sound is suposed to come from the drivers, and not the cabinets;)Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Very nice. The sound is suposed to come from the drivers, and not the cabinets;)
LOL your a riot!!! but I still love ya...;)Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
very nice. The sound is suposed to come from the drivers, and not the cabinets;)
qft. :d"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
This took me some time to do today...
Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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And I am done for the day... LOLPolk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s