Upgrading binding posts on an amp

tcrossma

I have a Pass Labs X-150 amp, which has what seem to me to be very basic and somewhat cheap binding posts.

My AQ CV-8 speaker cables have nanners on the amp end, and I had to buy some spades that thread over the nanners because the binding posts do not support the nanners. I don't know if the spade adapters or the binding posts are to blame, but I just can't get a connection to the amp that I'm comfortable with. No matter how hard I tighten the binding post, it comes loose if I move the speaker cable more than a tiny amount.

So, I'm at a point where I could A) do nothing and hope they don't pop off and short the amp. try some different speaker cables with different spades or C) look into replacing the binding posts. Is replacing the binding posts anything of a DIY job for someone without skills in that area (but willing to learn)?

Anyone have any thoughts?

unc2701

IIRC, if you unscrew the knobs on those posts all the way, you can pop out the plastic in the center and use bananas.

If that doesn't work, yes it's very easy for someone w/o experience

tcrossma

It's a solid knob, and I don't think it unscrews all the way -- all double-check on that tonight.

Any idea how would I go about learning how to replace the binding posts? Some online guides, books, etc?

Thanks.

unc2701

1)turn it off
2)unplug everything
3)go make a sandwich
4)open it up and pray that the caps have discharged
5)the binding posts are going to either be held in place by some screws or have a large nut &washer holding them in (I'm pretty sure the X250 is the latter- can't remember if the x150 has the same posts).
6)Once you've detached them from the chassis, you should be able to pull them out enough to de-solder the leads going to them. If not you'll have to do it from inside.
7)find ones you like that'll fit in the holes. If this wasn't your first time or a nice amp, you could get into enlarging the holes, or making filler pieces to go smaller, but you should probably stick with the same size.
8)solder the new ones on. Don't forget to put the lead through the washer & nut first, if it's that kinda post.
9)screw everything back down.

tcrossma

Thanks, that doesn't sound so bad. But I'm not sure I like step #4 all that much... Anything I can do instead of trust it to luck?

unc2701

BTW, you might be able to pop out the plastic piece with it fully tightened, too (assuming that the posts are the ones I'm thinking of). I think those plugs are a UK thing- their power sockets are the same size as a banana plug.

Step #4. If you power off with the speakers still attached (and your pre still feeding it a signal), this will drain the caps on a lot of amps very quickly. The other way to be sure is to hook a wire to a ground (socket, metal water pipe, etc) and touch it to the terminals on the caps- do this carefully. I'm erring on the side of caution here- as long as you stick to the binding posts and have it unplugged, you should be fine anyway.

See link for directions on discharging caps:

http://studentweb.eku.edu/justin_holton/caps_p.html

That's in reference to tube amps- I think their design makes them more prone to holding voltage.

tcrossma

Ok, thanks for the info.

CoolJazz

On the class of amp that the Pass is, there is no question that you should put good posts on it. And I would highly recommend Cardas! If you had spades, I'd suggest the model they make that you turn one knob and it tightens both sides. They work really well and are very nice to look at! Forget shiny, supposed to be gold stuff and get the best...copper or the rhodium plated if you mind cleaning the copper a couple times a year.

You can check to see if the existing are standard width by getting a double banana at some place like Radio Shack if you don't have one now. If it'll fit, then it's standard width. But the metal chassis underneath the existing can still not be agreeable. Remember that you need a good tight, stable fit so you can tighten down on the cable effectively. If the assembly isn't well mounted, then you can't expect an effective post to tighten down on the cable.

So to replace...you may have to solder, drill and maybe nibble. Then you have to buy the right posts for the thickness of the chassis. And you need a soldering iron with enough wattage to heat up a big chunk of metal fairly quickly, so you don't melt stuff that's not supposed to.

If any of that sounds uncomfortable then this probably isn't a job to tackle yourself. Good posts can be a joy to use and clamp securely, which is job one. Sounds like your existing are doing neither!!

CoolJazz

schwarcw

As long as you buy gold plating over copper terminals you should be fine. Cardas makes high quality, gold standard products. For RCA terminals on your amps you can get quality gold on copper terminals for less money. Check out Parts Express. Vampire makes good stuff, as do others. Don't buy Rat Shack cheap **** gold plating over aluminum or even plastic. Pure junk!

tcrossma

Thanks for the additional info guys. I'll probably open it up at some point soon and see what it looks like in there, and then decide if I think I can do it myself or not.

Conradicles

Bump for more info.
I want to replace mine on my old Denon POA-1500, but how do I know what size to buy?