Table Saws

disneyjoe7

Anyone into wood working?

Need a little help, own a Dewalt 744 Table saw which I just brought off someone on Craigslist. I trying to buy a good saw blade for birch plywood I wish to build something out of. I see blades with for use under 3hp saws, I don't see a hp rating in the manual. My thinking this saw is about 1.5hp at best, but not sure as HP ratings can be over rated must times.

Does anyone know what a DW744 saw is in HP rating?

shadowofnight

Specifications
Horsepower 2-1/2
Table Size 19 1/4" x 26 1/2"
Miter Angle 30° L&R
Bevel Angle 0° to 45°L
Blade Size 10" (254mm)
Max. Cut Depth 0° Bevel ................3 1/8" (79mm)
Max. Cut Depth 45° Bevel ..............2-1/4" (57mm)
RPM, no load 3650


http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/153532-03,DW744.pdf ....Page 3

disneyjoe7

Thanks must be blind, I would have swear it wasn't in my manual... Opened it and page 3 2.5hp, and on top on that must have seen it on line also since I downloaded to PDF also before.

Thanks again.


Perhaps I should just post my stupid questions first since I feel it would save me a hour or so if I over looked something. :rolleyes:

Sherardp

What ya building over there? Any cool projects?

Polkersince85

A good quality Plywood blade will work, such as Freud. I think HomeDepot has them. The trick is to support the infeed and outfeed using roller stands or sawhorse the right height. Don't try to throw it up there without support. If edge finish is critical, use removeable masking tape along the kerf area. Peel it off toward the cut edge. Let the saw do the cutting, you just guide it. Wear safety glasses.

janmike

I was under the impression that you look at the RPM for blade selection, but I am a bit of a novice at this stuff. Purchased a Bosch 4100 with the gravity stand and it works like a charm. I put on a Freud 80 tooth blade and it cuts real smooth.
Steve, I download the manuals in pdf format and then use Adobe to search for specifics. Saves reading, searching, hunting, reading again....

disneyjoe7

I building an entertainment center low boy for my equipment. Something along the line of a Salamander Quad 30, without doors. If that goes well, later some of these http://www.starkwood.com/Cornices/CUTSHEETS/Lesley.htm

I'm looking at this blade. http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU80R010-10-Inch-Ultimate-Melamine/dp/B0007WKBEQ/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t A little pricey but I know a good blade can make all the difference.

Mike, you're right search feature duh.

janmike

Do some shopping for that blade Steve. I purchased very similar blades (Freud - 80 tooth) on ebay for 1/2 that price.

disneyjoe7

$80 or so bucks for a blade I was getting over that, since I needed a good dado blade also.

disneyjoe7

Mike or Polkersince85 would this work or the other one I looking at?


http://cgi.ebay.com/Freud-TK406-Avanti-10-Inch-60-Tooth-ATB-Thin-Kerf-Blade_W0QQitemZ360146098724QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item360146098724&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A30


This is nice too I think, but not sure what one is better.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Freud-LU74R010-10-Inch-80-Tooth-ATB-Thin-Kerf-Cut-Blade_W0QQitemZ260391551174QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item260391551174&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A30

3/4" oak plywood is what I going to cut.

janmike

Here are the blades I use.
Very clean cut. I was cutting solid Oak hardwood flooring. Put one on the Table saw as well as the Mitre saw.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Freud-D1080XDiablo10-Inch-80-tooth-ATB-Finish-SawBlade_W0QQitemZ110374623581QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item110374623581&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50


I assume the 5/8 arbor is ok.
AND he has Best Offer as well. Good luck.

Polkersince85

I would go with a Freud LU80R10 for plywood. Amazon has some around 80 bucks. Dewalt or Oldham has some blades that may be cheaper. Lowes has a good selection. The thin kerf blade is for fine finish work. I would stay with a .126 kerf - 80 tooth for ripping plywood.

ben62670

I have played with many blades and have found that some of the cheaper blades at Lowes work just as well as some of the more expensive. Cut quality wise the cheapies are very very good, but don't last as long as some of the pro blades. Trade off is I can buy 3 cheap blades for the price of a pro blade. 80 teeth, and carbide is an excellent recommendation for a table saw. Count your fingers before you start, and when you finish. If the numbers match things are pretty good.
Ben

disneyjoe7

Polkersince85 wrote: »

I would go with a Freud LU80R10 for plywood. Amazon has some around 80 bucks. Dewalt or Oldham has some blades that may be cheaper. Lowes has a good selection. The thin kerf blade is for fine finish work. I would stay with a .126 kerf - 80 tooth for ripping plywood.

Yes I think LU80R10 blade is the best, everything else is second best. :rolleyes: And only like $30 more then the other one.

Systems

For MDF I use an 80 tooth thin Kerf Freud or a 60 tooth Craftsman.For I prefer to use an inexpensive 200 tooth plywood blade.

BIZILL

was it here at polk a few years back where someone posted a safety device that stops in an instant when it senses a person's flesh touching the saw blade? the video demonstration online used hotdogs in place of fingers and it seemed to work well.

ben62670

BIZILL wrote: »

was it here at polk a few years back where someone posted a safety device that stops in an instant when it senses a person's flesh touching the saw blade? the video demonstration online used hotdogs in place of fingers and it seemed to work well.

I just close my eyes. It has worked well so far.

BIZILL

****, back when i used a table saw at work when younger i had a piece of wood kick back into my belly. never trusted myself since.

Polkersince85

Screw the finger...that brake system will ruin an $80 blade. Get your priorities straight.

pearsall001

Make sure you put tape on both sides of the plywood where the cut will be...it does a great job with keeping splinters to a minimum.

We need pics as the project moves along.

John30_30

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

Anyone into wood working?

Need a little help, own a Dewalt 744 Table saw which I just brought off someone on Craigslist. I trying to buy a good saw blade for birch plywood I wish to build something out of. I see blades with for use under 3hp saws, I don't see a hp rating in the manual. My thinking this saw is about 1.5hp at best, but not sure as HP ratings can be over rated must times.

Does anyone know what a DW744 saw is in HP rating?

Horsepower has little to do with blade selection, but will affect what you can comfortably cut without burning up a motor. If you don't have much of a motor, you may have to cheat a bit.

A good rule of thumb is that for veneered plywoods, you want probably upward of 60 teeth on a 10" blade with not a lot of set to the teeth, so as to avoid tearout on crosscuts. This, you just have to experiment with sometimes. When you're getting in the 60-80 tooth range, there's usually very little difference in cleanliness of the cut. Oftentimes also, you just need 1 side (topcut) good, so if the bottom tears out on a crosscut, no problem.

When you've got a 120 tooth blade where the teeth cut barely wider than the thickness of the blade, and it takes forever to push a piece of plywood through, it's because of the design.

Ripping hardwood lumber, you want fewer teeth, thin blade, more set, more hook. So a 7 or 8 1/4" skillsaw blade with 24 teeth will zip through hardwood with less stress on the saw and also the torque is higher, but might not crank up high enough to cut through 8/4 lumber. You're going to clean up the stock on a joiner anyhow.

I remember when B & D came out with a brand called Piranha, with very little hooked carbide tips, very thin kerf, and they cut like a hot mama. A **** for sharpeners though.

MDF and particle board, especially hard stuff, I'd go with 40 or fewer teeth.
Also, if your saw motor has the option of 120v and 240, go with 240. It will prolong the life of the motor.

Systems

BIZILL wrote: »

was it here at polk a few years back where someone posted a safety device that stops in an instant when it senses a person's flesh touching the saw blade? the video demonstration online used hotdogs in place of fingers and it seemed to work well.

http://www.sawstop.com/

disneyjoe7

Why is every one scared about a table saw tool? I believe there are many tools which will F*ck you up. Saw all, nail guns, whatever. I remember when I was in the 6 or 7th grade we had shop wood class with a table saw, and I don't think it had a blade guard. You would told, and if you're stupid you lost one, and then we all laughed at you for the next 6 or 7 years. What today in this PC ****, schools don't have shop classes, and all the boys don't have balls either.

Systems

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

Why is every one scared about a table saw tool? I believe there are many tools which will F*ck you up. Saw all, nail guns, whatever. I remember when I was in the 6 or 7th grade we had shop wood class with a table saw, and I don't think it had a blade guard. You would told, and if you're stupid you lost one, and then we all laughed at you for the next 6 or 7 years. What today in this PC ****, schools don't have shop classes, and all the boys don't have balls either.

I nailed two fingers together on my left hand once with a 16 penny nail gun. Was holding a 2x4 and the gun "double clutched and shot the nail over the top of the 2x4 and into my fingers....fun times.

disneyjoe7

See you can hurt yourself by anything, just have some balls.


Other then that I hope your fingers are ok now.

Polkersince85

Most folks get hurt on a table saw by pushing with their fingers. Use a push stick. Kickback of the piece can f88k up your face. I've seen a 2x4 go into a block wall before. Other than those issues, they are fun.

Hillbilly61

John30_30 wrote: »

I remember when B & D came out with a brand called Piranha, with very little hooked carbide tips, very thin kerf, and they cut like a hot mama. A **** for sharpeners though.

MDF and particle board, especially hard stuff, I'd go with 40 or fewer teeth.
Also, if your saw motor has the option of 120v and 240, go with 240. It will prolong the life of the motor.

I remember those Piranha blades. They were so inexpensive, I'd just throw them away instead of resharping. Yep, they cut like a hot mama and lasted a long time! I still have a couple.

You are right on about going 240v if the motor can be configured that way. It will run cooler. A lot of saw mfgrs claim a PEAK hp was their hp rating, which is nonsense. AC motors of that nature typically do that during start up and then settle back to about half when running. My aftermarket motor on the table saw runs a solid 5 HP. The only time I had the thermal protection kick on it was using a dull tar gummed blade to rough rip a lot of oak 4" hardwood stock. I was pushing the stock too hard and was too lazy to put in the proper blade to begin with. My fault.

Hillbilly61

Polkersince85 wrote: »

Most folks get hurt on a table saw by pushing with their fingers. Use a push stick. Kickback of the piece can f88k up your face. I've seen a 2x4 go into a block wall before. Other than those issues, they are fun.

My saw has no safety features, etc. Never been hurt or had a close call. You just always have to respect how the tool can f**k you up and be mindful of it. Definitely always use a pushstick. About kickback, you should always stand slightly off to the side and don't push too hard. Watch the rate of cut too. If it slows down, lighten up on the push. Besides greatly avoiding kickback, that habit will lengthen the blade life too.

The most dangerous tool I have is my router. It's nothing but a spinning protruding sharp bit that will chew up anything it happens to touch. Pure unforgiving business. The high RPMs create a gyroscope effect that affects how the tool handles when holding it in the air, plus the bit is on the side of the router you don't see when handling it.

disneyjoe7

Well I got a Freud 1080x blade, and a Freud Dado DD208 blade for $159.69 I still think LU80R10 blade is the best, but for the money and the return policy if damaged by my local Home Depot this is best. The LU80R10 blade which is $90 bucks, which I need to buy it over the net as Home Depot doesn't stock it.

edbert

Lorthos wrote: »

I nailed two fingers together on my left hand once with a 16 penny nail gun. Was holding a 2x4 and the gun "double clutched and shot the nail over the top of the 2x4 and into my fingers....fun times.

I'm sure that hurt like hell, but man that made me laugh! Funny visual I guess. Were your fingers nailed to the 2x4?

John30_30

Hillbilly61 wrote: »

My saw has no safety features, etc. Never been hurt or had a close call. You just always have to respect how the tool can f**k you up and be mindful of it. Definitely always use a pushstick. About kickback, you should always stand slightly off to the side and don't push too hard. Watch the rate of cut too. If it slows down, lighten up on the push. Besides greatly avoiding kickback, that habit will lengthen the blade life too.

The most dangerous tool I have is my router. It's nothing but a spinning protruding sharp bit that will chew up anything it happens to touch. Pure unforgiving business. The high RPMs create a gyroscope effect that affects how the tool handles when holding it in the air, plus the bit is on the side of the router you don't see when handling it.

I've got an old Boyce-Crane, circa 1964, with a 5 HP compressor motor on it that I had to put a double-sized pulley on to get the rpm's back up to 3450.:p It's also got one of the original precision lock fences. :p I can't even remember the old boy's name that invented them, but I think he did alright.

The way I've seen most people injure themselves was cutting or routing little bitty pieces of wood without using a pushstick or some sort of mechanical 3rd hand. But any sort of distraction will do it too.
My scariest tool is my shaper ( oversized table router) with a bigass 6 " raised-panel bit on it. When that bit spins up, it sounds like an airplane and scared hell out of me every time for fear that thing would just torque right off into space.:eek:
Actually, putting a raised-panel or big 1 1/2" roundover bit on a 3hp router will inspire the same fear of God.
I think statistically I read the most injury-prone tools are skillsaws and radial-arm, maybe because so many DiY'ers own them.
Routers, shapers, joiners- they all puree whatever you put in them. You can't sew it back on.