Need soundproofing advice...

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Comments

  • rs159
    rs159 Posts: 1,027
    edited February 2003
    Once my system is complete I will have an extra receiver that's 50watt rms at 8ohm and 105watt dynamic at 8 ohm both channels driven from 20hz - 20khz and it's 4 ohm stable and I dont know what to do with it so I could use it for the bass shaker amp if it has enough power. Or should I use a more powerfull amp? I'm not very familiar with bass shakers, all I know is it's just a linear electric motor that works like a passive sub only it's main purpose in life is to shake things. Advice? Suggestions?
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited February 2003
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • rs159
    rs159 Posts: 1,027
    edited February 2003
    1000 watts? damn...
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,986
    edited February 2003
    How about isolation?

    Thick, solid slate or some such. No, it won't kill the bass volume, but maybe we should be looking at isolating the sub from the rest of the room, if the transfer through the room is the real issue.

    Anyone? Bueller?

    Cheers,
    Rooster
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • rs159
    rs159 Posts: 1,027
    edited February 2003
    The sub sits on solid concrete. 3 of the walls are part of the foundation and the other wall is wood and steel. I don't think a little piece of slate will help much.
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited February 2003
    Originally posted by rs159
    1000 watts? damn...
    The deeper you go, the more omph it takes.
    What did the earlier links I posted tell you?
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,986
    edited February 2003
    Spike em'. I know I'm reaching here, but don't knock it 'till you've tried it. I hate to see you give up the goose, due to what appears to be a volume issue, not xfer (based on your crete floor).

    Cheers,
    Rooster
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • rs159
    rs159 Posts: 1,027
    edited February 2003
    Originally posted by Tour2ma

    The deeper you go, the more omph it takes.
    What did the earlier links I posted tell you?

    I know, I know. Bass takes more effort to create and more effort to stop it once it's created. Mother nature's a ****, isn't she?
  • HBombToo
    HBombToo Posts: 5,256
    edited February 2003
    Originally posted by RuSsMaN
    Spike em'.
    Cheers,
    Rooster

    How do you decouple base with spikes???

    I'm not fireing from all cylinders here so help me out Russ.

    Evil Twin
    ***WAREMTAE***
  • rs159
    rs159 Posts: 1,027
    edited February 2003
    Russ, why spike on a hard floor? Sorry if that's a stupid question, but it just doesn't make sense.
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,986
    edited February 2003
    C'mon guys, why spike on ANY floor? Back to basics, why spike any speaker? Isolation.

    Like I said, I'm reaching at this point, but if the isolation 'base' (anyone seen my baseball?) is covered, the issue lies elsewhere.

    Cheers,
    Rooster
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • rs159
    rs159 Posts: 1,027
    edited February 2003
    The issue is that houses are built like crap and anything louder than average conversation you can hear all thru the house. It's probably right up there on every audiphile's / ht enthusiast's / teenager's parent's top 10 list of what's wrong with where they live.
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,986
    edited February 2003
    Not all houses Cochise. ;)

    I can sit in my mancave and listen at 95+db peaks, and the wife can read in the bedroom, and not hear a peep. All in a 1960 ft sq abode.

    These kind of issues can be addressed, it's just a matter of extent based on the surroundings. Not saying it can be 100% solved in your case, but some minor or major tweeks have got to yield *some* improvement.

    Cheers,
    Rooster
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited February 2003
    Agree Russ, but is the bedroom adjacent to the “mancave”?

    Also was reflecting on your earlier spike comment. I had never related their use to isolation before, but yeah, pointed tips minimize contact area and therefore vibration transmission. The ones my big Polks came with were recommended for use if the speakers are placed on carpet. Speaker stability was the purpose. In this case though I doubt spikes would help. The acoustic energy output of the sub, renders the mechanical energy (vibration) output negligible, at least it should...

    rs,
    Let me undo a little damage I may have done earlier on. My drop ceiling advice was clearly not the best. As others have said (and believe it or not, I know), bass is nearly impossible to kill through absorption. Mid’s and high’s --- easy. Bass --- tough, very, very tough. Clearly it’s passing through your existing ceiling like it wasn’t there.

    I think it boils down to 3 choices: let it go (problem is that this is your problem), kill it (problem is you can’t), or reflect it. This is doable. Your walls and floors are doing it now (could be part of the problem). MDF or other dense materials may be needed for a new ceiling, possibly coupled with energy isolation “bushings” mentioned earlier in the thread.

    RonP or some of the other HT room builders might be able to offer some materials suggestions. Also check out the links posted earlier and good luck…

    I also still go back to the sand idea, which would also help. I keep going back for two different images:
    1.) the sand “dancing” in the crawl space; and
    2.) the sand leaking through cracks in the ceiling like a bad cave-in scene on “Bonanza”… :)
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • rs159
    rs159 Posts: 1,027
    edited February 2003
    I don't really favor the sand idea b/c it just seems like way too much mess and matinence. I was thinking about it today (shoveling snow off a roof for 3 hours sure gives one a lot of time to think...) and I came to the conclusion that something really heavy and dense suspended in space with little contact to the floor above would work the best. All I need to figure out now is something to build it from and how to build it. Then this little adventure here will finally be over.