OK audiophiles Sub help needed

ben62670
ben62670 Posts: 15,969
edited April 2009 in Speakers
Please don't bother to respond if you haven't had experience with more than a few musical subs. I am not looking for HT stuff here, but more geared to music. Ported is out. The debate is sealed, or passive radiators. What do you guys think are some of the nicest sounding subs that play music tight and accurate.
Thanks much.
Ben
Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben
Post edited by ben62670 on
«1

Comments

  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,273
    edited March 2009
    My preference is sealed. Running the VMPS Larger that has a 12" and 15" active as well as a 15" passive. Coupled with the SMS-1, the sound and integration leaves me without any complaints. Not a big fan of ported subs here Ben.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2009
    Thanks bro. Not a big fan of ported myself.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • tryrrthg
    tryrrthg Posts: 1,896
    edited March 2009
    you're a single guy. infinite baffle or dipole.

    if those won't work build a low Q (big box) sealed sub.
    Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2009
    For music low Q Sealed.PR's have the same steep rolloff as BR below tuning.
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • Ron Temple
    Ron Temple Posts: 3,212
    edited March 2009
    Are you thinking of DIY or commercial? Budget? Are you going to try to acheive 124db output ;)?

    Rythmik has a couple of kits and assembled 12" and 15" sealed servo subs. I've heard the 12" and it's extremely tight and musical if not driven past it's limits. Unlike most servos, Brian's design is not limited and will distort and bottom when pushed.

    GR Research sells a 12" PR design that's also one of the best I've heard, but you have to build the box.

    Epik has a couple of new sealed subs, the Vanquish and the Dragon, that I haven't heard, but have been told great things about.

    The new Hsu ULS15 is another option, though the one guy I know who's heard both, prefers the Rythmik slightly for music, the Hsu for output.

    Combo rig:

    Onkyo NR1007 pre-pro, Carver TFM 45(fronts), Carver TFM 35 (surrounds)
    SDA 1C, CS400i, SDA 2B
    PB13Ultra RO
    BW Silvers
    Oppo BDP-83SE
  • pearsall001
    pearsall001 Posts: 5,094
    edited March 2009
    I'm not a big fan of ported subs either. Now with dual Velo SPL-1200R subs flanking my AAD monitors...I'm in music heaven. Seemless integration, extremely musical is an understatement to say the least. There's no turning back now.
    "2 Channel & 11.2 HT "Two Channel:Magnepan LRSSchiit Audio Freya S - SS preConsonance Ref 50 - Tube preParasound HALO A21+ 2 channel ampBluesound NODE 2i streameriFi NEO iDSD DAC Oppo BDP-93KEF KC62 sub Home Theater:Full blown 11.2 set up.
  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,143
    edited March 2009
    treitz3 wrote: »
    My preference is sealed. Running the VMPS Larger that has a 12" and 15" active as well as a 15" passive. Coupled with the SMS-1, the sound and integration leaves me without any complaints. Not a big fan of ported subs here Ben.

    +1 what he said
  • Erik Tracy
    Erik Tracy Posts: 4,673
    edited March 2009
    I run a sealed Epik Valor - sweet sub for music. I'd recommend this one.

    But with the newer Epiks - you may have to wait a bit and see what the user reviews are like - or look for a deal on a used Valor.

    Enjoy the quest...:D

    H9: If you don't trust what you are hearing, then maybe you need to be less invested in a hobby which all the pleasure comes from listening to music.
  • CRESCENDOPOWER
    CRESCENDOPOWER Posts: 153
    edited March 2009
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,273
    edited March 2009
    STFU dweeb with nothing to do. Go back to popping your zits. At least that was more productive.

    Post# Shove it where the sun don't shine. You look it up and enjoy the view.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited March 2009
    tryrrthg wrote: »
    you're a single guy. infinite baffle or dipole.


    I agree with him. You can't beat IB for realism and bottom end. Dipoles too, but you might need to tame the reflections.

    A line source set up might be worth looking into, too. Just something to ponder.
  • Menasor
    Menasor Posts: 283
    edited March 2009
    From what I hear, the Rhythmiks are very very good for music. There's also a lot of buzz around the Epik Dragon.

    Check out this D15SE here:

    http://www.rythmikaudio.com/D15SE.html

    Fronts: Energy RC-70
    Center: Energy RC-LCR
    Surrounds: Energy Veritas 1.0CM
    Subwoofer: SVS PC12-NSD
    Receiver: Onkyo TX-SR705
    Amplifier: Denon POA-2200 w/ Ben's ICs


    Pics of my setup (click me)
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited March 2009
    tryrrthg wrote: »
    infinite baffle or dipole.
    Excellent SQ potential, but both require multiple hi excursion drivers.
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • curved
    curved Posts: 664
    edited March 2009
    What's your budget?
    Living Room:....................[HTML] [/HTML] Zone 2 (Workout Room):
    AVR - Yamaha RX-V757......JBL 4312 Pro Monitors
    Pre - Nak CA-5
    AMP - Adcom 555 (Main)
    Main - Polk RTI8**/RTiA5
    AMP - Adcom 545II (Center)
    Center - Polk CSiA4**
    Sub - Snell Basis 300:p......Zone 3 (Outside)
    CD - Yamaha CDC-555.......Def Tech AW5500
    TV - Pani TH-42PZ80U
    BR - LG BD390
    Monster HTS1600 Power Center
    Dedicated Circuit - (2) 20amp, (1) 15amp
    Ben's IC, Canare 4S11

    **Dayton and Sonicap Caps with Mills Resistors**
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,482
    edited March 2009
    I'm not a big fan of ported subs either. Now with dual Velo SPL-1200R subs flanking my AAD monitors...I'm in music heaven. Seemless integration, extremely musical is an understatement to say the least. There's no turning back now.


    Plus 1 on the Velo's... They are very controlled and in the system I heard them in, I did not know they were there until they were turned off.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited March 2009
    Velo SPL. Polks new subs sound great also, but we know how loud you like to listen.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2009
    Here are the sub drivers I have.
    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-420
    The question is what type of box to put them in. A while ago I would have considered cardboard with an air hole, but I don't think I can veneer cardboard as well as MDF:(
    I really like passives, but I have never had sealed. The thing I have against sealed is that they roll off too high. My main thing is music, but I do want them to dig deep for HT use too. Also SPL is not really a major concern anymore. No more 126db burst. I hit 115 max on a rare occasion. I have matured a bit when it comes to listening. Moderate levels are more appreciated.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • Ron Temple
    Ron Temple Posts: 3,212
    edited March 2009
    shadowofnight has been fooking around with 15"D, 18"PR design for awhile. Don't know if he ever built it, but I do know he's got all the parts and unassembled box. You might shoot him a PM and ask. My experience with a 12/12" D/PR design from GR was very positive. I thought it hit as hard and visceral as a ported box, but was tighter and more musical. fredv has that sub now. I still miss it. That driver looks nice.

    Combo rig:

    Onkyo NR1007 pre-pro, Carver TFM 45(fronts), Carver TFM 35 (surrounds)
    SDA 1C, CS400i, SDA 2B
    PB13Ultra RO
    BW Silvers
    Oppo BDP-83SE
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2009
    What I like about PR's is you can tune a smaller box down low where if in the same small box you tried to port it the port would eat up the box space. Also port noise just sucks. I may shoot SON a PM. I have 2 3.3cf boxes. I may just build one sealed, and one with PR's.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • tryrrthg
    tryrrthg Posts: 1,896
    edited March 2009
    ben62670 wrote: »
    The thing I have against sealed is that they roll off too high.
    They do, but they often roll off at the same rate that room gain kicks in so if you load them up in a corner they can play lower thanks to room gain. And thanks to room gain you get a flat response down low instead of too much with ported sub, which is capable of playing lower + room gain can often lead to too much bass.

    The reason ported subs often sound sloppy for music is because they play lower, and low bass is often confused with "slow" bass. A well EQ'd, or set up, ported sub can sound just as good with music - see some of REL subs. A well designed ported sub should never have port noise. if they do they are under-ported (not enough port area)
    Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2009
    When I did my sonosub I used a 30x6" port with around 10cf for the tube. The port noise wasn't too bad, and it was actually pretty good for music, but I am trying to get away from the ghetto looking huge system. It's great if you have a room for it, but this stuff is in my living room. The thing that kinda sucks is where my system is there are no corners unless I run them in the back of the room. Some think that bass isn't directional, and may not be at the lower ends, but I do know where it is coming from. Also timing can be a concern if I use the rear corners of the room.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited March 2009
    ben62670 wrote: »
    I may just build one sealed, and one with PR's.

    Keep it simple -- just build two sealed subs and be done with it. Build your subs for music and don't worry about how they'll perform for HT. Listen to tryrrthg.

    What are you gonna power them with? What are you gonna use as a crossover?
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited March 2009
    ben62670 wrote: »
    The thing that kinda sucks is where my system is there are no corners unless I run them in the back of the room. Some think that bass isn't directional, and may not be at the lower ends, but I do know where it is coming from. Also timing can be a concern if I use the rear corners of the room.

    You're right -- bass ain't non-directional. Forget about the rear corners. They belong up front with your speakers.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2009
    Early B. wrote: »
    You're right -- bass ain't non-directional. Forget about the rear corners. They belong up front with your speakers.

    You've been to my place. I may end up putting the speakers where the couch is, and the couch where the system is. I would just have to make something for the roll down screen to cover the windows. Also if I did that I could get the amps out of the living room. They are good for heating, but it is about that time of year when things start heating up.
    Thanks guys your opinions are very much appreciated.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • tryrrthg
    tryrrthg Posts: 1,896
    edited March 2009
    here is my thread from my DIY sub. the sub is 4.5 cubic feet, or so, sealed 15" sub. Room is 13x22 or so. You can get an idea what room gain can do from this post, sub was calibrated between 70 and 75 dBs and that is the volume setting the sweep was run at. It is still at calibration level at 20hz.

    LINK to post

    You're obviously a technical guy. Get yourself a Behringer Feedback destroyer to EQ and use Room EQ Wizard on your computer. It's a really great (free) tool to get a nice flat response.
    Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15
  • janmike
    janmike Posts: 6,146
    edited March 2009
    Ben, I used to own a REL sub for music and if I ever purchased another sub just for music I would seriously consider REL. Very musical. Good luck.
    Michael ;)
    In the beginning, all knowledge was new!

    NORTH of 60°
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2009
    I have REW but I only have a Rat Shack SPL meter for the mic. I am not sure what I am going to do yet for the XO. I most likely will make an active unit. I do want to learn how to make bass boost circuits. I don't like lots of pots and other things in the signal path so I feel that it would be the best route for SQ. For a Q of .7 it wants a 3.4 foot box. If I went a little smaller I could stuff the chamber, and use the lower half of my custom SDA's. The top would be sealed and roll off around 90hz. The sub would have to take care of 80 and below. I may even try crossing it higher to take more load off the mids. I did read your whole thread Troy.
    Thanks
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • tryrrthg
    tryrrthg Posts: 1,896
    edited March 2009
    ben62670 wrote: »
    I have REW but I only have a Rat Shack SPL meter for the mic. I am not sure what I am going to do yet for the XO. I most likely will make an active unit. I do want to learn how to make bass boost circuits. I don't like lots of pots and other things in the signal path so I feel that it would be the best route for SQ. For a Q of .7 it wants a 3.4 foot box. If I went a little smaller I could stuff the chamber, and use the lower half of my custom SDA's. The top would be sealed and roll off around 90hz. The sub would have to take care of 80 and below. I may even try crossing it higher to take more load off the mids. I did read your whole thread Troy.
    Thanks
    Ben
    For a music sub you want a Q that is approaching 0.5, or so I have read. I would have gone that route but I couldn't build a box much bigger without really pissing off my wife...

    For an X-over you could look at the Paradigm X-30, or Outlaw ICBM.
    Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2009
    For a Q of .5 I would need a 12^3' box! Not happening:(
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • tryrrthg
    tryrrthg Posts: 1,896
    edited March 2009
    ben62670 wrote: »
    For a Q of .5 I would need a 12^3' box! Not happening:(
    That doesn't sound right... seems way too big. I don't have any way to model it at work so I guess I have to take your word for it.
    Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15