Recommend a CD player for my 2 channel

Norm Apter
Norm Apter Posts: 1,036
edited December 2009 in 2 Channel Audio
A few weeks ago, Dave (daboyz) started a similar thread and thus I thought it might be a good idea to draw on the collective wisdom/experience here in an effort to at least narrow it down to fewer choices. I've read tons of old threads/reviews on players here at CP, but I think that system synergy is particularly important. Here's what I have and what I'm looking for:

My current CDP is a Marantz CD-5001. I bought it last April (just a few weeks before I joined CP). At at its $300 price point, I think its a very good player but since the time I purchased it, I have replaced virtually every other item in my system (aside from speakers) and thus I think its pretty clear that my CDP is the "weakest link."

The key items to keep in mind are the components that would be running in conjunction with this CD player:

Parasound Halo A23 amp
Parasound Halo P3 pre
LSi9 loudspeakers (with Shotgun S-3 interconnects, pre to amp and pre to CDP)

Now, I don't have much comparative listening experience but it seems that most people characterize the sound of the LSi9s as laid back and the Parasound stuff seems fairly neutral to me. Individually, I'm very happy with the LSi9s and the Parasound gear and have no plans to move on from either at any point in the near future.

But given this combo, here's what I'm looking for in a source: warmth and a more upfront/aggressive sound. I feel like even this lower-tier Marantz offers plenty of detail for me and thus I'm not particularly concerned with detailed sound.

Budgetary Perimeters: around $500-$600 for something used and maybe up to $700 for something new (some flexibility here).

In sum, I've kind of had this benchmark in mind for what the LSi9s can do ever since listening to them for the first time in a Crutchfield showroom. Unlike Fry's, Crutchfield seemed to have them hooked up to some top-notch gear. Man, they just blew me away. They sounded much more alive and warm than what I've been been experiencing. Now, I realize that this does not come down exclusively to the choice of a CDP, but nevertheless I'd like to take this step to get as close as possible to that standard etched in my mind.

If you are familiar with the sound of LSis and Parasound gear, maybe you can make a suggestion or two.

Norm
2 Ch.
Parasound Halo A23 Amp
Parasound Halo P3 Preamp
Parasound Halo T3 Tuner
Bada HD22SE tube CD Player
Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth
Magnum Dynalab ST-2 antenna
polkaudio Lsi9s (upgraded cross-overs)
MIT Shotgun S-3 Bi-wire Interface Speaker Cables
MIT Shotgun S-3 Interconnects (3)
IegO L70530 Power cords (3)

HT
Denon 2808ci AVR
polkaudio RTi A5s (fronts)
polkaudio RTi A1s (rears)
polkaudio Csi A6 (center)
Signal Cable Ultra Speaker Cables
Signal Cable Analog II Interconnects
Post edited by Norm Apter on
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Comments

  • fbm211
    fbm211 Posts: 1,488
    edited February 2009
    Rotel maybe.Or check out audiogoN for something like this maybe-- http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?dgtlplay&1240267943&/Marantz-SA-8260

    Its even in CA too. Or you could go with a theta transport and a DAC.
    SDA-2BTL with custom IC
    Adcom 565 monoblocks--Monarchy Audio M-10 preamp
    Theta Data Basic Transport--Stello DA100 Signature DAC--Camelot Dragon Pro2 MK III
    Harman Kardon T-55c TT
    DH Labs Q-10 Signature Speaker Cables With Furez silver plated copper bananas
    Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver Reference AES/EBU
    Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver i2s digital cable
    4 Furutech FP-314Ag with FI-11cu Plugs/FI-11AG IECs--- Power Cords
    DH LABS REVELATIONS ICs-amps
    Revelation Audio Labs Paradise cryo-silver ICs-Source to pre
  • tcrossma
    tcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited February 2009
    I'm currently in about the same situation as you Norm, and a CDP will be my next upgrade as well. My current top choices are a Jolida JD-100, or some model of Cary. The Cary's are a bit more money, but that's the way I'm leaning.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited February 2009
    A mid-priced CD player that's not bad is the Onkyo DX-7555 at 699 MSRP. I'd listen to it first.

    I also like the Pioneer Elite PD-D9J superaudio CD player for a bit more.

    Cambridge Audio also makes some nice mid-range players in the 1000+/- range.

    Take a listen and see what you think.

    I now turn this over to our Gurus for the Ultimate High End Audiophile player.

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • erniejade
    erniejade Posts: 6,321
    edited February 2009
    I 2nd the Jolida. It is a well built unit. Hell the remote even weighs a ton lol.

    Plus you can change the sound if you don't like it by tube rolling.


    Mine has been rock solid.

    I got mine used for around 500. On agon they come up often and sometimes already modified.
    Klipsch The Nines, Audioquest Thunderbird Interconnect, Innuos Zen MK3 W4S recovery, Revolution Audio Labs USB & Ethernet, Border Patrol SE-I, Audioquest Niagara 5000 & Thunder, Cullen Crossover II PC's.
  • danz1906
    danz1906 Posts: 5,144
    edited February 2009
    Try the Rotel 1072 player:cool:
    Linn AV5140 fronts
    Linn AV5120 Center
    Linn AV5140 Rears
    M&K MX-70 Sub for Music
    Odyssey Mono-Blocs
    SVS Ultra-13 Gloss Black:D
  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited February 2009
    I like that Rotel too. And of course the tube versions mentioned are items I've not heard so do consider those if you've got the bankroll for it.

    On another note. I'm looking into the Parasound Halo 21 (it's on my shortlist) so I was wondering how you like the sound from your 23?

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited February 2009
    I love my Rotel 1072. It's gotten the same raves that the 855 got back 19 years ago which is why I replaced it with the 1072 when the time came.

    Russ did a write up on it sometime ago. I'll see if I can find it.

    Bingo!

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36450&highlight=rotel+1072
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited February 2009
    It might be worth a try,, an older rotel 855,, modded by Musical Concepts,, for solid state,or a Jolida JD 100,in the tubed dept. Good luck.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • Gaara
    Gaara Posts: 2,415
    edited February 2009
    Jolida JD-100. Best CDP I have used, but I have only used a few.

    Search way back, there use to be tons of threads ranting and raving about this CDP. It was definitely warm, but I don't recall if it was aggressive sounding, but those old threads should let you know.

    Another + is it is silver so it will better match your Halo gear.
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,033
    edited February 2009
    I hate to sound like I am part of a bandwagon here as this player has been mentioned a lot already but I have to nod toward the Jolida JD-100 with my experience. It was actually recommended to me as well and I swapped a brand spankin' new Rega Apollo out for the Jolida and I was very pleased with the decision and the end result to what it did for my rig.

    It will give you all the warmth you would ever need and IMO it's a very musical source [ I am currently running Sovtek's]. It is not, however, a more forward player. It's more laid back which I tend to prefer for a multitude of reasons, mainly for the spacial location of the instruments/singers within the sound stage. If you insist on a forward sound, then the Rega Apollo or above players would be a good choice, but they are not anywhere near as warm as the Joilda. Both players mentioned respond well to a PC upgrade.

    I have finished my search until I decide to go really high end for my source. I'm surprisingly and pleasantly satisfied with staying where I'm at for now. Good luck in your search. Hopefully this helps.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,033
    edited February 2009
    Norm, allow me to elaborate on the forward / laid back thing for a second as I'm not too up to par with audiophile "terms". My understanding may differ from yours so I'd like to take this opportunity to describe what I mean by forward and laid back.

    When I had the Rega Apollo in my rig, it was as if the entire sound stage was right parallel or on an axial plane with the two main speakers...if not a little forward of the speakers. Sometimes when the lead singer was belting out some notes, it would seem as if she/he was about maybe a foot out in front of you or "in your face". Most of the background singers and instruments would stay at or near the speakers [hardly ever go way behind] which produced to me a limited or "squished" sound stage, if you will. It was hard for the speakers to disappear because everything was most always in front of the speakers.

    Now, when I got the Jolida the first thing I noticed was the deepened sound stage. It wasn't odd to me at all, I actually instantly preferred it. The more I got to listening to my favorite tracks and reference recordings, the more I noticed that the background singers were now 10' back behind the speakers and the lead singer was no longer "in your face". Everything seemed to take a spatial presence as if you were [more realistically] actually there at the venue because the sound stage was bigger. In other words, it was easier to tell if the background singers were way behind the lead singer, or just a couple of feet. This did not happen with just the singers though. Most all of the instruments and singers took on a more pinpoint presence concerning the spatial cues of location within the sound stage.

    Man, I hope I made myself clear as I can't think of any other way to say it. Anyhoo, that's what I mean between forward and laid back if it differs at all from your meaning or understanding.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • Norm Apter
    Norm Apter Posts: 1,036
    edited February 2009
    treitz3 wrote: »
    Norm, allow me to elaborate on the forward / laid back thing for a second as I'm not too up to par with audiophile "terms". My understanding may differ from yours so I'd like to take this opportunity to describe what I mean by forward and laid back.

    When I had the Rega Apollo in my rig, it was as if the entire sound stage was right parallel or on an axial plane with the two main speakers...if not a little forward of the speakers. Sometimes when the lead singer was belting out some notes, it would seem as if she/he was about maybe a foot out in front of you or "in your face". Most of the background singers and instruments would stay at or near the speakers [hardly ever go way behind] which produced to me a limited or "squished" sound stage, if you will. It was hard for the speakers to disappear because everything was most always in front of the speakers.

    Now, when I got the Jolida the first thing I noticed was the deepened sound stage. It wasn't odd to me at all, I actually instantly preferred it. The more I got to listening to my favorite tracks and reference recordings, the more I noticed that the background singers were now 10' back behind the speakers and the lead singer was no longer "in your face". Everything seemed to take a spatial presence as if you were [more realistically] actually there at the venue because the sound stage was bigger. In other words, it was easier to tell if the background singers were way behind the lead singer, or just a couple of feet. This did not happen with just the singers though. Most all of the instruments and singers took on a more pinpoint presence concerning the spatial cues of location within the sound stage.

    Man, I hope I made myself clear as I can't think of any other way to say it. Anyhoo, that's what I mean between forward and laid back if it differs at all from your meaning or understanding.

    Thanks for taking the time to clarify how, precisely, you define those terms. Actually, its my fault for not defining them better in my original post. What you say makes sense -- the spacial aspects associated with soundstage.

    I see the term "laid back" often applied to Lsi 9 speakers (or the Lsi series in general). Maybe folks are using the term "laid back" as counterpoint to a forward sound, as you've portrayed it.

    So, maybe its not about a laid back vs. forward dynamic for me, but rather I just want something to liven things up a bit for the Lsi9s. I tend to associate warmth with a more "live / alive" sound, so if the Jolida JD-100 has an abundance warmth as you and others seem to indicate maybe that is the key feature that I should be seeking.

    I have several of the RtiA series speakers in my Home Theatre and while I do prefer the Lsi9s (and their control) for 2 channel listening, I would like to add at least a little bit of the live feeling that the RtiA series seems to have in spades.

    It is tough to express this stuff in words.
    2 Ch.
    Parasound Halo A23 Amp
    Parasound Halo P3 Preamp
    Parasound Halo T3 Tuner
    Bada HD22SE tube CD Player
    Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 antenna
    polkaudio Lsi9s (upgraded cross-overs)
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Bi-wire Interface Speaker Cables
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Interconnects (3)
    IegO L70530 Power cords (3)

    HT
    Denon 2808ci AVR
    polkaudio RTi A5s (fronts)
    polkaudio RTi A1s (rears)
    polkaudio Csi A6 (center)
    Signal Cable Ultra Speaker Cables
    Signal Cable Analog II Interconnects
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited February 2009
    Keep the CD player and use it as a digital transport to an external DAC. A DAC in your price range, which just received a decent review in the current issue of "sterophile", is the Cambrige-Audio DacMagic at $399. The reviewer used a 15 year old Marantz CD player as the transport, and said the DacMagic provided audio essentially equivelant to the $1600 Cambridge-Audio 840C CD player.

    DacMagic
    http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CADACMAGI

    840C CD player
    http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CA840C
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited February 2009
    I've been doing a lot of shopping around for a CDP lately myself. That's one of the next upgrades I've got in mind.

    I've been looking at the Rotel 1072, the Marantz 5300 and Sony SCD-C2000ES. I'm still researching other options though. SACD playback would definitely be a plus, and it seems like the Sony is one of the only SACD players in the 400ish price range.

    Sorry to threadjack you Norm, but does anyone have any other recommendations for SACD players in the 350-450 range?
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • bikezappa
    bikezappa Posts: 2,463
    edited February 2009
    Norm

    Not sure what goals you have for your system.

    In my experience the recording engineer (for lp or cd) has the most profound effect on the tunes and sound you hera on your system.

    The next important item is your speaker and room combination.
    Not sure what has a bigger influence.

    From there you can add the electronics and any other stuff.

    I will assume that you love music and want to listen to it in your room.

    If the music you like is electronic then just about anything can be made to sound good to you because there is no standard. An electronic guitar can be made to sound in any manner. It's up to you to decide how it should sound. You have all the control to make it the way you want it and you can use an amplifier and speakers to make as loud as you want. This is called just trust your ears. However, if you are trying to reproduce acoustic music and/or vocals then you should spend time listening to live music and comparing it to your room system.

    If you don't know how a violin sounds then just about any system that plays loud will make you happy.

    My point in this long BS rant is that you consider comparing you favorite live music to a recording of it as the best test and as a guide for future purchases. Gathering some ones opinion of how one electronic thing compares to another may not be helpful for YOUR ears.
  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited February 2009
    Norm,I've had a Rotel 1072,the AH! 4000 which is a modded Marantz,and currently have a Jolida JD-100A in the mix.

    The Jolida trumps the other two players in Spades...at least to "my ears".

    Like Tom,I have had a pair of Sovtech tubes,some EI Elite Gold Pins,some EH,and most recently a pair of cheap Russian made Mullards,that really sound quite good.

    The beauty part of this type player is that you can taylor the sound that trips YOUR trigger.
  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited February 2009
    I told you the boys would weigh in here. You learn something every day.

    I am familiar with tube CD players but not with this one...and I always thought they were ALL out of my price range. But it seems like this Jolida JD-100A can be had for around what some of the other players I listed above.

    Now I'm curious as well.

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • Norm Apter
    Norm Apter Posts: 1,036
    edited February 2009
    cnh wrote: »
    I told you the boys would weigh in here. You learn something every day.

    I am familiar with tube CD players but not with this one...and I always thought they were ALL out of my price range. But it seems like this Jolida JD-100A can be had for around what some of the other players I listed above.

    Now I'm curious as well.

    cnh

    Yes, this has been an awesome resource for knowledge and well-informed opinions.

    I was just looking over the responses again, and I noticed that you asked about the Halo A23 and that you are considering the A21, the more powerful big brother. Well, I do like it a lot and as I mentioned can't see moving up to anything else for quite some time. I can't really speak with any authority though because I bought it blindly, without comparing it to ones in the same sort of league -- Rotel, B&K, Adcom. In fact, several people here at CP suggested it as a good mate for Lsi9s. I bought it purely based on their recommendations and I don't regret it one bit.
    2 Ch.
    Parasound Halo A23 Amp
    Parasound Halo P3 Preamp
    Parasound Halo T3 Tuner
    Bada HD22SE tube CD Player
    Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 antenna
    polkaudio Lsi9s (upgraded cross-overs)
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Bi-wire Interface Speaker Cables
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Interconnects (3)
    IegO L70530 Power cords (3)

    HT
    Denon 2808ci AVR
    polkaudio RTi A5s (fronts)
    polkaudio RTi A1s (rears)
    polkaudio Csi A6 (center)
    Signal Cable Ultra Speaker Cables
    Signal Cable Analog II Interconnects
  • Norm Apter
    Norm Apter Posts: 1,036
    edited February 2009
    Norm,I've had a Rotel 1072,the AH! 4000 which is a modded Marantz,and currently have a Jolida JD-100A in the mix.

    The Jolida trumps the other two players in Spades...at least to "my ears".

    Like Tom,I have had a pair of Sovtech tubes,some EI Elite Gold Pins,some EH,and most recently a pair of cheap Russian made Mullards,that really sound quite good.

    The beauty part of this type player is that you can taylor the sound that trips YOUR trigger.

    Hi Mike,

    Is your Jolida modded or a standard/ stock unit. I noticed that the AH! 4000 model is modded, but wasn't sure about your Jolida. Whether it is or not, I was wondering if you put some thought into that when you bought it -- did that play a role in deciding upon the unit that you picked up.

    Just trying to straighten out the difference between two types of variables: modded and switching tubes. I know that they mean different things, but am wondering if these two variations speak to categorically different kinds of sound/improvement.
    2 Ch.
    Parasound Halo A23 Amp
    Parasound Halo P3 Preamp
    Parasound Halo T3 Tuner
    Bada HD22SE tube CD Player
    Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 antenna
    polkaudio Lsi9s (upgraded cross-overs)
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Bi-wire Interface Speaker Cables
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Interconnects (3)
    IegO L70530 Power cords (3)

    HT
    Denon 2808ci AVR
    polkaudio RTi A5s (fronts)
    polkaudio RTi A1s (rears)
    polkaudio Csi A6 (center)
    Signal Cable Ultra Speaker Cables
    Signal Cable Analog II Interconnects
  • rru2s
    rru2s Posts: 90
    edited February 2009
    i have the sony ES series circa 1990+ and the marantz 5001. Hard to tell the difference. Put your money in speakers instead.
    Living Room system: 52"HDTV, 4 Mon.70s, Epik Valor, Outlaw RR2150
    Bedroom System: 2 Mon.60s,Velo VRP1200, HK3490
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,565
    edited February 2009
    rru2s wrote: »
    i have the sony ES series circa 1990+ and the marantz 5001. Hard to tell the difference. Put your money in speakers instead.

    Interesting comment. Have you listened to the LSi9's? What speakers would you recommend? What speakers do you own?

    I firmly believe it all starts with the source.....garbage in, garbage out. Have you ever considered that aspect?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,565
    edited February 2009
    Norm, if I may......

    Mods build a better base to work from, if you will. While rolling tubes fine tunes or tailors the final sound.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,899
    edited February 2009
    If your system is laid back already, the Jolida may not be the best fit. I had the Jolida in a laid back system and, while it was nice, I wasn't blown away or anything. I found a great deal on a Music Hall CD 25.2 thinking I could sell it if I didn't like it, and I ended up selling the Jolida instead.
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
  • CRESCENDOPOWER
    CRESCENDOPOWER Posts: 153
    edited February 2009
    Norm Apter wrote: »
    I have several of the RtiA series speakers in my Home Theatre and while I do prefer the Lsi9s (and their control) for 2 channel listening, I would like to add at least a little bit of the live feeling that the RtiA series seems to have in spades.

    A used Benchmark DAC off of Audiogon might liven things up for you.:D
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited February 2009
    Go to "Quest for Sound" Stephen will work with your budget and do you right.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited February 2009
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Keep the CD player and use it as a digital transport to an external DAC. A DAC in your price range, which just received a decent review in the current issue of "sterophile", is the Cambrige-Audio DacMagic at $399. The reviewer used a 15 year old Marantz CD player as the transport, and said the DacMagic provided audio essentially equivelant to the $1600 Cambridge-Audio 840C CD player.

    DacMagic
    http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CADACMAGI

    840C CD player
    http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CA840C
    I would not consider either one of those laid back.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • Norm Apter
    Norm Apter Posts: 1,036
    edited February 2009
    Face wrote: »
    I would not consider either one of those laid back.

    Face,

    If I'm not mistaken you once had, and seemed to be impressed by, the Marantz SACD-8001, but subsquently reached a point where you were not particularly impressed, to put it charitably.

    Is this the case? What happened?

    Additionally, may I know what you have moved on to, or plan to move on to?
    2 Ch.
    Parasound Halo A23 Amp
    Parasound Halo P3 Preamp
    Parasound Halo T3 Tuner
    Bada HD22SE tube CD Player
    Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 antenna
    polkaudio Lsi9s (upgraded cross-overs)
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Bi-wire Interface Speaker Cables
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Interconnects (3)
    IegO L70530 Power cords (3)

    HT
    Denon 2808ci AVR
    polkaudio RTi A5s (fronts)
    polkaudio RTi A1s (rears)
    polkaudio Csi A6 (center)
    Signal Cable Ultra Speaker Cables
    Signal Cable Analog II Interconnects
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited February 2009
    You followed very closely.

    I was never very fond of the 8001's high end. Bass is solid and clean, mids were fluid, but I found the highs recess and grainy...I never knew the two could co-exist. This wasn't apparent right away though, once I removed my severely colored preamp and went passive it became obvious though.

    Since then I've moved to the Cambridge 840C. It's a better sounding player and has much better synergy with my rig, but I'm not sure it's what you're looking for since I would not consider it warm at all. I also have a DacMagic on order for my other rig.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • Norm Apter
    Norm Apter Posts: 1,036
    edited February 2009
    F1nut wrote: »
    Norm, if I may......

    Mods build a better base to work from, if you will. While rolling tubes fine tunes or tailors the final sound.

    If I could add a follow-up question on mods, Jesse:

    I have periodically checked out various Jolida JD-100 units available on A-gon. I see that modded units list various companies which have done the work: (i.e. Underwood Hi-fi, Affordable Audio, Parts Connexion).

    I read in other threads that you have a pretty killer modded unit, so I'm wondering if you went with a machine that was modded by one of the companies that I have listed above. Any of those companies, as best you know, have a particularly good (or poor) reputation?

    Second, I see the term "Level 1 mod" and "Level 2 mod" used to describe the work completed: is there a particular standard -- accross companies -- for what a "Level 1 mod", for instance, designates? Or does this vary from one company to another?

    Norm
    2 Ch.
    Parasound Halo A23 Amp
    Parasound Halo P3 Preamp
    Parasound Halo T3 Tuner
    Bada HD22SE tube CD Player
    Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 antenna
    polkaudio Lsi9s (upgraded cross-overs)
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Bi-wire Interface Speaker Cables
    MIT Shotgun S-3 Interconnects (3)
    IegO L70530 Power cords (3)

    HT
    Denon 2808ci AVR
    polkaudio RTi A5s (fronts)
    polkaudio RTi A1s (rears)
    polkaudio Csi A6 (center)
    Signal Cable Ultra Speaker Cables
    Signal Cable Analog II Interconnects
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,565
    edited February 2009
    Good questions.

    Underwood is the retailer for Parts Connexion, so basically one and the same. I like their mods the best, however I totally disagree with their comments about upgrading the clock.

    "We do not recommend upgrading the clock on the JD-100. It voids the factory warranty and dramatically lowers reliability. If anyone recommends upgrading the clock you should call Jolida to verify this and realize that they do not have your best interests in mind."

    I fail to see how it could affect the reliability at all unless the replacement clock wasn't of good quality. My player has a Trichord Research clock, which has been trouble free and is vastly superior to the stock clock.

    There is no standard, the mod level offerings do vary from company to company. For the money I feel that Parts Connexion offers the best deal.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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