SDA 1C wood replacement

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Comments

  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,135
    edited January 2009
    Thanks Ben. Duly noted.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • John30_30
    John30_30 Posts: 1,024
    edited January 2009
    ben62670 wrote: »
    I never had that problem. If the bearing is good, and you set the depth correctly you won't pick up any glue. If the bearing is that bad it would also mar the veneer. I was fortunate enough to have 3 friends with cabinet shops in the rental complex I used to work at:) I learned lots of tips, and always had the tools I needed minus the bits. Never lube a router bit with any sort of oil. If it is bad buy a new one. If it is bad the bit is most likely on its way out.

    Edit: Just like soldering take some small pieces and try it for yourself. This way if you mess up who cares. You want it done right the first time.

    I've had a cabinet shop for 25 years, been doing it alot longer. Truthfully, I never had that issue with veneer, but often did several times with formica laminate,which is basically thin layers of paper and much messier. I'd have to soak my bits in lacquer thinner. You can set it up perfect with a small piece, doesn't matter.
    But I'm talking contact glue also, which I think is latex-based, and that makes all the difference in making a gummy, nasty mess.:eek:;)

    I generally use a solid 1/4" carbide bit with a face cut flat, no bearing, for most stuff anymore.
    That or a 2nd trim bit with a bevel for the pass over finished material, but with veneer it's probably not necessary. Until that first time it bites you in the ****.