SDA 1C wood replacement

treitz3

I'm considering a complete replacement of the top and bottom wood caps. They are currently oak and I would like to replace them with Cherry wood in a darker stain. They will then have a protective coat over the stain.

Couple of questions before I start this project;

First off, when I go to pull the caps off. What is the best way to do so without damaging the speaker? I want the end result to look professional like it just left the factory.

Also, what kind of protective clear coat would you recommend? The clear coat I would like to spray on if possible for a professional look. If that's not a good option, what would you recommend?

I got these speakers from our very own MillerLiteScott and they are in great shape [Thanks again!], I would just like to have them match the kitchen cabinets combined with the fact that the other half does not prefer oak. After I am done with this project, it's off to do the same thing with my VMPS Larger. That way, the rig will look uniform and will also match the room.

leroyjr1

treitz3 wrote: »

I would just like to have them match the kitchen cabinets combined with the fact that the other half does not prefer oak.

Man, you run 1C's in the kitchen.:D

leroyjr1

Lasareath wrote: »

On the 1C's the top and bottom are just glued on.

Mine had staples and glue.

comfortablycurt

Lasareath wrote: »

Tom,

On the 1C's the top and bottom are just glued on. Take a 2 or 3" metal putty knife and force the knife between the cabinet and wood end caps.

Do it from the back of the speaker. and gently pry them loose

Some woods require the use of water based shellack and some look better with an oil based. you really need to do some research on that particular wood.

Make sure you make the end caps slightly larger than what you need, you can always sand them down more to match up the originals.

You don't want to use Cocobolo Rosewood?

I say you should use that wood. That stuff has an awesome looking grain...

leroyjr1

Lasareath wrote: »

I have a pair of SRS 2's that I will use that wood on eventually.

I also love AMBOYNA BURL:

http://cgi.ebay.com/EXOTIC-AMBOYNA-BURL-HUGE-BOOKMATCHED-TABLE-TOP-GIGANTIC_W0QQitemZ120365890732QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item120365890732&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A3%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318



This are the people I bought my wood from:

http://www.cookwoods.com/LumberPageMain.htm

They have some very nice wood.

treitz3

I do love the looks of that particular wood Sal, but I'd like everything to match the kitchen cabinets. The cabinets are actually Maple with a cherry type finish. Here's an example of what I'm trying to match.



The speakers aren't actually in the kitchen, they are adjacent to the kitchen though. It's all one big room that's downstairs in my modest little townhouse. My wife is an interior designer and has very nice tastes when it comes to furnishings. The rig used to be upstairs in our geust bedroom / office / listening room that was completely finished in Oak. Since we are expecting a youngin' in July [yes, Kim's pregnant ....our first!] we have had to redo the extra room and put the rig downstairs in the family living room. I don't like having different woods and stains in the same room. That's just a personal preference and we already have a dining room suite that matches the kitchen cabinets. Just trying to coordinate everything for eye candy reasons and this is something that I can do for relatively a low cost.

Like I said, after I'm done with this project, I will redo the VMPS Larger sub I have and I also want to design and custom build a TV / VCR stand that will be directly mounted to the wall. Currently the sub is disabled, holding the TV and the DVD / VCR combo unit is in the rack. I will need that rack space back and as soon as all of this is done, I can hook the SMS-1 and the sub which will be powered by the Odyssey amp back up. This will augment the 1C's for the lower registers and will look very nice in the room.

I'll have to post some recent pic's of the rigs new location.

Mike Reeter

To remove the caps on the 1C's I used a 2x4 block of wood,held it under the leading edge of the top,and tapped the block with a hammer to get it started.

John30_30

I wouldn't recommend using a block and tapping it unless you're pretty sure the glue joint isn't much. Not on a piece of furniture. Take a mini flatbar or a 1 " chisel, or even an old stiff butter knife to use as a wedge, and carefully knock it in. Advantage of a flatbar is you can knock the short end in and pry the cap up by levering it.
Southern maple/birch is easy enough to find some 6/4" or even 8/4" to make caps with,and staining & finishing it to match shouldn't be too difficult either.

Mike Reeter

John30_30 wrote: »

I wouldn't recommend using a block and tapping it unless you're pretty sure the glue joint isn't much. Not on a piece of furniture. Take a mini flatbar or a 1 " chisel, or even an old stiff butter knife to use as a wedge, and carefully knock it in. Advantage of a flatbar is you can knock the short end in and pry the cap up by levering it.
Southern maple/birch is easy enough to find some 6/4" or even 8/4" to make caps with,and staining & finishing it to match shouldn't be too difficult either.

The reason I used a block is that the original caps were going to be discarded...using a block and gently tapping up on the cap will get it started...then using a pry bar to finish the removal.

"If" you are not careful,using a chisel or pry bar can leave an impression on the top edge of the cabinet itself.

The glue on these 20 year old speakers is pretty much powder when removed,the staples is whats "holding" the caps in place...

At least that's my experience

John30_30

Mike Reeter wrote: »

The reason I used a block is that the original caps were going to be discarded...using a block and gently tapping up on the cap will get it started...then using a pry bar to finish the removal.

"If" you are not careful,using a chisel or pry bar can leave an impression on the top edge of the cabinet itself.

The glue on these 20 year old speakers is pretty much powder when removed,the staples is whats "holding" the caps in place...

At least that's my experience

The chisel should be used bevel side up to not mar the top edges. But yeah, if the glue is that deteriorated and as long as the joints of the cabinet itself aren't compromised by the banging, your method would probably be fine.

shack

We need to hear from the "Wood Jedi" (as doro fondly calls him).

Mike Reeter

John30_30 wrote: »

The chisel should be used bevel side up to not mar the top edges. But yeah, if the glue is that deteriorated and as long as the joints of the cabinet itself aren't compromised by the banging, your method would probably be fine.[/QUO

Either method would work just fine,the end result will be an upgraded pair of Polk SDA's to be proud of.

There is more than one way to skin a cat

John30_30

Mike Reeter wrote: »

John30_30 wrote: »

Either method would work just fine,the end result will be an upgraded pair of Polk SDA's to be proud of.

There is more than one way to skin a cat

True enough. But then he has to decide which type cat skin would go with for these SDA's, how to tan it, tack it, etc., etc.:D

Mike Reeter

shack wrote: »

We need to hear from the "Wood Jedi" (as doro fondly calls him).

Yes,we need the CP Pres. to step up here.

F1nut

One of my favorite tools, the 8" Restorer's Cat's Paw.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,43456,43399,32014&p=32014

Gently tap it in at the back edge to get started.

Tom, if you have spray equipment, nitro lacquer or cat lac will do a great job.

nooshinjohn

sand the caps smooth with 30 grit sandpaper and veneer the caps with whatever wood you prefer. the caps were veneer anyway and not solid wood

treitz3

There is an issue with me and veneering. I've never done it. I have all of the tools necessary to make all of the caps from scratch but veneering? I wouldn't even know where to start. I have a feeling that's what I'll end up doing with the VMPS though. Arrgh!

I guess with what I know about speaker building and sound reproduction, I'd better start getting my learn on though. I just don't know how to get the edges right and professional looking. Then there are the rounded corners. Is it easy? I have about every tool I would need and if I didn't, I'd get it.

nooshinjohn

i have never done it before and i got fantastic results... just take your time. My system is on the showcase. I replaced my side panels as well with cherry veneer over clear aspen. the caps have only the tops veneered and the sides of them are the original oak with cherry stain... they look new and sound that way thanks to this forum and those that helped out.

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=92017

ben62670

Bring the caps down/send them down. I have a flush cutter for the veneer. Prep the wood first. Do the band then the top. F1 mentioned a sealer to make the adhesive bond better?

treitz3

Ben, how much does the flush cutter cost, or where might you get a high quality one? Jesse, I have about 8 different types of the claws you provided a link to. I'll have to sharpen whichever one I use because I use them usually for rough jobs and not something that I want to keep in great condition. I have the perfect one in mind and thanks for the tip on where to start. Nooshinjohn, they look great. That'll give me some inspiration.

I appreciate the offers of getting this done for me [many times over] but I would like to do it. I need to learn how to do it in order to do what I have in mind for future projects not even mentioned yet. Some of you might know what that is or what they may be. Most of you won't but I do need to get my learn on. You will see over the years ahead what those projects will be but for now, let's stick with this one.

Face

You can pick up a flush cutter from Parts Express for something like $5, or you can use a router.

treitz3

Well, I have a router so I guess I just need the tip unless I already have it. Cool.

Mike Reeter

nooshinjohn wrote: »

i have never done it before and i got fantastic results... just take your time. My system is on the showcase. I replaced my side panels as well with cherry veneer over clear aspen. the caps have only the tops veneered and the sides of them are the original oak with cherry stain... they look new and sound that way thanks to this forum and those that helped out.

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=92017

Your "new" 1C's look very nice...you did a great job.

I'm getting ready to re-veneer my CRS's,still contemplating which veneer to buy and what color stain to use.

I was thinking Red Oak and an Ebony stain to resemble a Studio version...after seeing that Cherry,I don't know.

davidk0512

treitz3 wrote: »

Ben, how much does the flush cutter cost, or where might you get a high quality one? Jesse, I have about 8 different types of the claws you provided a link to. I'll have to sharpen whichever one I use because I use them usually for rough jobs and not something that I want to keep in great condition. I have the perfect one in mind and thanks for the tip on where to start. Nooshinjohn, they look great. That'll give me some inspiration.

I appreciate the offers of getting this done for me [many times over] but I would like to do it. I need to learn how to do it in order to do what I have in mind for future projects not even mentioned yet. Some of you might know what that is or what they may be. Most of you won't but I do need to get my learn on. You will see over the years ahead what those projects will be but for now, let's stick with this one.

I have one of these, it's a little more expensive, but a quality cutter.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Radzi-Radzi-Veneer-Cutter-23087.htm

But, I actually prefer to use a utility knife with titanium coated blades, to me, the utility knife is easier to control.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=204093-16878-50888&lpage=none

nooshinjohn

do not router on veneer!!! all it will do is chip and break apart

ben62670

nooshinjohn wrote: »

do not router on veneer!!! all it will do is chip and break apart

That's silly. I have used a router on veneer, and if the edge are straight the flush cut bit works well. I do like the utility knife to do the band. Then sand it flush. Then do the top with a flush cut bit and some masking tape to protect the band.

nooshinjohn

I just get nervous around power tools when a flushcutter gets it done easily, and it does not risk making a mistake

strider

I get better results trimming edge banding with a router and flush cutter bit then the trimmer you can get at PE/HD or the veneer supply places.

John30_30

ben62670 wrote: »

That's silly. I have used a router on veneer, and if the edge are straight the flush cut bit works well. I do like the utility knife to do the band. Then sand it flush. Then do the top with a flush cut bit and some masking tape to protect the band.

Don't forget the masking tape. Often times, the bearing on the flush cutter will get glue residue glommed in it so it won't spin freely while you're cutting. You won't know something's up until you see a scar from it or the flat washer spacer. Then it's too late.

treitz3

John, that's good advice. I can see how that could easily happen and that's one thing I wouldn't want to have happen. I hate it when you are so close to perfection and then...... :eek:

Strider, I'll try it that way. It just makes sense. Thanks.

I appreciate everybody's help and advice. After my last post last night I spent about 2-3 hours researching how to veneer. It's apparently an art but one that isn't too terribly hard to do. It looks like I have all the necessary tools to veneer properly already with the exception of a roller. Those are a dime a dozen and pretty cheap. I'm starting to get excited about this project and learning how to veneer in general. Is there any other advise or situations that presented itself when you were trying a project like this that you feel I might need to be aware of?

My research goes on even though I'm DOG tired from last night, but experience is golden. Not just the written "know-how" on how to get the job done in a professional manner. Is there anything else I should [as a novice] need to watch out for?

ben62670

John30_30 wrote: »

Don't forget the masking tape. Often times, the bearing on the flush cutter will get glue residue glommed in it so it won't spin freely while you're cutting. You won't know something's up until you see a scar from it or the flat washer spacer. Then it's too late.

I never had that problem. If the bearing is good, and you set the depth correctly you won't pick up any glue. If the bearing is that bad it would also mar the veneer. I was fortunate enough to have 3 friends with cabinet shops in the rental complex I used to work at:) I learned lots of tips, and always had the tools I needed minus the bits. Never lube a router bit with any sort of oil. If it is bad buy a new one. If it is bad the bit is most likely on its way out.

Edit: Just like soldering take some small pieces and try it for yourself. This way if you mess up who cares. You want it done right the first time.