terminating a coax cable?

Airplay355
Airplay355 Posts: 4,298
edited January 2009 in The Clubhouse
I'm trying to terminate a coax cable I just sent through the wall and I can't figure out how to do it or what the proper way is. I do not have a special tool for terminating the wire, do I need it? What exactly needs to appen in order to make the cable work?

I'm really frustrated and I hope I can get this solved tonight but I have a feeling I'm going to need to go to the hardware store to get the special tool.

Does anyone know if I need special plugs or whatever they are called for hi-def cable? Or does it only really matter what kind of wire I'm using, or does it not really matter at all. Thanks in advance.
Post edited by Airplay355 on

Comments

  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited January 2009
    Video, or audio?
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,185
    edited January 2009
    Go to radio shack and get there coax stripper. It comes with directions on how to properly terminate the cable. If you screw it up, you will not have a 75 ohm connection. This is critical to proper performance.
    You should also get the correct ends and the correct tool to Install them. It might be better to call your cable company and pay for there guys to terminate your wires. It would be cheaper then buying all the tools, failing a few times, wasting a few end and maybe not terminate correctly.

    Dan
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • BIZILL
    BIZILL Posts: 5,432
    edited January 2009
    i use RG-6 for all satellite and cable runs. i use compression terminations and i have a cheap $10 stripper for the RG-6 from ebay and i got a compression tool "crimper" from home depot for like $10 as well.

    POLK SDA-SRS 1.2TL -- ADCOM GFA-5802
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    bobman1235 wrote:
    I have no facts to back that up, but I never let facts get in the way of my arguments.
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited January 2009
    I like the screw on connectors for video. Very easy, and very solid.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • Rivrrat
    Rivrrat Posts: 2,101
    edited January 2009
    ben62670 wrote: »
    I like the screw on connectors for video. Very easy, and very solid.

    +1 on the screw on connectors.
    My equipment sig felt inadequate and deleted itself.
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited January 2009
    Rivrrat wrote: »
    +1 on the screw on connectors.
    I see you have used them. They hold better than crimps, and need no special tools. I used them when I was an electrician. Expensive per piece, but a great connection:)
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • Rivrrat
    Rivrrat Posts: 2,101
    edited January 2009
    I've never had a problem with any of the connections I've done, including replacing a failed crimp on connection outside on my sattelite dish.
    My equipment sig felt inadequate and deleted itself.
  • BIZILL
    BIZILL Posts: 5,432
    edited January 2009
    let me add that i have no idea why i used the term "crimp" on my previous post.

    POLK SDA-SRS 1.2TL -- ADCOM GFA-5802
    PANASONIC PT-AE4000U -- DIY WILSONART DW 135" 2.35:1 SCREEN
    ONKYO TX-SR805
    CENTER: CSI5
    MAINS: RTI8'S
    SURROUNDS: RTI8'S
    7.1 SURROUNDS: RTI6'S
    SUB: SVS PB12-PLUS/2 (12.3 series)

    XBOX 360
    WiiPS3/blu-rayTOSHIBA HD-A35 hd dvd

    http://polkarmy.com/forums/index.php
    bobman1235 wrote:
    I have no facts to back that up, but I never let facts get in the way of my arguments.
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,536
    edited January 2009
    As stated above, get yourself a good quality RG6/RG59 coax sleeve stripper snd crimper. Practice first on some scrap cable as it takes a little bit of finesse to get it right; especially the stripping.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • Airplay355
    Airplay355 Posts: 4,298
    edited January 2009
    Is there a difference between rg6 and rg59? the terminations i bought are rg 59 but i don't think the white part of the insulation is going to fit in those connectors. does that mean i have rg 6 cable?
  • DollarDave
    DollarDave Posts: 2,575
    edited January 2009
    Airplay355 wrote: »
    Is there a difference between rg6 and rg59? the terminations i bought are rg 59 but i don't think the white part of the insulation is going to fit in those connectors. does that mean i have rg 6 cable?

    You might even have RG6q cable and that is slightly larger also. "q" for quad sheilding. Check that before you run out to Home Depot and get RG6 terminators becuase they won't work either if that's the case..
  • Lowell_M
    Lowell_M Posts: 1,660
    edited January 2009
    Screw on connectors are fine, compression is better. DONT USE CRIMP ON CONNECTORS.

    RG6 or RG6 Quad shield would give you the best signal.
    HT
    RTi70 mains
    CSi30 center
    RTi28 Rears
    Velodyne CHT-12
    H/K AVR-247
    ADCOM GFA-7000
    Samsung PN58B860
    Playstation 3

    2-Channel
    Polk Audio LSi15's
    Rotel RCD-1072
    Nakamichi CA-5 Pre
    ADCOM GFA-555
    Signal Cable Analog II IC's
    Signal Ultra Bi-Wire Speaker Cables
  • sucks2beme
    sucks2beme Posts: 5,601
    edited January 2009
    a_mattison wrote: »
    Screw on connectors are fine, compression is better. DONT USE CRIMP ON CONNECTORS.

    RG6 or RG6 Quad shield would give you the best signal.

    What's wrong with crimp, other than 90% of everyone does it wrong?
    Many decades ago, I ran data services on CATV over a huge campus
    area. I must of made thousands of crimps. My biggest problem was
    teaching techs how to properly strip, comb and fold the braid. And most
    of all, use the larger crimp die. Crushing the snot out of the connector
    makes the crimp weaker. The secret was in the prep. I do have
    the new style compression crimps now. At the time, compression
    connectors didn't exist. And I prefer to strip using a utility knife.
    Score, and break works better than cutting all the way through
    and cutting the wire.
    "The legitimate powers of government extend to such acts only as are injurious to others. But it does me no injury for my neighbour to say there are twenty gods, or no god. It neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg." --Thomas Jefferson
  • Airplay355
    Airplay355 Posts: 4,298
    edited January 2009
    Well I used a crimp connector and I have no idea how to properly fold the braid but whatever I did, it's working.

    I didn't use a crimping tool though, I just used some pliers to smush the bottom of the connector a little.

    I bought the compression tool but I guess I didn't need it? I didn't use it.

    If it's working, does that mean I did it correctly? I looked through the channels and I can't see any problems. The line will be carrying an HD signal though so if what I'm doing is going to **** things up I'd appreciate if someone could let me know. It's a 5 min trip to the hardware store so I can go get whatever I need.
  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,771
    edited January 2009
    If it's working, does that mean I did it correctly?

    Not really. Anytime I have seen someone use pliers on a crimp connection, it fails eventually. You should have bought a crimp tool for crimp connections. The compression tool is for compression connections. Pliers don't work well on either.
  • Lowell_M
    Lowell_M Posts: 1,660
    edited January 2009
    sucks2beme wrote: »
    What's wrong with crimp, other than 90% of everyone does it wrong?
    Many decades ago, I ran data services on CATV over a huge campus
    area. I must of made thousands of crimps. My biggest problem was
    teaching techs how to properly strip, comb and fold the braid. And most
    of all, use the larger crimp die. Crushing the snot out of the connector
    makes the crimp weaker. The secret was in the prep. I do have
    the new style compression crimps now. At the time, compression
    connectors didn't exist. And I prefer to strip using a utility knife.
    Score, and break works better than cutting all the way through
    and cutting the wire.

    That's the problem... 90% of everyone does it wrong.
    HT
    RTi70 mains
    CSi30 center
    RTi28 Rears
    Velodyne CHT-12
    H/K AVR-247
    ADCOM GFA-7000
    Samsung PN58B860
    Playstation 3

    2-Channel
    Polk Audio LSi15's
    Rotel RCD-1072
    Nakamichi CA-5 Pre
    ADCOM GFA-555
    Signal Cable Analog II IC's
    Signal Ultra Bi-Wire Speaker Cables
  • sucks2beme
    sucks2beme Posts: 5,601
    edited January 2009
    a_mattison wrote: »
    That's the problem... 90% of everyone does it wrong.

    Looks to be the case. Google is your friend. There's a bunch of sites with how-to
    pictures. Always match connectors to the cable.
    "The legitimate powers of government extend to such acts only as are injurious to others. But it does me no injury for my neighbour to say there are twenty gods, or no god. It neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg." --Thomas Jefferson