Good Starter Wire?

gacole2000
gacole2000 Posts: 255
Can anybody suggest some decent wire that is not too expensive. I just upgraded to 6.1 (Yamaha 5590) and don't have a lot of money for good wire. In short, what is the best bang for the buck. Thanks - Greg
AVR: Yamaha RX-V661
DVD: Yamaha DV-C6480
BR: Samsung 1600
Mains: Polk RT55 (bi-amped)
Center: CS300
Sides: FX1000
Rears: RT/FX
Subs: SVS 20-39 PC+ 12.3 & DIY SVS 12.2
Projector: Optoma HD70 w/ 106" Elite Screen
Power: Panamax MAX 5100
Remote: Harmony One
Post edited by gacole2000 on

Comments

  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,987
    edited January 2003
    16/2 lamp cord. Not Home Depot/Lowes 'speaker wire', actual lamp cord. I prefer the black casing. $.16/ft or so. I dare you to hear a difference between it and Monster XP.

    If thats too cheap, we can kick it up a notch, say the word.

    Cheers,
    Rooster
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • gacole2000
    gacole2000 Posts: 255
    edited January 2003
    We could go up a notch. Thanks for your help!

    Greg
    AVR: Yamaha RX-V661
    DVD: Yamaha DV-C6480
    BR: Samsung 1600
    Mains: Polk RT55 (bi-amped)
    Center: CS300
    Sides: FX1000
    Rears: RT/FX
    Subs: SVS 20-39 PC+ 12.3 & DIY SVS 12.2
    Projector: Optoma HD70 w/ 106" Elite Screen
    Power: Panamax MAX 5100
    Remote: Harmony One
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,987
    edited January 2003
    What do you have for speakers/amps, and how long are your wire runs? Let's start there.

    Cheers,
    Rooster
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • gacole2000
    gacole2000 Posts: 255
    edited January 2003
    Yamaha HTR-5590 Receiver (110x6)
    Boston A-100 main 12-15 ft
    BA A-70 surrounds 30-40 ft
    Polk CS400i main center 6 ft
    Polk CS175i rear center 35 ft
    Polk PSW350 sub 10 ft

    Thanks again- Greg
    AVR: Yamaha RX-V661
    DVD: Yamaha DV-C6480
    BR: Samsung 1600
    Mains: Polk RT55 (bi-amped)
    Center: CS300
    Sides: FX1000
    Rears: RT/FX
    Subs: SVS 20-39 PC+ 12.3 & DIY SVS 12.2
    Projector: Optoma HD70 w/ 106" Elite Screen
    Power: Panamax MAX 5100
    Remote: Harmony One
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,200
    edited January 2003
    what does too expensive mean?
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,987
    edited January 2003
    Are you looking for pre-terminated wire, or will you go bare-wire or terminate yourself?

    And as Tweeter Dee said, what's too expensive? What's your budget, ballpark at least?

    Cheers,
    Rooster

    Ps: Boston A100's, what a GREAT speaker.
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • gacole2000
    gacole2000 Posts: 255
    edited January 2003
    Obviously a subjective term. In essence, I was hoping there might be a wire out there that is , all things considered, a good bang for the buck. Of course, I want to hook up my new receiver and take it for a test drive. However, as money is tight right now, I had hoped to send .50 a foot or so. Thanks for your help!

    Greg
    AVR: Yamaha RX-V661
    DVD: Yamaha DV-C6480
    BR: Samsung 1600
    Mains: Polk RT55 (bi-amped)
    Center: CS300
    Sides: FX1000
    Rears: RT/FX
    Subs: SVS 20-39 PC+ 12.3 & DIY SVS 12.2
    Projector: Optoma HD70 w/ 106" Elite Screen
    Power: Panamax MAX 5100
    Remote: Harmony One
  • gacole2000
    gacole2000 Posts: 255
    edited January 2003
    bare, most likely. I have had these A-100 since new stored since 92 in their original boxes- mint. They have been put back into service after a robbery took my beloved Def. Tech. BP10's and Yamaha system.

    Further, that should be spend, not send.

    Greg
    AVR: Yamaha RX-V661
    DVD: Yamaha DV-C6480
    BR: Samsung 1600
    Mains: Polk RT55 (bi-amped)
    Center: CS300
    Sides: FX1000
    Rears: RT/FX
    Subs: SVS 20-39 PC+ 12.3 & DIY SVS 12.2
    Projector: Optoma HD70 w/ 106" Elite Screen
    Power: Panamax MAX 5100
    Remote: Harmony One
  • gacole2000
    gacole2000 Posts: 255
    edited January 2003
    Time for dinner, I'll check back later.

    Thanks again- Greg
    AVR: Yamaha RX-V661
    DVD: Yamaha DV-C6480
    BR: Samsung 1600
    Mains: Polk RT55 (bi-amped)
    Center: CS300
    Sides: FX1000
    Rears: RT/FX
    Subs: SVS 20-39 PC+ 12.3 & DIY SVS 12.2
    Projector: Optoma HD70 w/ 106" Elite Screen
    Power: Panamax MAX 5100
    Remote: Harmony One
  • STUFFMD
    STUFFMD Posts: 381
    edited January 2003
    Hey Gacole2000,
    Seeing how the guys are sending more questions than help, I'll put in my 2 cents....Monster XP is in my opinion a good starter wire...They sell it in 50-100ft rolls at Best Buys, about $50 for the 50 ft. roll...I am currently using it on my Polks all around and I found a substantial difference in Hf and Lf and have recommended it to several friends who have had very good experiences with the product. Would highly recommend...
    Good Luck StuffMD
    Your system is only as good as your weakest component...!

    OnkyoTX-DS 797
    NAD C270/ Mains
    Mains: LSI9's
    Center: Cs400i /Biwired
    Rear: Fx300i
    Rear Center:CS 245i
    Dvd: Onkyo DVS 555
    Vision RCA 36" Premiere Series
    Bang & Olfsen RX Turntable
    Psw 350 Front/Psw 202 rear
    Kimber Cable 4TC Mains HF
    Monster Originals/Center
    Kimber Interconnects
    Monster XP Everywhere else
    PS2/Gamecube
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,987
    edited January 2003
    Stuff, not knocking your opinion, but have you tried 16/2 lamp against XP? It's good wire (xp), I recently used it on one of my friends installs (Yamaha rec/Modurant Short speaks).

    There is no difference, as far as my ears can tell, with standard lamp cord.

    You won't go wrong with Monster XP, but I suggest you buy 20ft (or whatever would reach your mains) of each, monster and lamp cord , and compare them side by side (2ch music only).

    Another couple to throw in the mix:

    First is IXOS, check out AC4L.com, the gamma 15awg is on sale for $.49 a foot. Killer wire, worth a listen.

    Additionally, check out Audioadvisor.com for AR Pro series and Tributaries bulk wire - $.35-$.49 /ft. Partsexpress.com has Carol Command at reasonable prices also.

    Unless you want to jump to $1.50-$2.00/ft, where you can tap into Audioquest etc, I really suggest entry IXOS or standard lamp, or a combination of both.

    Cheers,
    Rooster
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • gacole2000
    gacole2000 Posts: 255
    edited January 2003
    Further, should I use the same wire for all speakers (main vs. surrounds)? Also, 14 or 16 gage?

    I say this on e-bay?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=14966&item=3003137053

    Thoughts?

    Greg
    AVR: Yamaha RX-V661
    DVD: Yamaha DV-C6480
    BR: Samsung 1600
    Mains: Polk RT55 (bi-amped)
    Center: CS300
    Sides: FX1000
    Rears: RT/FX
    Subs: SVS 20-39 PC+ 12.3 & DIY SVS 12.2
    Projector: Optoma HD70 w/ 106" Elite Screen
    Power: Panamax MAX 5100
    Remote: Harmony One
  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited January 2003
    Rooster,I recently checked with our local Electrical Supplier about lampcord,all they had in stock, or could order in was 18/2. They could come up with a 14/2-16/2 all cooper,teflon shielded wire that was simply called "Sound&Security". I can pick this up for 11c-14c per ft....I also have some long runs to my rear center,45' and 35' for my left&right surrounds.What do you think? Regardless of which wire I end up with,what awg would be the best for the long runs? I have a Kenwood VR-6070 with FXi30's and a CS245i for the rear ctr.
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,987
    edited January 2003
    Lots of wire opinions, this is mine, take it at face value. 16/2 is the highest (smallest) guage I would use, period. 16/2 should be more than fine on runs up to 50ft (approx). More than that, I would go 14/2 all the way up to 100ft.

    Not saying you can't run 12/2 on a 50ft run, but electrically speaking, it is not needed.

    Cheers,
    Rooster

    *I'll be happy to mail you 'my' 16/2 lamp cord at cost, if need be.*
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,200
    edited January 2003
    OK,
    I'll add my opnion on what is good starter wire.......whatever thats really means.
    By looking over your system,Monstercable XP is nice.They also sell Custom wire which would work well and not cost an arm and a leg.14 guage I would use all the way around.I feel wire is as important as anything else you buy in your system.Over the years I have tried alot of different kinds of wire including Home Depot and Lamp cord.Those types of wires I would never use on any system.Monster XP is my bottom of the line thinking.Another company that sounds pretty good for dollar value is Liberty.They make nice wire for cheap.I'd look around and try out some wire before you run out and spend anything.The entire world of wire is waiting.Monster is a fail safe product.I believe in them.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • gacole2000
    gacole2000 Posts: 255
    edited January 2003
    Thank you-

    I am leaning towards that IXOS on sale www.ac4l.com for .49. Also, there is a lot on Monster on e-bay. Any experience with the IXOS?

    :-) Greg
    AVR: Yamaha RX-V661
    DVD: Yamaha DV-C6480
    BR: Samsung 1600
    Mains: Polk RT55 (bi-amped)
    Center: CS300
    Sides: FX1000
    Rears: RT/FX
    Subs: SVS 20-39 PC+ 12.3 & DIY SVS 12.2
    Projector: Optoma HD70 w/ 106" Elite Screen
    Power: Panamax MAX 5100
    Remote: Harmony One
  • dbournival
    dbournival Posts: 131
    edited January 2003
    My system 1 uses Monster in wall 14/2 and 14/4, my system 2 used Carol (from HD) 12-2 inwall (grey jacket) except for the Center that is Bi-wired with 14-2/16-2 HD Clear jacket. I really can't say if the Monster is any better, I did not buy it twice...
  • goingganzo
    goingganzo Posts: 2,793
    edited January 2003
    i would recomend ar cabbles they have good cabbles at a good price. also they have ends that uses compreshon fittings. work great and you winn not pull them off like the twist on ones.
  • pjdami
    pjdami Posts: 1,894
    edited February 2003
    I use Monster XP 14 gauge. Highly recommend it! Don't go with the 16 gauge though.
  • Dr. Spec
    Dr. Spec Posts: 3,780
    edited February 2003
    Originally posted by RuSsMaN
    16/2 lamp cord. Not Home Depot/Lowes 'speaker wire', actual lamp cord. I prefer the black casing. $.16/ft or so. I dare you to hear a difference between it and Monster XP.

    If thats too cheap, we can kick it up a notch, say the word.

    Cheers,
    Rooster

    Russ - is the 14 or 12 gauge Home Depot / Lowes wire (Woody brand, I think) actually bad in your experience, or is it simply not any better than 16/2 lamp cord?

    I think 16 gauge is a little light for any full range application. I'd go 14 at a minimum.

    I have cut the Woody stuff open and it is fully encased on both leads with no oxidation (visible at least). The copper appears to be decent grade, with no discoloration or visible impurities. And it's fully marked for polarity all the way.
    "What we do in life echoes in eternity"

    Ed Mullen (emullen@svsound.com)
    Director - Technology and Customer Service
    SVS
  • MxStYlEpOlKmAn
    MxStYlEpOlKmAn Posts: 2,116
    edited February 2003
    I use HD - Im not no audio expert, but Its audible in all sense of sound.
    Damn you all, damn you all to hell.......
    I promised myself
    No more speakers. None. Nada. And then you posted this!!!!
    Damn you all! - ATC
  • polkatese
    polkatese Posts: 6,767
    edited February 2003
    Sean,
    those extra inch of details in upgrading speaker cables make a compelling argument to stick with what you have, right?? For me, I stop at Frank's cables, unless I am ready to upgrade my speakers to Sonus Faber or something along those line, and Krell, and separate DAC transports and.....you get the picture
    I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie.
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,987
    edited February 2003
    Doc, I have not had bad experiences with HD/Lowes wire, but standard lamp comes in a bit cheaper, has a more flexible casing.

    As far as entry level cable, it can't be touched (imo). 16awg lamp cord may seem a little 'thin' to some folks, but it has been (for years) and is still what most speaker manufacturers recommend (some as a 'minimum', some not).

    Cheers,
    Russ
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • misolic
    misolic Posts: 1
    edited February 2003
    Please. see the following link:
    http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/triple_t_e.html

    and let me know what you think about!
    It looks pretty good to me!
  • STUFFMD
    STUFFMD Posts: 381
    edited February 2003
    Hey Misolic,
    I've seen this done before, very similar to Kimber Cable, 3 things missing from the homemades as far as I can tell, A.) I'm no expert, I have never seen Hyperpure copper in Cat9...maybe it exists but I couldn't see a Cat9 cable co. using that high a grade of copper B.)Kimber uses varying thicknesses of wire in their braid, they call it Veristrand which in itself would be easy enough I would to do C.) Kimber has I think it's 7 wires in their 4tc, the manufacturer claims that the way they braid it, or counter braid it cuts down on electrical fields as well as other distortions as well as the Teflon coating on the Kimbers.....I would bet though that you would get a very good result with the homemades. At a substantial savings.
    Stuff
    Your system is only as good as your weakest component...!

    OnkyoTX-DS 797
    NAD C270/ Mains
    Mains: LSI9's
    Center: Cs400i /Biwired
    Rear: Fx300i
    Rear Center:CS 245i
    Dvd: Onkyo DVS 555
    Vision RCA 36" Premiere Series
    Bang & Olfsen RX Turntable
    Psw 350 Front/Psw 202 rear
    Kimber Cable 4TC Mains HF
    Monster Originals/Center
    Kimber Interconnects
    Monster XP Everywhere else
    PS2/Gamecube
  • gidrah
    gidrah Posts: 3,049
    edited February 2003
    Welcome gentlemen!

    I'm in the process of doing the TNT-TTT. I've got one side braided up awaiting stripping and termination; which is the headache part. I can't wait. Well obviously I can wait or I wouldn't be drinking a beer and checking out this thread. I'm using CAT5e. I don't know if It'd make a sonic difference over the 5, but I got it for X-mas. You can get 166.66(7)' out of a spool. I've never heard of anything newer than CAT6.

    I'd probably settle for less on the rears. Less money and braiding.

    IME: I've found lamp chord to be stiffer and more brittle than "speaker" wire of the same size, but it sounds better to me.

    IMO: I think that if Mike or anybody can get Teflon 14# @ .14$/ft, he should buy as much as possible. I'm all about the dielectric. The better insulation you have between +&- the better. Sure OFC is a great standard, but if your sheeting is plastic/PVC you're more likely to lose signal. Even at double the price you could run one length (both sides) to your + and one to your -. Twist them together with a drill, tape at the ends and BAM!
    Make it Funky! :)