Why not MOMO?
seeclear
Posts: 1,242
Thinking about a sonosub build, I am thinking a 15" driver in a 24" tube, and I see lots of recommendations for drivers-soundsplinter, etc. Why couldn't (or wouldn't) you use a MOMO like this?-->
MOMO 2154
Electrical
Overall Frequency Response 18Hz-150Hz
Nominal Impedance 4 ohms
Minimum Impedance 3.5 ohms
Power Handling (continuous) 400 w
Power Handling (peak) 800 w
Efficiency 90 dB
Voice Coil Diameter: Driver 2" (5.08cm)
Magnet Weight 63.40 oz.
Driver Mounting Depth
Top Mount 7-3/8" (18.73cm)
Bottom Mount 7-15/16" (20.16cm)
Cut-out
Driver Cut-out Diameter 13-7/8" (35.24cm)
Thiele/Small Parameters
Recommended Enclosure Sealed / Ported / Bandpass
Resonant Frequency 24 Hz
Qms 10.21
Qes .49
Qts .47
Vas 6.595 cu.ft/186.75 L
Bl 15.8 Tesla Meters
Sd 126.22 sq.in. / 814.3 sq.cm.
Xmax (linear) .37 in. / 9.5 mm
Xmax (mechanical) .79 in. / 20 mm
Le 3.01 mH
Other
Product Weight 22.50 lbs.
Not enough xmax? Resonant frequency too high? What other parameters are most important in looking for a driver for a ported sonosub design? For $90, the MOMO looks like a bargain, but I don't want to be penny wise and pound foolish. Thanks in advance for your input.
MOMO 2154
Electrical
Overall Frequency Response 18Hz-150Hz
Nominal Impedance 4 ohms
Minimum Impedance 3.5 ohms
Power Handling (continuous) 400 w
Power Handling (peak) 800 w
Efficiency 90 dB
Voice Coil Diameter: Driver 2" (5.08cm)
Magnet Weight 63.40 oz.
Driver Mounting Depth
Top Mount 7-3/8" (18.73cm)
Bottom Mount 7-15/16" (20.16cm)
Cut-out
Driver Cut-out Diameter 13-7/8" (35.24cm)
Thiele/Small Parameters
Recommended Enclosure Sealed / Ported / Bandpass
Resonant Frequency 24 Hz
Qms 10.21
Qes .49
Qts .47
Vas 6.595 cu.ft/186.75 L
Bl 15.8 Tesla Meters
Sd 126.22 sq.in. / 814.3 sq.cm.
Xmax (linear) .37 in. / 9.5 mm
Xmax (mechanical) .79 in. / 20 mm
Le 3.01 mH
Other
Product Weight 22.50 lbs.
Not enough xmax? Resonant frequency too high? What other parameters are most important in looking for a driver for a ported sonosub design? For $90, the MOMO looks like a bargain, but I don't want to be penny wise and pound foolish. Thanks in advance for your input.
"Don't forget to change your politician. They are like diapers they need to be changed regularly, and for the same reason."
Post edited by seeclear on
Comments
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I'd use it.
Usually a car sub has a higher resonance since the car boosts the low end a lot. This sub is excellent at 24 Hz.
Sometimes the VAS(stiffness compared to surface area) is very low meaning the box will be tiny and raise the resonance more than what is acceptable, but yours is an exception. A combination of Vas and Qts will hint to the box size and cutoff frequency.
The last thing is that few people go for accurate reproduction in a car, so the design of the sub is often compromised to match the buyer's goals(thump, thump, thump). -
Interesting!
Thinking about using a 15" MOMO in a small sealed enclosure for my H/T.
Dayton has a sweet amp that would provide the power.
Crutchfield has "Buy 1 Get 1 Free" now...
I could give the free sub to a polkie for dirt cheap.
Build my own box to fit behind my couch (I have a small living room).
What do you guys think? I love the idea of not having an amp in my sub box. That way if the amp is in my audio rack, you can always be flexible and change subs later.;) -
I'm running 3 10" Alpine type 4 10's in a 24" sonotube tuned at 25Hz, all I can say is it sounds absolutely amazing!!
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It would be a lot better in the car audio forum.Main system: Lyngdorf TDAI 2170 w/ Pioneer 42" plazma-> Polk LSiM 703 w/Tivo, Marantz tuner, BRPTT: Nothingham Spacedeck-> Pioneer PL L1000 linear arm-> Soundsmith DL 103R-> SUT->Bottlehead ErosDigital: I3 PC w/ Jriver playing flac -> Sonore Ultrarendu -> Twisted Pair Audio ESS 9028 w/ Mercury IVY Vinyl rips: ESI Juli@24/192-> i3 PC server
