What makes a subwoofer good

specd_out
specd_out Posts: 505
This is not the typical what sub is better but more of what makes a sub better than another. I searched but cant really find anything that answers all my questions. I am curently looking at a dsw pro 500 and tring to stay below 4-500. so what things should i be looking for in this price range
HT Rig Samsung 64F8500 |Pioneer Elite BDP-52FD|Pioneer Elite VSX-32| Two Carver TFM-15cb Bridged for mains|Polk Audio RTiA5 Cherry|Polk Audio CsiA6 Cherry|Polk Audio T-15 Heights|Polk Audio FXia6 Surround|DIY 8cuft Dayton Ultimax 15" powered with a Crown XLS1000
2Channel Rig Polk Audio LSi9 Cherry| Carver C-1BillD Mod|Carver M1.0t MkII Opt2|Pro-ject RM 1.3|SpeedBox S|AQ King Cobras|AQ Rocket88|
ISF Level 2 Certified Calibrator
Post edited by specd_out on
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Comments

  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited December 2008
    Are you going to use it for music or HT?
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited December 2008
    For home theater uses, it comes down to 3 things.

    1) The ability to dig deep. (25hz or lower preferably - can be hard in that price range)
    2) The ability to move alot of air. (big woofers (in diameter) with lots of x-max (or some combination there of))
    3) The ability to start and stop quickly. (quality woofers with good amps behind them.)

    That is about it. Different designs and approaches accent some abilities over others, but those are the 3 you are really looking for.

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 5,191
    edited December 2008
    leroyjr1 wrote: »
    Are you going to use it for music or HT?
    I think that's the biggest question that needs to be asked. The C.W. is that for a musical priority, you must go with a sealed subwoofer. For Home Theater, a vented/ported subwoofer will probably be better. If you stick with a HT priority, you may find it sounds boomy for music, especially classical/vocals etc. ...
    Alea jacta est!
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited December 2008
    Kex wrote: »
    I think that's the biggest question that needs to be asked. The C.W. is that for a musical priority, you must go with a sealed subwoofer. For Home Theater, a vented/ported subwoofer will probably be better. If you stick with a HT priority, you may find it sounds boomy for music, especially classical/vocals etc. ...

    I disagree (in general - you may be correct for his price range). There are quality musical subs that are ported (SVS PB-13 Ultra, many HSU subs and the Polk MicroPro series) and sealed subs that are very good for home theater (basically any infinite baffle sub is a very large sealed design).

    It all comes down to how well it is executed....
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited December 2008
    I've always been under the impression that when deciding between ported/non-ported it really depended on what kind of music you listen to.

    Depending on the type of music you listen to, and what kind of bass you listen to, couldn't a ported sub be better for it, because of the boominess? Many kinds of hard rock and metal, as well as most rap and a lot dance music put a lot of emphasis on really "in your face" bass, that has a really boomy sound. Where as classical, jazz, country, and most other kinds of rock with a tighter more focused bass style would be better through a sealed sub.

    Am I right in thinking this, or is that way off? I've been researching subs a lot lately...and I have no idea what I want to get yet, my mind has changed about 10 times in the last few days. Hopefully this thread will help me decide as well...
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited December 2008
    I tend to look at the ancenstry of the parents and do public domain criminal background checks on their kinfolk.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 5,191
    edited December 2008
    I've always been under the impression that when deciding between ported/non-ported it really depended on what kind of music you listen to.

    Depending on the type of music you listen to, and what kind of bass you listen to, couldn't a ported sub be better for it, because of the boominess? Many kinds of hard rock and metal, as well as most rap and a lot dance music put a lot of emphasis on really "in your face" bass, that has a really boomy sound. Where as classical, jazz, country, and most other kinds of rock with a tighter more focused bass style would be better through a sealed sub.

    Am I right in thinking this, or is that way off? I've been researching subs a lot lately...and I have no idea what I want to get yet, my mind has changed about 10 times in the last few days. Hopefully this thread will help me decide as well...
    My instinct would be to say that you are right. But even with techy type music (Hotel Costes), I did not like the boominess of the ported design I was using (good quality entry level H100, so not comparable to SVS, eD or HSU etc. ...). I'm still fiddling with my new sealed sub to get it right, but initial impressions are that it diminishes some of the HT "shock and awe", and improves musical bass. The biggest improvement I got for musical bass, by far (quantity, quality, and precision), was adding a NAD receiver, compared to both a h/k receiver and an Emotiva separates combination (LMC-1 & LPA-1).
    Alea jacta est!
  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 5,191
    edited December 2008
    dorokusai wrote: »
    I tend to look at the ancenstry of the parents and do public domain criminal background checks on their kinfolk.
    Interesting perspective ...
    Alea jacta est!
  • specd_out
    specd_out Posts: 505
    edited December 2008
    priority is music I listen to a vast array of music from classical to jazz to alternive rock and classic rock. Just dont care for country and rap.
    For music the psw10 isnt all bad but i know theres room for improvement. where it really lets me down is in movies anything with some really good lfe sound and the sub just dies.I really want something that hits really hard but also remains accurate. Right now I have a psw10 now i know its not a great sub, but the problem i have is its not loud enough and it just sounds really messy with the vol up. I guess some key words for me in order of importance accurate, deep, loud.
    HT Rig Samsung 64F8500 |Pioneer Elite BDP-52FD|Pioneer Elite VSX-32| Two Carver TFM-15cb Bridged for mains|Polk Audio RTiA5 Cherry|Polk Audio CsiA6 Cherry|Polk Audio T-15 Heights|Polk Audio FXia6 Surround|DIY 8cuft Dayton Ultimax 15" powered with a Crown XLS1000
    2Channel Rig Polk Audio LSi9 Cherry| Carver C-1BillD Mod|Carver M1.0t MkII Opt2|Pro-ject RM 1.3|SpeedBox S|AQ King Cobras|AQ Rocket88|
    ISF Level 2 Certified Calibrator
  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited December 2008
    specd_out wrote: »
    priority is music I listen to a vast array of music from classical to jazz to alternive rock and classic rock. Just dont care for country and rap.
    For music the psw10 isnt all bad but i know theres room for improvement. where it really lets me down is in movies anything with some really good lfe sound and the sub just dies.I really want something that hits really hard but also remains accurate. Right now I have a psw10 now i know its not a great sub, but the problem i have is its not loud enough and it just sounds really messy with the vol up. I guess some key words for me in order of importance accurate, deep, loud.

    The psw10 is Polk's entry level sub. Anything you get will be an improvement IMO.
  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited December 2008
    leroyjr1 wrote: »
    The psw10 is Polk's entry level sub. Anything you get will be an improvement IMO.

    It'd probably be pretty hard to find a cheaper sub than the PSW10 though too...about 100 bucks shipped from Polk Direct. It's one of those "get what ya pay for" deals though. It's half decent for a hundred bucks though. I'd rather buy something better myself.
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • Hilbert
    Hilbert Posts: 316
    edited December 2008
    Audio Advisor is still selling Velodyne SPL-800R for $499.99. Free shipping, no tax if outside Michigan. Just sayin'.

    http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=VESP800R
  • Chameleon2
    Chameleon2 Posts: 112
    edited December 2008
    Hilbert wrote: »
    Audio Advisor is still selling Velodyne SPL-800R for $499.99. Free shipping, no tax if outside Michigan. Just sayin'.

    http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=VESP800R


    How would the DSW MicroPRO 1000 compare with the SPL-800R?
  • pearsall001
    pearsall001 Posts: 5,068
    edited December 2008
    Kex wrote: »
    I think that's the biggest question that needs to be asked. The C.W. is that for a musical priority, you must go with a sealed subwoofer. For Home Theater, a vented/ported subwoofer will probably be better. If you stick with a HT priority, you may find it sounds boomy for music, especially classical/vocals etc. ...

    My findings exactly. Whereas the SVS 25-31Plus (ported design) was great for HT, no matter what I tried it just wouldn't cooperate in playing nice for my 2 channel system. Now moving up to the Velo SPL-1200R (sealed design) it too is great for HT & excels in my 2 channel system. A world of difference between the two of them.

    I'm sure there are great ported designs that perform equally as well in HT & 2 channel, but my experience lends me to go with the sealed design.
    "2 Channel & 11.2 HT "Two Channel:Magnepan LRSSchiit Audio Freya S - SS preConsonance Ref 50 - Tube preParasound HALO A21+ 2 channel ampBluesound NODE 2i streameriFi NEO iDSD DAC Oppo BDP-93KEF KC62 sub Home Theater:Full blown 11.2 set up.
  • specd_out
    specd_out Posts: 505
    edited December 2008
    what does the wattage have to do with how a subwoofer performs. I have seen some, DSW pro 500 that has 200 watts and then the SPL 800-r has 1000 2000 rating both in th esame price range. why such a difference in wattage
    HT Rig Samsung 64F8500 |Pioneer Elite BDP-52FD|Pioneer Elite VSX-32| Two Carver TFM-15cb Bridged for mains|Polk Audio RTiA5 Cherry|Polk Audio CsiA6 Cherry|Polk Audio T-15 Heights|Polk Audio FXia6 Surround|DIY 8cuft Dayton Ultimax 15" powered with a Crown XLS1000
    2Channel Rig Polk Audio LSi9 Cherry| Carver C-1BillD Mod|Carver M1.0t MkII Opt2|Pro-ject RM 1.3|SpeedBox S|AQ King Cobras|AQ Rocket88|
    ISF Level 2 Certified Calibrator
  • Greg Kester
    Greg Kester Posts: 2
    edited December 2008
    cnet.com
    where you will get definitely good quality of information regarding this issue.
  • apphd
    apphd Posts: 1,514
    edited December 2008
    Generally speaking sealed subs take a lot more power to get low with usable spl especially in small volume size cabinets. The SPL 800-r is a sealed sub, the DSW pro 500 is ported, if you jump up to the DSW 1000 micro-pro it is sealed and has a 1200w amp. There are ported subs that do music as well as HT and there are sealed subs that do HT as well as music, but with these it comes with a good price tag. In the $400 -$500 range you will probably need to compromise on one end or the other. There are a lot of good to very good choices in this price point, but none that really shine at either.

    You probably have gotten the most out of the PSW 10 you are going to get, but location, and room charactoristics/treatments play a huge part in bass/sub performance, so as with any sub you might be able to get a little more out of it with playing around with those. Of course YMMV
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited December 2008
    specd_out wrote: »
    This is not the typical what sub is better but more of what makes a sub better than another.

    There's only one answer -- how does the sub sound?

    Remember -- a subwoofer is a speaker, so just as you would judge the quality of a pair of fronts by the sound, you judge a sub in the same manner.

    More specifically, you have to study a little bit about build quality. Subs are simple -- typically there's only an amp, a driver, and a cabinet. IMO, the amp is the most important factor. The vast majority of plate amps out there are pathetic performers.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 5,191
    edited December 2008
    Early B. wrote: »
    ... Subs are simple -- typically there's only an amp, a driver, and a cabinet. IMO, the amp is the most important factor. The vast majority of plate amps out there are pathetic performers.
    Was the amp the weak link in the older generation Polk subs, that didn't get much respect?
    Alea jacta est!
  • speakergeek
    speakergeek Posts: 555
    edited December 2008
    Simple. The more it shakes your house, the better the sub is....:D
  • kolyan2k
    kolyan2k Posts: 259
    edited December 2008
    specd_out wrote: »
    This is not the typical what sub is better but more of what makes a sub better than another. I searched but cant really find anything that answers all my questions. I am curently looking at a dsw pro 500 and tring to stay below 4-500. so what things should i be looking for in this price range

    I like my Martin Logan Dynamo subs :)

    I have not heard other subs except for ML Depth and I still think that Dynamo are really nice and they are small too
  • SlowcarIX
    SlowcarIX Posts: 887
    edited December 2008
    Simple. The more it shakes your house, the better the sub is....:D

    :eek:

    lol
    my 7.(1x4) HT setup
    TV - Mitsubishi WD-65734
    AVP / Amp - Onkyo PR-SC885P / D-Sonic 2500-7
    Front - Emerald Physics CS2
    Center - JTR Triple 12LF
    Surround L/R / Back - Polk RTi4 / Polk FXi A4
    Sub - 4 X Hsu ULS15 playing nearfield
    DVD / CDP - Sony PS3/40GB / Sony SCD-XA9000ES
    Belkin PURE AV PF60 / UPS
    Buttkicker

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60612
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited December 2008
    specd_out wrote: »
    what does the wattage have to do with how a subwoofer performs. I have seen some, DSW pro 500 that has 200 watts and then the SPL 800-r has 1000 2000 rating both in th esame price range. why such a difference in wattage

    The size of amp needed to power a sub depends on the subs enclosure size. Big subs (especially ported) do not require near as much power.

    Smaller subs are often boosted (via an EQ) in the lower frequency ranges to make up for their smaller enclosure sizes. Since increasing a frequency 6db-12db takes a TON of power - the smaller subs often have 1,000 watt amps or more. Since they are trying to overcome the physics required to make deep bass, they run their amps hard and often have passive radiators rather than ports (since there is not room to put a big port in such a small box - it also eliminates any chance of port noise).

    Long story short - wattage don't mean a thing as far as how well or not a sub will perform. It is certainly a part of the puzzle, but just amp size is not enough information to determine if a sub is worth a darn or not.
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • curved
    curved Posts: 664
    edited December 2008
    How big is your room?
    Living Room:....................[HTML] [/HTML] Zone 2 (Workout Room):
    AVR - Yamaha RX-V757......JBL 4312 Pro Monitors
    Pre - Nak CA-5
    AMP - Adcom 555 (Main)
    Main - Polk RTI8**/RTiA5
    AMP - Adcom 545II (Center)
    Center - Polk CSiA4**
    Sub - Snell Basis 300:p......Zone 3 (Outside)
    CD - Yamaha CDC-555.......Def Tech AW5500
    TV - Pani TH-42PZ80U
    BR - LG BD390
    Monster HTS1600 Power Center
    Dedicated Circuit - (2) 20amp, (1) 15amp
    Ben's IC, Canare 4S11

    **Dayton and Sonicap Caps with Mills Resistors**
  • specd_out
    specd_out Posts: 505
    edited December 2008
    McLoki wrote: »
    The size of amp needed to power a sub depends on the subs enclosure size. Big subs (especially ported) do not require near as much power.

    Smaller subs are often boosted (via an EQ) in the lower frequency ranges to make up for their smaller enclosure sizes. Since increasing a frequency 6db-12db takes a TON of power - the smaller subs often have 1,000 watt amps or more. Since they are trying to overcome the physics required to make deep bass, they run their amps hard and often have passive radiators rather than ports (since there is not room to put a big port in such a small box - it also eliminates any chance of port noise).

    Long story short - wattage don't mean a thing as far as how well or not a sub will perform. It is certainly a part of the puzzle, but just amp size is not enough information to determine if a sub is worth a darn or not.


    Thanks that clears alot up on the wattage question i had.

    as far as room size its large its a living room with a dining room. that opens to a small hall way and a kitchen. only three real walls the rest is open.
    HT Rig Samsung 64F8500 |Pioneer Elite BDP-52FD|Pioneer Elite VSX-32| Two Carver TFM-15cb Bridged for mains|Polk Audio RTiA5 Cherry|Polk Audio CsiA6 Cherry|Polk Audio T-15 Heights|Polk Audio FXia6 Surround|DIY 8cuft Dayton Ultimax 15" powered with a Crown XLS1000
    2Channel Rig Polk Audio LSi9 Cherry| Carver C-1BillD Mod|Carver M1.0t MkII Opt2|Pro-ject RM 1.3|SpeedBox S|AQ King Cobras|AQ Rocket88|
    ISF Level 2 Certified Calibrator
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited December 2008
    specd_out wrote: »
    as far as room size its large its a living room with a dining room. that opens to a small hall way and a kitchen. only three real walls the rest is open.

    Can you measure this area and let us know?

    You'll probably need a very large sub (or two of them) to pressurize this space. Don't consider anything smaller than a 15" sub. In your price range, you may want to consider DIY.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited December 2008
    If going DIY - I would consider 15's as well. Considering your budget, DIY would be the best way to get the bass you want.
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • Motzart
    Motzart Posts: 1,075
    edited December 2008
    Well when it came time for me to upgrade my sub I considered these factors....

    Most important:

    1 - What did I deem the best for my budget
    2 - History of the company
    3 - Can it dig deep and not be muddy
    4 - Something that could handle HT and Music
    5 - Size for my space

    Subs are like Camera's IMHO
    As a Photographer I'm not real hip on a Camera made by a company who specializes in more than just Camera's.
    Ex: Sony...Panasonic...Casio...ect

    These mentioned above might be good Camera's to the common joe who just wants to take a photo.
    But a real Photographer who wants true quality will go with the mentioned below.

    A dedicated Camera company who KNOWS and had made nothing but Camera's for years is gonna give you a true quality Camera.
    Ex: Canon...Nikon...Minolta...ect

    IMHO many companies that make more than subs (Yamaha for example) should just stick to the electronics end of things.
    Many of the receiver companies make speakers and subs but they are geared to the casual listener and not the audiophile.

    This is just a personal view and many might not agree.


    .

    Yamaha RX-A710 90Watt 7.1
    Mains: RTi A1's Center: CS150 Sats: RT15i's Sub: Velodyne DPS-10
    Music CD: Sony CDP-CE375 5 Disk
    HD TV: Vizio 42" LCD 1080p E420VO
    Blu-Ray: Sony BDP-S350
    DVD: Sony DVP-NC665P 5 Disk
    AV Rack: Sanus Euro EFAB-II Audio Base x2 EFAS-II Audio Expansion Shelf x4
    Cables Used: Monster Cable HPD Sony HDMI DLCHE18W
    Phones: Sennheiser HD280 Pro
  • specd_out
    specd_out Posts: 505
    edited December 2008
    well I have narrowed down my choices to three
    PSW1000 -350-400
    DSW Pro 500 300
    Micro1000 400 free shiping

    According to the specs the PSW1000 is a better sub but i was just wanting to know other peoples opinon
    HT Rig Samsung 64F8500 |Pioneer Elite BDP-52FD|Pioneer Elite VSX-32| Two Carver TFM-15cb Bridged for mains|Polk Audio RTiA5 Cherry|Polk Audio CsiA6 Cherry|Polk Audio T-15 Heights|Polk Audio FXia6 Surround|DIY 8cuft Dayton Ultimax 15" powered with a Crown XLS1000
    2Channel Rig Polk Audio LSi9 Cherry| Carver C-1BillD Mod|Carver M1.0t MkII Opt2|Pro-ject RM 1.3|SpeedBox S|AQ King Cobras|AQ Rocket88|
    ISF Level 2 Certified Calibrator
  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,788
    edited December 2008
    Specs suck. Let your ears tell the truth.