Not getting highs on Lsi 25

Captive
Captive Posts: 18
edited August 2008 in Troubleshooting
I have tried troubling shooting everything from the cables to the speaker wire and the receiver and amp, with the same result.

I get what sounds like muted highs on the right side Lsi 25, there is no hissing, crackling or buzzing coming from the speaker. I dont know what the problem is, maybe a bad connection inside the speaker?
Post edited by Captive on

Comments

  • Fatwalnut
    Fatwalnut Posts: 54
    edited August 2008
    How long have you had the speakers?
    How loud were you playing the speakers?
    If you were cranking the speakers, you won't be considered under warranty do to abuse.
    Try swapping the tweeters from one speaker cabinet to the other.
    If all else fails call Polk customer service.
  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited August 2008
    Maybe your right ear needs to be replaced.

    j/k.

    Are you able to disconnect one lead from each tweeter and measure their DC resistance? Is the soft tweeter showing a lower resistance?

    Likewise, are you able to unscrew the woofers and disconnect them so that the tweeters are more clearly heard?
  • Captive
    Captive Posts: 18
    edited August 2008
    Fatwalnut wrote: »
    How long have you had the speakers?
    Since January.
    How loud were you playing the speakers?
    I play them loud but not deafening or anything.
    If you were cranking the speakers, you won't be considered under warranty do to abuse.
    That doesnt make much sense, if the speakers are designed for lots of power, whats the point of having them if you cant turn them up? Im not talking about so loud you cant stand in the room, I've never done that.
    Try swapping the tweeters from one speaker cabinet to the other.
    If all else fails call Polk customer service.
    Will do.
    Are you able to disconnect one lead from each tweeter and measure their DC resistance? Is the soft tweeter showing a lower resistance?

    Likewise, are you able to unscrew the woofers and disconnect them so that the tweeters are more clearly heard?
    Yes and yes, ill have to borrow my dads tool for that.

    To be honest I have no idea if it even came like this or not. You can barely tell unless you single out the speaker or the music solos on that channel.
    For the first couple of months they sat in my closet. It wasnt until I recently moved into my house that I have really had them hooked up and using them.

    Thanks for the responses guys, I'll give those a shot and see what happens.
  • fireshoes
    fireshoes Posts: 3,167
    edited August 2008
    Are the jumpers firmly seated between the binding posts on that speaker? If the connection is loose and your wires are connected to the bottom set of posts, the high frequencies might not play.
  • Captive
    Captive Posts: 18
    edited August 2008
    fireshoes wrote: »
    Are the jumpers firmly seated between the binding posts on that speaker? If the connection is loose and your wires are connected to the bottom set of posts, the high frequencies might not play.

    Yea I had checked that to make sure, it was fine.

    I switched the tweeters and they sound the same, the entire left speaker sounds great the entire right sounds muted like too much midrange, its weird and hard to explain.
  • Captive
    Captive Posts: 18
    edited August 2008
    Well I'm stuck now, I have traded out each driver with the same result, each one sounds great in the left speaker but not in the right speaker.
  • LessisNevermore
    LessisNevermore Posts: 1,519
    edited August 2008
    Maybe a bad solder joint, or bad component in the crossover?
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited August 2008
    Captive wrote: »
    That doesnt make much sense, if the speakers are designed for lots of power, whats the point of having them if you cant turn them up? Im not talking about so loud you cant stand in the room, I've never done that.

    Dude less power kills tweeters. What are you driving them with?
    By what you are saying it sounds like you may have fried a resitor. I have a set of LSI15 XO's here that a fellow polkie cooked.

    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • Captive
    Captive Posts: 18
    edited August 2008
    I should have enough power, I'm using an Adcom GFA 555
  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited August 2008
    Sounds like the right tweeter's crossover. Maybe a leaky cap or burned resistor.
  • Captive
    Captive Posts: 18
    edited August 2008
    ShinAce wrote: »
    Sounds like the right tweeter's crossover. Maybe a leaky cap or burned resistor.

    How would i go about checking those? I believe the crossover is right behind the tweeter on the back of the cabinet.

    Also, Ben as i said ealier in the thread i switched out the tweeters and the other drivers with all the same results.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2008
    I'm not familiar with the LSi 25, but on the LSi 15, it's on the other side of the binding post cup. Look for something burnt or disconnected.
    There's a picture of a LSiC crossover in the last post of this thread: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70717&highlight=dayton
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited August 2008
    I checked Doro's schematic thread for the Lsi25, but the closest there is Lsi15. I'm not familiar with these models.

    Anywho, if you follow the two leads from the tweeter, one of them will have a cap(if it isn't soldered directly to the tweeter) and then a second cap. Between the caps, a coil should branch off. Forget about the coil unless it looks cooked brown/black.

    There's also a resistor from the second cap back to the terminal cup. Check this bad boy for scorching and read the value to compare(I'm guessing it's 2 ohms).
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited August 2008
    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showpost.php?p=888709&postcount=37
    Now this failure is an extreme one, but it shows what resistor failed. I have come across many resistors that are not visually damaged, but they were bad. Where are you located?
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • AndyGwis
    AndyGwis Posts: 3,655
    edited August 2008
    If they are under warranty, take out the crossover (if it looks damaged) and send it to Polk for repair / replacement. If not under warranty, replacement part should be fairly cheap ($50-$75 maybe).

    I replaced the crossover for some Lsi9s I picked up damaged and they now work great. Same deal, no highs cuz the crossover was dinged up.

    If it's not the crossover, I have no idea.
    Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
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  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited August 2008
    Ben, I can't tell from the pics, but it looks like the resistor cracked wide open.

    If the resistor is blown, I'd expect 0 highs from that tweeter. Every failure is different though.

    I get the impression the tweeter plays normally, just very softly.
  • Captive
    Captive Posts: 18
    edited August 2008
    I finally had time to look at the speaker again, on the crossover
    there is a white box on the bottom that has black all around it and what looks like a crack through it.

    I'm going under the obvious assumption that the black around the resistor is a bad thing....
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited August 2008
    Looks like a smoked/cracked resistor,,, I think that I'd call Polk C S tomorrow morning--good luck.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2008
    And a bad cap.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche