Turntables - what makes the biggest difference?
dkg999
Posts: 5,647
OK, I'm ready to take the turntable plunge! I'm looking at something fairly entry level, and looking at Pro-Ject as both audio dealers I trust and do business with carry that line.
Is it better to go with the Pro-Ject Debut III entry level table and spend money to upgrade to a better Grado cartridge, get the speed box controller, and a better phone pre
-or-
go with the Pro-Ject Expression with the better bearings, platter, and tonearm (and cartridge), the speed box controller, and spend less on a phone pre?
Looking to stay around $1000 for the set up.
What say the Polk Audio experts?
The rest of the system is Rogue Audio 66 Magnum pre, vertically bi-amped Magnepan 1.6QR with Parasound HCA-1500A amps, SVS SB12+ sub.
Is it better to go with the Pro-Ject Debut III entry level table and spend money to upgrade to a better Grado cartridge, get the speed box controller, and a better phone pre
-or-
go with the Pro-Ject Expression with the better bearings, platter, and tonearm (and cartridge), the speed box controller, and spend less on a phone pre?
Looking to stay around $1000 for the set up.
What say the Polk Audio experts?
The rest of the system is Rogue Audio 66 Magnum pre, vertically bi-amped Magnepan 1.6QR with Parasound HCA-1500A amps, SVS SB12+ sub.
DKG999
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED
Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED
Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
Post edited by dkg999 on
Comments
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The most important thing is setup. Isolation is key. I went with the project II, and it is one of the better upgradeable tables out there. You do need the acrylic platter from what I hear, and a new cartridge. Here is a link that another fellow Polkie sent me. I hope it is helpful. To be honest my cheapo Technics was about 95% of my Project III, but I don't have a very high end Phono Pre for now. I should be done with that within the week;) I didn't reaserch the Expression because it was out of my price range.
BenPlease. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
From the options you mention, I would go with the Expression and spend the balance in the best phono pre you can get; I don't think the speed controller will have as big as an impact as a better phono pre._________________________________________________
***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***
2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
SOPAThank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman -
If I was doing it over, instead of buying the Debut like I did, I would get the Expression. Figure you get the Debut for $300, you spend +/- $100 on a cartridge, the acrylic platters another $100, your within $100 of the Expression. You're still stuck with a much lower quality tonearm with very little adjustment ability, not to mention the differences in the plinth and bearings between the two.Wristwatch--->Crisco
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IMNSHO... you need absolute speed stability (i.e., precision) and as low a noise floor as you can get. Isolation you can do 'aftermarket' if need be. You want a very good platter bearing and a well made, "true", dense, uniform, and heavy platter. MDF? Fuggetaboutit. Again IMNSHO.
Absolute speed accuracy actually may be something you could live without, unless you have absolute pitch (a fair number of folks do -- not me) or if it's so far off as to be obvious.
For an arm you need something rigid and stable with minimal play in the bearings and vanishingly small friction.
Dollar for dollar, the Rega family of arms seems tough to beat. They turn up as OEMs on some very expensive turntables. No, I don't have one :-)
FWIW, this is my current vinyl mule.
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There is a fine balance between table quality, tonearm, cartridge, and phono pre. If your table is too cheap, then a better cartridge will be a waste. A good phono pre is a waste on a low end cartridge. A fine table is a waste with a lousey tonearm. Likewise, a bad cartridge or phono pre on a high end table/tonearm will bring the entire setup down.
That said, I think the single biggest variable is the cartridge. I'd spend at least 1/4 of your budget on the cartridge.
For 1K, I would buy a slightly used midrange table/tonearm for around $500 and spend the rest on a cartridge and phono pre, split pretty evenly.
Just make sure to buy the table from a trusted Audiogon seller (or a local listing if available), and only if they have the original packaging if shipping is needed.
Buy the cartridge new, but a used phono pre is usually a safe bet.For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore... -
I just got a Music Hall MMF-5 off Agon. Hooked it up this morning by didn't have time to adjust and/or play anything. I'll let you know how it sounds once I get something spinning.
But, just from build quality, looks, etc. it should be a much better table than my admirably lil MMF-2.1.Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850 -
Cartridge and arm must mate. This is not really black magic; the compliance of the cartridge/cantilever/suspension system must complement the moving mass of the arm so that the resonance of the resulting system is not too high nor too low. The cartridge needs to be appropriately aligned in all three planes and tracked at the 'right' mass for the arm/cartridge system (towards the high end of the cartridge mfgr's 'recommended VTF range' is typically better).
Subjectively, the sound of the cartridge is extremely important and we really cannot offer much advice there ('cept to tell you what we like). I like the Grado sound; although I am using a Clearaudio MM at the moment. YMMV.If your table is too cheap, then a better cartridge will be a waste. A good phono pre is a waste on a low end cartridge. A fine table is a waste with a lousey tonearm.
Finally:
Remember: all generalizations are false... including this one.
:-) -
Match arm and cart (compliance)
Match cart and phono pre (gain/impedance)
Isolate the hell out of the table and properly set it up with a protractor. Make sure VTA is good as well.
I got out of vinyl because my Thorens 125/Rabco SL-8E/Grado Master (4.0mv) to Concerto Plus pre (3-12AX7 w/6X4 regulator, 4 passive EQ settings) wasn't close enough to my CDP in image, soundstage and dynamics. It was still superior in delivering more realisitic HF. That and the lack of new release on vinyl made me take a rest......until I get tons of money and can buy a first class setup.
ET
System: MF Trivista SACD > Placette passive> CJ passive horizontal bi-amp> MF 2500A(LF) MF2100(HF) > 1.2TL's
Other: Speltz silver Eichmann IC's & speaker wire, Econotweaks Detail Magnifiers, PS Audio P-300(source), R. Gray 600, Al Sekala's AC R/C filters, R. Gray HT PC's, Oyaide R-1's,WPC-Z , M-1, Herbie's & DIY Isolation
Room: Qty 7 - 4' tall 18" diam. bass traps, Qty 4 - 4' X 2' X 4" panels. All DIY - man my wife is tolerant! -
There is a fine balance between table quality, tonearm, cartridge, and phono pre. If your table is too cheap, then a better cartridge will be a waste. A good phono pre is a waste on a low end cartridge. A fine table is a waste with a lousey tonearm. Likewise, a bad cartridge or phono pre on a high end table/tonearm will bring the entire setup down.
That said, I think the single biggest variable is the cartridge. I'd spend at least 1/4 of your budget on the cartridge.
For 1K, I would buy a slightly used midrange table/tonearm for around $500 and spend the rest on a cartridge and phono pre, split pretty evenly.
Just make sure to buy the table from a trusted Audiogon seller (or a local listing if available), and only if they have the original packaging if shipping is needed.
Buy the cartridge new, but a used phono pre is usually a safe bet.
While I can agree with all the above posts, I agree with this one from billbillw the most, but Hey, I got lucky with my set up bought 30+ years ago, a tweak here and there, many, many carts later, still the heart of my main rig. The two best carts I've owned sound wise were trade offs of one form or another. I even had the Thorens on a cheap sub in NYC (space limitaions) and not a bass related issue reared it's ugly head once, (levels were at apt friendly levels) those are extreme examples btw. YMMV, get it right, and you'll be very happy, get it wrong and, I can't think of anything more hair pulling worthy. I know. I'll think good thoughts, vinyl is a blessing sound wise, some of my favorite music to show off a system with are $2 finds
CraigThorens TD125MKII, SME3009,Shure V15/ Teac V-8000S, Denon DN-790R cass, Teac 3340 RtR decks, Onix CD2...Sumo Electra Plus pre>SAE A1001 amp>Martin Logan Summit's -
If 1K is your budget, hmmmmm, I'd look at going with buying the most table you can afford. Honestly, at that pricepoint, I'm thinking the Rega P3 is probably a pretty strong contender. If you were looking at 500, sure, I think that Music Hall and Project pretty much rule that pricepoint. At the 1K level, I dunno.....anyway, there are WAY too many variables to say this is more important that that. Vibration is the bane of vinyl playback and there are different schools of thought, suspended tables, mass loaded...etc etc, it just depends on what is right for you.
my .02
BDTI plan for the future. - F1Nut -
Moving up in mass has always been a plus for me, both sonically and for vibration tolerance. Buy the best table you can, or one with an upgrade path. Do not skimp on the phono pre. Your dealer most likely has a trade up policy.
I read posts where Pro-Ject owners claim the speed control helped. Consistent speed with the needle in the groove is the key.
What type of floor is under the room your table will be in? I have the worst, hardwood with a rack that sits on it. In regards to isolation, I am extremely pleased with a used Gingko Cloud 11. I like it much better than the sandbox I tried. (I read some folks are making Gingko knockoffs using MDF and handballs as they are pricey new). A wall mounted shelf for a TT is not an option for me, but it might be for you.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
This forum is (logically) a gearhead haven, but if by "taking the turntable plunge" it means you have no or very few LPs, I think enjoying the stock Pro-Ject Debut III and blowing $500 at record stores, yard sales, Goodwill, etc would get you much more excitement out of your TT.
No matter how nice of a turntable you have, it's useless without the software. As Ben sagely put it above, his "Technics was 95% of the Pro-Ject." Buy records, listen and love.Currently listening to:
Marantz SR5004
Sony BDP-S370
Apple TV V2
Audio Technica AT-LP120
Mirage CMD-5 x 5
Bic H-100 -
$500 at yard sales and thrift stores around here would net you over 1,000 records."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Doug, I'd go with option two. The better platter and bearings (a biggy with TTs) alone make big sonic improvements add in a better tonearm and cartridge and this becomes a no brainer.
Isolation is a big plus too and don't forget the most important thing . . . a REFLEX CLAMP! If the TT doesn't come with one haggle with the salesman to throw one in. -
RutgersFTW wrote: »This forum is (logically) a gearhead haven, but if by "taking the turntable plunge" it means you have no or very few LPs, I think enjoying the stock Pro-Ject Debut III and blowing $500 at record stores, yard sales, Goodwill, etc would get you much more excitement out of your TT.
No matter how nice of a turntable you have, it's useless without the software. As Ben sagely put it above, his "Technics was 95% of the Pro-Ject." Buy records, listen and love.
Software is the disappearing item. However at this juncture they (LPs) are pretty much easy to come by therefore, I would invest in at least a turntable that can do justice to the better software (audiophile grade) that will inevitably purchased down the line.
Plus, the better the hardware, the better even **** or abused LPs sound. -
wait for one to show up here and save your money until that happens
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$500 at yard sales and thrift stores around here would net you over 1,000 records.
I just think the proportions are out of whack when I imagine a beautiful brand new Rega or equivalent with a glass platter and like, 15 records off to the side.
First the music, then the gear. I guess I'll never be an audiophile at this rate.Currently listening to:
Marantz SR5004
Sony BDP-S370
Apple TV V2
Audio Technica AT-LP120
Mirage CMD-5 x 5
Bic H-100 -
Edit to post #16.
The last sentance of the first paragraph should read, "that will inevitably be purchased down the line." -
RutgersFTW wrote: »... which is one of the main reasons I love vinyl so much, but yard sale vinyl requires great diligence. My .10 find of last week (Steely Dan's Aja, unopened!) was come by through five hard milk crates of Time/Life Classics, Disney Sings, Olivia Newton John, and so forth. At my decent record store VG+ LPs run ~ $1.99 for common stuff to $7-20 for classics/sought after/etc (not including the $50+ Audiophile pressings). Though the thrill of the hunt isn't as palpable as in a neighbors front yard, my chance of leaving with two baskets full of records is greatly increased.
I just think the proportions are out of whack when I imagine a beautiful brand new Rega or equivalent with a glass platter and like, 15 records off to the side.
First the music, then the gear. I guess I'll never be an audiophile at this rate.
You are correct in your advice there Bro but once Doug or anyone gets that new TT I guarantee he'll go from 15 LPs to 500 in no time. -
hearingimpared wrote: »Software is the disappearing item. However at this juncture they (LPs) are pretty much easy to come by therefore, I would invest in at least a turntable that can do justice to the better software (audiophile grade) that will inevitably purchased down the line.
Plus, the better the hardware, the better even **** or abused LPs sound.Currently listening to:
Marantz SR5004
Sony BDP-S370
Apple TV V2
Audio Technica AT-LP120
Mirage CMD-5 x 5
Bic H-100 -
hearingimpared wrote: »You are correct in your advice there Bro but once Doug or anyone gets that new TT I guarantee he'll go from 15 LPs to 500 in no time.Currently listening to:
Marantz SR5004
Sony BDP-S370
Apple TV V2
Audio Technica AT-LP120
Mirage CMD-5 x 5
Bic H-100 -
Nothing wrong with a Rega P1 or P2 with a glass platter. NAD also sold some re-badged Rega models, the 533(Rega P1) and the 555(Rega P2). You can usually find them used in the $200-300 range."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Nothing wrong with a Rega P1 or P2 with a glass platter. NAD also sold some re-badged Rega models, the 533(Rega P1) and the 555(Rega P2). You can usually find them used in the $200-300 range.
Just my opinion here, stay away from glass platters unless it is heavily leaded glass. I think acrylic/delrin or acrylic/delrin composite platters are the best. -
Thanks for all the advice, it is much appreciated. I'm going with the Pro-ject Expression, the speed box, and then start looking for a used good quality phono pre. I will be getting a clamp/puck thingy of some sort. I may pick up a few used LP's, but mainly interested in new releases.
At one time I had over 1000 LP's. Never again. I'm going to be pretty selective now.
And of course if I like it, I can upgrade it, right No sense analyzing it to death is thereDKG999
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED
Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC -
Just my .02, the speed controller, I've tried them on two ocaissions via VPI and haven't found them worth the cash. Money can be better spent elsewhere, IMO. An isolated motor, however, is worth it's weight in gold (or oil at this point).
BDTI plan for the future. - F1Nut -
Just my .02, the speed controller, I've tried them on two ocaissions via VPI and haven't found them worth the cash.
BDT
Gotta disagree with you here Bro, my speed controller is worth it's weight in gold, without it the pitch would be so far off that it would be audibly unlistenable. Then again I only paid $200 for the used VPI PLC/Speed Controller. -
hearingimpared wrote: »Gotta disagree with you here Bro, my speed controller is worth it's weight in gold, without it the pitch would be so far off that it would be audibly unlistenable. Then again I only paid $200 for the used VPI PLC/Speed Controller.
If it was that unlistenable, then isn't your turntable vendor using inferior regulated motors/power supplies? I would suspect the speed control is simply for tweakers, as most are within tolerances. The application itself requires better speed control than say my bathroom fan...............HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable
2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable -
The speed box also lets you instantly change between 33 and 45's. It would also be nice if it would do 78's. I do have several hundred 78's from my grand parents on both sides that I am guessing you are not going to find some of that music anywhere else. I'm not sure if you need a different cartridge setup for 78's, but they look to be the same physical size (except much thicker!) as a normal LP. I also have a friend who has several thousand brand new 45's that were originally made for juke boxes. It might be fun to play some of those also. So in addition to the better power regulation (hey, cables do make a difference don't they!), I was also keying on the easy speed switch capabilities.DKG999
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED
Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC -
Dennis Gardner wrote: »If it was that unlistenable, then isn't your turntable vendor using inferior regulated motors/power supplies? I would suspect the speed control is simply for tweakers, as most are within tolerances. The application itself requires better speed control than say my bathroom fan...............
You know when you buy something that you add to your rig and it makes an improvment then you get used to listening to it . . . then you go back to the original configuration and the sonics sound way off? This is what I have experienced with and without the PLC/Pitch Adjustment piece.
VPI makes quality products. It could be that my SAMA motor is getting old and rickity and the pitch needs to be adjusted more but that is besides the point. I think anyone with a turntable whether they are a tweaker or not would benifit sonically from having the pitch set dead on however, I wouldn't pay $1000 for one.
BTWDennis Gardner wrote: »The application itself requires better speed control than say my bathroom fan...............
WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA:D -
I believe the turntable design lends itself to so many tweaks that result in miniscule improvements that the market has become saturated with gadgets that tweak the pocket of the seller/inventor/marketer way more than it improves the sound.
I know from experience that proper setup is almost as much voodoo as science......and my wallet is a thin as an '80s A&M pressing to prove it!!:DHT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable
2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable