Picking a bicycle?

mule

madmax wrote: »

Just wondering, what was the decision process on which size to get? I see they offer about 4 frame sizes.
madmax

Oh yeah, CONGRATS!!!

There are many ways to "skin a cat" when it comes to sizing a bike.

1st pick one that has good standover, meaning stand over the top tube with both feet flat and be sure there is a safe distance between your "junk" and the top tube.

2nd you need good leg extention, sit on the seat and rest your heel on the pedal with the crank arm at 6am, at this point you should have a small bend in your knee. Adjust the seat height accordingly, now you would adjust the fore and aft of the seat in the seat rails, the goal is with the crank arm at 9am your knee joint should be in front of the axle of the pedal, this would be measured with a plumb bob, holding the string on the front of your tibula. With this adjusted properly you will not hyper extend the knee joint and you will not strain the tendons trying to push the crank arm over the top at 12 noon.

3rd is the reach, if you reach to far for the bars you will strain your lower back and also the tendons in your inner elbow joint, but if the bars are to close you will have no power on seated climbs and your diaphram will be to constricted to breathe deeply, so the starting point is to ride comfortably in a straight line and try to look down at the front axle, if the view is blocked by the handlebar you are at a very good starting point, if you see the axle behind the handlebars you are probably reaching to far and if you see the handlebars in front of the axle you need a bigger bike.

4th height of the bars, if you try to pick something up off the floor it is very hard, if you try to pick something up that is at chest height it is very hard, it is easiest to pick something up that is just above knee height. Same idea with handlebar height, to high=no power, to low=no power, start with the handle bar no higher than your adjusted seat height and once you start getting fit lower it a couple inches below level with your seat.

These are good starting points but most seasoned riders find a system that works good for their bodies and dosen't allways follow the norm.

Ricardo

Size? easy decision; I just let the pretty sales girl tell me which was the right size. (20")

Mule mentions some of the things she told me.

Norm Apter

madmax wrote: »

Just curious, do you remember how they determined the size? I'm just into how its done, for example I've already read their manual on how to determine exact seat height. Something about the frame size said you should have 1" between the top bar and your crotch with your feet flat on the ground. I'm guessing that is a good telltale sign the frame is the correct size? On your professionally sized bike where is your crotch, if I may be so bold to ask?
madmax

No worries, we're all gentlemen and gentlewomen here. I have been "professionally" fitted for three mountain bikes (Specialized Hard Rock Sport, Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo and Trek 4300) between 1992 and 2002, respectively, each at a different bike shop and I remember in each case that the crotch to top bar distance was to be 2 inches, not 1. I'm not saying that 1 inch is incorrect; this is just my experience. So, if it were me, I'd probably follow this guideline if I were to purchase a bike again, but in the end its a matter of comfort and thus there is room for personal preference.

As for leg extension while your riding, as long as you get a frame that seems good enough for you, you can always tamper with the seat height as most mountain bikes are equipped with quick release seat posts. In fact, I still tamper from time to time.

I think Mule's more detailed suggestions are solid and worth considering.

Norm Apter

mule wrote: »

If you are having issues with the grips you might want to study up on these...

http://www.ergon-bike.com/us/grips/grip_ergonomics.html

I personally wouldn't use them, but I know many people that love them and if thats all it takes to make you happy on your bike then you are lucky.

I took a nice long bike ride this afternoon on the boardwalk from the Venice Beach area up toward Malibu, alongside the Pacific Coast Highway, before turning around and coming back. It was pretty sweet; nice and sunny but not unbearably hot and lots of interesting sights -- drum circle, two concerts, Santa Monica pier, beach volleyball and people of all shapes and sizes -- on the beach.

One thing that I've had trouble with is grips. After a few years the grips that originally came with the Trek seemed to melt in my hands like old M&Ms. I replaced them with another (cheap) pair last year but after todays ride I noticed that my hands were pretty dirty from these. I'm wondering if you guys have any suggestions for higher-quality grips. Not sure I want something as fancy as the ergonomically-shaped ones mentioned above; just something that's a little more comfortable for long rides and won't make my hands so grimey each time I head out to the bank or the store. I'm probably going to order some gloves soon, as well, but still wanted to switch out these cheap grips.

bikezappa

Norm Apter wrote: »

I'm 6'2, 180 lbs (I think you or someelse mentioned that they are the same size) and my Trek 4300 is 22.5 in. I was professionally fitted at a bike shop before I made my purchase and it has felt right, ever since I bought it 5 years ago.

That sounds like the right size, maybe a little small. Road bikes are usually bigger. There are different methods of measuring bike sizes.

Madmax, I understand that you don't ride much in the past and this is your first bike in a while. My advice is to just get a bike that looks good to you that fits your size from a store that's been around for many years. Ride it for a few years to see if you like bike riding. Then you can buy another bike to suit your personel needs. Right now bike riding to you is in your imagination. You may love it or hate it or be inbetween. Just get a bike you like and ride it and find out if you like it. Most all bikes sold are very good now. The bad French bikes are gone.

mule

Norm, for the gloves your best bet is the "fox incline glove" They are a minimalist glove that will be as cool in the heat as possible and have a nice terry cloth patch on the back of the thumb for wipeing sweat or snot.

As far as grips go, there are some that are made from either silicone or latex, I don't remember, I have no personal experience with them but I have friends that love them. They may be better at resisting the oils in sweat that break down conventional rubber grips, I'll ask around and see what the guys say.

bigaudiofanatic

I have owned a trek for about 5 years now no problems with it. Also my previous bike was a trek and that was just as good the only reason I got rid of that one is because I out grew it.:D Hope this helps

madmax

bikezappa wrote: »

Right now bike riding to you is in your imagination.

Yes, much like someone who is thinking about getting into audio. Tubes or SS, HS or HT, vinyl or digital, subs and book shelf or full range speakers, seperates or integrated etc... Way too many decisions for a novice to make and get right the first time. Great advice!
madmax

Norm Apter

mule wrote: »

Norm, for the gloves your best bet is the "fox incline glove" They are a minimalist glove that will be as cool in the heat as possible and have a nice terry cloth patch on the back of the thumb for wipeing sweat or snot.

As far as grips go, there are some that are made from either silicone or latex, I don't remember, I have no personal experience with them but I have friends that love them. They may be better at resisting the oils in sweat that break down conventional rubber grips, I'll ask around and see what the guys say.

Thanks a lot, Mule. I'll look for the "fox incline glove" you mentioned. And if you do have a chance to ask your friends about those silicone or latex grips, I would greatly appreciate it. It seems that all cheap rubber grips will erode over time. Anyway, please let me know if you find out any more info on those grips.

madmax

Hey guys, I picked up my Trek FX 7.5 today!!!

I stopped by the Trek store last week and they had the red and the silver one. After thinking about them for a week I decided to go today to ride one. I liked it. I had already decided I wanted the silver but today they only had the red so after a little thought I took it. I would have checked around for the silver but the sales girl was cute so what the hell.

I picked up the lightest strongest looking 2' locking cable they had which was called a Kryptoflex 1565, a cool looking mirror that looks like it was made for the bike (screws into the end of the handlebar), a wireless computer which shows speed, odometer, max and average speed and a bunch of other stuff I don't remember. I forget the model but it was $50 and seemed worthwhile. She also sold me a tire repair kit and gave me some lube.

She made a big deal that I needed a tire pump but I didn't get one because the bill was starting to get up there and I was seeing several options including using my air compressor or maybe the little CO2 type fillers. I just wasn't sure what I wanted. I didn't get a helmet either but am thinking maybe I should. The mirror really seemed like a necessity to me and proved so while I was riding this evening. Funny, you really can't hear a lot of cars with the air blowing across your ears.

I rode 5 miles after I got home. I noticed my legs would get a little tired but I would cost for a few seconds and they would be ready to go again. I didn't get winded or anything which is something I was afraid of here in CO being almost a mile high. With the low humidity even at 86 degrees I didn't sweat, just a little face moisture. I found it fairly comfortable riding between 10 to 17 mph on the level with little to no exertion. I'm thinking the tires are a little harsh on bumps and it seems a little shaky over 20mph. Probably just my inexperience.

There is one problem. My body weight against the seat seems to be a bit much against one place. Not sure how to say this other than against where the bone connects. I don't know if maybe the seat should be angled down a bit towards the front? Maybe this is just common for bike seats? After 5 miles today I was thinking a few more miles is all I could take with the seat. I can still feel it still an hour later. I was hoping to be comfortable for at least 20 miles or so.

Thanks for all the help in selecting a good bike! I'm going to have a lot of fun on it.

madmax

mule

Right on! I'm happy for you getting a new bike, kind of makes you feel like a kid on christmas again.

Ok, so heres the deal on co2, if you are in a race and don't have time to pump a tube up it is a big help to have a co2 inflater, however the co2 molecule is smaller than the molecules in our atmosphere so basically the co2 will "bleed out" through the pores of the rubber tube faster than our atmosphere will, causing the tube to go flat again over night. Its a gimmick you don't need.

The saddle, it sounds like yours is actually correct. What you described are called "sit bones" you want you weight on those and not (if I may be so bold) your taint. If you go numb it your "junk" that is not good (obviously) and means you tilt is off, idealy you want the nose of the saddle level, but if you feel numbness or pressure on your taint, tilt the saddle forward, if you feel like you have to push yourself back on the saddle because you are sliding forward then the nose is too low.

As much as I think audiophile types are crazy for changing interconnects and the money spent looking for the elusive "perfect" setup, that is what we do with saddles, shoes, pedals, gloves and all the subtle nuances of our bikes.

(hope the above makes sense, after running electric and drywall in my new ht room, a bottle of ketel one just got wise with me and we got into a little scuffle, tomorrow=bicycle allllll dayyyy!! cross country in the mornin, buildin jumps in the afternoon and bmx track/dirt jumps alll evening wooooooo boston teaparty bit@$es!!!!)

P.S. sorry for the outburst

madmax

OK, I'm pretty sure my tilt is off slightly (but not too far). I just need to pick up some hex keys so I can adjust it and see what happens.
madmax

bikezappa

Madmax

I strongly suggest that you start with the saddle level or parallel to the top tube.

Aa easy way is to put a broom handle on the seat to see if it is parrellel to the top tube.

Adjust to make parellel. Small adjustments are important. You butt will hurt the first 5 times you ride if this doesn't get better get a different saddle. Try a man's saddle called the cut out. You get the idea the taint is located on a cut out in the saddle.


Ride , ride , ride

You will need a pump and spare tube and the tools to change the tube if you get a flat in the middle of now where. That can really suck.

madmax

bikezappa wrote: »

You will need a pump and spare tube and the tools to change the tube if you get a flat in the middle of now where. That can really suck.

So I should actually carry around the pump, an extra tube and tools to remove the tire? How likely is a tire likely to fail? I really don't have a feel for this bike stuff yet. Does the extra weight make any significant difference? I notice people paying top dollar for parts that are slightly lighter. I'm thinking an ipod would be a plus while riding.

bobman1235

The weight in terms of crazy expensive stuff that is only ounces lighter only matters to hardcore riders, not casual ones. Obviously don't carry a bowling ball around but , within reason.

Yes, you should carry at least one extra tube and a pump and a set of tire tools. The most important part of avoiding a flat is usually proper inflation - low or high pressure can cause you a lot of problems. But you'll still blow a flat once in a while. For me it tends to go in waves - it's been ages since I've had a flat, but then I'll go a month where I blow three tubes.

Changing tires sucks, btw.

Oh, and be careful with an iPod riding if you're on city streets - your ears are very useful in keeping you from not being killed by morons on the road.

Ricardo

Congrats; I'm sure you'll love it, as I do.

I don't carry any extra tube or repair stuff....my cellphone will do in case of an emergency.
I bought a rack and a "trunk" bag; I use the bike for last minute grocery shopping; I can fit a lot of stuff in that bag.
I got that same computer' very cool. I use it basically to monitor distance for each ride.

You should get used to the seat after a few rides; if you don't, there are aftermarket options. In my old bike I had one with the cut out and gel, and it is pretty comfortable.

Enjoy!!!

bikezappa

[QUOTE=bobman12Oh, and be careful with an iPod riding if you're on city streets - your ears are very useful in keeping you from not being killed by morons on the road.[/QUOTE]

Agree 100%. Use your ears to locate cars that are to close.

madmax

I angled the seat downward slightly but that didn't help. I raised the seat height which helped slightly. Then I moved the seat a little forward of where it was. That really helped a lot. I guess I was sitting too far forward on the seat.
madmax

bikezappa

Ricardo wrote: »

I don't carry any extra tube or repair stuff....my cellphone will do in case of an emergency.

So after the flat tire and you call somebody to come and pick you up and you need to wait until they get there and interrupt their day.

Then you go out and buy a new tube and tools anyway to fix it!

Buy the tube and pump now and fix it on the road.

madmax

I just picked up a Serfas RX-921L seat. It has the gel and the cutout. I picked it over some slightly larger and much more padded ones because they weighed significantly more. Rode about 3 miles with it when I got home and it is a world of difference. Not only does it give a lot more cushion than the original to help with the butt problem it also gives the bike a more controlled solid sort of ride quality. Its hard to explain but the bike feels much smoother now. I also picked up a Crank Bros air pump, a pressure guage and a seat bag to keep it in. The air pump is extremely light as compared to some of them so I don't mind carrying it around. I guess all I need now are some lights, a water bottle, a tube, some tire tools, a rear rack of some kind, a gps... I love things you can accessorize.
madmax

Libertyc

Hey Max nice bike you have there. I know its nice to support your local shop but check out Nashbar for accessories. They send me a catalog almost every month.

Libertyc

Link:

http://www.nashbar.com/

Libertyc

Also...you should pick up a bike multi tool and carry it your bag (if you have one).
I have a nice rear rack and bought a large "trunk" style bag from Nashbar. It is easy to remove and uses velcro straps to attach to rack.

madmax

I need something I can strap a 6 pack, a pizza or a small bag of groceries onto. It has to weigh almost nothing. I thought about a small backpack but I doubt I would ever have it with me when I needed it.

I don't mind supporting the local shops if I want it quickly and they have it for a reasonable cost. I used to try to do this with hobby shops and audio establishments but they want twice what you can get it on line for and act like they are doing you a favor. The bike shops seem more reasonable from what I can tell. I guess because this is a bike sorta town.
madmax

Libertyc

This will hold a 6 pack or some groceries but don't forget you need a rack.

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=600066&subcategory=60001005&brand=&sku=6801&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20Rack%20Trunk%20Bags

madmax

I'm still debating the backpack vs bike bag. I'm not sure why but I'm thinking something 1/3 that size that would always be with the bike and if additional was needed then you make sure you bring a backpack. I haven't thought out all the scenerios yet.
I just installed a kryptonite 2' lock that looks pretty cool. Truthfully though, I wouldn't mind having it in a bag rather than mounted to the frame. The handlebar bags intrigue me too. I'm really wanting an AM radio with a speaker to mount on the handle bars so I can listen to Glenn Beck and Rush. I bet I could pedal pretty hard without thinking about it when they get started on some of their subjects.

szhleppy

Nice choice in bikes. I've been to that same Trek store... it's only been open for a couple of months. It's also next to Bonefish, which is probably the best restaurant in the nieghborhood.

I'd follow the recommendation of a few others... use the local Trek store for maintenance and repairs on your bike (I'd also strongly recommend getting a custom fit...makes all the difference) and then choose a less expensive commodity store for your other routine stuff (I use Performance because of the perks and continuous sales).

Let's see a picture of your bike with the add-ons...

bikezappa

madmax wrote: »

I'm still debating the backpack vs bike bag. I'm not sure why but I'm thinking something 1/3 that size that would always be with the bike and if additional was needed then you make sure you bring a backpack. I haven't thought out all the scenerios yet.
I just installed a kryptonite 2' lock that looks pretty cool. Truthfully though, I wouldn't mind having it in a bag rather than mounted to the frame. The handlebar bags intrigue me too. I'm really wanting an AM radio with a speaker to mount on the handle bars so I can listen to Glenn Beck and Rush. I bet I could pedal pretty hard without thinking about it when they get started on some of their subjects.

I personaly hate back packs because your back gets very sweaty and it's uncomfortable with you supporting the weight. Consider a bike rack over the rear wheel and let the bike support the weight of what ever you are carrying. With 2 bunggy cords and a rear rack you can carry a lot of crap.

Also get a small bike bag for under the seat to put spare tube, tire irons, small allen wrench set, patch kit for tube, small bag of M&Ms and $20. This way this stuff will be there all the time. You WILL forget this stuff if you use a back pack.

The handlebar bags are nice but they get in the way of you hand position options. Also they may interfere with the cables. Bottom line what do you need to put in the handle bar bag that can't fit into the bag under the saddle?

Try riding without the tunes. They will not make you go faster, trust me I tried. Also it's nice to hear the cars coming up behind you.

madmax

I'd like to have two bags. One always left on the bike with accessories like a pump, tube, tools etc. Stuff I would be willing to take a chance on loosing. The other bag would have stuff I'm not willing to loose like a camera or whatever. It would be a bag I could rip loose in less than 1.386 seconds when I run into the store. Things like a bag of groceries or similar could be bungied onto a rear rack.

treitz3

Chuck, what I used was a quick release rear bag and a smaller handlebar bag to hold the wallet, keys etc. that would not easily come off. I haven't looked online for any lately so I can not provide a link, but the one I had actually served a dual purpose. The first purpose was to hold books and business stuff, the second purpose was to hold in place a custom piece of plastic I made that extended out the back about 3/4 of a foot when it was raining [prevents the mud from "striping" your hind side]. The one I am referring to had two sides to it and they dangled off to the side. This allowed me to use another bag like the one Sal pointed out for on top.

I always put the lock inside the rear bag and had two 3' cables as well so that I didn't have to disassemble the bike for a quick stop into the grocery store. They also come in handy for those times the Kryptonite lock didn't fit around a pole or whatever is available that is stationary.