Bi-ampable CRS+
zingo
Posts: 11,258
Has anyone ever modded their CRS+ (4.1TL) to be bi-ampable? I was looking at the x-over trying to figure out how it would work. This is what I came up with but I could be way off...
Post edited by zingo on
Comments
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HF looks fine, but reversed. LF doesn't appear totally right to me, besides being reversed also.
I did this quick with paint. I would wait on Jesse or someone else who knows more to chime in though."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
For a speaker that size, why bother?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
It's as neat of an idea as making it a 4.1TL in my book. Why not?CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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I'm running an Outlaw 7100 because of my integrated 2 Ch and HT. I figured since I have two extra channels on the amp and not a lot of extra money right now, I could double the power going to the speakers since they are only recieving about 110wpc.
The other point is that I also have a Carver Pm1201 that I could use to power them with about 400wpc, but the SQ is better on the Outlaw, so I figured higher SQ is better than higher power. What do you think?
Plus, they have already been recapped, 4.1TLed, and RDOed, this is the next step, right... -
You may need to do some crossover modifications to adjust the impedances once the HF and LF sections are split.
I recall reading about someone who split the crossover of his 1C's, but I don't remember where I read it.
I have also read posts on splitting the crossovers of other speaker brands on some DIY forums, but I do not recall the specifics of those either.Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country! -
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why not bother? always fun to try new things
As good as the 4.1TL upgrade makes the CRS+'s any further tweaking benefit is going to be limited by the cabinet size, the number of drivers and Raife's point. But, that's just my $.02, so knock yourselves out.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Per DKs prodding, I was searching old posts and someone mentioned a PDF for a bi-amp upgrade but there was no link. So I PMed Ken to see if it's floating around head quarters and I'll let you know what I find out.
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I would be careful, as Raife said, your going to have to adjust the impedances or your going to put the tweeter thru the wall.
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Reported, now get lost!Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Did you check those links out??? WTF???I top you and I are also top-Jin top
Small world... -
Did you check those links out??? WTF???
Small world...
I never click on spam links.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Has anyone ever modded their CRS+ (4.1TL) to be bi-ampable? I was looking at the x-over trying to figure out how it would work. This is what I came up with but I could be way off...
You are right. The inductor has to be between the ground, and the rest of the circuit. I would not bother though. Too much work for really no gain. You would have to play with the levels of the amps, or put a resistor in the signal path of the tweeter.
Don't both dude really. Remember this is coming from a guy who has to tear into nearly everything he gets.
BenPlease. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben