Should I upgrade my subwoofer cables?
Early B.
Posts: 7,900
I'm a firm believer in cable upgrades. Right now I have a two pair of el cheapo RCA cables running from my Reckhorn B-1 bass management system to connect a set of stereo subwoofers. The question is -- do IC upgrades for bass make a difference?
I've upgraded cables for HT subwoofers in the past, and the effect was negligible. Just wondering if it's worth doing in this particular case, espcecially for two channel listening.
Thanks.
I've upgraded cables for HT subwoofers in the past, and the effect was negligible. Just wondering if it's worth doing in this particular case, espcecially for two channel listening.
Thanks.
HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes."
"God grooves with tubes."
Post edited by Early B. on
Comments
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Well, before I upgraded my sub cable, I was using an Acoustics Research cable for it and was having problems with the auto-on functionality working. I bought a new, BetterCables cable and now the auto-on works for the sub, but I have to admit that I personally couldn't tell much of a difference between the two cables in terms of sound quality.
How long of a run do you need for your subs? I have 2 ~20 foot cables (different brands) that I'd be willing to part with for a good price - if you decide to try this out, let me know.
2-channel
Squeezebox Touch| MSB Analog DAC | Audio Research Ref 40 Anniversary Edition| Pass Labs X350.8 | Wilson Audio Sasha 2
Home Theater
Arcam AVR 550 | GoldenEar Triton One | GoldenEar SuperCenter XXL | GoldenEar Aon 3 | JL Audio Fathom F113v2 -
Well, before I upgraded my sub cable, I was using an Acoustics Research cable for it and was having problems with the auto-on functionality working.
E.B.,
What kind of cables are you running from your pre to your amp? Why don't you get another pair of the same cables to keep everything timbre matched?"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
I have both Monster (high end of their lines) and Signal Cables running to my subs. I also have used a couple cheapos in the past. I can't say I tell a difference between any of them, but the Monster and SC definitely have better build quality and look much better, IMO. You can get either kind for cheap, like $15 - $20 a piece online. Worth it for piece of mind and looks, IMO.Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850 -
E.B.,
What kind of cables are you running from your pre to your amp? Why don't you get another pair of the same cables to keep everything timbre matched?
I use DH Labs Air Matrix cables. Used price is about $100 for a 1M pair. I need two pair for the subs. From the feedback here, it sounds like the cost outlay may not be justified.HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes." -
What about upgrades for the subwoofer speaker cables? Got some el cheapos on there, too. Is that the same as the ICs -- hardly any difference in sound quality?HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes." -
What about upgrades for the subwoofer speaker cables? Got some el cheapos on there, too. Is that the same as the ICs -- hardly any difference in sound quality?
Oh... I'm sorry, mis-read your original question. My response above was talking about the subwoofer speaker cables themselves, not the interconnects!
2-channel
Squeezebox Touch| MSB Analog DAC | Audio Research Ref 40 Anniversary Edition| Pass Labs X350.8 | Wilson Audio Sasha 2
Home Theater
Arcam AVR 550 | GoldenEar Triton One | GoldenEar SuperCenter XXL | GoldenEar Aon 3 | JL Audio Fathom F113v2 -
Early, I've heard considerable improvement with the PC's on a sub but I don't recall ever hearing or detecting a change when it came to an IC to the sub [any sub I have had]. SC's? Well, I have yet to find out. The VMPS is the first sub I have had that needed them.
I currently have AQ X2 SC's that made jack for a change on my mains compared to HD/Rat Shack type wire and will be placing the AQ CV-8's in it's place when I am done rewiring my rig. If I notice anything, I'll report back.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
If you are not getting booms from your sub, change your IC's & wire. If you are getting booms, don't.
Keep it simple!:DMarantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2 -
Early, I've heard considerable improvement with the PC's on a sub but I don't recall ever hearing or detecting a change when it came to an IC to the sub [any sub I have had]. SC's? Well, I have yet to find out. The VMPS is the first sub I have had that needed them.
I currently have AQ X2 SC's that made jack for a change on my mains compared to HD/Rat Shack type wire and will be placing the AQ CV-8's in it's place when I am done rewiring my rig. If I notice anything, I'll report back.
Two things:
1. Pardon my ignorance, but PC's?
2. So you didn't notice any difference at all with upgrading speaker cables for your mains? I was considering doing this because I am currently using Radio Shack 12 gauge wire but thought maybe I should try something different...
2-channel
Squeezebox Touch| MSB Analog DAC | Audio Research Ref 40 Anniversary Edition| Pass Labs X350.8 | Wilson Audio Sasha 2
Home Theater
Arcam AVR 550 | GoldenEar Triton One | GoldenEar SuperCenter XXL | GoldenEar Aon 3 | JL Audio Fathom F113v2 -
Back when I had a SVS PB10 I upgraded from crap monster cable to Blue Jeans Cable and received a tremendous improvement.
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dbaldus wrote:1. Pardon my ignorance, but PC's?dbaldus wrote:2. So you didn't notice any difference at all with upgrading speaker cables for your mains? I was considering doing this because I am currently using Radio Shack 12 gauge wire but thought maybe I should try something different...
My rig is completely unplugged at the moment and it takes a good three days for it to get sounding good again, so the results will not be instantaneous. After a few days of listening, I plan to re-install the X2 without unplugging the main rig and see if the sub output changes. That's when I will report back.
As far as the IC's go, I thought more about it and up until two years ago I had been using speaker level inputs utilizing the sub's X-over. When I went to line level, I started off with Monster Cable's M1000i series and a couple of flavors of Monster's lesser IC's. The only other IC's I've tried is Outlaw Audio's PCA pure copper. I'm not saying there's no change, I'm just saying that I have not noticed any, concerning IC's and subs.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Sub cables have a smaller job to do then other cables or analog cables in the system but they have to travel longer distances and are more able to pick up interference. I suggest using a rg59sd built cable for this task. Due to it's limited bandwidth , this cable suits the job well. It has proper shielding . You don't require a 75ohm connection but in my experience I have found no problems or sound quality benefits from using a better cable.
On my personal sub which is a ran cable of 15 feet, I use Audioquest Ita 1.1 custom cable. It's a audio cable designed for analog. it comes on a 50 foot spool and you can make it any length. Rg59sd does not perform better or worse in this situation.
rg59sd is cheap and is the best suited cable for the job.Dan
My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time. -
Well, I just purchased a pair of DH Labs T-14 speaker cables for the subs. These will replace the low budget DIYer cables I have on there now. Gonna see if the T-14's make an audible difference. My hypothesis is that they won't, but I needed longer cables anyway. Stay tuned.HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes." -
Well, I just purchased a pair of DH Labs T-14 speaker cables for the subs. These will replace the low budget DIYer cables I have on there now. Gonna see if the T-14's make an audible difference. My hypothesis is that they won't, but I needed longer cables anyway. Stay tuned.
My hypothesis has been disproven. I added the new DH Labs speaker cables today and there was an improvement in bass definition. It was well worth it, IMO.HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes." -
EB, where have you been? We were talking about DH Labs cable about 3 years ago when Paul D'amico was still around.I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie.
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EB, where have you been? We were talking about DH Labs cable about 3 years ago when Paul D'amico was still around.
What are you talking about? I've been using DH Labs cables for several years.
They are my first choice. The DH Labs Air Matrix ICs beat out the Kimber Heroes a long time ago and I haven't looked back.HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes." -
I have noticed an increase in bass "tightness" and "slam" both from going to a better interconnect from my pre/pro to my amp and from upgrading my speaker wire (16ga. to 10ga. - 6' run) from my amp to my sub.
So yes, even with bass, cables matter. (well they do in my living room anyway)
MichaelMains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms) -
What are you talking about? I've been using DH Labs cables for several years.
They are my first choice. The DH Labs Air Matrix ICs beat out the Kimber Heroes a long time ago and I haven't looked back.
My bad, didn't read the whole thread. carry on, bud.I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie. -
I recently upgraded my subwoofer cable from a Monster to an Audioquest Sub-X cable. In my system I found the bass became much less boomy, I actually turned the volume up some on my sub. It also became quicker or faster or more defined not sure what the proper term is there. With the Monster the bass was very strong but seemed to have a longer decay time. With the Audioquest it hits and gets right out, the difference is noticable to me. I found it worth the 55.00 they wanted for that cable.AVR: Elite VSX-21TXH
Amplifier: B&K 7250 Series ii
Misc: Velodyne SMS-1
Mains: RTi-10
Center: CSi-5
Rear: Boston DSi460
Sub: SVS PC-Ultra
TV: Panasonic TC-P58V10
DVD: Panasonic DMP-BD60K